iPad 5 Wi-Fi Left Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 47 Steps
Take extra care when isolating the battery with a battery blocker—safety first, but no need to stress!
Get ready to tackle the replacement of the left-hand antenna in your iPad 5 Wi-Fi! Just a friendly heads-up: when you're isolating the battery with a battery blocker, please handle it with care. Those battery contacts can be a bit delicate and could cause some serious trouble for your logic board if damaged. If you decide to jump into the guide without isolating the battery, try to steer clear of metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like when you're tackling those pesky screws). We want to avoid any accidental battery shorts or mishaps with sensitive circuit components. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the left edge of your device.
Tools Used
Step 2
- As you let the adhesive take its time to loosen up, keep an eye on these delicate areas that could get a little sensitive if you're too rough with your prying tools:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps introduce the Anti-Clamp, a nifty tool we've designed to make opening your device a breeze. If you're not using it, just skip ahead three steps for a different method.
Need a detailed walkthrough on using the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide for all the info you need.
If your iPad is being a little too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to get a grip, simply tape it up to give it a better hold.
- Give that blue handle a good tug back to let the Anti-Clamp's arms stretch out and get ready for action.
- Set your iPad on something flat and sturdy so it sits nice and even between those suction cups.
- Place the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one should go up top, and the other down below.
- Keep a steady grip on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp while you press down firmly on the top cup to create a solid seal.
Step 4
- Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms in place. Nice and steady!
- Twist the handle clockwise 360 degrees, or until you feel the suction cups start to stretch. You got this!
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to slip, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms. Easy fix!
Step 5
Turn it slowly—just half a twist at a time—and give it a minute to chill between spins. Let the Anti-Clamp and a little patience do the heavy lifting!
Need some tips on using a hair dryer? We've got you covered with a handy guide right here.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't making a big enough gap, crank up the heat a bit more and give the handle a half turn clockwise.
- Give it about a minute to let the adhesive chill out and create a little gap to work with.
- If your screen feels more like a block of ice than a hot plate, try warming up the left edge of the iPad with a hair dryer.
- When the Anti-Clamp has done its job and opened up a nice gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Just skip the next step and keep rolling.
Step 6
If your screen is looking like it survived a rock concert, don't worry! You can give it a fighting chance by slapping on some clear packing tape to help the suction cup stick. If you're feeling adventurous, super strong tape can work wonders too. And if you're in a real bind, a little bit of superglue on the suction cup might just do the trick to keep it in place.
- When your screen feels pleasantly warm, grab a suction handle and stick it to the left edge of the screen, keeping it as close to the edge as you can.
- Gently pull the screen with the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that gap you've just made between the digitizer and the frame.
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to sweat if you spot the opening pick poking through the digitizer — just give it a gentle tug and pull it out. The LCD screen should stay safe and sound, but be mindful that you might leave behind some sticky adhesive that's a bit tricky to clean up.
- Pop a second opening pick into the gap you've made, like sliding a secret note into a crack.
- Gently glide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of your device, and watch the adhesive loosen its grip.
- Keep the pick in the bottom-left corner to keep the adhesive from getting cozy again and sealing up.
Step 8
- If the opening pick gets caught in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep peeling that adhesive away. Easy does it!
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick towards the top-left corner to loosen up that adhesive like a pro.
- Keep the pick anchored in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and seal itself.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the top edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things ready.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently rotate the pick around the top-left corner of your device, just like you're peeling back the edges of a stubborn sticker, to carefully break the adhesive seal.
Step 12
Keep the pick away from the front camera lens while sliding it around—no one wants a scratched selfie! The next steps will guide you on how to dodge that lens like a pro.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, but remember to halt just shy of that front camera. We wouldn’t want to disturb its beauty!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out, just enough so the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick carefully above the front camera to start breaking the adhesive's grip.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before moving on to the next step.
Step 14
- Pop that pick back in and slide it up toward the top-right corner of your device to fully break free from the adhesive's grasp.
- Keep that pick in place at the top-right corner to make sure the adhesive doesn't rejoin the party.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right side of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and pliable.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently work the pick around the top-right corner of your device to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.
Step 17
The display cables are hiding about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. Stop sliding when you hit around three inches from the bottom—no need to go further.
- Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it along the iPad’s right edge, aiming for the center. Nice and steady—no rush!
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 19
Avoid swinging that pick all the way around the corner, or you might give the antenna a little surprise party it didn't ask for.
- Gently glide the bottom-left pick into the bottom-left corner to break free from that sticky adhesive.
- Keep the pick snugly in the bottom-left corner before you leap into the next step!
Step 20
Slide the pick gently toward the home button—avoid pushing it the other way to keep the antenna safe and sound.
If you need to glide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and slide it back in at the bottom-left corner. Easy peasy!
- Slide a brand new opening pick into that little gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, stopping just shy of the home button.
- Make sure to leave the pick snugly to the left of the home button before you carry on.
Step 21
Be super careful and only slide that pick in about 1 mm—let's keep that right antenna safe and sound!
- Slide an opening pick into the newly created gap.
- Next, gently maneuver the pick beneath the home button and glide it towards the bottom-right corner, ensuring that only the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Remember to slide that pick toward the home button, not away from it! Going the wrong way could do a number on the antenna, and we definitely don’t want that. Stay on track and keep your device happy!
If you need to slide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner to keep things smooth.
- Pop that pick back in and give it a little slide toward the home button to fully break free from the bottom adhesive. You've got this!
