iPad 2 CDMA Bluetooth/Wi-Fi Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 47 Steps
Get ready to tackle the replacement of your Bluetooth/Wi-Fi Antenna! Keep in mind that this guide features a Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different from your cellular version. But don’t worry, the steps are pretty much the same, with just a few exceptions noted along the way. Let's dive in and get your device back in action!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: double-check that the plate spins without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause burns, so keep it moving!
Before you get started, it’s a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean—any leftover gunk lurking at the bottom might hitch a ride on the iOpener, and that’s a mess nobody wants.
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up!
Tools Used
Step 2
Hey there, just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on your iOpener during the repair. We don’t want it getting too hot and bursting on you! Aim to keep the temperature below 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks like it's been working out and appears swollen, steer clear of it.
If the center of your iOpener is still too hot to handle, don’t sweat it! Just keep using it and let it cool down a bit before you heat it up again. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
Depending on your microwave's wattage, you might need to adjust the time a bit. You'll know your iOpener is ready when it's just about too hot to handle. Keep it cool, and let's get to work!
- Pop the iOpener into the microwave for 30 seconds to get it nice and toasty.
- As you work through the repair, keep an eye on that iOpener. If it starts to cool down, just zap it in the microwave for another 30 seconds to keep things rolling smoothly.
Tools Used
Step 3
The iOpener's gonna be hot, so handle it with care! If you're worried, grab an oven mitt for extra protection.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends so you don’t accidentally touch the hot center. Stay safe and keep it cool!
Tools Used
Step 4
The iOpener can get pretty hot, so be sure to grab it by the end tabs only. Safety first!
No microwave? No problem! Just heat up your iOpener by letting it hang out in some boiling water.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring that water to a boil, then turn off the heat. You're almost there!
- Drop the iOpener into the hot water and let it chill for 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it's fully submerged.
- Use tongs to carefully pull the iOpener out of the water—don't burn yourself!
- Give the iOpener a good drying with a towel so it's nice and ready to go.
- All set! When it's time to reheat the iOpener, just repeat: bring the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener soak for 2-3 minutes again.
Tools Used
Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and handle that LCD screen gently to avoid any oops moments.
This trick keeps those sneaky glass shards from escaping and gives your display some solid backup while you pry and lift.
- If your display glass is cracked, keep those shards in check and protect yourself while working by taping over the glass.
- Cover the entire iPad display with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until it's fully wrapped up.
- Follow the rest of the guide as best you can. Just a heads-up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go, and you may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift out the glass pieces.
Step 6
Just a heads up, working with broken glass can get a bit messy. To keep those eyes safe from any sneaky shards flying your way, we highly recommend rocking a pair of safety glasses.
- Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it’s smooth and snug for optimal heat transfer.
- Allow the iOpener to chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before diving in to open that front panel.
Tools Used
Step 7
It might take a little elbow grease to slide the opening tool’s tip between the glass and plastic. Take your time, and gently wiggle the tool back and forth to ease it in. Patience is key here – no rush!
- Notice that there's a tiny little gap in the adhesive ring at the top right corner of the iPad, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let’s take advantage of that little flaw, shall we?
- Position your tool so it aligns with the mute button. Carefully slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip, just enough to gently widen that crack!
Step 8
- Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass—think of it as finding the perfect spot to start your magic!
Step 9
- Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right into the gap next to it. Easy does it!
Step 10
- Take the plastic opening tool off the iPad and carefully slide the opening pick underneath the front glass. Keep it steady and aim to go about 0.5 inches deep—slow and steady wins the race!
Step 11
- As you carefully loosen the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, pop the iOpener back into the microwave for a quick reheat, then place it on the bottom edge to keep things nice and warm.
Tools Used
Step 12
This adhesive is seriously stubborn, so you might need to bring out your inner superhero. Take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of your opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it back just a smidge. Going this deep with the pick won’t cause damage, but it might leave some sticky adhesive spots on the LCD.
- While the bottom edge is soaking up some warmth from the iOpener, let's get that adhesive on the right edge of the iPad to loosen up.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, as you work to free the adhesive. Keep it smooth and steady!
Tools Used
Step 13
Depending on how long the iPad has had to cool down while you work, you might need to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge to keep that adhesive nice and soft as you peel it away.
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that stubborn glue.
