iPad 4 Wi-Fi Rotation Lock/Mute Switch Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 60 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out the rotation lock/mute switch with ease.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate can spin without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets trapped, it might overheat and cause a little meltdown.
It's a good idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in—any stubborn gunk stuck to the bottom could hitch a ride on your iOpener.
- Pop the iOpener right in the center of your microwave to get things warmed up.
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Step 2
Keep the iOpener in check while you're working! Don't let it get too hot – anything over 100˚C (212˚F) could cause a pop. Trust us, you don't want that.
If the iOpener starts to look like it's had one too many burritos and is swelling up, don't touch it. Seriously.
If the iOpener feels a bit too toasty in the middle, just give it some time to cool down before you give it another round of heating. A good iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.
Keep in mind that the cooking time for your microwave may vary depending on its wattage. You'll know the iOpener is ready when it feels just a touch too hot to handle. Safety first, but you're doing great!
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.
- As you work, if the iOpener starts to cool down, just heat it up again in thirty-second bursts to keep things warm and ready.
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Step 3
Careful with that iOpener! It’s going to be hotter than your favorite summer day, so handle it with care. If you’ve got oven mitts, now’s the time to show them off!
- Carefully grab the iOpener by one of its two flat ends to keep your fingers safe from the hot middle, then take it out of the microwave.
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe and sound.
No microwave? No problem! Just pop that iOpener in some boiling water to warm it up.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to fully dunk your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it boiling.
- Carefully place the iOpener into the hot water, making sure it’s fully submerged, and let it soak for 2-3 minutes.
- Use tongs to fish out the warmed-up iOpener—watch those fingers!
- Dry it off thoroughly with a towel so it’s ready to go.
- Need to reheat? Just repeat: boil water, turn off heat, and dunk the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
Grab some safety glasses to keep your eyes safe, and make sure you're extra careful around that LCD screen—no accidental smashes!
This helps keep those sneaky glass shards in check and gives the display some muscle when you’re prying it open.
- Got a cracked display glass? No worries! Keep it contained and avoid any mishaps during your repair by sticking some tape on it.
- Apply overlapping strips of clear packing tape over your device's display until you've got it fully covered. It's like giving your device a protective hug!
- Now, let's keep it rolling! Follow the rest of the guide as best as you can. Just a heads up, once that glass is broken, it may want to keep cracking as you work. You might need to grab a metal prying tool to scoop out the glass.
Step 6
Heads up! You might come across some broken glass in this step, so don't forget to wear your safety glasses to keep those flying shards at bay. Better safe than sorry!
- Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, ensuring it's nice and snug for optimal contact between the iPad and the iOpener.
- Give it a little time – let the bag chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive in to pry open that front panel.
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Step 7
It might take a little muscle to slip that wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Just take your time and be gentle, giving the plastic opening tool a little wiggle back and forth if you need to. You've got this!
- Spot a tiny gap in the adhesive ring of your iPad, hanging out in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. That's your golden opportunity!
- Now, let’s get to work! Line up your tool with the mute button and gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just the tip—enough to give that crack a little stretch!
Step 8
- Carefully slide your tool right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass—getting in the perfect spot makes all the difference!
Step 9
- Place the tip of your plastic opening tool gently between the front glass and the plastic bezel, then slide in a plastic opening pick right next to it, making sure it slips into the gap. Keep it smooth and steady as you go!
Step 10
- Gently take out the plastic opening tool from your iPad, and slide the opening pick a little deeper under the front glass, about 0.5 inches deep. You've got this!
Step 11
- As you carefully loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad, pop the iOpener back in the microwave for a quick warm-up, then place it back under the bottom edge to keep things nice and toasty.
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Step 12
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in a bit of muscle. Just take your time and be careful!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, gently slide it back just a bit. Using the pick this deep won’t cause damage, but it might leave some sticky adhesive marks on the LCD.
- While the iOpener is warming up the bottom edge, let's start tackling that sticky adhesive on the right edge of your iPad.
- Grab your opening pick and glide it down the edge of the iPad, freeing up that adhesive as you go. You've got this!
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Step 13
As you peel away the adhesive, you might want to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of your iPad. This little move really depends on how long your iPad has been chillin' while you were busy working your magic.
- If your opening pick is feeling a bit stubborn and gets stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad. Keep it moving to help loosen that sticky stuff up!
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Step 14
- Before pulling out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of your iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep that adhesive from sticking back together.
