iPad 5 LTE Logic Board Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 77 Steps
Get ready to tackle the adventure of replacing the logic board in your iPad 5 LTE! Just a heads up, swapping out the logic board means you'll be waving goodbye to all your data, and yes, that includes your beloved Touch ID. Keep in mind that some of the visuals in this guide are from the Wi-Fi model, so the insides might look a tad different from your LTE version. But no worries! The steps are the same for both models—except where we point out any differences. Let's dive in and make this repair happen!
Step 1
- Warm up an iOpener and press it against the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Let that heat do its thing!
Tools Used
Step 2
- While you let that adhesive do its thing, keep an eye on these areas—they’re a bit touchy when it comes to prying:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, our handy-dandy tool designed to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not rolling with the Anti-Clamp, feel free to skip ahead three steps for a different method.
Need a hand with the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide for all the juicy details.
If your iPad's surface is feeling a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, just slap on some tape to create a more textured surface.
- Give that blue handle a little tug backward to get those Anti-Clamp arms ready for action!
- Nestle your iPad on something soft so it sits snugly between the suction cups.
- Place the suction cups around the midpoint of the left edge—one on top and the other on the bottom, just chilling there.
- Keep a steady hand on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp and give that top cup a firm press to create a mighty suction!
Step 4
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to lock those arms in place!
- Now, twist the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees or until you see those suction cups start to stretch out.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups and make sure they’re in sync! If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a tad and realign those arms like a pro.
Step 5
Turn no more than half a twist at a time, then take a chill minute to let the Anti-Clamp and patience do their magic.
For all the nitty-gritty on wielding a hair dryer like a pro, check out this handy guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't making the gap you need, feel free to give it some extra warmth and turn that handle clockwise for a half turn.
- Take a breather for about a minute to let that adhesive loosen up and create a little gap for you.
- If your screen isn't warming up enough, a hair dryer can be your best buddy—just give the left edge of the iPad a little love.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has done its magic and created a decent gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Feel free to skip the next step.
Step 6
If your screen is sporting some serious cracks, try giving it a little love with a layer of clear packing tape – it might just help the suction cup stick better. Or, if you're feeling adventurous, go for some super-strong tape instead of the suction cup. And if that doesn't do the trick, a dab of superglue on the suction cup might just be your secret weapon to tackle that broken display!
- Once the screen is feeling comfortably warm to the touch, grab a suction handle and gently place it near the left edge, as close to the border as possible.
- Now, with the suction handle, carefully lift the screen just enough to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slip an opening pick into that gap between the digitizer and frame, and gently wiggle it in. Keep it steady!
Tools Used
Step 7
No stress if the opening pick peeks through the digitizer — just slide it out gently. The LCD should stay safe, but leaving adhesive behind can make things sticky and tricky to clean later.
- Pop in a second opening pick where you just made some space. You've got this!
- Gently slide that pick over to the bottom-left corner of your device to break free from the adhesive. You're on a roll!
- Keep that pick in the bottom-left corner to hold off the adhesive from sticking back together. Nice job!
Step 8
- If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently rolling it along the side of the iPad to keep working through that stubborn adhesive.
Step 9
- Gently slide the first opening pick up towards the top-left corner to loosen the adhesive without breaking a sweat.
- Keep that pick right there in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and reseal itself.
Step 10
- Warm up your iOpener and give the top edge of your device a nice two-minute heat session. You'll want to make sure it's good and warm before moving on!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently work the pick around the top-left corner of your device to loosen up the adhesive. Take it slow, and let the pick do the magic!
Step 12
Keep your pick away from the front camera lens—sliding over it could cause some damage. The next steps will guide you on how to steer clear of that!
- Gently slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just shy of the front camera to keep things safe and sound.
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is snugly sitting between the digitizer and the frame. You've got this!
- Slide that pick above the front camera to break free the adhesive. Nice and easy!
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before moving on. You're doing great!
Step 14
- Slide the pick back in and guide it gently toward the top-right corner to fully loosen that stubborn top adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the top-right corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneakily stick back together.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and press it against the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen that stubborn adhesive like a pro.
Step 17
The display cables are hanging out around the halfway mark from the bottom of your iPad. So, when you're sliding, make sure to stop when you're about three inches from the bottom – we wouldn't want you to go too far and accidentally throw a party down there!
- Pop in a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly to the center of the iPad's right edge.
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and press it against the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to spin the pick all the way around the corner; you wouldn't want to accidentally mess up the antenna!
- Gently slide the pick over to the bottom-left corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive.
