iPad 4 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 55 Steps
Time to swap out that old battery and get your device feeling fresh again! Follow these easy steps to replace it and get back to doing what you love. It’s simpler than it sounds—let’s dive in! If you need help, feel free to schedule a repair.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Double-check that the plate spins without a hitch. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause a burn, so keep it moving!
Before you dive in, give your microwave a quick clean. Any leftover crumbs or spills on the bottom could get all sticky and mess with your iOpener. A clean workspace makes the job smoother!
- Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let the magic happen!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: keep an eye on the iOpener during your repair adventure. We want to avoid any dramatic bursting situations, so let's not heat it beyond 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks like it's had a little too much air and is swollen, definitely avoid touching it.
If the middle of your iOpener is still feeling a bit too toasty to handle, no worries! Keep it in action while it cools down a tad before you give it another heat-up. A well-heated iOpener can keep the warmth going for about 10 minutes, so you’re in good shape!
Depending on the microwave's wattage, you may need to adjust the time a bit. The iOpener is ready when it’s just hot enough to make you think twice about touching it—almost there, but not quite too much.
- Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it ready to work its magic.
- As you go along, if the iOpener starts to cool off, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things toasty.
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets pretty hot, so make sure to handle it with care. Grab an oven mitt if you need some extra protection.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to hold it by one of the flat ends to avoid grabbing the super-hot middle. You got this!
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe and sound.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener by dipping it in some boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, cozy bath.
- Heat that water until it’s bubbling away, then turn off the heat. We’re not cooking dinner here!
- Gently place your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it's fully submerged—just like it's taking a dip!
- Using some tongs (safety first!), fish out that warm iOpener from the water.
- Give your iOpener a good towel-dry. We want it to be nice and dry before use!
- And voila! Your iOpener is all set and ready to roll! If it needs a little more heat, just repeat the water bath for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Pop on your safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and take it easy with the LCD screen – it's fragile, like your patience on a Monday!
This trick keeps those pesky glass shards from making a run for it and gives you some solid grip while you pry and lift the display.
- If your display glass is cracked, keep it from shattering further and avoid any accidental cuts by covering it with some tape.
- Layer clear packing tape over the display, making sure to cover the whole screen. It's like giving your iPad a nice protective blanket!
- Keep following the guide as best as you can. Just know, once that glass cracks, it may keep on breaking, and you might need to break out a metal prying tool to scoop the pieces out.
Step 6
Since you're probably going to be dealing with some shattered glass here, it’s a good idea to throw on some safety glasses. Better safe than sorry when it comes to those flying shards!
- Place the iOpener gently on the right edge of your iPad, ensuring it's sitting snugly so it makes good contact with the surface. You want that iPad to feel the warmth!
- Give the iOpener about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try to pry open the front panel. Patience is key here!
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Step 7
It might take a bit of elbow grease to slide that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Just take your time, stay cool, and gently wiggle the plastic opening tool back and forth as needed. You've got this!
- There’s a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring up in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top edge. That’s your secret entry point.
- Line up your tool with the mute button, then gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just a little nudge with the tip to start widening the gap.
Step 8
- Gently slide your tool between the plastic bezel and the glass panel—think of it as giving your device a little wiggle room without any drama.
Step 9
- With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right next to the tool. You're doing great!
Step 10
- Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad and slide the opening pick a bit deeper underneath the front glass, aiming for about 0.5 inches in depth.
Step 11
- As you tackle the task of loosening that stubborn adhesive on the right side of your iPad, give your trusty iOpener another round in the heat! Pop it back on the bottom edge of the iPad and let the warmth work its magic.
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Step 12
- As we heat up the bottom edge with the iOpener, let’s get things rolling by loosening up that adhesive on the right edge of your iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive along the way. You're doing great!
This adhesive really means business, so you might need to put some muscle into it. Take it slow and steady, and you'll get there!
If the tip of your opening pick is peeking under the front glass, just pull it out a tiny bit. Don’t worry, using the pick this deep won’t cause any harm, but you might end up with a bit of sticky residue on your LCD, which is a bit of a hassle to clean off.
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Step 13
You might find it helpful to slide the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you peel away the adhesive. Just keep in mind, this little dance depends on how long the iPad has been cooling off while you were busy working your magic.
- If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, gently roll it along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.
