iPad 2 GSM GPS Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 73 Steps
Ready to replace the GPS antenna sticker in your second generation iPad GSM? It's hiding under the right cellular antenna assembly. Just a heads up, some shots in this guide were taken with a Wi-Fi model, so the internals might look a little different from your cellular version. Don't worry though, the process is the same for both models, except where we’ve pointed out any differences.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins smoothly. If your iOpener gets stuck, it could overheat and cause damage. Keep it spinning to keep it happy!
Before you dive in, give that microwave a little TLC! A quick clean will help prevent any unwanted gunk from sticking to the iOpener. Trust us, your future self will thank you!
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 2
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair adventure. Overheating it could lead to a dramatic burst! Let’s keep it under 100˚C (212˚F), shall we?
If the iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is all swollen, give it a pass. Safety first!
Still feeling the heat? No worries! Keep using it until it cools down a bit before you reheat. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for up to 10 minutes.
Microwave wattages vary, so adjust the time accordingly. Your iOpener is ready when it’s just a tad too warm to keep your fingers on it comfortably.
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick thirty-second warm-up! It's like giving it a cozy hug.
- As you work through your repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty by reheating it for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 3
The iOpener can get pretty toasty, so handle with care! If it feels too hot to hold, grab an oven mitt for some extra protection.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of its flat ends—steer clear of the hot middle to keep those fingers happy.
Tools Used
Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers happy.
If a microwave isn't in your kitchen arsenal, no worries! Just follow this step to warm up your iOpener using boiling water.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to let your iOpener take a nice dip.
- Get that water bubbling like it's a hot spring, then turn off the heat.
- Carefully drop the iOpener into the steamy bath for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it's fully enjoying the soak!
- Using tongs, fish out the warm iOpener from its cozy water spa.
- Give the iOpener a good towel dry—nobody likes a soggy tool!
- And just like that, your iOpener is all set to go! If it needs another round of warmth, just repeat the boiling and soaking process for 2-3 minutes.
Tools Used
Step 5
- Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and pop out the SIM card tray with a quick poke.
Step 6
- Gently slide the SIM tray out of its slot and take it out of your iPad 2.
- If you're swapping the SIM card, pop the old one out of the tray and slide the new one in.
Step 7
Put on your safety glasses to keep those peepers protected, and watch out for that delicate LCD screen—it's more fragile than it looks!
This will help keep those glass shards in check and ensure the display stays sturdy when you're prying and lifting it up.
- If your display glass is looking a bit worse for wear, let’s keep those shards in check and avoid any oopsies during your repair adventure by taping it up.
- Grab some clear packing tape and lay down overlapping strips over the iPad's screen until it's completely covered. You're basically giving it a cozy tape blanket!
- Now, follow along with the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up: once the glass starts cracking, it might want to keep on splitting as you go. You may need to grab a metal prying tool to help scoop out those glass pieces. And remember, if it gets tricky, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 8
Heads up! You’ll likely be dealing with some broken glass here, so don’t forget to rock your safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from flying into your eyes.
- Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s nice and snug so the heat can do its magic.
- Give it about 90 seconds to warm up the adhesive before you dive in and pop that front panel open.
Tools Used
Step 9
Getting the opening tool tip wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Take your time, stay patient, and gently wiggle that plastic tool back and forth to make some progress.
- Hey there! Looks like there's a tiny gap in the adhesive ring of your iPad, right up in the upper right corner—about 2.0 inches (or 5 cm) from the top. Let's take advantage of this little opening!
- Now, align your trusty tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there—enough to give that crack a little nudge!
Step 10
- Be sure to slide that tool right into the sweet spot—between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass!
Step 11
- With the plastic opening tool snugly placed between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the tiny gap right beside that trusty tool. You're on the right track!
Step 12
- Gently slide the plastic opening tool away from the iPad, then carefully work the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. You've got this!
Step 13
- As you work on peeling away the adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give that iOpener another warm-up and place it back on the bottom edge of the device.
Tools Used
Step 14
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in some elbow grease. Just take your time and be gentle with it!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking under the front glass, pull it out just a tiny bit. Don't worry, using the pick this deep won't harm anything, but it might get some adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a little heads-up!
- As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start easing the adhesive loose from the right side of your iPad.
- Gently slide your opening pick down along the edge, peeling away the adhesive bit by bit.