- Warm up the iOpener again, then shift it over to the top edge of the iPad to keep things nice and pliable.
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is secured to the bottom right corner of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Since the antenna is in a bit of a tricky spot, be extra careful when working with it—you don’t want to accidentally cause permanent damage. Take it slow and steady, and you'll do just fine!
- Heads up: the next few steps need a steady hand and some serious care.
- You’ll be loosening the adhesive that holds the antenna to the front panel, but watch out for the fragile connections attaching it to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along carefully.
Step 16
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: don't push the pick beyond the bottom right corner. You don't want to accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it safe and sound!
- Gently work the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to release the adhesive. Take your time here—patience is key.
Step 17
Carefully slide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. Watch out for the Wi-Fi antenna near the corner—it’s super close and can get cut if the adhesive is released the wrong way.
Just gently slide the pick a smidge out from under the front glass—leave about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip still cozy under there.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your iPad to free up that pesky adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna. You've got this!
Step 18
- After you pass the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" or 75 mm from the right edge, right next to the home button), slide the opening pick all the way back in.
- Gently slide the pick to the right to loosen the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is screwed and connected by a cable at the bottom of the iPad. This step carefully separates the antenna from the front panel so it stays safe when you lift the panel off.
Step 19
Keep the iOpener's heat game strong but short! No more than a minute at a time, and be sure to give it a cool-down period of at least two minutes before the next round.
If the adhesive along the bottom edge has gotten a bit too chilly, just give the iOpener another quick heat-up to warm things back up where you’re working.
- Keep easing the adhesive off the bottom edge of the iPad. When you get to the home button, carefully pull the opening pick out enough to wrap around it, then slide it back in about half an inch (10 mm) to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, make sure to insert the pick no more than 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep in this area. We want to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound!
- Keep gently peeling the adhesive all the way across the bottom edge of the iPad. Steady does it!
- Leave the opening pick in place, tucked under the front glass near the home button to keep things from sticking back together. A little wiggle room is always a good thing!
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave to heat it up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently warm up the adhesive in that area.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, just swap in a fresh iOpener at the top edge and keep it going! And if your iOpener has lost its heat, no worries—just give it another warm-up. You've got this!
- Carefully slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, gently easing it out just enough to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is seriously stubborn and thick. You’ll need a bit of muscle, but take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or scratches—safety first!
- If the pick gets stuck in the glue, try giving it a little roll like in step 9 to help it slide through smoothly.
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Step 23
If the adhesive has warmed up enough, go ahead and remove the iOpener from the iPad to make things easier. But if it's still holding on tight, give the iOpener another quick heat-up and lay it on the left edge while you get to work.
- Keep peeling away that stubborn adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around that top left corner like a pro!
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Step 24
The digitizer cable is located about 2 inches (50 mm) up from the bottom of your iPad. Slide the pick until you’re roughly 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, then stop. You’re almost there, just keep it steady!
- Carefully slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, working your way through the adhesive. It's a bit thinner on this side due to the digitizer running along the entire left edge. Be gentle—keep the pick no deeper than 10 mm (about half an inch) to avoid any damage to the digitizer.
Step 25
Be extra careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about an inch (25 mm) away from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and watch out for this sneaky little cable to avoid any accidental cuts.
- Slide the opening pick that's hanging out from under the bottom edge of your iPad to gently loosen the adhesive at the bottom left corner.
Step 26
Sometimes, the adhesive around the iPad's edge can decide to stick back down. If that happens, just grab a pick and gently slide it under the edge where the front glass is still holding on. Take your time and 'cut' through that adhesive, no rush!
- Grab one of those handy opening picks and gently lift up the bottom right corner of your iPad. Once it's popped up, just use your fingers to hold it steady!
Step 27
Watch out for any leftover adhesive that might still be sticking around. Use an opening pick to carefully slice through any adhesive that's still keeping the front panel in place.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom corners, and gently rotate the front glass away from the body. Take your time, there's no rush!
- As you put everything back together, don't forget to grab a microfiber cloth and a can of compressed air to clean off any dust or fingerprints on the LCD before sealing the glass back in. It’ll make your device look brand new!
Step 28
The bottom left screw is hidden behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge that ribbon cable aside to free up the bottom left screw, and you're one step closer to your goal!
- Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD onto the aluminum frame—time to give those screws a little twist!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is delicate and could snap if you bend it too much. Keep it safe and sound!
- Grab a plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently pop up the right edge of the LCD from the iPad.
