iPad 4 CDMA Headphone Jack Board Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 59 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out the headphone jack board like a pro.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate is spinning smoothly. If your iOpener gets stuck, it might overheat and start causing trouble. Keep it moving!
Before you dive in, give your microwave a quick clean—no one wants leftover gunk hitching a ride on the iOpener!
- Place the iOpener in the middle of the microwave. This is where the magic happens!
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Step 2
Let's keep it cool! Make sure not to overheat the iOpener during your repair adventure. If it gets too hot, it could pop – and we don't want that! Stick to heating it below 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks like it's got a bit of a belly, steer clear! A swollen iOpener is not a friend to mess with.
If the middle of your iOpener is still too toasty to handle, just hang tight! Keep using it while it cools down a bit before you give it another heat-up. A perfectly heated iOpener will stay warm and cozy for up to 10 minutes.
The time it takes to heat the iOpener will depend on your microwave's wattage, so you might need to adjust accordingly. You'll know it's ready when it's just a tad too hot to handle.
- Warm up the iOpener in the microwave for about thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.
- As you work through the repair, if the iOpener starts to cool off, just pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds to keep things warm and ready.
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Step 3
The iOpener gets pretty toasty, so handle it with care! If it feels too hot, toss on an oven mitt and stay safe.
- Take the iOpener out of the microwave, but be sure to grab it by one of the flat ends to avoid that hot center. Safety first!
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Step 4
Heads up! The iOpener gets super toasty, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe.
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into a pot of boiling water to warm it up.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat—no need to keep it bubbling.
- Carefully dunk your iOpener into the hot water for 2 to 3 minutes, making sure it’s fully submerged.
- Use tongs to fish the iOpener out of the water—hot stuff!
- Give it a good towel dry so it’s ready to go without any drips.
- And just like that, your iOpener is warmed up and ready. Need to heat it again? Just boil the water, turn off the heat, and soak the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 5
- Grab your trusty SIM eject tool or an uncoiled paperclip, and give that SIM tray a gentle push to pop it out. You've got this!
Step 6
- Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy little home and say goodbye to it for now!
- If you're swapping out the SIM card, just give it a little nudge to pop it out of the tray, and then slide in the shiny new one!
Step 7
Pop on some safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any unwanted oops moments.
This will help keep those pesky glass shards in check and add some extra strength when you're prying and lifting the display.
- If your display glass is cracked, keep things safe and avoid any additional mess by taping over the glass before you start working.
- Cover the iPad's screen with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the entire front is sealed up.
- Follow the rest of the guide as usual, but heads up: once the glass is broken, it might keep cracking as you go. You may need to carefully use a metal prying tool to lift the glass pieces out.
Step 8
Heads up! You'll probably be dealing with some broken glass here, so pop on some safety glasses to keep those sneaky shards from causing trouble.
- Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of your iPad, making sure it's snugly in contact with the surface. We want it to feel right at home!
- Give it about 90 seconds to work its magic before you try to pop open that front panel. Patience is key, my friend!
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Step 9
Getting the opening tool’s tip wedged between the glass and plastic might take a bit of muscle—stay cool, be patient, and gently wiggle the tool back and forth until it slips in nicely.
- Check out the tiny gap in the iPad's adhesive ring at the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. This little opening is your entry point.
- Line up your tool with the mute button, then gently slip the tip of a plastic opening tool into the crack between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge it in just enough to start prying the seal open.
Step 10
- Position the tool carefully—right between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass. A little patience here will save you from any headaches later!
Step 11
- With the plastic opening tool snugly positioned between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into that little gap right beside the tool. You're doing great!
Step 12
- Take out that trusty plastic opening tool from your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick further under the front glass, going about half an inch deep. You've got this!
Step 13
- As you carefully loosen the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, pop the iOpener back in the microwave to warm it up again, then place it neatly along the bottom edge to keep things toasty.
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Step 14
The adhesive is super strong, so you might need to put in a bit of elbow grease. Take it slow and steady!
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from beneath the front glass, gently tug it out just a smidge. While using the pick this deep won’t cause any harm, it might leave some sticky adhesive leftovers on the LCD. Keep that in mind as you work your magic!
- While the iOpener is warming up the bottom edge, let's kick things off by tackling the adhesive on the right edge of the iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the side of the iPad, peeling away the adhesive as you go along.
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Step 15
You might need to slide the heated iOpener back along the right edge of the iPad as you work to loosen the adhesive. How long the device has cooled off while you’ve been working will affect this step.
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, no worries! Just 'roll' the pick gently along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff.
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Step 16
- Before you pop that first pick into the bottom corner of your iPad, sneak a second one under the right edge of the front glass to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
- Heat up the iOpener again, and then gently slide it to the top edge of the iPad.