Tools Used
Step 14
- Before pulling out the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the glass to keep the adhesive from snapping back together.
- Warm up the iOpener again, then shift it to the top edge of the iPad and get ready for the next move.
Tools Used
Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly attached to the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Since the antenna is positioned just so, it's super important to handle this step carefully—otherwise, you might accidentally cause some serious damage to the antenna. Let's keep it safe and sound!
- Alright, time to get a little careful here. You're about to release the adhesive holding the antenna in place, so take your time with this step.
- Make sure not to damage any of the fragile parts connected to the bottom of the iPad while you're at it. We know it sounds tricky, but just follow the steps closely, and you'll be good to go!
Step 16
Keep the pick from sliding past the bottom right corner—going further might mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we don’t want that!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, easing away that stubborn adhesive. Patience is key here!
Step 17
Carefully slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Watch out—the Wi-Fi antenna hangs out right near the corner and can get nicked if the adhesive lets go too quickly.
Keep that pick tucked under the front glass just a smidge! You only need about ~1/8" (3 mm) of the tip peeking out. You're doing great!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free the adhesive near the Wi-Fi antenna. Nice and easy, you’ve got this!
Step 18
- After you've passed the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right beside the home button—slide that opening pick all the way back in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to peel away the adhesive that’s holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is secured at the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step carefully frees the antenna from the front panel so it stays safe when you lift the panel off.
Step 19
Give your iOpener a break! Heat it for just a minute at a time, then let it chill for at least two minutes before you heat it up again. Play it cool and keep your repairs smooth!
If the adhesive has cooled down too much along the bottom edge, give your iOpener a quick reheat to warm things up where you're working. Keep it cozy!
- Keep gently peeling away the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad. Once the opening pick is far enough to clear the home button, slide it around and insert it about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep. You’ve got this—just a little more and you're in the clear!
Tools Used
Step 20
Heads up! When working on iPad 4 models, slide the pick in no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) here to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Keep sliding that adhesive remover tool along the entire bottom edge of the iPad to free it up.
- Leave the opening pick hanging out just under the front glass near the home button to keep things ready for the next step.
Step 21
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick heat-up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help get that adhesive nice and toasty in that area.
Tools Used
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much, just swap in a fresh iOpener along the top edge and keep on going! And if your iOpener isn't feeling warm enough, give it a little reheat love.
- Gently slide that opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- This section has some seriously strong adhesive, so you might need to apply a bit of elbow grease. Take it slow and steady, and be careful not to slip and hurt yourself or your iPad.
- If your opening pick feels like it's stuck in the sticky stuff, try giving it a little 'roll' as shown in step 9.
Tools Used
Step 23
If the adhesive feels nice and warm, take the iOpener off the iPad for a smoother experience. But if the sticky stuff is still holding on tight, just heat the iOpener up again and place it on the left edge while you continue working.
- Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 24
Hey there! The digitizer cable is hanging out around 2" (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Just a heads up, stop sliding that pick when you get about 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom—it's like a secret marker for where to pause!
- Gently slide your trusty opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, letting it release that pesky adhesive as you go. It's a bit thinner here thanks to the digitizer running along the whole left side. Just a friendly reminder: keep that pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.
Step 25
Heads up! The bottom edge of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and steady to avoid slicing through this little guy.
- Slide the opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to gently loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.
Step 26
It looks like some of the adhesive around the edges of the iPad might have resealed itself. No worries! Gently slide a pick underneath the spot where the front glass is still sticking, and carefully work your way through the adhesive. You'll have this thing open in no time!
- Grab your trusty opening pick and gently lift up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Now, give it a little tug with your fingers to get things moving!
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky stuff still hanging around! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any leftover adhesive that's keeping the front panel in place.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners. Gently twist the front glass away from the device, as if you're giving it a little nudge.
- When you're putting things back together, use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to give that LCD screen a nice, clean sweep—no dust or fingerprints allowed before you reinstall the glass!
Step 28
- Unscrew the four tiny 2.0 mm Phillips #0 screws holding the LCD to the back case. Keep them safe!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care, and remember, it’s not going anywhere! Keep it connected while you gently rotate it over. You've got this!
- The front panel ribbon cables hang out just beneath the LCD. To get to them, you’ll need to carefully flip the LCD over and move it aside for a bit.
