iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC 2560 Home Button Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 37 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out the home button assembly; if you can't find your way home, at least you can give that button a good click!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Double-check that the plate spins without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause a burn, so keep it moving!
We suggest giving your microwave a good clean before diving in, as any leftover gunk on the bottom might decide to hitch a ride on the iOpener.
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave to get it warmed up and ready to work its magic.
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: be cautious not to crank up the heat on your iOpener too much during the repair. Too hot, and it might just pop! Keep it below 100˚C (212˚F) for safety.
If the iOpener looks like it's been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, steer clear of it!
If the middle of the iOpener is still too toasty to handle, no worries! Keep using it while waiting for it to cool down a bit before giving it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for around 10 minutes.
Microwaves vary in power, so your heating time might need a little tweak. The iOpener is ready when it’s just a tad too hot to handle comfortably.
- Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.
- As you work through the repair, if the iOpener starts to cool down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things heated up.
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Step 3
Careful now! The iOpener is going to be super toasty, so handle with care. Grab an oven mitt if you need a little extra protection!
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by one of the two flat ends so you steer clear of the hot middle part.
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the little tabs at the ends. Safety first!
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener by placing it in boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
- Crank up the heat and let that water come to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat. You're doing great!
- Carefully drop the iOpener into the warm water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it's fully immersed and enjoying its spa day.
- Using some tongs (safety first!), lift the hot iOpener out of the water.
- Give the iOpener a good towel dry. We want it ready to roll!
- And voila! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little pick-me-up later, just repeat the water-boiling process and let it soak again for a couple of minutes.
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Step 5
Sport some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any oops moments.
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check while also giving your display a sturdy boost when you're prying and lifting it up.
- If the display glass is cracked, keep those shards in check and avoid any ouchies by taping over the glass before you start.
- Cover the entire iPad screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape so everything stays put.
- Follow the rest of the guide as carefully as you can. Just a heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go, and you might need to gently scoop out the glass pieces with a metal prying tool.
Step 6
Heads up! Since you'll be handling some broken glass here, it's a smart move to pop on your safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from giving you a surprise. Stay safe and steady!
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing it down so it makes good contact with the surface.
- Let the iOpener chill there for about 90 seconds to do its magic before you try to open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that opening tool wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Stay cool, wiggle the tool gently back and forth, and take your time—patience is key!
- Hey there! Spot that tiny gap in the iPad's adhesive ring at the upper right corner? It's about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Time to take advantage of this little flaw!
- Now, align your trusty tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip—just enough to create a little wiggle room.
Step 8
- Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass—right in that sweet spot!
Step 9
- Gently wedge the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and the plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 10
- Gently pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch—like you’re sneaking it in for a secret mission.
Step 11
- As you carefully loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad, go ahead and reheat the iOpener, then place it back along the bottom edge to keep things warm and ready.
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Step 12
This adhesive is seriously tough stuff—get ready to flex some muscle, but take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of that nifty opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, just give it a gentle tug. Don’t worry, using the pick this deep won’t cause any harm, but it might leave some sticky adhesive crumbs on the LCD. Keep it cool and carry on!
- As you warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, let's kick things off by loosening that sticky adhesive along the right edge of your iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, working that adhesive loose as you go. You've got this!
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Step 13
You might want to slide that warm iOpener back to the right edge of the iPad as you peel away the adhesive. This little dance depends on how long your iPad has been cooling down while you’ve been hard at work.
- If your opening pick is feeling a bit sticky with that adhesive, just give it a little 'roll' along the edge of the iPad to keep peeling that sticky stuff away.
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Step 14
- Before you pull out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that stubborn adhesive from sticking back together.
- Give your iOpener another quick heat-up, then move it over to the top edge of the iPad to warm things up there.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna hangs out at the bottom right corner of the iPad's rear case, secured by screws and a cable. Since the antenna's position is a little tricky, take your time and handle it gently to avoid any permanent hiccups with the Wi-Fi signal. You've got this!
- Alright, things are about to get a little tricky, so stay sharp!
- You're going to need to carefully detach the antenna from the front panel. The goal here is to avoid any damage to the fragile bits connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Go through these next steps with extra care, and you'll be fine!
Step 16
Be careful not to slide the pick past the bottom right corner—it could mess with your Wi-Fi antenna. We know, no one wants that! Keep it gentle and precise.
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad, carefully releasing the adhesive there. Easy does it!
Step 17
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna.
Take it easy as you move the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is super close to the corner, and you don't want to accidentally snip it. Be gentle with the adhesive, and you'll be golden!
Don't yank the pick all the way out from under the front glass—just gently pull it enough so about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays tucked under the glass. This will give you just the right amount of leverage without losing your spot!
Step 18
- After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide the opening pick all the way back in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and cabled to the bottom of the iPad. This step disconnects it from the front panel to keep it safe when you lift the panel off.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener's heating session to just a minute, and give it a cool down of at least two minutes before you heat it up again. We want to keep things safe and sound for your device!
