iPad 3 Wi-Fi Headphone Jack Board Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 48 Steps
Ready to swap out that tired Headphone Jack Board? Follow along step by step and you’ll have it replaced in no time, with a little patience and the right tools. Let’s get started and bring your device’s sound back to life!
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate rotates smoothly. If your iOpener gets jammed, it could overheat and cause a burn. Keep it spinning and safe!
Before diving in, give that microwave a quick clean! Any leftover gunk on the bottom could hitch a ride with the iOpener, and trust us, you don't want that mess sticking around.
- Pop that iOpener right in the center of the microwave!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a quick heads-up: keep an eye on that iOpener during your repair – we definitely don't want it to get too hot to handle. Overheating could cause it to burst, and that’s no fun. Aim to keep it below 100˚C (212˚F) for a safe and smooth experience!
And remember, if the iOpener looks like it's puffing up a bit, steer clear. Safety first!
If the middle of the iOpener is still feeling a bit too toasty for your fingers, hold off on reheating it for a bit longer while it cools down. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes, so you’ve got some time!
Depending on your microwave's power level, you might need to tweak the heating time a bit. The iOpener is just right when it feels a tad too hot to handle.
- Zap the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds to get it nice and warm.
- As you work, if the iOpener starts to cool down, just give it another 30-second spin in the microwave to keep the heat going.
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously hot, so handle with care. Rock an oven mitt if you want to keep your fingers happy.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of its two flat ends—steer clear of the hot middle part!
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Step 4
Careful now! The iOpener is going to be super toasty, so make sure to grip it by the end tabs only. Safety first, champ!
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener by carefully placing it in boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
- Heat that water up until it’s boiling, then turn off the heat—safety first!
- Carefully drop your iOpener into the bubbling water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it's taking a nice dip and is fully submerged.
- Using tongs (because we don’t want any burnt fingers here), fish out the heated iOpener from its hot water spa.
- Give the iOpener a good towel dry—no one likes a soggy iOpener!
- And voilà! Your iOpener is all set and ready to rock! If you need to warm it up again, just repeat the water boiling, turning off the heat, and soaking for 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep those eyes safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any unwanted cracks or scratches.
This will keep those pesky glass shards from flying around and help maintain the display's structure when you're prying and lifting it up. Stay safe and steady!
- If your display glass has a crack, let's keep it from getting worse and avoid any pesky accidents while you work! Grab some tape and cover that glass up.
- Get ready to layer on some clear packing tape! Start at one edge and lay overlapping strips over the iPad's display until it’s fully shielded.
- Now, follow the guide as best as you can! Just a heads up: once the glass is cracked, it might want to keep breaking as you go. You might find it handy to use a metal prying tool to help scoop out those glass pieces.
Step 6
Just a friendly reminder: when working with broken glass, it's a smart move to rock some safety glasses! They'll keep those pesky shards from flying your way.
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of the iPad, pressing down so it makes solid contact with the surface.
- Chill out and let it hang out there for about 90 seconds before you try to pop open the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting the tip of your opening tool wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle. No rush—gently wiggle that tool back and forth like it's dancing its way through, and you'll be golden.
- Look closely at the upper right corner of your iPad - there's a sneaky little gap in the adhesive ring, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Time to take advantage of this little flaw!
- Now, let's get to work! Line up your tool with the mute button and gently insert the very tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little poke to widen that crack, and you'll be on your way!
Step 8
- Be sure to position the tool just right— nestled snugly between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You've got this!
Step 9
- Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool snugly tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right into the gap, just beside the opening tool. Easy does it!
Step 10
- Gently pull out the plastic opening tool from the iPad, then slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 11
- As you tackle the task of loosening the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, give that iOpener another heat-up and place it back on the bottom edge of the iPad. You're doing great!
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Step 12
This adhesive is super tough, so be ready to bring some muscle—but take it slow and steady!
If you can spot the tip of your trusty opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, just give it a gentle tug. While using the pick this deep won't cause any harm, it might leave some sticky residue on the LCD. Just a heads up!