Tools Used
Step 15
If the adhesive is being stubborn, you might need to reposition your heated iOpener to the right edge of your iPad as you peel away the adhesive. This will depend on how much time the iPad has had to cool down while you were working on it.
- If the opening pick sticks to the adhesive, just gently roll it along the side of the iPad to continue loosening the adhesive. Keep it steady, and it’ll release without a hitch.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Before you pop the first opening pick into that bottom corner of the iPad, slip a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to prevent the adhesive from sticking back where it doesn’t belong.
- Give the iOpener another heat-up, then move it to the top edge of the iPad.
Tools Used
Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right corner of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Given its positioning, it's super important to handle it with care to avoid any mishaps that could lead to permanent damage. Let's keep that antenna happy and healthy!
- Heads up! The next steps call for some serious care and steady hands.
- You’ll need to carefully loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without harming the fragile parts connecting it to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow each step closely.
Step 18
Careful not to slide the pick past the bottom right corner — you don’t want to mess up the Wi-Fi antenna!
- Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up that sticky adhesive. You're doing great!
Step 19
Take it easy while moving the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna's tucked pretty close to the corner, and it can get easily damaged if the adhesive isn't handled just right. Go slow here to avoid a mishap!
Keep that pick snug under the front glass—just a smidge! Pull it out so about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip is still cozy underneath. You're doing great!
- Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic to release the sticky stuff over the Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 20
- After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna area (about 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide the opening pick all the way in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to break the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable to the bottom of the iPad. This step frees it from the front panel so you don’t accidentally damage it when removing the panel.
Step 21
Keep the iOpener heating sessions under a minute, and give it a chill-out break of at least two minutes before warming it up again.
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has cooled down too much, give the iOpener another quick heat-up to soften the glue right where you're working.
- Keep working that adhesive loose along the bottom edge of your iPad! Gently pull the opening pick out enough to maneuver around the home button, and then slide it back in just to about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep once you’ve passed the home button. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 22
When working on iPad 4 models, slide your pick in no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) here to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Peel off the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad, taking it nice and slow.
- Keep the opening pick in place underneath the front glass, right near the home button, to make sure everything stays in position.
Step 23
- Pop that iOpener in the microwave to heat it up, then gently place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help warm up the adhesive in that section and get things moving.
Tools Used
Step 24
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, simply place the iOpener along the top edge and give it another go. If it's too cool to work with, just reheat it and keep moving forward!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive here is pretty hefty, so you might need to exert some muscle. Take it slow and steady—no need to rush and risk a mishap with your iPad or yourself!
- If the opening pick starts to feel a bit stuck in the adhesive, try giving it a little 'roll' as demonstrated in step 9.
Tools Used
Step 25
If the adhesive feels nicely warmed up, go ahead and set the iOpener aside for now. But if it’s still holding on tight, give the iOpener another quick heat-up and rest it on the left edge while you keep working.
- Keep peeling away that adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 26
The digitizer cable is chilling about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick once you're around 2.25 inches (60 mm) down. Easy does it!
- Carefully slide the opening pick along the iPad’s left edge to loosen the adhesive bit by bit. The adhesive here is pretty thin because the digitizer runs along this entire side. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental digitizer damage.
Step 27
The digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and steady here, making sure to avoid cutting this cable. Patience is key!
- Gently slide the opening pick that's still nestled under the iPad's bottom edge and ease the adhesive away from the bottom left corner. Take your time—it's a small step that makes a big difference.
Step 28
Some of the adhesive around the edge of your iPad might have decided to make friends with the surface again. If that’s the case, slide a pick under the edge where the front glass is still holding on and gently 'slice' through the adhesive to help it let go.
- Grab one of your trusty opening picks and gently wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and snag it with your fingers.
Step 29
Watch out for any leftover adhesive still clinging on. Use an opening pick to gently slice through any adhesive holding the front panel in place. Take your time – this part can get a little sticky, but you’ve got this!
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, then gently rotate the front glass away from the device.
- When putting things back together, take a moment to wipe down the LCD with a microfiber cloth and use some compressed air to blow off any dust or fingerprints. This will help keep the screen nice and clean before you reinstall the glass.
Step 30
- The LCD is still hanging around.