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much along the bottom edge, give that iOpener a quick reheat to warm things up where you're working your magic.
- Keep on peeling that adhesive from the bottom of the iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out far enough to navigate around the home button, then pop it back in to about half an inch (10 mm) deep once you’re past that home button. You've got this!
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, slide your pick in no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) here to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Keep peeling that adhesive strip along the entire bottom edge of your iPad—almost there!
- Slip the opening pick under the front glass by the home button and let it hang out there for now.
Step 21
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick reheat, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help warm up the adhesive in that area, making your repair a breeze!
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled too much, just pop the iOpener back along the top edge and keep going. If it's gone a bit cold, give it another round of heat and get back to work!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, giving it a little nudge to work around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is pretty strong, so you might need to put in a bit of muscle. Take your time, stay steady, and keep things safe for both you and your iPad.
- If the pick gets caught in the adhesive, try gently 'rolling' it as shown in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and warm, feel free to remove the iOpener from the iPad for easier handling. But if the sticky stuff is still holding strong, just reheat the iOpener and lay it along the left edge while you continue your work. Keep it chill, but keep going!
- Peel off the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, then gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is hanging out just about 2" (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom, stop sliding the pick. That's when you know you’re in the right zone! Keep it steady and you're on the right track.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad. You'll be releasing that sticky adhesive as you go. Just a heads-up: the adhesive is thinner here thanks to the digitizer running along the whole left side. Keep the pick shallow—about 10mm deep, or half an inch max—to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.
Step 25
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: the bottom end of that digitizer cable is hanging out just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. So take your time and be gentle, so we don’t accidentally cut this little guy!
- With the opening pick still tucked underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, gently slide it to peel away the adhesive from the bottom left corner.
Step 26
Sometimes, the adhesive around the iPad's edge might decide to stick back down. If that happens, carefully slide a pick under the edge of the front glass where it’s still holding on, and gently ‘cut’ through the adhesive to free it.
- Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Then, give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady!
Step 27
Watch out for any leftover adhesive that might still be clinging on! Use your opening pick to carefully slice through any stubborn bits holding the front panel in place.
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently rotate the front glass away from the device. Think of it like turning the pages of a good book—slow and steady.
- When putting everything back together, be sure to grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air. Wipe away any dust or fingerprints from the LCD before reattaching the glass. It’s the little things that make a big difference!
Step 28
- Unscrew those four 2.0 mm Phillips screws holding the LCD in place on the rear case. You've got this!
Step 29
Be gentle with the LCD while you handle it! Don’t try to take it off the iPad just yet—its display data cable will still be attached, even when you flip it over.
The front panel ribbon cables are tucked underneath the LCD. To get to them, you'll need to gently flip the LCD over and move it out of the way for a better view.
- Carefully lift the LCD by its long edge near the volume buttons and gently flip it out from the rear case—kind of like turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on the front panel to keep it safe while you work.
Step 30
Make sure you’re lifting the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves—handle with care!
In the second picture, the retaining flaps are marked in red to help you spot them easily.
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets and flip them up with care.
Step 31
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable to lift it off the shields on the logic board.
- Slowly peel the digitizer cable away from the adhesive holding it to the side of the rear case, taking care not to pull too hard.
Step 32
- Gently wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable out of its sockets on the logic board, making sure to pull it straight to avoid any twists or bends.
Step 33
Handle the LCD with care, and remember, no need to detach it from the iPad—its cable is still hanging out while you give it a gentle twist.
To liberate the front panel assembly, gently coax the ribbon cable out from its snug spot between the case and the LCD. You'll need to shift the LCD a bit to create a little breathing room for this process.
- Carefully lift the LCD from its long edge that's farthest from the digitizer cable and gently fold it back toward the rear case—think of it like closing a book.
- While keeping the LCD held up, slowly slide the front panel away from the iPad. Watch out so you don’t catch the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.
- Place the LCD back into the device body for safe keeping.
Step 34
Keep an eye on your iOpener temperature – you don’t want to overdo it! After each heat session, take a breather and give it a good three minutes before warming it up again.
The home button assembly is stuck to the front panel with some adhesive. Gently warming it up with an iOpener to loosen the glue is a smart move.
- Pop that iOpener into the microwave and give it a warm hug for thirty seconds on high power. It's like a spa day for your repair tool!
- Now, gently place the cozy iOpener right over the home button at the front edge of your display. It’s time to get to work!
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Step 35
- Carefully slide the plastic opening tool under the right edge of the home button assembly and gently lift it up to break free the adhesive holding it in place.
Step 36
- With a little finesse, peel back the adhesive on the left side of the home button.
- Gently lift the home button mount away from the front panel.
Step 37
- Carefully slide the edge of your plastic opening tool under the home button mounting bracket.
- Gently glide the tool along the retaining spring bracket to free up the adhesive holding it in place.
- Lift out the home button along with its mounting bracket from the front panel.
