iPad 6 Wi-Fi Logic Board Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 95 Steps
Heads up! The logic board is best buddies with your iPad's home button. So, if you decide to swap out the logic board, you'll be saying goodbye to that sweet Touch ID feature. Keep that in mind as you tackle this repair!
Follow this guide to swap out a busted logic board in your iPad 6 Wi-Fi. Keep in mind, the logic board is linked to your iPad's home button, so swapping it means your Touch ID will wave goodbye.
Step 1
- Warm up your trusty iOpener and gently place it on the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes. Let's get things nice and toasty!
Tools Used
Step 2
- As the adhesive starts to soften, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that don’t like being poked:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
Get ready to meet the Anti-Clamp, your new best buddy for opening up your device! These next three steps show you how to use it and simplify the opening process. If you're not equipped with an Anti-Clamp, no worries! Just skip ahead three steps for a different approach.
Need a refresher on how to use the Anti-Clamp? No problem! Check out this handy guide.
If your iPad feels a little too slick for the Anti-Clamp's grip, just whip out some tape to give it a little extra traction. You've got this!
- Slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms.
- Set something under your iPad so it sits nice and level between the suction cups.
- Place the suction cups close to the middle of the left edge—one near the top, one near the bottom.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and press down firmly on the top cup to create suction.
Step 4
- Slide the blue handle forward to lock those arms in place.
- Rotate the handle clockwise a full 360 degrees or until the suction cups start to stretch out.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay lined up. If they start to drift out of sync, just loosen them a bit, realign the arms, and you’re good to go.
Step 5
Take it easy, and don't twist more than half a turn at a time. Give it a minute to breathe between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do their magic for you!
For a full walkthrough on how to use a hair dryer, take a look at this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t making enough space, just warm up the area a bit more and turn the handle clockwise half a turn.
- Give it a minute to let the adhesive do its thing and start forming a gap for you.
- Not feeling enough heat on the screen? Grab a hair dryer and gently warm up the left edge of your iPad.
- Once there's enough space from the Anti-Clamp, slide an opening pick underneath the digitizer.
- You can skip the next step, no worries.
Step 6
If your display is shattered like a glass puzzle, a layer of clear packing tape can help the suction cup stick better. Alternatively, you could use some really strong tape instead of that suction cup. And if things get tough, a little superglue can help fasten the suction cup right onto the broken screen. You've got this!
- When the screen feels warm, grab your trusty suction handle and stick it right on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Gently pull up with the suction handle to pop open a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into that gap to help separate the digitizer from the frame.
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if you see the opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just give it a gentle pull! Your LCD screen should be just fine, but be mindful that you might leave some sticky adhesive behind that could be a bit tricky to clean up.
- Pop a second opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Gently slide that pick down toward the bottom-left corner to break up the adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the bottom-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back together.
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets a bit too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation going strong!
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick to the top-left corner of the device to break that adhesive seal like a pro.
- Keep that pick in the top-left corner to make sure the adhesive doesn't decide to seal up again on you.
Step 10
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the top edge of your device. It's like a spa day for your gadget!
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Step 11
- Twist that pick around the top-left corner of your device to break free the adhesive holding it tight.
Step 12
Be careful not to slide the pick over the front camera; we definitely don't want to accidentally scratch that lens! Follow these steps to keep your device safe and sound.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your device, pausing just shy of the front camera. You've got this!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is snugly nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Carefully slide the pick just above the front camera to break free the adhesive holding it down.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before you move on to the next step.
Step 14
- Slide the pick back in and gently nudge it up towards the top-right corner to fully loosen that stubborn top adhesive.
- Keep the pick lodged in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from snapping back together.
Step 15
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two minutes on the right edge of your device. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 16
- Twist that pick around the top-right corner of your device to break free from the adhesive's grip. You've got this!
Step 17
The display cables are hanging out around halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. When you hit about three inches from the bottom, it's time to stop sliding!
- Slide your trusty opening pick into the groove and shimmy it right to the center of the iPad's right edge.
Step 18
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the bottom edge of your device for a good two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 19
Avoid giving the pick a full spin around the corner—it's a sneaky way to cause some antenna trouble!