- When you’re reinstalling that LCD into a new device, don't forget the foam around it! This foam acts like a cushion, creating space between the digitizer and the LCD. It helps prevent those annoying 'ghost' touches where your screen thinks you're tapping but you’re not. A small step, but it makes a big difference!
Step 31
Make sure you’re lifting the hinged retaining flaps gently—not the sockets themselves!
Check out the second picture where the retaining flaps are marked in a cheerful red. They're your key players in this repair adventure!
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets and flip them up with care.
Step 32
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently work the edge under the digitizer cable, lifting it away from the shields on the logic board. You're doing great!
- Now, with a steady hand, carefully detach the digitizer cable from the adhesive that's holding it to the side of the rear case. You're almost there!
Step 33
- Gently pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from both of its sockets on the logic board.
Step 34
Handle the LCD with care—don't try to yank it off! Its cable stays connected while you gently swing it aside.
To get the front panel assembly out, gently slide the ribbon cable out from between the case and the LCD. You'll want to shift the LCD a bit to create some wiggle room.
- Gently lift the LCD from its long edge that's furthest from the digitizer cable and flip it toward the back case—think of it like you're closing a book!
- While keeping that LCD up, smoothly slide the front panel away from the iPad. Just be careful not to let the digitizer cable get caught on the rear case or the LCD.
- Once you're done, place the LCD back into the body for safekeeping.
Step 35
To get inside the iPad, gently flip the LCD screen out of the case so we can access the internal parts.
- Gently lift the LCD from the edge nearest the volume buttons and carefully flip it out of the rear case—kind of like flipping through the pages of a book.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean surface. To keep it scratch-free, you might want to set it on a soft cloth.
Step 36
Don’t yank the connector straight up when unplugging it—gentle wiggles win the day!
- Gently position the LCD next to the rear panel, like they're best buddies catching up.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and give that display data cable lock a little nudge upwards—it's time to set it free!
- Now, with a smooth pull, ease the display data cable out of its cozy socket. You've got this!
Step 37
- Gently detach the LCD assembly from the rear panel. Take your time, it’s like peeling a sticker—smooth and steady.
Step 38
Make sure you're gently prying up on the hinged retaining flap—give that little guy some love—rather than the socket itself. You've got this!
- Take your plastic opening tool and gently use the edge to lift up the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front camera cable ZIF socket.
- Carefully peel off the headphone jack and front camera cable from the rear case. You've got this!
Step 39
- Gently wiggle and pull the headphone jack and front camera ribbon cable straight out of its cozy home on the logic board.
Step 40
- Take a moment to locate the three 2 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the SIM card slot cozy against the rear panel. Once you've found them, gently remove each screw and set them aside. You've got this!
Step 41
- Unscrew the two 2.9 mm Phillips screws holding the headphone jack in place along the top edge of the rear panel. Easy does it!
Step 42
Hold your horses! The assembly isn't going anywhere just yet because those ribbon cables are still hanging on tight.
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently pry the headphone jack out from its snug spot at the top of the rear panel. Easy does it!
Step 43
- Gently detach the front camera and microphone cables from the rear panel. Make sure to be cautious and take your time – you've got this!
Step 44
- Gently peel back the tape that's holding down the front camera cable connector—it's like unwrapping a little present!
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and carefully disconnect the front camera cable from the microphone cable just below it. You've got this!
Step 45
- Gently separate the front camera cable from the microphone cable—take it slow, you got this!
Step 46
Take care while peeling off the tape to avoid tangling or damaging those delicate camera, microphone, or headphone jack ribbon cables! You've got this!
- Peel off that piece of tape marked in red like a pro!
Step 47
- Gently lift the front camera away from the foam adhesive sticking it to the back panel.
Step 48
- Gently slide the front-facing camera cable out of its cozy little channel in the rear panel.
- Carefully detach the front-facing camera from your iPad, giving it a warm goodbye.
Step 49
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently unplug the microphone cable connector.
- Carefully take out the headphone jack and SIM slot from the device.
Step 50
- If you spot any tape hiding the end of the dock connector cable, go ahead and peel it off.
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the dock connector cable’s connector and lift it out of its socket on the logic board with care.
- Carefully peel the dock connector ribbon cable away from the rear panel.