- Swing the LCD open like a door on its left side and carefully rest it on top of the front glass panel.
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Step 30
- Grab the tip of a spudger and gently peel back the tape that's hiding the LCD ribbon cable connector. Easy does it!
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Step 31
- Lift up the little flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. It’s like opening a tiny door!
- Now, gently pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board. A simple tug with your fingers or tweezers should do the trick!
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Step 32
- Carefully lift the LCD off the front panel, making sure to avoid touching the front of the screen.
Step 33
If there's any electrical tape hanging around, go ahead and peel it off to free the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. Let's get those wires ready for action!
Step 34
- Gently lift the little flap that holds down the home button ribbon cable’s ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Step 35
- Grab your tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board. Easy does it!
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Step 36
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable out from its snug spot in the back case.
Step 37
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the piece of tape that holds the digitizer ribbon cable snugly against the logic board. You're doing great!
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Step 38
- Lift the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors with a gentle touch.
Step 39
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the digitizer ribbon cable to break that pesky adhesive loose.
- Now, with a steady hand, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its cozy spot on the logic board.
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Step 40
- Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. With the flat end of it, carefully break free the adhesive that's holding the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You're on the right track!
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Step 41
- Gently wiggle and pull the digitizer ribbon cable right out from its snug spot in the aluminum frame using your fingers.
- Lift the front panel off the iPad with care.
Step 42
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel back that pesky electrical tape that's hiding the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It's time to set it free!
- Now, take the tip of your spudger and carefully flip up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors holding the headphone jack cable to the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 43
- Carefully slide the flat end of your spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to gently break the adhesive bond holding it to the rear aluminum frame.
- Firmly pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.
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Step 44
- Gently nudge the front-facing camera ribbon cable aside using the flat edge of a spudger, but be careful not to completely detach it. You've got this!
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Step 45
- Carefully lift and peel away the adhesive tape that’s covering the headphone jack assembly.
Step 46
- With the spudger's tip, gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector.
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Step 47
- Slide the spudger's tip gently under the microphone ribbon cable and give it a little nudge to pop it out of its cozy ZIF connector.
- Take the flat edge of the spudger and smoothly slide the microphone ribbon cable to the side, making room for your next move.
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Step 48
- Gently lift the retaining flap that holds the volume/power button ribbon cable connector in place on the headphone jack assembly board. You've got this!
Step 49
- Carefully pop the volume button ribbon cable out of its ZIF connector.
- Gently lift the volume button ribbon cable upwards and tuck it out of the way.
Step 50
These screws are tilted into the aluminum frame, so grab your screwdriver and align it perfectly with the screw to keep it from getting stripped. You've got this!
- Let's get those screws out of the headphone jack assembly! Here's what you need to remove:
- Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws
- Two 2.2 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws
- Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws
Step 51
- Grasp the ribbon cable attached to the headphone jack assembly and gently lift the assembly up towards the top edge of the device.
Step 52
- Hold onto the headphone jack assembly with one hand and gently pull it out of the iPad, keeping an eye out for any cables that might want to tag along.
Step 53
The two screws at the top are angled into the aluminum frame, so keep your screwdriver nice and straight with each screw to avoid any slip-ups.
- Let's loosen up by removing these screws holding down the power & volume button cable on the aluminum frame:
- Two 5.5 mm Phillips #0 screws
- One 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw
- Two 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws
Step 54
- Peel off the plastic shield that's hiding the volume buttons. Let's give them some air!
Step 55
This screw is angled into the aluminum frame. Make sure you keep your screwdriver lined up perfectly with the screw to avoid any misalignment.
- Unscrew the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screw that secures the volume button frame to the aluminum frame. Let's get that volume ready to roll!
Step 56
- Gently slide the edge of a plastic opening tool under the sleep/wake sensor, but watch out for that delicate cable—it’s a bit of a diva!
- Wiggle the plastic opening tool around the sensor to break the adhesive seal. You're doing great!
Step 57
- Gently slide the spudger tip under the power and volume cables, freeing them from the adhesive's grip.
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Step 58
- Use the tip of your spudger—not the wide edge—to carefully free the adhesive beneath the volume button branch of the ribbon cable.
- Slide the spudger's tip upward toward the top of the iPad, continuing to loosen the adhesive.
- Keeping the spudger tip under the ribbon cable, gently lift the power button out of its aluminum frame socket.
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Step 59
- Gently lift and slide out the power and volume button cable from the iPad. You've got this!