- Now, just let that pick chill to the right of the home button while you move on to the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the right edge of your device for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here—patience is key! Make sure the adhesive is nice and soft, and remember, using a pick to separate it is your best friend. If it feels tough, don’t hesitate to reheat it and give it another go. You're doing great!
If you're feeling some serious resistance, no worries! Just heat up those edges again and gently work your way along them with an opening pick.
- Gently twist the opening picks at the left corners of your iPad to give the digitizer a little lift, helping to break free the last bits of that pesky adhesive. You're doing great!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer upward to loosen the adhesive along the right side of the iPad a bit more.
Step 26
- Keep a steady hand on the digitizer and gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully break through the last stubborn adhesive.
Step 27
- After you've carefully separated all the adhesive, open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When putting things back together, be sure to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you plan to reuse it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, stick on fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep everything snug.
- Keep an eye on those delicate display cables while reassembling. Fold them neatly underneath the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
- Peel away any tape that's hiding those sneaky LCD screws.
Step 29
- Let's get those Phillips screws out of the way to free the LCD.
- Take out the three 4.0 mm screws.
- Don't forget the one 4.8 mm screw too!
Step 30
Hold your horses! Don't go yanking that LCD off just yet. It's still cozily attached to the iPad with a few cables at the home button side. So, just lift from the front-facing camera end with care.
Be gentle as you flip the display over and keep an eye on those LCD cables. They deserve some love too!
Gently place the LCD on a soft, clean, lint-free surface to keep it safe and sound.
- Take the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently pry the LCD from its cozy little spot, just enough to get a grip with your fingers.
- Now, give that iPad LCD a little flip like you're turning the pages of your favorite book, lifting it near the camera and flipping it over towards the home button end of the rear case.
- Carefully lay the LCD down on its face so you can easily access those display cables.
Tools Used
Step 31
Handle the battery blocker with care! Those battery contacts are super delicate, and a little slip could cause damage that’s tough to fix.
To keep things short-circuit free, slide in a battery blocker or a tweaked opening pick to safely disconnect the battery.
If that battery blocker is being a bit stubborn under the logic board, a trusty playing card can do the trick to unplug the battery.
- Unscrew the 2.3 mm Phillips screw holding the battery connector to the logic board. Nice and easy, no need to rush.
- Slide the battery blocker underneath the battery connector area of the logic board and leave it there while you continue working. It’s like a little helper, keeping things in place while you focus on the next step.
Tools Used
Step 32
- Unscrew the three 1.4 mm Phillips screws holding the display cable bracket in place. You've got this!
Step 33
Heads up! The display cable connector is stuck to the bottom of the bracket, so don’t go shoving your spudger too far underneath or you might accidentally mess up the connector.
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 34
- Time to say goodbye to that LCD! Let's get it out of there.
Step 35
- Peel off any tape that's hiding the home button ribbon cable connector. Time to free it up so we can keep going!
Step 36
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the little tab on the home button ribbon cable’s ZIF connector.
- Carefully slide the home button ribbon cable straight out from the connector without bending or twisting.
Tools Used
Step 37
When you're prying open your iPad, make sure to focus on the connectors, not the socket on the logic board. You don’t want to accidentally cause any damage, so go slow and steady!
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger or even your fingernail to lift the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets with care.
Tools Used
Step 38
- Gently lift the home button ribbon cable away from the adhesive keeping it snug on the rear case. Take your time and be careful; you've got this!
Step 39
The insulation is stealthy, not something you’ll spot with the naked eye. It’s different from the foam dust barrier strips you might see in many iPads, so don’t confuse them!
- Start by carefully removing the front panel assembly. Take your time and be gentle with it.
- When putting everything back together, give the inside of the front panel a quick wipe to remove any dust or fingerprints. This will keep your display looking fresh and clear.
- If you notice any strange 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches after installing your new display, don't worry—it's a common issue. To fix it, just add a super thin layer of insulating tape (like Kapton tape) to the areas on the back of the panel. Most panels come with the right insulation already, so this step might not be necessary.
- Without the right insulation, certain parts of the digitizer can accidentally touch other components, leading to weird touch problems. The insulation prevents this from happening.
Step 40
- Take your spudger and gently slide it under the right antenna cable, near the edge of the iPad. A little lift should do the trick to disconnect the antenna cable connector. Nice and easy!
Tools Used
Step 41
- You'll spot two big strips of tape wrapped around the right antenna cable, hiding the tape on the left antenna cable underneath.
- Gently lift the tape off the rear case.
Step 42
- Gently slide a spudger beneath the left antenna cable, specifically the connector that's furthest from the edge of the iPad. Give it a little lift to disconnect that antenna cable connector with ease!
Tools Used
Step 43
- There are six pieces of tape holding the left antenna cable snugly against the rear case. Let's get that cable free!
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift each piece of tape, releasing the antenna cable bit by bit. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 44
The antenna cable has a little bracket clipped on, stuck to the speaker enclosure with some adhesive. To get that antenna out, you’ll need to carefully cut through the glue holding it in place.
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket. You're doing great!
- Now, glide that pick to the right to slice through the adhesive like a pro.
- Give the bracket a little nudge away from the speaker to free it from the tape below. You've got this!
Step 45
- Let's get those Phillips #000 screws out of the way:
- First up, we need to tackle two tiny 1.4 mm screws.
- And don’t forget the lone 2.3 mm screw waiting for its turn!
Step 46
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly. It's like giving your device a little hug!
- Carefully glide the spudger towards the home button recess to slice through the foam adhesive holding the antenna in place. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 47
- Put everything back together by following these steps in reverse—easy peasy!
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