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Step 14
- Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that sticky adhesive from sticking back together.
- Heat up the iOpener again, then shift it over to the top edge of your iPad to get ready for the next step.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly secured to the bottom right corner of the rear case of the iPad with screws and a cable. Given the delicate positioning of the Wi-Fi antenna, it's super important to tread carefully—otherwise, you might end up causing some serious harm to the antenna. Let's keep it safe and sound!
- Heads up! The next steps need you to be extra careful.
- You’ll need to gently free the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the delicate parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and follow along closely.
Step 16
Keep the pick from sliding past the bottom right corner—going further might mess up the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don’t want that!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.
Step 17
Carefully slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna hangs out near the corner and can easily get snipped if the adhesive comes loose the wrong way. Handle with care!
Keep the pick gently wedged under the front glass—don’t pull it all the way out. Just slide it back a bit so about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip is still tucked under the glass, holding the spot steady.
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully loosen the adhesive holding down the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 18
- Once you've navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3 inches or 75 mm from the right edge, right near the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way.
- Now, gently glide the pick to the right to release the adhesive that’s keeping the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
- Just a heads up, the antenna is mounted at the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is crucial for detaching the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift the panel off, your antenna stays safe and sound.
Step 19
Keep your iOpener's heating sessions short and sweet—no more than a minute at a time! And remember to give it a cool two minutes before warming it up again. Your device will thank you for it!
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has gotten too chilly, just give the iOpener another quick warm-up to soften things back up where you’re working.
- Keep easing the adhesive away along the bottom edge of the iPad. Slide your opening pick out enough to curve around the home button, then pop it back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’ve cleared that button. Easy does it!
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, gently slide the pick in this area but only up to 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound. You're doing great!
- Keep gently peeling the adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Leave the opening pick tucked under the front glass near the home button to keep things steady.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave to warm it up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently heat the adhesive in that area.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, pop the iOpener back on the top edge and keep at it. If the iOpener itself feels chilly, just give it another quick heat-up and you’re good to go.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Keep in mind that the adhesive in this area can be a bit stubborn, so don't hesitate to apply some extra muscle. Just take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
- If the opening pick starts to feel like it's stuck in the sticky stuff, try 'rolling' the pick as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 23
If the adhesive feels warm enough, go ahead and take the iOpener off for easier handling. But if it’s still sticking like glue, pop the iOpener back on the left edge to keep things nice and toasty while you work.
- Keep working that adhesive loose along the top edge of your iPad, and gently maneuver the opening pick around the top left corner. You've got this!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable hangs out about 2" (50 mm) up from the bottom of your iPad. When sliding your pick, ease up and stop once you hit around 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom to keep things safe and sound.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, easing the adhesive apart as you go. The adhesive here is pretty thin because of the digitizer running the entire left side. Keep the pick shallow—no deeper than about 10 mm (half an inch)—to avoid any accidental digitizer damage.
Step 25
Be super careful! The bottom of that digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take it nice and slow, and keep an eye out so you don't accidentally sever this little guy!
- Slide the opening pick, which is still tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad, to gently free the adhesive at the bottom left corner.
Step 26
Looks like some of that adhesive around the iPad's edges might have decided to stick around a bit too much! No worries, just grab a pick and gently slide it underneath the edge where the front glass is still holding on tight. Give that adhesive a little snip to help it let go.
- Grab your trusty opening pick and gently lift up the bottom right corner of the iPad. Get a good grip with your fingers and let's get this party started!
Step 27
Watch out for any stubborn adhesive still hanging on! Grab an opening pick and gently slice through any sticky stuff keeping the front panel in place.
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently swivel the front glass away from the device.
- When putting everything back together, wipe down the LCD with a microfiber cloth and blow away any dust with compressed air before snapping the glass back in place.
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge that ribbon cable out of the way so you can access and remove the bottom left screw like a pro.
- Take out the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD onto the aluminum frame. Easy does it!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is delicate and might snap if you bend it too much, so keep it chill and gentle.
- Grab a plastic opening tool or spudger and gently pry up the right edge of the iPad's LCD.
- Carefully swing the LCD open along its left edge and let it rest on top of the front glass panel.
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Step 30
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift that sneaky piece of tape hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. You've got this!
