iPad 3 Wi-Fi Rear Facing Camera Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 48 Steps
Follow this straightforward guide to swap out the Rear Facing Camera like a pro.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate spins without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets a bit too cozy and gets stuck, it could overheat and cause a little burn. Keep it moving for a smooth operation!
It's a great idea to give your microwave a quick clean before diving in, as any leftover gunk on the bottom might just hitch a ride on the iOpener. Keep it neat and tidy for the best results!
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of your microwave and get ready to heat things up!
Tools Used
Step 2
Take it easy heating the iOpener—overcooking it might cause it to pop like a balloon. Keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) to stay safe.
If your iOpener looks puffed up or swollen, do NOT touch it. Just step away.
If it’s still too toasty in the center to handle, keep using it while it cools down a bit before heating again. When warmed just right, the iOpener stays nice and warm for about 10 minutes.
Depending on how powerful your microwave is, you might need to tweak the time a bit. The iOpener is ready to go when it’s just about too hot to handle!
- Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds.
- As you go along and the iOpener cools down, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 3
Watch out! The iOpener is going to be super hot, so handle it with care. An oven mitt can be your best buddy here if you need it.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the flat ends to keep your fingers safe from that toasty center.
Tools Used
Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the little end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
Don't have a microwave? No worries! Just heat your iOpener using good old-fashioned boiling water for this step.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then switch off the heat.
- Carefully dunk your iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.
- Use tongs to fish the iOpener out of the water—watch out, it’s hot!
- Give your iOpener a good towel dry so it’s ready to work its magic.
- You’re all set! If it cools down and you need more heat, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and soak the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.
Tools Used
Step 5
Put on your safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any ouch moments.
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check and ensure your display has the strength it needs while you’re prying and lifting it up.
- If your display glass has taken a hit and is cracked, let’s keep things safe and sound during your repair! Grab some tape and cover that glass to prevent any further breakage and protect your fingers.
- Go ahead and lay down some overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display until it’s all snugly covered. Think of it as giving your device a nice little bandage!
- Now, just do your best to follow the rest of the guide as we walk through this together. Just a heads up, once the glass starts cracking, it might want to keep on doing its thing. You might need to bring in a metal prying tool to scoop out the pieces. And remember, if you find yourself in a tough spot, you can always schedule a repair!
Step 6
Heads up! Since you’ll likely be handling some shattered glass here, we highly recommend rocking a pair of safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from making a surprise appearance. Stay safe and stylish!
- Place the iOpener flat along the right edge of your iPad, pressing it down so it makes solid contact with the surface.
- Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try peeling open the front panel.
Tools Used
Step 7
It might take a little muscle to slide that sneaky wedge of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Just take your time and be gentle, giving it a little wiggle back and forth as needed. You've got this!
- Hey there! Check it out: there's a tiny opening in the iPad's adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Time to take advantage of this little vulnerability!
- Now, line up your tool with the mute button and gently slide the tip of your plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little poke will do—enough to widen that crack for your next move!
Step 8
- Be sure to position the tool just right—right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You've got this!
Step 9
- Wedge the tip of your plastic opening tool between the front glass and plastic bezel, then gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it to keep things moving.
Step 10
- Take that trusty plastic opening tool out of the iPad's grip, and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass—aim for about half an inch. You're doing great!
Step 11
- As you tackle that sticky adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give your iOpener a little reheat love, then pop it back on the bottom edge of the iPad.
Tools Used
Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to channel your inner superhero to get it off. Just take your time and be gentle with it!
If you spot the tip of your opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently pull it back just a bit. Using the pick this far in won’t harm anything, but it might leave some adhesive smudges on the LCD.
- While the iOpener is warming up the bottom edge, start loosening the adhesive along the right side of your iPad.
- Gently glide the opening pick down the edge, peeling away the adhesive as you move along.
Tools Used
Step 13
You might need to shift that cozy heated iOpener back to the right edge of your iPad as you peel away the adhesive. This little dance depends on how long your iPad has been chilling while you were busy working your magic.
- If your opening pick gets a bit stuck in the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the side of the iPad to keep loosening that adhesive. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 14
- Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.
- Heat up the iOpener again, then move it over to the top edge of the iPad to get things nice and warm.
Tools Used
Step 15
- Heads up: the next steps call for some serious care.
- You'll need to gently loosen the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the fragile parts connecting it to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along carefully.
The Wi-Fi antenna is secured to the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Since the antenna is positioned at a specific angle, be extra careful while handling it to avoid any damage. Take your time, and if you feel unsure at any point, remember you can always schedule a repair.
Step 16
Be careful not to slide the pick too far into the bottom right corner. You could end up messing with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive hanging out there.
Step 17
Take extra care as you move the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is tucked right near the corner, and if the adhesive comes loose too quickly, it’s easy to snip that antenna. Proceed with caution!
Keep the pick tucked just a tiny bit under the front glass—about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip should stay put—don’t pull it all the way out!
- Gently glide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to free up the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna. You're doing great!
Step 18
- After you’ve gone past the Wi-Fi antenna—about 3 inches (75 mm) from the right edge, right next to the home button—slide your opening pick all the way in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to break free the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and connected with a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step makes sure the antenna detaches cleanly from the front panel so you don’t accidentally mess it up when removing the panel.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener's heat sessions short and sweet – no more than a minute at a time. And don’t forget to let it cool down for at least two minutes before you fire it up again!
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool along the bottom edge, just give that iOpener a little reheat party to warm up the sticky stuff where you're working.