- Grab the LCD by its long edge near the volume buttons and gently flip it back, just like turning a page in a book.
- Place the LCD face down on the front panel and you’re all set to access those cables.
Step 30
Remember to gently lift those hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves! You've got this!
Check out the second image to spot the retaining flaps—they’re marked in a bold red to make them easy to find!
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets and flip them up with care.
Step 31
- Gently slide the edge of your plastic opening tool under the digitizer cable, lifting it off the shields on the logic board like you're peeling off a sticker from a fresh notebook.
- Slowly and carefully lift the digitizer cable from the adhesive holding it to the side of the rear case, as if you're unwrapping a gift—just a little extra care so it comes off smoothly!
Step 32
- Gently tug the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its two snug sockets on the logic board. You've got this!
Step 33
Handle the LCD with care, and remember—it's not going anywhere! Keep its cable connected while you gently rotate it over.
To detach the front panel assembly, you'll need to gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. Just give the LCD a little nudge to create some space, and you'll be on your way!
- Carefully lift the LCD from the edge that's farthest from the digitizer cable and gently fold it back like you're closing a book.
- While keeping the LCD elevated, cautiously slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just watch out for that digitizer cable—let's not get it tangled up with the rear case or LCD.
- Place the LCD back into the body for safekeeping until you're ready to continue.
Step 34
To get inside the iPad, we’ll gently flip the LCD screen out of its case—let’s carefully open it up and get to work!
- Gently lift the LCD from the edge closest to the volume buttons and flip it out of the rear case—think of it like turning a page in your favorite book.
- Carefully place the LCD face down on a clean surface. A soft cloth underneath is a great idea to keep it scratch-free.
Step 35
Remember, when you're disconnecting that connector, give it a gentle wiggle instead of pulling it straight up!
- Gently place the LCD next to the rear panel, just like a friendly neighbor.
- Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully lift the display data cable lock upwards. It’s like unlocking a door, but for your phone!
- Now, pull the display data cable out of its socket, as smoothly as you can. Like sliding out a drawer that’s never been stuck!
Step 36
- Gently lift the LCD assembly away from the rear panel assembly to separate the two parts.
Step 37
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently lift the tape that’s covering the dock connector cable. It's like peeling back a sticker, but more satisfying.
- Take the edge of the plastic opening tool and carefully work it under the dock connector cable's connector. Give it a little nudge to lift it from its spot on the logic board. Nice and easy.
- Now, peel that dock connector ribbon cable off the rear panel. Just a gentle tug, and it should come right off.
Step 38
- Gently lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket on the logic board, like you’re coaxing a shy little friend out of hiding.
Step 39
- Unscrew the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws holding the logic board bracket in place near the digitizer cable socket. Easy, right?
- Now gently lift off the logic board bracket from the rear case. It's all about that smooth separation.
Step 40
Be careful not to pull the cable straight up as you disconnect it. Keep it steady and gentle!
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retainer to pop it up and free the control board cable connector from its logic board socket.
- Carefully pull the connector straight out from its socket on the logic board.
Step 41
- Unscrew those four 2.6 mm Phillips screws that are holding the logic and communications boards snugly against the rear panel. You've got this!
Step 42
Be careful not to lift the logic board too high off the back case! It's still connected to some antennas, and we don't want to accidentally give them a surprise party.
- Grab a plastic opening tool and carefully slide it under the logic board. Give it a gentle lift to separate it from the adhesive holding it in place. Take your time – patience is key here!
Step 43
- Gently raise the top of the logic board and disconnect those two antennas hanging out on the left.
- Swing the logic board towards the center of the iPad and unplug the last antenna chilling at the top.
- Unplug the Wi-Fi antenna at the bottom of the logic board, and you're one step closer!
Step 44
- Carefully lift out the logic board from your iPad 2. Take your time – we don't want any surprises here.
Step 45
- Gently shift the dock connector and speaker cables aside, then carefully peel the Bluetooth/Wi-Fi antenna cable off the sticky adhesive holding it to the back case. Keep it chill and steady!
Step 46
- Let's get these screws out of the way so we can free the bluetooth/wi-fi antenna from the rear panel:
- Two 1.7 mm Phillips screws
- Two 2 mm Phillips screws
Step 47
- Gently peel the Bluetooth/Wi-Fi antenna away from the speaker enclosure and take it out of the iPad 2.