- Keep the pick right there in the bottom-left corner before moving on to the next step.
Step 20
Just a friendly reminder: slide that pick toward the home button, not away! Going the wrong way could tangle with the antenna and cause some trouble.
If you need to slide the pick over this part again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner to keep things moving smoothly.
- Slip a fresh opening pick into the gap you just made along the iPad’s bottom edge.
- Gently glide the pick past the antenna, stopping just before you reach the home button.
- Keep the pick resting to the left of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 21
Be careful to insert the pick only up to 1 mm, so we don't accidentally give the right antenna a bad hair day!
- Slide an opening pick into the little gap you just made. Go on, it’s like a secret passage!
- Now, gently slide that pick beneath the home button and glide it towards the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be sneaking between the digitizer and the frame—no need for the whole pick to join the party!
Step 22
Slide the pick towards the home button, not away from it. Trust us, your antenna will thank you!
If you have to slide the pick over this part again, just pop it out and slide it back in starting from the bottom-right corner. Easy peasy!
- Pop that pick back in and slide it over toward the home button to fully break free the stubborn bottom adhesive. You've got this!
- Once you've done that, let the pick chill on the right side of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm so it’s easy to work with, and carefully separate all the adhesive using a pick. Don’t hesitate to pause and reheat if you need to!
If you're feeling a bit of a workout while trying to pry it open, just reheat those edges and glide along with your trusty opening pick.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad. This will lift the digitizer just enough to break the last bits of adhesive. Easy does it, and you're one step closer to getting inside!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards, giving a little extra tug along the right side to help separate the adhesive on the iPad. Take your time, it's like peeling a sticker but with more precision!
Step 26
- As you hold the digitizer steady, gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to break free the last bit of adhesive. You've got this!
Step 27
- After you’ve loosened all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When putting things back together, wipe off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and from the digitizer if you’re reusing it—using isopropyl alcohol. Then swap in new adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything snug.
- Keep an eye on those delicate display cables while reassembling. Make sure they’re neatly folded under the LCD to avoid any damage.
Step 28
- Peel away any tape hiding the LCD screws so you can get to them.
Step 29
- Unscrew the four Phillips screws holding the LCD in place:
- Three screws measuring 4.0 mm
- One screw measuring 4.8 mm
Step 30
Don't try to yank off the LCD just yet! It's still hanging on by a few cables near the home button. Focus on lifting from the front-facing camera end.
Take it slow and watch out for those cables when you flip the display. A gentle touch goes a long way!
Place the LCD gently on a soft, clean, lint-free surface. Treat it like it’s the crown jewel it is—handle with care!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the LCD out of its cozy spot just enough so you can get a good grip with your fingers.
- Now, flip that iPad LCD like you’re turning the pages of a captivating book, lifting it near the camera and swinging it over to the home button side of the rear case.
- Carefully lay the LCD face down so you can get a good look at those display cables. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 31
Feel free to use a battery blocker tool to keep things steady. Just be gentle—don’t shove it under the connector with too much force, or it might throw a fit!
Craft a battery blocker from a playing card and gently slide it under the logic board connector to unplug the battery like a pro.
- Unscrew the lone 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding the battery connector to the logic board in place.
- Keep that blocker right where it is to make sure the battery connector leads don’t touch anything until you’re done with your repair.
Step 32
- Take out those three 1.4 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the display cable bracket in place. You've got this!
Step 33
Be careful with the display cable connector—it’s snugly stuck to the bottom of the bracket! Avoid shoving the spudger too far under there, or you might accidentally give that connector a little too much love and damage it.
- Carefully slide the flat end of your spudger under the display cable bracket and lift it straight up off the logic board — nice and easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 34
- Carefully pop off the LCD to get things moving.
Step 35
- Peel away any tape hiding the home button ribbon cable connector so you can get to it easily.
Step 36
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to flip that little tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upwards. You've got this!
- Now, with a steady hand, carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 37
Be gentle and only pry at the connectors themselves—tugging on the socket attached to the logic board is a no-go if you want to keep your iPad happy and healthy.
- Gently lift the two digitizer cable connectors straight out of their sockets using the flat end of a spudger or your trusty fingernail. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 38
If the home button ribbon cable is sticking to the iPad’s rear case, don’t try to rush it. Gently coax it away from the case with a pair of tweezers, and then you’ll be able to remove the front panel assembly with ease.
The insulation is nearly invisible to the naked eye, and it's not the same as the foam dust barrier strips you might see in many iPads. Just a little extra detail to keep an eye on during your repair!
- Take off the front panel assembly.