Step 51
- Slide the prying tool under the four wires at the end of the connector and carefully lift the speaker cable connector straight up from its home on the logic board. Remember, don't pry from the other end of the connector—doing so could damage those four little solder points underneath, and trust me, that means a microsolder repair will be in your future!
Step 52
Be careful not to pull the cable up as you disconnect it!
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently lift the retainer that's holding the upper component board cable connector snugly in its socket on the logic board.
- Now, with a gentle tug, pull the connector away from its cozy home on the logic board.
Step 53
- First up, grab your trusty screwdriver and take out those two 2.1 mm Phillips screws holding the logic board bracket snugly to the rear case, right by the digitizer cable socket. You've got this!
- Once those screws are out, gently lift away the logic board bracket from the rear case. You're doing great!
Step 54
- Unscrew those four 2.6 mm Phillips screws holding the logic and communications boards tight against the rear panel. You've got this!
Step 55
- Carefully slide a plastic opening tool under the logic board to lift it out from the rear case.
- Since the logic board is stuck down with adhesive, take your time and work evenly to peel it away without causing any damage.
Step 56
Hey there! Just a heads up: don't try to take out the logic board completely. It's still connected by three antenna cables, and we wouldn't want those to get tangled up!
- Gently lift the logic board out of the rear case, giving it a little twist towards the battery for that perfect angle.
Step 57
- Grab a plastic opening tool and gently unplug the cellular data antenna cable from its spot on the communications board. Easy does it!
Step 58
- Loosen and remove the lone 2.1 mm Phillips screw holding the cellular data antenna cable in place on the rear case.
Step 59
Time to peel off the two pieces of tape holding down the cellular data antenna cable to the rear case. Keep it gentle and steady!
- Gently pry up the two pieces of tape using the tip of your trusty spudger.
Tools Used
Step 60
- Use a plastic opening tool to carefully pop the cellular data antenna away from the back case without rushing it.
Step 61
- Carefully lift the cellular data antenna out from its snug spot inside the iPad casing.
- Slowly guide the antenna cable through the channel carved into the back panel, then take the antenna off the device.
Step 62
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool and gently detach the right antenna cable from its cozy spot on the communications board. You've got this!
Step 63
- Unscrew the lone 2.1 mm Phillips screw holding the right cellular antenna tight to the rear case.
Step 64
Now it's time to gently peel off the three tape strips holding the right cell antenna cable snug against the rear case.
- Grab the tip of a spudger to kick things off with each piece, then switch to the flat end to gracefully lift the tape without any rips. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 65
- Carefully loosen the antenna from the back case using a plastic opening tool—no force, just finesse!
- Lift out the right cellular data antenna from the iPad 2 and set it aside like a pro.
Step 66
- Gently peel off any tape hiding that GPS antenna ZIF connector. It's just a little step, but it'll make a big difference in the process!
Step 67
- Grab your spudger and gently use the tip to flip up the little tab on the ZIF connector. This will free the GPS cable, making it ready to go!
Tools Used
Step 68
The GPS antenna is basically a sticker stuck over the bottom of the right cellular data antenna’s compartment. When you pry it out in the next steps, it’s pretty likely to tear or break. If you’re trying to save the antenna, go slow, use plenty of heat, and handle it with care.
- Gently place a warm iOpener on the top edge of the iPad to loosen up the adhesive holding the GPS antenna to the back case. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 69
- Slide the pointy end of your trusty spudger under the GPS cable nestled inside the antenna recess.
- Gently nudge the spudger toward the top edge of the case to wiggle the cable free from its slot in the main body.
Tools Used
Step 70
Taking out the GPS antenna can be pretty tricky. The approach we’re showing here worked well on our end. Just a heads-up: follow this guide only if you’re swapping the GPS antenna for a new one, since messing with it otherwise might cause some serious damage.
- Grab your tweezers and carefully lift the GPS antenna cable to start peeling the antenna away from the back case. Easy does it!
Step 71
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the free end of the GPS antenna. No rush—just a smooth, steady move.
- Next, ease the spudger under the antenna sticker to break the adhesive seal that's keeping it stuck to the case. A little wiggle goes a long way!
Tools Used
Step 72
- Keep sliding that spudger under the antenna to gently break through the sticky adhesive holding it down.
Tools Used
Step 73
- Time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps and assemble in reverse order. If you hit a snag along the way, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for a helping hand.
