iPad 4 Wi-Fi Rear Facing Camera Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 54 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out the rear-facing camera like a pro.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: check that the plate spins smoothly without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and cause burns, so keep an eye on it!
Before diving in, give your microwave a little TLC. A quick clean can save you from the dreaded gunk getting cozy on your iOpener. Trust us, it’s worth the effort!
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like it's the star of the show!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep your iOpener from getting too hot while you work your magic. If it starts to overheat, it could pop, and that’s not the fun kind of surprise we want! Make sure to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks a little puffy, best to steer clear of it!
Still feeling a bit hot in the middle? No worries! Just hang tight and let it cool down a bit before giving it another heat-up. A nicely warmed iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
Microwave wattage varies, so your heating time might need some tweaking. Your iOpener is ready to rock when it’s just a tad too hot to keep your fingers on it comfortably.
- Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it ready.
- If it starts to cool down while you’re working, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep the heat going.
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Step 3
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot—handle with care and throw on an oven mitt if you want to keep your fingers happy.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the flat ends—steer clear of that hot center!
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets seriously hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener in a pot of boiling water to warm it up.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely dunk your iOpener.
- Turn up the heat until the water's boiling, then switch off the stove.
- Drop the iOpener into the hot water and let it chill for about 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it's fully submerged.
- Use some tongs to safely fish out your iOpener from the steamy water.
- Give it a good drying off with a towel.
- Boom! Your iOpener is all set to go. Need to heat it up again? Just bring the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and remember to treat that LCD screen like the delicate beauty it is. Handle with care!
This will help keep those sneaky glass shards in check and give your screen some extra muscle while you pry and lift the display.
- Got a cracked display? No worries—let's keep things safe. Tape the glass to prevent further breakage and avoid any potential injuries while you're getting your hands dirty with the repair.
- Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips across the iPad's display until it's fully covered. This will keep everything in place as you proceed.
- Now, follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Once the glass is cracked, it may keep on cracking, so you might need a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out carefully.
Step 6
Heads up! Since this step might have you dealing with some sneaky shards of broken glass, we highly recommend slipping on some safety glasses to keep those pesky bits out of your eyes.
- Place the iOpener gently along the right edge of your iPad. Make sure it’s sitting flat and comfortably, so it makes good contact with the surface.
- Now, let it chill there for about 90 seconds. This will give it time to work its magic before you attempt to lift the front panel.
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Step 7
Getting that wedged tip of your opening tool between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle, but don’t sweat it! Just take your time and gently wiggle the plastic tool back and forth as needed. You've got this!
- Spot a tiny gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top edge. That little gap is your in!
- Line up your tool with the mute button, then gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and plastic bezel. Just a quick nudge with the tip to pry the gap open a bit.
Step 8
- Ensure you position the tool just right—nestled between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. You've got this!
Step 9
- Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool snug between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to it. Easy does it!
Step 10
- Gently slide the plastic opening tool away from the iPad, then carefully nudge the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch should do the trick.
Step 11
- As you work on loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad, go ahead and reheat the iOpener, then pop it back on the bottom edge to keep things warm and ready.
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Step 12
The adhesive is pretty tough, so you might need to apply some serious muscle. Take it slow and steady—you've got this!
If you can spot the tip of the opening pick peeking beneath the front glass, give it a gentle tug to pull it out just a smidge. While it's perfectly safe to use the pick this deep, it might leave a little adhesive residue on the LCD. Just a heads up!
- As we warm up the bottom edge with the iOpener, let’s get started on loosening up that adhesive on the right edge of your iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the side of your iPad, making sure to release that adhesive as you go. You've got this!
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Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, you might find it helpful to place the heated iOpener back on the right edge of the iPad. This little tip can make a big difference, especially if your iPad has had a bit of time to chill while you were busy working on it.
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just roll it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.
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Step 14
- Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from sticking back together.