- If your new display starts acting up with random or phantom touches, don’t worry! You can fix this by placing a super thin insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, on the marked spots on the back of the panel. Panels that come prepped usually have this covered, so adding tape might not be needed.
- Without this insulation, parts of the digitizer might short out against other components, which causes those pesky touch glitches.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Grab your tweezers and carefully lift off the tape that's hiding the SIM board cable connector on the logic board.
Tools Used
Step 40
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the SIM board cable connector. It's like giving it a little nudge to say, 'Hey, let’s get this party started!'
- Now, carefully slide the SIM board cable straight out of its ZIF connector. Smooth moves only, we want this to be as easy as pie!
Tools Used
Step 41
- Let's get those screws out! Start by removing the screws that are holding the upper component cable bracket in place:
- Two Phillips screws that are 2.0 mm in size
- Three Phillips screws that are 1.4 mm in size
Step 42
- Grab those tweezers and gently start peeling back the tape that's holding down the upper component cable bracket. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 43
- Gently lift the upper component cable bracket off the iPad—keep the tape pieces stuck to the bracket to make putting it back a breeze.
Step 44
Alright, here’s the deal: as you navigate these steps, you'll be disconnecting a bunch of press connectors from their cozy spots on the logic board. When you’re prying those cables up, remember to focus on the connector itself—give it a gentle lift!—and leave that socket alone. You've got this!
- Gently pry up the front-facing camera connector from its spot on the logic board using the flat end of your trusty spudger.
Tools Used
Step 45
- Gently slide an opening pick beneath the front-facing camera cable to loosen the adhesive that's keeping it snug and secure.
- With a spudger, give that camera cable a little nudge upwards to uncover a hidden ribbon cable connector waiting just beneath.
Tools Used
Step 46
- Gently wiggle the flat end of your spudger to unplug the headphone jack ribbon cable from its spot on the logic board.
- Carefully nudge this next ribbon cable out of the way to uncover more connectors lurking underneath.
Tools Used
Step 47
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed tip to gently detach the microphone cable connector from its cozy spot on the logic board. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say, 'Time to move on!'
- Next up, let’s keep that spudger in action! With the pointed tip, carefully disengage the GPS antenna cable, which is just to the right of the microphone cable connector. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 48
- Gently take the flat tip of your trusty spudger and wiggle it under the rear-facing camera cable. With a little finesse, pry it straight up from its cozy socket on the logic board. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 49
- Gently lift the antenna interconnect cable straight up from its cozy spot on the logic board to disconnect it. You've got this!
Step 50
- Gently pry up the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable from its spot on the logic board using the flat end of a spudger.
Tools Used
Step 51
- Gently pry up the main cellular antenna connector from its cozy little spot on the logic board using the flat end of a spudger. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 52
- Unscrew the 1.4 mm Phillips screw that’s holding down the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable bracket. You've got this!
Step 53
- Take the flat end of your trusty spudger and carefully lift the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable bracket up and out of the way—gentle does it!
- That little S-shaped interconnect cable is still hanging on under the bracket with a press connector. If it pops loose by accident, no worries—just press it back into place and you're good to go.
Tools Used
Step 54
- Peel away the black tape that's hiding the upper button assembly cable connector. It's a small but important step on your path to repair success!
Step 55
- Gently use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the little flap holding down the upper button assembly cable connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 56
This cable is pretty snug, so you’ll need to put some muscle into it. Make sure to pull it straight back—no tugging upward against the connector!
- Gently grab those tweezers and give the upper button assembly ribbon cable a little tug. Pull it straight out of its connector like you're unveiling a surprise gift!
Tools Used
Step 57
These sockets are a bit sensitive. Be sure to apply pressure directly upwards, so you don't accidentally snap the socket off the board.
- Gently lift the left and right Wi-Fi antenna cables straight up from their sockets at the lower end of the logic board. You've got this!
Step 58
Gently peel up the tape, but avoid tugging on the antenna cable—it's delicate and could tear easily.
It might help to fold the SIM board cable back a bit to make the tape easier to reach—just be careful not to damage it. If you need a little more space, feel free to remove the SIM board.
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the tape that's holding down the right Wi-Fi antenna cable close to the SIM board. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 59
- Go ahead and repeat the last step to lift a second piece of tape right below the first one, holding down the left Wi-Fi antenna cable.
- If those two pieces of tape decided to team up and peel off together, no worries! Gently separate them before moving on.
Step 60
- Stick four strips of tape to hold down the left Wi-Fi antenna near the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Gently lift the tape away from the back case.
