iPad 4 GSM Front Panel Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 49 Steps
Heads up: this guide covers swapping out a plain front panel from start to finish. If you’re working with a Front Panel Assembly instead, pause before yanking that home button off your old panel, and just follow the steps in reverse to pop in your new assembly.
Step 1
For carousel microwaves: Check that the plate spins smoothly. If your iOpener gets stuck, it could overheat and cause some serious burnouts. Keep it moving for smooth sailing!
Before you get started, give your microwave a quick clean. Nobody wants leftover grime hitching a ride on the iOpener!
- Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave to get it warmed up and ready to work its magic.
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Step 2
Keep the iOpener nice and chill during your repair – don’t overheat it! Too hot and it might pop. Keep it below 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks a little puffy, give it a break – don’t touch it!
If the iOpener is still too toasty to handle, just hang tight and let it cool down a bit before giving it another go. When it's properly heated, it should stay warm for about 10 minutes.
Depending on how powerful your microwave is, you might need a little more or less time. The iOpener should be just about too hot to handle – you want it to be toasty, not sizzling.
- Pop the iOpener in the microwave for about 30 seconds and get it nice and toasty.
- As you work your magic, keep an eye on the iOpener and reheat it every 30 seconds as it cools down—just a quick zap in the microwave and you're good to go!
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Step 3
The iOpener can get pretty hot, so handle it with care. If it's feeling a little too toasty, grab an oven mitt to keep things cool.
- Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave by grabbing one of the two flat ends—steer clear of the hot center to keep your fingers happy.
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Step 4
Heads up: the iOpener gets super hot, so make sure to grab it only by the end tabs to keep your fingers safe and sound.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat your iOpener by carefully placing it in boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to completely cover your iOpener.
- Turn up the heat and bring the water to a boil, then switch off the heat.
- Now, carefully place the iOpener in the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Just make sure it's fully submerged in the water.
- Once it’s heated, use some tongs to grab the iOpener from the water. No burns here, please!
- Dry it off with a towel, making sure it’s all nice and dry.
- And that’s it! Your iOpener is good to go. If you ever need to reheat it, just bring the water to a boil, switch off the heat, and let the iOpener chill in the water for another 2-3 minutes. Need help? You can always schedule a repair.
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Step 5
Pop on some safety glasses to keep those peepers safe, and handle the LCD screen gently to avoid any oops moments.
This will keep the glass shards in check and maintain the structure while you carefully pry and lift the display.
- If your display glass is cracked, keep it under control and avoid any accidental cuts during the repair by taping it up.
- Cover the iPad's display with overlapping strips of clear packing tape until the whole screen is shielded.
- Stick with the guide for the rest of the steps. However, once the glass is cracked, it might keep breaking, so be ready to use a metal prying tool to gently lift out the pieces.
Step 6
Heads up! You might be dealing with broken glass here, so it's a good idea to rock some safety glasses to keep those little shards from flying your way. Better safe than sorry!
- Place the iOpener flat on the right side of the iPad, giving it a smooth and even press so it makes solid contact with the surface of the device.
- Let the iOpener rest on the iPad for about 90 seconds before trying to open the front panel. Patience here pays off!
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Step 7
Getting the tip of your opening tool wedged between the glass and plastic might take a little muscle. Stay cool and patient—gently wiggle the tool back and forth until it slips in smoothly.
- There's a tiny gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner, about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) down from the top. Let’s make use of this little opening.
- Line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just nudge the very tip in, enough to create a small opening.
Step 8
- Carefully slide your tool right in between the plastic display bezel and the front glass panel—make sure it’s in the perfect spot to avoid any hiccups!
Step 9
- Keep the tip of your plastic opening tool snugly tucked between the front glass and plastic bezel, then slide a plastic opening pick right next to it to gently ease apart the pieces.
Step 10
- Gently remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad and slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—aim for around 0.5 inches. Take your time, but don’t be afraid to get a little cozy with it.
Step 11
- As you work on loosening the adhesive along the right side of the iPad, go ahead and warm up the iOpener again, then set it back on the bottom edge to keep things nice and toasty.
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Step 12
This adhesive is seriously tough stuff, so you might need to bring out some muscle. Take it slow and steady!
If you can spot the opening pick just beneath the front glass, gently pull it out a little bit. While it's totally safe to use the pick at this depth, be careful—adhesive residue might end up on the LCD.
- While the bottom edge is getting some warmth from the iOpener, start loosening the adhesive along the right side of your iPad.
- Gently slide the opening pick down the edge, easing the adhesive free as you go.
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Step 13
You might need to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad while you’re peeling off the adhesive. How long the iPad has had to cool down will decide if it needs a little reheating magic.