- As the iOpener warms up the bottom edge, start peeling back the adhesive from the right side of your iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, freeing up that adhesive with every move.
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Step 13
You might want to slide that heated iOpener back to the right side of the iPad as you peel away the adhesive. This all depends on how much time the iPad has had to cool down while you were busy working your magic.
- If the opening pick gets caught in the sticky stuff, just give it a gentle 'roll' along the edge of the iPad to keep on freeing that adhesive like a pro.
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Step 14
- Before you lift the first pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slip a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to stop the adhesive from sticking back together. Trust me, this will save you time!
- Give that iOpener another heat-up, and move it to the top edge of your iPad. It's all about keeping things nice and warm for smooth progress.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is secured to the bottom right corner of the rear case with screws and a cable. Because of its position, you'll want to handle this part with care to avoid any potential damage to the antenna. Take your time, and if you need any help, feel free to schedule a repair.
- Heads up! The upcoming steps need some serious care and attention.
- You’ll need to carefully peel back the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel, making sure not to mess with the delicate connections attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow each step closely.
Step 16
Keep the pick from sliding past the bottom right corner—going beyond there might mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, letting it release the sticky adhesive. Easy does it – you’ve got this!
Step 17
- Gently glide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna. You're doing great!
Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Be extra careful here—right near the corner is the Wi-Fi antenna, and it can easily get damaged if you release the adhesive too roughly. A little finesse goes a long way!
Gently wiggle the pick under the front glass, but don’t yank it all the way out—leave about 1/8" (3 mm) tucked under there. Think of it as sneaking a little peek without revealing the whole secret!
Step 18
- Alright, once you've navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (that's about 3 inches, or 75 mm, from the right edge, right next to the home button), pop the opening pick back in all the way.
- Now, slide that pick to the right and let go of the adhesive that's keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
- Just a heads-up: the antenna is held in place at the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. By doing this step, you're safely detaching the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift that panel off, the antenna stays unharmed. You're doing great!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener heated for no more than one minute at a time, and give it a cool two-minute break before reheating. Your patience here will pay off!
If the adhesive has cooled down too much along the bottom edge, give your iOpener a little heat-up session to warm things up where you're working. Keep that adhesive nice and cozy!
- Gently keep peeling the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad. As you pull the opening pick further, let it glide around the home button. Once past the button, carefully push the pick in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to make sure you're on the right track. Easy does it!
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, carefully insert the pick no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep in this area to avoid accidentally messing with the home button ribbon cable. Take it easy and stay steady!
- Keep sliding that adhesive off along the entire bottom edge of your iPad.
- Leave the opening pick tucked under the front glass close to the home button to keep things steady.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave to give it a little warmth party, then place it on the left edge of the iPad. This will help get that adhesive all cozy and ready to part ways.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much, just swap out the iOpener for a fresh one along the top edge and keep on going! And if your iOpener is feeling a little chilly, give it a quick reheat to get back in the game.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
- The adhesive in this area is pretty thick, so you’ll need a bit of muscle. Take your time and be careful—don’t rush or you might end up with a surprise injury or an unhappy iPad!
- If the pick feels like it's stuck in the sticky stuff, just roll it like shown in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 23
If the adhesive is nice and warm, feel free to take the iOpener off the iPad for now. But if it's still pretty sticky, just heat up the iOpener again and stick it on the left edge while you get down to business.
- Keep peeling away the adhesive at the top edge of your iPad, and gently glide that opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2" (50 mm) up from the iPad’s bottom. When your pick hits around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom, it's time to stop sliding and take a breather.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad to start peeling away the adhesive. The adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running down the entire left side. Just make sure to keep the pick shallow—about half an inch (10mm) max—so you don’t accidentally damage the digitizer. Slow and steady wins the race!
Step 25
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s bottom edge. Take it slow and steady to avoid slicing through this little guy.
- With the trusty opening pick still tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently coax the adhesive loose at the bottom left corner. It's like giving it a little nudge to say, 'Time to let go!'