- Gently continue working your way along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. When you reach the home button, make sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to go around it. Once you’ve passed the home button, reinsert the pick to about a half-inch (10 mm) deep, keeping things steady and smooth.
Tools Used
Step 20
For iPad 4 models, carefully slide the pick in, but only go about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep to steer clear of the home button ribbon cable. A little caution goes a long way!
- Keep peeling that adhesive strip along the entire bottom edge of the iPad.
- Slip the opening pick under the front glass right by the home button and leave it there for now.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener into the microwave for a quick heat-up, then place it on the left side of the iPad to get that sticky adhesive nice and warm in that spot.
Tools Used
Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, go ahead and swap the iOpener to the top edge and keep working. If it’s gotten too chilly, just give it another round of heat.
- Gently slide your opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, nudging it out a bit as you maneuver around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is pretty stubborn, so you might need to apply some firm, steady pressure. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips or mishaps with your device or fingers.
- If your pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try "rolling" it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
Tools Used
Step 23
If the adhesive feels warm enough, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit—this will make things easier. But, if it’s still sticking like crazy, no worries! Just give the iOpener another heat-up session and place it along the left edge while you keep working.
- Keep peeling that adhesive off the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 24
The digitizer cable is about 2" (50 mm) up from the bottom of the iPad. Once you’re around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom, it’s time to stop sliding the pick. Easy does it!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left side of your iPad, and watch as the adhesive gives way! Remember, it's a bit thinner here because of the digitizer stretching along that whole edge. Just be sure to keep the pick shallow—no more than about 1/2 inch (10 mm)—to keep that digitizer safe and sound!
Step 25
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s bottom edge. Take it slow and steady to avoid accidentally snipping this little guy.
- Carefully slide the opening pick that’s still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to gently loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the iPad’s edge likes to play sticky and settle back down. If that happens, gently slide a pick under the spot where the front glass is still holding on and carefully 'cut' through the adhesive to free it.
- Grab an opening pick and carefully lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it's lifted, gently hold it with your fingers to keep things steady.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky spots that might still be hanging on! Use an opening pick to carefully slice through any adhesive that's keeping the front panel stuck. Take it slow and steady – we’ve got this!
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.
- When putting it back together, take a moment to wipe the LCD clean with a microfiber cloth and blast away any dust or smudges with some compressed air before snapping the glass back on.
Step 28
- Loosen and take out the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD onto the aluminum frame. Keep them safe!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is as delicate as a butterfly's wing and could snap if you bend it too much. Keep it cool and gentle, and all will be well!
- Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the iPad’s LCD.
- Swing the LCD open like a door on its left side and carefully lay it face-up on the front panel.
Tools Used
Step 30
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently peel back the tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector. Take it slow and steady—this part’s like unwrapping a gift, but with a bit more care!
Tools Used
Step 31
- Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
- With a little finesse from your fingers or some trusty tweezers, carefully tug the LCD ribbon cable out of its cozy spot on the logic board.
Step 32
- Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel, keeping your hands off the screen side so it stays smudge-free and looking sharp.
Step 33
If needed, gently peel away the tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. Take your time, and be careful not to rush—this part's all about precision!
- Gently lift the little retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable. You've got this!
Step 34
- Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to loosen the adhesive holding it down.
- Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board—slow and steady wins the race!
Tools Used
Step 35
- Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable, then grab your spudger and carefully use its flat end to free the adhesive that's holding the cable to the rear aluminum case. Take it slow, you're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 36
- Gently grip the digitizer ribbon cable with your fingers and pull it free from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.
- Now, carefully lift the front panel off your iPad. It’s like giving it a little nudge to set it free!
Step 37
- Carefully peel back that piece of electrical tape that’s been keeping the headphone jack assembly cable connector snug and secure. It's time for some freedom!
- Using the tip of a trusty spudger, gently flip up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 38
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable, freeing it from the adhesive that's been keeping it cozy with the rear aluminum frame.
- Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its snug little home on the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently peel away the adhesive tape covering the headphone jack assembly. Take your time – it should come off smoothly.
Step 40
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pop the front-facing camera connector off its socket on the headphone jack assembly.
- Slide the spudger to the right to loosen the adhesive that’s keeping the camera cable in place.
Tools Used
Step 41
- Grab your handy spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 42
- Gently slide the spudger tip under the microphone ribbon cable to pop it out of its ZIF connector.
- Carefully move the spudger to the left to peel away the adhesive securing the microphone ribbon cable to the headphone jack assembly.
Tools Used
Step 43
- Lift up the little flap that’s holding the volume/power button ribbon cable connector in place on the headphone jack assembly board.
- Gently pull the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector.
Step 44
These screws are set at an angle into the aluminum frame. Keep your screwdriver lined up straight with the screw to avoid slipping and stripping it.
- Let's get those screws out of the headphone jack assembly:
- Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws
- Two 2.0 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws
- Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws
Step 45
- Carefully lift the headphone jack assembly ribbon cable off the foam pad located at the top left corner of the rear case.
- If the ribbon cable is being stubborn, gently use the flat end of a spudger to free up the adhesive holding it to the foam.
Tools Used
Step 46
- With a firm grip on the headphone jack assembly, gently pull it away from the iPad. Just keep an eye out for any cables that might be hanging on for dear life.
Step 47
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end beneath the rear-facing camera. Give it a little nudge to pop that camera right out of its cozy home on the headphone jack assembly board. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 48
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse—it’s like hitting rewind on your favorite song!