- Gently glide that pick into the bottom-left corner to break free the adhesive—you're doing great!
- Once you're there, keep the pick in place before moving on to the next fun step.
Step 20
Slide the pick gently toward the home button only—going the other way might mess up the antenna, and we want to keep that signal strong!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this area again, simply pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. You've got this!
- Slide a new opening pick into the gap you just made along the bottom edge of the iPad.
- Carefully glide the pick over the antenna, stopping right before you reach the home button.
- Let the pick rest just to the left of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 21
Be careful and only slide that pick in about 1 mm to keep the right antenna safe and sound!
- Wiggle an opening pick into that lovely little gap you created. Give it a gentle push!
- Now, slide that pick beneath the home button and glide it toward the bottom-right corner—just let the tip have a cozy space between the digitizer and the frame. You're doing great!
Step 22
Just remember to slide the pick towards the home button, not away! Going the wrong way could lead to some antenna trouble. Keep it cool and steady!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner. Easy peasy!
- Pick it up again and slide it towards the home button to fully separate that stubborn bottom adhesive.
- Leave the pick hanging out just to the right of the home button before moving on.
Step 23
- Warm up an iOpener and chill it right on the device's right edge for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it slow and steady here. Warm up that adhesive so it’s nice and soft, and gently work your way around with a pick to separate it all. Don’t worry about pausing to reheat if you need to. Patience is key!
If you hit some serious resistance, give the edges another warm-up and gently work your opening pick around them.
- Gently twist the two opening picks into the left corners of your iPad to give the digitizer a little lift, while also nudging that stubborn adhesive apart. You've got this!
Step 25
- Gently lift up the left edge of the digitizer to help peel away the sticky adhesive along the right side of your iPad.
Step 26
- Keep the digitizer steady and gently slide an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully loosen the last bit of adhesive holding them together.
Step 27
- Once you've successfully peeled away all that sticky adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it down parallel to your iPad. Easy peasy!
- As you put everything back together, don’t forget to clean off any leftover adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're re-using it—using some isopropyl alcohol. For a fresh start, consider replacing the adhesive with our handy adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
- Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly! Make sure they’re tucked in nicely beneath the LCD screen to avoid any mishaps. You've got this!
Step 28
- Peel away any tape that's hiding those sneaky LCD screws.
Step 29
- Unscrew those four Phillips #00 4.3 mm screws holding the LCD in place. You've got this!
Step 30
Hold up! Don’t yank the LCD all the way off just yet — it’s still hanging out with a few cables by the home button side. Ease it up gently from the front-facing camera end only.
Take it slow and steady while flipping the display over, keeping a sharp eye on those delicate LCD cables.
Gently place the LCD down on a soft, clean surface that won't leave any fluff behind.
- Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger under the LCD just enough to lift it out of its slot so you can grab it with your fingers. Heads up—there might be some glue around the screw holes that you’ll need to carefully slice through with a knife.
- Flip the iPad’s LCD over like turning a page in a book, starting near the camera and folding it over the home button side of the back case.
- Set the LCD face down to get easy access to the display cables.
Tools Used
Step 31
Check out these pics to see what the battery connector looks like tucked under the logic board. Use them as your go-to guide while you carefully unplug the battery.
Heads up: The battery connector has these cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery’s contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll want to slide a thin, flexible tool between the contacts to safely disconnect the battery without any drama.
Step 32
To avoid any short-circuit drama, grab a battery isolation pick and gently disconnect the battery. It's like giving it a little 'see ya later!'
When it comes to the battery blocker, remember: no need to muscle it under the connector! If it’s putting up a fight, a playing card can step in as a trusty sidekick to help slide that battery out.
The battery blocker or playing card should glide right under the logic board like it’s on a smooth surface. Once it’s in there, it should chill at about a 15-degree angle. Easy peasy!
- Unscrew that pesky 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw that's holding the battery connector to the logic board. It's just one little guy, so it should be a breeze!
- Now, slide the battery blocker right under the battery connector at a stylish 35 degree angle. You've got this!
- Keep the battery blocker in place while you tackle the next steps. You're doing great!