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, just roll it gently along the edge of the iPad to keep loosening that stubborn glue.
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Step 14
- Before you pop that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slip a second pick right under the right edge of the front glass to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
- Give that iOpener a quick reheat, then move it up to the top edge of your iPad. You're almost there!
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Step 15
The Wi-Fi antenna is snugly attached to the bottom right edge of the iPad's rear case with screws and a cable. Since the antenna's orientation is a bit tricky, take your time and be extra careful! A small slip-up here could cause some lasting damage to the antenna, and we'd rather avoid that, right?
- Heads up: the next steps call for some serious care and attention.
- You’ll need to carefully free the adhesive holding the antenna to the front panel without messing up the delicate connections attaching it to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow along closely.
Step 16
Be careful not to slide the pick too far into the bottom right corner. Going too deep might mess with the Wi-Fi antenna. Keep it cool and take it easy!
- Gently slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to peel back the adhesive. Take it slow and steady—you've got this!
Step 17
- Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, working your way across to release the sticky adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna. Nice and easy, no rush!
Take it slow and steady as you guide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna sits pretty close to the corner and can easily get cut if the adhesive isn't released just right. A little caution goes a long way here!
Don't yank the pick all the way out from under the front glass—just gently pull it a bit so that about 1/8" (3 mm) of the tip stays nestled under the glass. That way, you're still in control, but not fully letting go!
Step 18
- Once you’ve passed the Wi-Fi antenna (it’s about 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right near the home button), go ahead and slide that opening pick back in all the way.
- Now, gently slide the pick to the right and release the adhesive holding the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
- The antenna is secured to the bottom of the iPad with screws and a cable. This step is crucial to safely detach the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that it stays intact when you remove the panel. No damage here!
Step 19
- Keep working that adhesive along the bottom of the iPad, and gently pull the opening pick out far enough to wrap around the home button. Once you've passed it, slide the pick back in about 1/2 inch (10 mm) deep to stay on track.
Keep your iOpener heating session short—just a minute at a time, and then give it a cool-down break for at least two minutes before you heat it up again. This little pause helps keep things running smoothly!
If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, just give the iOpener a quick reheat to warm up the adhesive where you're working. This should get things back on track.
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Step 20
For iPad 4 models, gently insert the pick about 1/2 inch (10 mm) into this area. Go slow—this will help you avoid any accidental damage to that home button ribbon cable. Take your time, it’s worth it!
- Keep sliding that adhesive remover tool all along the bottom edge of your iPad like a pro.
- Let the opening pick chill just beneath the front glass near the home button to keep things ready for the next move.
Step 21
- Pop the iOpener back in the microwave for a quick warm-up, then place it on the left edge of the iPad to gently heat up that stubborn adhesive.
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Step 22
If the adhesive has cooled down too much, pop the iOpener back on the top edge and keep going. If the iOpener itself has lost its heat, just give it a quick reheat and you’re good to go.
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, easing it out just enough to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
- Heads up: the adhesive here is seriously tough, so you might need to use a bit of muscle. Take it slow and steady to avoid any slips or scrapes on you or your iPad.
- If the pick starts to get stuck in the adhesive, try "rolling" it as demonstrated in step 9 to keep things moving smoothly.
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Step 23
If the adhesive feels warm and ready, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad to make things easier. But if it’s still sticking like a stubborn sticker, pop the iOpener back in the microwave and place it on the left edge while you keep going.
- Keep peeling back the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and gently slide your opening pick around the top left corner like a pro.
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Step 24
The digitizer cable sits about 2" (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Once you slide the pick in, stop when you're about 2.25" (60 mm) from the bottom. Nice and easy, keep that pick smooth!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the left edge of your iPad. The adhesive is a little thinner here because of the digitizer, so be mindful. Keep the pick shallow, no deeper than about 1/2 inch (10 mm), to avoid accidentally damaging the digitizer.
Step 25
Be super careful here! The bottom of the digitizer cable is hanging out just about an inch (25 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. Take your time and work gently to avoid cutting this cable. You've got this!
- Use the opening pick tucked under the bottom edge of the iPad to gently loosen the adhesive around the bottom left corner. A little patience goes a long way here!
Step 26
Sometimes the adhesive around the edge of the iPad likes to stick back down. If that happens, grab a pick and gently slide it under the edge where the front glass is still holding on, then carefully 'cut' through the adhesive to free it up.
- Grab one of your trusty opening picks, slide it under the bottom right corner of the iPad, and gently lift it up so you can get a good grip with your fingers.