- Move the antenna cable out of your way by folding it carefully.
Step 61
Handle those tweezers with care—make sure to gently grab and peel the tape, avoiding the cable underneath. You got this!
A kink in the speaker cable is making it tricky to lift the tape from the end.
- Grab the tape right below the speaker and peel it downwards, moving away from the edge of the case like a pro.
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Step 62
As you gently peel the tape off the right speaker ribbon cable, grab a spudger to keep the cable in check and avoid any accidental tears. Stay smooth, you've got this!
- Gently peel the tape back toward the home button to reveal the speaker cable connector underneath.
Tools Used
Step 63
- Keep peeling that tape up until you have enough wiggle room in the left speaker cable to disconnect it. It's like a dance—just a little more and you'll be free!
- But hey, don’t go full-on tape removal mode! Leaving a bit still attached to the rear case will make it a breeze to put everything back together later.
Step 64
- Gently use the pointy end of your spudger to lift the little flap holding down the left speaker cable connector.
- Carefully pull the left speaker cable straight out from its socket to disconnect it.
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Step 65
- Gently use the pointed end of your spudger to lift the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector.
- Carefully pull the right speaker cable straight out from its socket to disconnect it.
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Step 66
- First things first, let’s get those two 3.3 mm Phillips screws out of the way that are holding the Lightning connector to the back of the case. You've got this!
Step 67
Next up, let's heat things up a bit! Grab an iOpener and apply it to the back of the iPad to help loosen up that sticky adhesive holding the logic board in place.
As you work your way around, place the iOpener at the marked spots and give it at least a minute in each spot. This will make sure the heat soaks through and softens that stubborn adhesive. Take your time, this is all about patience!
- The adhesive comes as seven strips of black tape—keep this step handy while heating and prying so you know exactly where each strip is hiding.
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Step 68
- Heat up your iOpener and gently place it over the bottom edge of your iPad. This will help soften the adhesive holding the Lightning port ribbon cable to the rear case.
- Give it a couple of minutes for the adhesive to loosen up, then you can move on to the next step.
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Step 69
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the Lightning connector cable to loosen the adhesive holding it to the rear case—smooth and steady wins the race.
- If the left speaker cable is in the way, carefully nudge it aside to get a clear path to the Lightning connector cable.
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Step 70
- Place a warm iOpener on the top edge of your iPad and let it chill there for a few minutes. This will help loosen up the adhesive that's keeping the logic board snug as a bug!
Tools Used
Step 71
As you move through the next steps, gently test the adhesive holding the logic board in place to see if it's ready to release. If it feels stubborn, no worries—just reheat the iOpener and give it another go on the back of the rear case.
Make sure to slide the pick gently over the antenna cable that runs along the length of the battery. You're doing great!
- Gently slide an opening pick underneath the logic board, right between the front-facing camera and the battery. Take it easy; we don't want any accidents!
- Now, carefully glide the guitar pick toward the front-facing camera connector. Stop once you hit the bend in the logic board. No rush, just go slow and steady.
Tools Used
Step 72
- Warm up your iOpener again and place it lengthwise right on top of the rear case, directly over the logic board.
- Give it a couple of minutes to let that adhesive loosen its grip, then take off the iOpener and move on to the next step.
Tools Used
Step 73
- Carefully slide an opening pick under the logic board at the corner of the big EMI shield.
- Gently push the pick upwards until you hit the battery connector, breaking up the sticky adhesive holding the logic board down.
Step 74
Hey there, just a friendly reminder: when you're sliding that card under the logic board, take it easy! We want to keep those battery pins safe and sound. If the logic board seems stubborn, a little heat from your iOpener can do wonders for the adhesive underneath.
As you work your way through the adhesive around the edges of the logic board, watch out for the upper button assembly ribbon cable you disconnected in Step 60. Position the card just like the picture shows—precision is key!
- Let's kick things off by gently removing that battery isolation pick. You're doing great!
- Now, grab a trusty plastic card and slip it right under the logic board at the battery connector. You got this!
- Slide that card all the way underneath the logic board, carefully separating the adhesive along the outer edge. Keep going, you're almost there!
Tools Used
Step 75
- Slide a plastic card under the bottom part of the logic board, right below the display connectors and Wi-Fi module, to gently loosen things up.
Step 76
- Gently pull the Lightning connector straight out from its spot in the rear case—like it's saying goodbye!
Step 77
- Carefully lift the logic board from its bottom edge and take it out.
- When putting the logic board back in, double-check that every cable connector you unplugged earlier is neatly routed over the top of the board before you continue reassembling.