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Step 33
- Take out the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws holding down the display cable bracket.
Step 34
Be careful when using the spudger! The display cable connector is stuck to the bottom of the bracket. Don't shove the spudger too far under, or you might accidentally damage the connector. Take it slow and steady!
- Gently wiggle that spudger's flat end to lift the display cable bracket straight up off the logic board. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 35
- Carefully lift off the LCD to get it out of the way—like giving your screen a little vacation!
Step 36
- Gently peel away any tape that's covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
Step 37
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift the little tab on the home button ribbon cable’s ZIF connector upwards.
- Carefully slide the home button ribbon cable straight out of its ZIF connector—easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 38
Be gentle and only pry the connectors themselves—avoid levering on the logic board’s socket to keep your iPad happy and safe.
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger or even your fingernail to pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets—no sudden moves!
- When putting things back together, double-check that these connectors are fully seated in their sockets to avoid any pesky display glitches.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Gently peel the home button ribbon cable away from the adhesive that's keeping it snug against the rear case.
Step 40
The insulation is sneaky and doesn't show up to the naked eye, plus it's not the same as those foam dust barrier strips you might spot on many iPads.
- Start by carefully taking off the front panel assembly. It's time to get up close and personal with your device!
- If you find that your new display is acting a little quirky with 'ghost' or 'phantom' touch inputs, don’t worry! Adding a sliver of ultra-thin insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted sections on the back of the panel can fix that right up. Just a heads up—most of our panels come fully equipped with the insulation they need, so you might not have to add any tape at all.
- Remember, without the right insulation, those eyes (aka the digitizer) can get a little too chummy with other components, leading to touch hiccups. Let's keep things smooth!
Step 41
- Slide a spudger gently beneath the antenna cable that's nearest to the edge of your iPad and give it a little lift to pop that antenna cable connector free. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 42
- Two big strips of tape are holding the right antenna cable snug against the rear case.
- Carefully lift the tape away from the rear case.
- As you peel the tape, keep it stuck to the antenna cable to make putting things back together a breeze.
Step 43
The antenna cable is securely connected to the speaker with a small metal bracket. This bracket is snugly attached to the antenna and glued onto the speaker casing, keeping everything in place.
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket.
- Guide the pick towards the home button to slice through that sticky adhesive.
- Push the bracket away from the speaker until it pops free from the tape below.
Step 44
- Let's get this party started by taking out those Phillips #000 screws holding the right antenna in place:
- First up, remove the one shiny 2.3 mm screw.
- Next, show some love to the two 1.4 mm screws and gently take them out.
Step 45
- Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly. It's like giving them a little personal space!
- Now, glide that spudger toward the home button to break free the foam adhesive that's been holding the antenna in place. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 46
- Gently detach the right antenna from the iPad. Take your time and keep it steady – no rush here!
Step 47
- Slide a spudger under the left antenna cable and gently lift it up to unplug the antenna cable connector.
Tools Used
Step 48
- Five strips of tape are snugly wrapped around the left antenna cable, hiding the right speaker cable connector underneath.
- Gently lift the tape off the rear case—no need to rush, it’s all part of the adventure.
- Carefully fold the antenna cable out of your way so you have clear access for the next step.
Step 49
Watch out for that speaker cable — a little bend can make peeling the tape a bit tricky! Take your time and be gentle.
When using your tweezers, aim to grab just the tape and not the cable underneath. You've got this!
- Grab the tape just below the speaker and gently peel it downward, pulling it away from the edge of the case. Keep it smooth and steady!
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Step 50
- Gently peel the tape toward the home button to reveal the speaker cable connector. Take it slow—this part is like uncovering a hidden treasure.
Step 51
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed end to gently lift the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector. You've got this!
- Now, with a smooth motion, slide that speaker cable right out of its ZIF connector. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 52
- Peel away the tape that's holding the speaker snugly against the rear case. Time to let it breathe!
Step 53
- Gently lift the LCD buffer tape off the back cover, taking your time to avoid any mishaps.
Step 54
- Grab your Phillips #000 screwdriver (2.2 mm size) and carefully unscrew the one holding the speaker in place on the rear case. You got this!