Step 26
It looks like some of the adhesive around the edges of your iPad has decided to stick around a little longer than expected. No worries! Just grab a pick and gently slide it under the area where the front glass is still clinging on. Give that adhesive a little slice, and you’ll be on your way to a smooth repair.
- Grab one of those nifty opening picks and gently nudge up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Once it’s popped open a bit, go ahead and use your fingers to hold it steady!
Step 27
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive still hanging on, and gently slide an opening pick to slice through any glue keeping that front panel stuck.
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently flip the front glass away from the device.
- When putting it back together, grab a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to wipe away any dust or fingerprints on the LCD before snapping the glass back in place.
Step 28
- Unscrew those four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD to the aluminum frame—time to set them free!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is delicate and might snap if you give it too much flex. Keep it cool and steady!
- Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. Nice and steady, you got this!
- Now, carefully rotate the LCD along its left edge and let it rest on top of the front panel. Almost there!
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Step 30
- Carefully use the tip of a spudger to lift the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector under wraps.
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Step 31
- Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector like you're opening a tiny treasure chest.
- With a little finesse, use your fingers or tweezers to wiggle that LCD ribbon cable free from its cozy spot on the logic board.
Step 32
- Gently lift the LCD off the front panel without touching the screen. Keep it steady and try not to rush – your phone will thank you for it!
Step 33
Gently lift the tape holding down the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board, if it’s in the way.
- Lift the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors with care.
Step 34
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to nudge the adhesive away from under the digitizer ribbon cable.
- Slowly and carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board.
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Step 35
- Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable, then use the flat end of your spudger to carefully pop loose the adhesive holding the cable to the aluminum back. Easy does it!
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Step 36
- Gently slide the digitizer ribbon cable out of its snug spot in the aluminum frame. A little pull, but not too hard, and you're good!
- Carefully detach the front panel from the iPad and set it aside – you’re one step closer to the fix!
Step 37
- Gently peel back and take off the electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector.
- Grab your trusty spudger and carefully flip up the little retaining flap on each of the ZIF connectors that hold the headphone jack cable to the logic board.
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Step 38
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free the adhesive holding it to the rear aluminum frame.
- Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.
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Step 39
- Gently peel back and take off the adhesive tape covering the headphone jack assembly.
Step 40
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently pop the front-facing camera connector off its spot on the headphone jack assembly.
- Then, slide your spudger to the right to free up the adhesive that’s keeping the camera cable stuck down.
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Step 41
- Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift the little flap holding down the microphone cable’s ZIF connector. Easy does it!
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Step 42
- Gently slide the tip of your spudger under the microphone ribbon cable, carefully freeing it from its ZIF connector.
- Now, give that spudger a little shimmy to the left to break free the adhesive that's keeping the microphone ribbon cable snug against the headphone jack assembly.
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Step 43
- Lift up the little flap holding the volume/power button ribbon cable connector onto the headphone jack assembly board—think of it like opening a tiny door.
- Gently slide the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector like you're unplugging a delicate plug.
Step 44
These screws dive into the aluminum frame at an angle. Keep your screwdriver perfectly aligned with the screw to avoid any annoying stripping mishaps.
- Let's get to work! Start by unscrewing the screws holding the headphone jack assembly in place. You'll need to locate and remove the following:
- Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws
- Two 2.0 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws
- Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws
Step 45
- Carefully lift the headphone jack assembly ribbon cable away from the cozy foam pad nestled in the top left corner of the rear case.
- If it feels a bit stuck, grab the flat end of a spudger and gently coax it free from the adhesive that's holding it down.
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Step 46
- Hold the headphone jack assembly firmly with both hands and gently pull it out from the iPad, keeping an eye on any cables that might be hanging out.
Step 47
- Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pop the rear-facing camera out of its cozy little home on the underside of the headphone jack assembly board.
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Step 48
- Now it's time to put everything back together! Just follow these steps in reverse, and you'll be back in action in no time. If you hit a snag, don't hesitate to schedule a repair for some expert help!