- Heat up your iOpener again, then move it over to the top edge of the iPad to loosen things up there.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad with some screws and a cable. Since the Wi-Fi antenna is positioned in a tricky spot, it's super important to handle it delicately—otherwise, you might end up causing some permanent damage. So, take a deep breath and proceed with care!
- Alright, time to get extra careful here.
- You’ll need to gently release the adhesive holding the antenna in place on the front panel. Make sure to avoid damaging the sensitive parts that connect the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow the steps closely!
Step 16
Be careful not to slide the pick past the bottom right corner. You might accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, and we definitely don't want that!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of your iPad to break free the adhesive. You've got this!
Step 17
Take it easy while gliding the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Keep an eye out for the Wi-Fi antenna hiding near the corner – it’s a bit of a delicate flower and can get hurt if the adhesive is not treated with care.
Don't yank the pick all the way out from under the front glass—just gently pull it out a bit so that about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays snug under the glass. A little goes a long way!
- Gently slide the tip of your opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad to carefully break the adhesive seal around the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it smooth and steady!
Step 18
- Alright, let's get this party started! Once you’ve cruised past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3 inches from the right edge, or snugly next to the home button), pop that opening pick back in all the way.
- Now, gently slide that pick to the right, and watch as the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass happily lets go.
- Remember, the antenna is secured to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is super important as it safely disconnects the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift that panel off, the antenna stays safe and sound. You've got this!
Step 19
Keep the iOpener's heating time to just a minute at a time, and remember to give it a little break of at least two minutes before heating it up again. Your patience will pay off!
If the adhesive has cooled down too much along the bottom edge, give your iOpener a quick reheat to warm up that sticky goodness where you're working.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the bottom edge of the iPad. Slide your opening pick out just enough to maneuver around the home button, then pop it back in about half an inch (10 mm) once you’ve cleared that spot.
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Step 20
When working on iPad 4 models, slide your pick no deeper than 1/2 inch (10 mm) here to keep the home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Keep on peeling back that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro!
- Once you've got that going, slide the opening pick snugly under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out there.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad to gently soften the adhesive in that area.
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Step 22
If the adhesive gets too chilly, just pop the iOpener back on the top edge and keep at it. If the iOpener itself cools down too much, give it a quick reheating and you’re good to go.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, easing it around the front-facing camera bracket with a slight pull.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is super stubborn, so you might need to apply some firm, steady pressure. Take it slow and steady to avoid slips or injuries.
- If the pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try "rolling" it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 23
Once the adhesive is nice and warm, feel free to take the iOpener off the iPad for easier handling. If it’s still holding on tight, just heat it up again and keep it cozy on the left edge while you do your thing.
- Keep peeling that adhesive off the top edge of your iPad, and gently glide the opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is about 2" (50 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. When you reach around 2.25" (60 mm), it's time to stop sliding the pick. Keep it steady, you’re getting close!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad, carefully releasing the adhesive as you go. Keep in mind, the adhesive is a bit thinner here because of the digitizer running along the entire left side. Be sure to keep the pick no deeper than about 1/2 inch (10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer.
Step 25
Heads up! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) from the iPad’s bottom edge. Take it slow and steady to keep that cable safe and sound.
- With your trusty opening pick still nestled at the bottom edge of your iPad, let’s free that adhesive in the bottom left corner. You got this!
Step 26
It looks like some of that sticky stuff around the edge of your iPad might have decided to reattach itself. No worries! Just gently slide a pick under the stubborn edge where the front glass is still holding on and give that adhesive a little snip. You've got this!
- Grab one of your trusty opening picks and gently wiggle it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then grip that corner with your fingers and lift it up.
Step 27
Watch out for any lingering adhesive that might still be hanging on, and grab an opening pick to slice through any sticky spots that are keeping the front panel in place.
- Grab the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, then gently swivel the front glass away from the device.
- When putting everything back together, give the LCD a quick once-over with a microfiber cloth and a puff of compressed air to shoo away any dust or fingerprints before snapping the glass back on.