Step 55
- Slide a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove on the speaker housing, right near the corner of the back case.
- Gently pull the speaker downward, away from the case corner, like coaxing a shy little critter out of its nook.
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Step 56
- Grab a trusty spudger and gently coax the speaker out from its snug spot beneath the edge of the rear case.
- Carefully lift out the right speaker from your iPad and give yourself a pat on the back!
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Step 57
- First, let's tackle those three pesky 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws holding the upper component cable bracket in place. Grab your trusty screwdriver and get ready to unscrew your way to success!
Step 58
If you’re working with the Wi-Fi/Cellular version of the iPad, heads up: it looks a bit different and you’ll need to remove two extra screws to get to the parts under this bracket.
- Take off the upper component cable bracket like a pro!
Step 59
- We've got a couple of pieces of tape holding down that left antenna cable to the rear case. Let's give them a little love!
- Gently peel the tape away from the rear case. You've got this!
Step 60
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket. We're just making a little space!
- Now, glide that pick toward the home button to slice through the adhesive like a pro.
- Give the bracket a little push away from the speaker until it pops free from the tape below. You're doing great!
Step 61
- Alright, let’s get our screwdrivers ready! First up, grab your trusty Phillips #000 screwdriver and carefully unscrew these little guys:
- Two tiny screws measuring 1.4 mm
- And one slightly larger screw at 2.3 mm
Step 62
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly, like a ninja sneaking into a secret lair.
- Now, smoothly glide the spudger toward the home button to break that foam adhesive's grip on the antenna. You got this!
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Step 63
- Gently detach the left antenna from your iPad and set it aside. You're doing great!
Step 64
- Peel off the tape that's hiding the connector for the left speaker cable. You've got this!
Step 65
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector. You're doing great!
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Step 66
- Gently slide the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector like you’re easing it into a smooth exit.
Step 67
- Peel away the tape that's holding the speaker in place on the rear case. It should come off smoothly—just take your time!
Step 68
- Unscrew the 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw that’s holding the speaker in place on the rear case. A little twist and you're one step closer to a smooth repair.
Step 69
- Carefully lift the left speaker ribbon cable upwards so it can clear the battery as you slide the speaker enclosure out. You've got this!
Step 70
- Slide a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger into the groove of the speaker housing, right by the corner of the rear case. You've got this!
- Gently pull the speaker down and away from that corner—you're almost there!
Tools Used
Step 71
- Grab that trusty spudger and gently nudge the speaker free from the snug embrace of the rear case's edge.
- Now, carefully lift out the left speaker from your iPad. You've got this!
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Step 72
Lift the connector gently— avoid applying pressure on the socket itself!
- Grab the flat end of your spudger and carefully disconnect the front-facing camera connector from the logic board.
- Gently fold the front-facing camera cable to the side, out of your way.
- There’s a bit of conductive adhesive sticking the gold-colored cable contacts together. Be sure to apply a little pressure to get them back in place during reassembly.
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Step 73
Gently lift only on the connector— steer clear of the socket itself.
- Gently pry up the rear-facing camera connector from the logic board using the flat end of a spudger.
- Carefully fold the rear-facing camera cable out of the way to keep it safe.
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Step 74
Gently lift the connector, not the socket itself. Treat it like a delicate piece of art!
For the newer iPad models, there's a sneaky little tape loop connecting this connector to its socket on the logic board. You’ll need to snip that tape to free the headphone jack.
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to pop the headphone jack connector loose from the logic board.
- Carefully fold the headphone jack cable out of your way to keep things tidy.
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Step 75
Gently pry up just the connector—leave the socket itself alone!
- Grab that trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently detach the microphone cable connector from the logic board. You've got this!
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Step 76
- Peel away any tape hiding the connector for the upper button assembly cable.
Step 77
- Grab that trusty spudger and use its pointed end to lift the retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector. You've got this!
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Step 78
- Gently pull the upper button assembly cable straight out of its ZIF connector. You've got this!
Step 79
To locate those sneaky screws, hold your iPad up vertically and take a peek down at the Lightning port. You've got this!
- Unscrew the two 3.3 mm Phillips #000 screws that are holding the Lightning port in place. You've got this!