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Step 17
The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad with screws and a cable. Make sure to take extra care here—one wrong move and the antenna could be in trouble! Proceed gently to avoid any mishaps.
- These next steps are a bit tricky, so take your time and be extra careful.
- You’ll need to gently detach the adhesive that’s holding the antenna in place on the front panel. It’s a delicate job, as you don’t want to damage the parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Go slow, and follow the steps closely to avoid any mishaps.
Step 18
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: make sure not to slide the pick past the bottom right corner. You wouldn't want to accidentally mess with the Wi-Fi antenna, right? Keep it cool and steady!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive holding it in place.
Step 19
Take extra care while sliding the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna hides just around the corner and can easily be damaged if the adhesive is released the wrong way. Stay gentle and steady here!
Don’t yank the pick all the way out from under the front glass—just wiggle it out a smidge so about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays tucked underneath.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, loosening the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna. Take your time—this part’s all about precision!
Step 20
- Once you've navigated past the Wi-Fi antenna (about 3" (75 mm) from the right edge or just next to the home button), gently slide your opening pick back in to its full depth.
- Now, give that pick a little slide to the right, freeing the adhesive that's been keeping the Wi-Fi antenna cozy with the front glass.
- Remember, the antenna is fastened to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is crucial as it safely disconnects the antenna from the front panel, so when you lift that panel off, the antenna stays intact and happy.
Step 21
Keep the iOpener's heat game strong but not too hot! Heat it for a minute max and then give it a cool-off period of at least two minutes before the next round.
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool along the bottom edge, it's time to give that iOpener a little heat-up dance to warm things up where you're working.
- Keep sliding that opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, carefully pulling it out enough to get around the home button. Once you’re past the home button, pop the pick back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep and keep going.
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Step 22
When working on iPad 4 models, slide your pick in only up to 1/2 inch (10 mm) here to keep that home button ribbon cable safe and sound.
- Keep peeling away that sticky stuff all along the bottom edge of the iPad like you're on a mission!
- Pop that opening pick right under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out there.
Step 23
- Pop that iOpener into the microwave for a quick heat-up, then place it on the left edge of your iPad. This will help get that adhesive nice and warm, so it’s ready to be tackled.
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Step 24
If your adhesive has decided to take a little too long to cool off, just swap out the iOpener along the top edge and keep on working. If the iOpener itself has cooled down too much, give it a little reheating love.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, easing it out a bit as you navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is pretty stubborn, so you might need to apply some muscle. Just take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or scratches on you or your iPad.
- If your pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try "rolling" it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is warm enough, gently lift the iOpener off the iPad for easy access. But if it’s still holding on tight, just reheat the iOpener and place it along the left edge as you continue working. Take it slow, and don’t worry—this is all part of the process.
- Peel back the adhesive along the top edge of your iPad and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner. Easy does it—keep that pick moving smoothly!
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Step 26
The digitizer cable is hanging out about 2 inches (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Once you’re around 2.25 inches (60 mm) from the bottom, it's time to stop sliding the pick. Keep it gentle, and you’re on the right track!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left side of the iPad, easing off that adhesive as you go. This area’s got a thin strip of adhesive, thanks to the digitizer running along the whole edge. Just make sure you don’t push the pick too deep (no more than 10mm), or you might mess with the digitizer. Take your time, and you’ll do great!
Step 27
Be super careful, the bottom of that digitizer cable is just about 1" (25 mm) away from the iPad's bottom. Take your time and tread lightly—let's not accidentally cut that cable!
- Keep that opening pick tucked under the bottom edge of your iPad and gently loosen the adhesive near the bottom left corner.
Step 28
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad decides to stick back down like it’s playing hard to get. When that happens, carefully slide a pick under the edge where the front glass is still holding tight and gently slice through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab one of your opening picks and carefully wedge it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, then lift it up and hold on tight with your fingers.
Step 29
Watch out for any leftover adhesive still hanging around! Use an opening pick to gently slice through any sticky spots that might be keeping the front panel in place.
- Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners and gently twist that front glass away from the device. You've got this!
- As you put everything back together, don't forget to use a microfiber cloth and a blast of compressed air to whisk away any pesky dust or fingerprints from the LCD before sealing it up. A clean screen is a happy screen!
Step 30
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge the home button ribbon cable out of the way so you can get that screw out without a fuss.
- Unscrew the four tiny 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD onto the aluminum frame—time to get those little guys out of the way!
Step 31
Handle the LCD with care! The ribbon cable is delicate and could snap if you bend it too much.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or a spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You've got this!
- Now, give that LCD a little twist along its left edge and carefully lay it down on the front glass panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 32
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift that piece of tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector. You've got this!