Step 28
The bottom left screw is playing hide and seek behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge that ribbon cable aside to reveal and remove the sneaky bottom left screw.
- Unscrew those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. You've got this!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care, folks! That ribbon cable is a bit delicate and could snap if you give it too much of a bend. Keep it cool and take your time!
- Grab your plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of its cozy home in the iPad.
- Now, rotate the LCD along its left edge and carefully set it down on top of the front glass panel. Take it slow—everything is still going great!
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Step 30
- Gently slide the tip of your spudger under the tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector and peel it back carefully. Easy does it—no need to rush!
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Step 31
- Gently lift the little flap holding the LCD ribbon cable in place on the ZIF connector.
- Use your fingers or tweezers to carefully wiggle the LCD ribbon cable out of its spot on the logic board.
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Step 32
- Carefully lift the LCD away from the front panel, making sure not to touch the screen side.
Step 33
If you spot a strip of electrical tape hiding the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable, go ahead and peel it off gently.
Step 34
- Gently lift the little flap holding down the home button ribbon cable’s ZIF connector.
Step 35
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable out of its cozy spot on the logic board. You got this!
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Step 36
- Gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable out of its cozy little spot in the rear case.
Step 37
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel off the tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place on the logic board. No rush, just take your time and keep it steady!
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Step 38
- Gently flip up the little retaining flap on each of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors to unlock them. Keep it cool, you got this!
Step 39
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the digitizer ribbon cable to carefully break up the adhesive holding it in place.
- Once loosened, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board with a steady hand.
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Step 40
- Gently peel back the digitizer ribbon cable, then grab your trusty spudger and use its flat end to carefully lift the adhesive holding the cable to the back of the aluminum case. Easy does it!
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Step 41
- Gently use your fingers to wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable free from its snug spot in the aluminum frame.
- Carefully lift the front panel off the iPad.
Step 42
- Grab your tweezers and gently peel off the piece of electrical tape that’s hanging out over the headphone jack assembly cable connector.
- Next, take the pointy end of your spudger and flip up the little retaining flaps on both ZIF connectors—these are what hold the headphone jack cable snugly onto the logic board.
Step 43
- Gently slide the flat edge of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the sticky adhesive holding it to the rear aluminum frame.
- Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
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Step 44
- Gently nudge the front-facing camera ribbon cable to the side using the flat edge of your spudger, but don't go overboard and try to remove it. Just give it some room to breathe.
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Step 45
- Carefully peel back the adhesive tape covering the headphone jack assembly. Take your time, it's just a simple step, but doing it gently will keep things smooth for the next steps.
Step 46
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the tip to flip open the little flap holding the microphone cable ZIF connector in place.
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Step 47
- Slide the spudger’s tip gently under the microphone ribbon cable and nudge it out of its snug spot on the ZIF connector.
- Use the flat side of your spudger to tuck the microphone ribbon cable safely out of the way.
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Step 48
- Gently lift the retaining flap that holds the volume/power button ribbon cable connector in place on the headphone jack assembly board.
Step 49
- Gently slide the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector.
- Carefully lift the volume button ribbon cable upwards and move it out of the way.
Step 50
These screws are set at an angle into the aluminum frame. Keep your screwdriver lined up straight with the screw to avoid slipping and stripping it—precision is key!
- Let's loosen up the headphone jack assembly by removing these screws:
- Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws
- Two 2.2 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws
- Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws
Step 51
- Gently grasp the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly and lift it upwards toward the top of the device with care. You've got this!
Step 52
- Grab the headphone jack assembly firmly with one hand and gently pull it out of the iPad, keeping an eye on any cables that might be hanging out and getting caught.
Step 53
- With the flat side of your trusty spudger, gently nudge the rear-facing camera out of its cozy spot on the underside of the headphone jack assembly board. You've got this!
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Step 54
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse and use our iPad 4 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive Strips guide to get that front panel sticking like new. If you hit a snag, no worries—you can always schedule a repair with us!