Step 80
Next up, we're going to use an iOpener to warm up the back of your iPad, making that sticky adhesive holding the logic board nice and soft.
As you reheat and position the iOpener at the marked spots, give it a good minute to work its magic and melt the adhesive through the rear case.
- The adhesive comes as six pieces of black foam tape—keep this step handy while heating and prying so you know exactly where each piece fits in the puzzle.
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Step 81
No rush here! If you end up leaving the iOpener on the rear case a little too long, just give it another heat-up and reapply. A little extra time won't hurt!
- Warm up your iOpener and place it over the rear-facing camera area of the iPad. Give it a minute or so to work its magic and loosen up that adhesive behind the rear case.
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Step 82
As you dive into the upcoming steps, remember to gently pry at the adhesive that’s holding the logic board snugly in place. Start with a little test to see if it’s feeling a bit soft. If it’s still hanging on tight, give that iOpener another heat-up session and pop it back on the rear case for some extra love.
- Gently slide an opening pick under the logic board, right between the front-facing camera and the battery—nice and easy now.
- Carefully wiggle the pick toward the front-facing camera connector and pause when you hit the bend in the logic board.
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Step 83
- Gently slide an opening pick beneath the logic board, starting from the front-facing camera and gliding over to the rear-facing camera. You've got this!
Step 84
Give the iOpener another minute to chill and work its magic, softening the adhesive holding the rear case in place.
- Warm up the iOpener and give it a cozy spot along the bottom edge of your iPad.
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Step 85
The Lightning connector cable is a little stuck due to some adhesive love from the case. To break free, slide an opening pick gently between the cable and the case. Just remember to be super careful and avoid slicing the Lightning connector cable itself—it's a delicate dance, but you got this!
- Slide an opening pick beneath the Lightning cable where it connects to the logic board.
- Gently maneuver the pick down and around the curve of the cable.
Step 86
Take your time and be gentle. If the opening pick isn’t sliding in smoothly, warm things up a bit more and give it another go. Pushing too hard might cause you to slip and cut the Lightning connector cable — and nobody wants that!
- Keep sliding that trusty opening pick under the cable, but don't go too far—stop right before it does a little bend towards the Lightning connector.
Step 87
- At last, gently ease the opening pick between the battery and the Lightning connector to break free the last bit of adhesive hiding under the cable. You're almost there!
Step 88
- Gently wiggle the Lightning connector and pull it straight out of its snug little home in the back case.
Step 89
Give the iOpener a cozy minute to work its magic and melt that sticky adhesive holding the rear case tight.
- Grab your trusty heated iOpener and lay it on the left side of the rear case, right where the logic board is sticking around. It's time to warm things up a bit!
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Step 90
- Slide a plastic opening tool into the rectangular gap near the top of the logic board, then gently lift the board away from the rear case.
- Keep the opening tool tucked under the logic board as you carefully slide it along the gap to loosen the upper edge from its sticky adhesive grip.
Step 91
Gently raise the edge of the logic board! If you feel it pushing back, take a breather, put down the prying tool, and give the iOpener another moment to work its magic.
- Gently lift the logic board from the lower edge of the rectangular gap, right by the EMI shield. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 92
Be careful not to slice the battery with your opening pick; a punctured battery can be quite a handful! If you feel any resistance, just heat things up a bit and give that iOpener another go.
- Gently slip an opening pick beneath the logic board, finding that sweet spot between it and the battery.
- Work your magic by gliding the pick from the base towards the center of the logic board to break that stubborn adhesive free.
Tools Used
Step 93
- Gently slide the pick along the entire length of the logic board, like a pro navigating a tricky obstacle course.
- Once you've successfully severed the adhesive, delicately lift the battery side of the logic board upward and away from the rear case. You got this!
Step 94
- Gently lift the logic board starting from the side closest to the battery until you can slip an opening pick under the opposite edge.
- Carefully slice through any adhesive securing the outer edge of the logic board to the back case.
Step 95
- Now it's time to put all those pieces back together! Just follow these steps in reverse, and you'll have your device looking good as new in no time. If you run into any tricky bits, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair for a helping hand!