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Step 33
- Lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector with a gentle flick of your fingers.
- With a bit of finesse, use your fingers or some tweezers to carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable from its cozy home on the logic board.
- If the LCD screen decides to play hard to get and doesn't light up after reattaching the ZIF connector, you might need to give your iPad a little pep talk. Hold down the power button and home button together for at least ten seconds until that sweet Apple logo appears. You've got this!
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Step 34
- Carefully lift the LCD off the front panel, but keep your hands clear of the screen itself. It’s like a gentle lift, not a yank, so take your time!
Step 35
If you've got it, go ahead and peel away the electrical tape that's keeping the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable under wraps. Time to let them breathe!
Step 36
- Gently lift the flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Take your time and be careful – it’ll give you access to what you need!
Step 37
- Grab your tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.
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Step 38
- Carefully unplug the home button ribbon cable from its snug little spot in the rear case. A gentle tug should do the trick!
Step 39
- Grab your spudger and gently use the tip to lift the tape that’s holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place on the logic board. Easy does it!
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Step 40
- Gently lift the little flap on each of the digitizer ribbon ZIF connectors—think of it like opening a tiny trapdoor for your cables.
Step 41
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to loosen up the adhesive holding the digitizer ribbon cable in place. Just a little wiggle should do the trick!
- Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its slots on the logic board. Keep it steady to avoid any damage.
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Step 42
- Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully break free the adhesive that's holding the cable snug against the rear aluminum case. You've got this!
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Step 43
- Gently use your fingers to wiggle the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
- Lift off the front panel from your iPad with care.
Step 44
- Peel back the electrical tape covering the headphone jack assembly cable connector and set it aside for later.
- Use the spudger tip to gently flip up the retaining flap on both of the ZIF connectors holding the headphone jack cable in place on the logic board.
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Step 45
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack cable to break the adhesive bond keeping it stuck to the rear aluminum frame.
- Carefully pull the headphone jack cable straight out of its connector on the logic board. Easy peasy!
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Step 46
- Gently peel back the tape covering the SIM board cable ZIF connector. Easy does it!
- Flip up the little retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector. It's like opening a secret compartment.
- Using the tip of your trusty spudger, carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out from its socket on the logic board. Take your time, this is the delicate part.
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Step 47
- Unscrew the three 1.75 mm Phillips #00 screws that hold the SIM board to the aluminum frame — steady hands, you got this!
Step 48
As you gently maneuver the headphone jack assembly cable aside, remember to take it easy on the headphone jack itself—yanking too hard might just send it packing!
- While keeping the headphone jack assembly cable out of the way, gently lift the SIM board out of the iPad.
Step 49
- Gently peel away that pesky adhesive tape hiding the headphone jack assembly. You got this!
Step 50
- Unscrew the lone 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screw that’s holding the camera cable onto the headphone jack assembly—time to set that connection free!
Step 51
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to pop the front-facing camera off its socket on the headphone jack assembly.
- Keep the spudger in place and slide it to the right to loosen the adhesive holding down the camera cable.
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Step 52
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector. You've got this!
- Now, slide the tip of the spudger beneath the microphone ribbon cable and pop it right out of the ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
- With a smooth motion, glide the spudger to the left to break the adhesive that's keeping the microphone ribbon cable snug against the headphone jack assembly. You're on a roll!
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Step 53
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift the antenna connector cable right out of its socket on the headphone jack assembly board.
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Step 54
- Gently lift the flap holding the volume/power button ribbon cable in place on the headphone jack assembly board. Take your time, it's not going anywhere!
- Carefully detach the volume button ribbon cable from its ZIF connector. Don't rush, we got this!
Step 55
These screws are set at an angle into the aluminum frame. Keep your screwdriver perfectly aligned with each screw to avoid any frustrating stripping mishaps.
- Let's get rolling! First up, you'll want to take out these screws from the headphone jack assembly:
- Five 2.6 mm Phillips #0 screws—easy peasy!
- Next, grab your tools for two 2.2 mm Wide Head Phillips #00 screws!
- And finally, don't forget the two 2.6 mm Phillips #00 screws—you're almost there!
Step 56
- Gently grip the ribbon cable of the headphone jack assembly and give it a little tug, pulling it straight down along the iPad's side, towards the bottom of the device. You've got this!
Step 57
- Firmly grab the headphone jack assembly with both hands and gently lift it out of the iPad, keeping an eye on any sneaky cables that might be in the way.
Step 58
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the rear camera connector located beneath the headphone jack assembly and lift it off its socket with a little flair.
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Step 59
- The headphone jack board is still hanging out, waiting for its turn to shine. Let's get it out of there!