Step 27
Watch out for any sticky bits hanging on! Use your opening pick to carefully slice through any adhesive still clinging to the front panel.
- Grab the iPad firmly by the top and bottom right corners, then carefully flip the front glass away from the device.
- When putting it back together, give the LCD a good once-over with a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to get rid of any dust or fingerprints before snapping the glass back on.
Step 28
That bottom left screw is playing hide and seek behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently slide the ribbon cable out of the way so you can grab that sneaky screw and remove it.
- Grab your trusty screwdriver and remove the four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws holding the LCD to the aluminum frame. It’s a small step, but it’ll make a big difference in the process!
Step 29
Handle the LCD with care! The ribbon cable is super delicate and might snap if you bend it too much.
- Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. Easy does it!
- Now, rotate the LCD along its left edge and carefully set it down on the front glass panel. You're almost there!
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Step 30
- Grab the tip of your spudger and gently peel back the tape covering the LCD ribbon cable connector. Take your time, it's a small move but an important one!
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Step 31
- Gently lift up the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
- Now, carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board using your fingers or tweezers.
- If the LCD screen doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, try a quick restart! Hold down the power and home buttons together for about ten seconds until you see the Apple logo. If you're still stuck, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 32
- Carefully lift the LCD off the front panel—just don’t touch the front of the screen to keep it looking fresh!
Step 33
If there's any electrical tape covering the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, or home button ribbon cable, carefully peel it away. It’s just a little obstacle in the way of your repair journey!
Step 34
- Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector.
Step 35
- Grab your trusty tweezers and carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out from its socket on the logic board.
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Step 36
- Gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable out of its snug spot in the rear case. It's a bit of a tight fit, but no worries, a little patience goes a long way!
Step 37
- Grab your spudger and gently lift that piece of tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. Easy does it!
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Step 38
- Gently lift the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors for the digitizer ribbon cable. Take it slow, and make sure those flaps stay intact!
Step 39
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to wiggle and loosen the sticky adhesive hiding under the digitizer ribbon cable.
- Carefully pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out from its connectors on the logic board—no side-to-side shimmy needed!
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Step 40
- Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and slide the flat end of a spudger underneath to loosen the sticky adhesive holding the cable to the back aluminum case.
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Step 41
- Gently grab the digitizer ribbon cable with your fingers and carefully pull it out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
- Now, let's go ahead and take the front panel off the iPad. A little wiggle and it should come right off!
Step 42
Remember, we don’t want to make the iOpener too hot to handle! After using it, give it a breather for at least two minutes before reheating. Keep it cool, and your repair will be smooth sailing!
The home button assembly is stuck to the front panel with some adhesive. Warming things up a bit with an iOpener to loosen the glue is a smart move.
- Heat up the iOpener in the microwave for one minute on the highest setting (or just thirty seconds if you’re rocking the newer gel-filled iOpener).
- Set the warm iOpener right over the home button at the front edge of the display to get things ready.
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Step 43
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable off the front panel, taking your time to avoid any snags.
Step 44
- Slide the plastic opening tool gently under the right side of the home button assembly and give it a little lift to break free the adhesive holding it down.
- Repeat the same smooth move on the left side to loosen up that adhesive as well.
- Carefully lift the home button mount away from the front panel, like peeling back a sticker but with a bit more finesse.
Step 45
- Gently slide the edge of your plastic opening tool under the home button bracket. Careful not to pry too hard!
- Now, glide the tool along the retaining spring bracket to break the adhesive's grip. You’ve got this!
- Lift the home button with its bracket off the front panel. Easy does it!
Step 46
Heads up! Don’t let the iOpener get too toasty during the repair. Give it a chill break for at least two minutes before heating it up again.
The camera bracket is secured to the front panel with adhesive, so you might need a little extra help loosening it up. Grab an iOpener to soften that sticky stuff—it'll make the whole process smoother.
- Start by following the iOpener heating instructions from the iOpener section at the beginning of this guide. It's easy, just give it a quick read to get everything lined up.
- Now, place the iOpener right over the front-facing camera, aligning it with the top edge of your display. This will help the heating pad do its job and get you closer to a perfect repair!
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Step 47
The camera bracket will wiggle about 2 mm to the right or left, depending on which way you nudge it.
- Gently nudge the camera bracket off the sticky adhesive holding it to the front panel using the flat end of your trusty spudger.
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Step 48
- Gently lift the camera bracket off the front panel and set it aside.
Step 49
- To put your device back together, just follow these steps in reverse order. When it’s time to stick the front panel back on, use our iPad 4 GSM Front Panel Adhesive strips guide for a clean, secure fit. If things get tricky, remember you can always schedule a repair!