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Step 31
- Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector like you’re opening a treasure chest.
- With a little finesse, use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable out from its snug home on the logic board.
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Step 32
- Carefully lift the LCD off the front panel—just make sure to keep your hands away from the front of the screen!
Step 33
If you spot any electrical tape hiding over the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, or home button ribbon cable, go ahead and peel it off gently.
Step 34
- Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector.
Step 35
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently wiggle that home button ribbon cable free from its snug little home on the logic board. You've got this!
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Step 36
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable out of its snug spot in the back case. Keep it cool, you got this!
Step 37
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently lift the tape that's holding the digitizer ribbon cable snug against the logic board. You've got this!
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Step 38
- Gently lift up the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors. You've got this!
Step 39
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to break up the sticky adhesive holding it down.
- Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board—no sideways moves here!
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Step 40
- Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pop loose the adhesive that’s holding the cable down to the back aluminum case.
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Step 41
- Gently wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable free from its snug spot in the aluminum frame using your fingers.
- Lift the front panel off the iPad carefully.
Step 42
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel back that sneaky piece of electrical tape hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It's time to say goodbye to that tape!
- Next up, take your spudger and use its tip to flip up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors that are holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You're doing great!
Step 43
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the adhesive that's been holding it snugly to the rear aluminum frame.
- Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out from its cozy little home in the logic board.
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Step 44
Be sure to pry gently under the connector, not the socket itself. Going after the socket can seriously mess things up!
You might find a piece of black tape hiding this connector. Gently peel it off with tweezers, and you're good to go!
- Time to unplug a few things from the logic board. First up, carefully disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna cable.
- Next, let's detach the speaker connector cable—don't rush it, just make sure it's free.
- Finally, unplug the Dock/Lightning connector cable, and you're good to go.
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Step 45
- Time to get those screws out! First up, you’ll want to tackle the four screws that are holding the logic board snug against the rear aluminum panel.
- Grab three of those 2.1mm Phillips #00 screws and one 2.5mm Phillips #00 screw.
- Once you've got those unscrewed, you’ll be all set to move on!
Step 46
- With the logic board held by the edge that's away from the Lightning connector, gently ease it away from the iPad. You've got this!
Step 47
Carefully remove the battery from the iPad without poking or damaging it. Batteries hold some seriously nasty chemicals that are no joke if they leak or get breathed in.
Take it slow and steady as you peel away the adhesive under the battery. Just 2 inches at a time to keep things smooth and avoid stressing out your battery. No rush – you've got this!
- The battery is stuck to the aluminum frame with a seriously strong adhesive, so get ready for a bit of a sticky situation.
Step 48
The adhesive is super strong, so you'll need to put in some muscle to loosen it up. Take your time and be gentle, keeping your metal spudger steady to avoid any slips. You've got this!
- Gently slide the flat end of a metal spudger under the battery at the bottom of your iPad. We're just getting started!
- Now, carefully glide that spudger about 1.5 inches beneath the battery to loosen the adhesive. You're doing great!
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Step 49
- Now, just like we did earlier, carefully slide the spudger about 2 inches under the remaining adhesive strips. Take it slow and steady—no rush!
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Step 50
- Gently slide the metal spudger under the battery connector to break the adhesive seal, freeing it up for the next step.
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Step 51
- Keep peeling back the adhesive around the top part of the battery—almost there!
Step 52
As you slide that spudger further under the battery, make sure to keep it nice and flat against the rear case. We want to avoid any battery bending drama, right?
- Pick up right where you left off, and slide that trusty metal spudger another couple of inches under the battery, like you're giving it a little nudge to wake up!
- Keep the momentum going and do the same for the rest of those adhesive strips. You've got this!
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Step 53
- Just like before, keep working your way through those strips, loosening the adhesive until you hit about 4 inches deep. Take your time and stay steady—you're doing great!
Step 54
- For your final maneuver, slide that metal spudger all the way to the right edge of the iPad like you're on a mission!
- Keep on trucking through those adhesive strips—you're almost there!
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Step 55
Grab your trusty metal spudger and gently work it around to break free any sticky adhesive still clinging onto the battery. You've got this!
- To put your device back together, just retrace your steps in reverse and check out our iPad 4 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach that front panel like a pro! If you find yourself in a pickle, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for some expert help.
