iPad 8 LTE Left Bluetooth and Wi-Fi Antenna Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 55 Steps
Follow this guide to swap out the left Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna in an iPad 8 LTE model. Heads up: this is for the LTE version only—if you have the Wi-Fi model, check out the separate instructions. Take extra care when disconnecting the battery using a battery blocker, as the contacts are fragile and can be easily bent or broken, causing permanent damage. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, avoid metal tools unless absolutely necessary (like loosening screws) to prevent short circuits and protect delicate components. Some pictures might be from a slightly different model, but don’t worry, they won’t throw you off the track.
Step 1
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy spot on the left edge of your device for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While the adhesive is softening, keep an eye out for these tricky spots that don’t like being poked:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps walk you through using the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we created to make opening your device a breeze. Not using the Anti-Clamp? No worries—just skip ahead three steps for another way to get it done.
For full details on how to work the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface is too slick for the Anti-Clamp to get a grip, slap on some tape to give it a bit of extra hold.
- Gently slide the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.
- Place your iPad on something stable, making sure it sits flat between the suction cups.
- Position the suction cups about halfway down the left edge—one on the top and the other on the bottom.
- Hold the Anti-Clamp steady with one hand and give a firm press on the top suction cup to create a good seal.
Step 4
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to lock those arms in place.
- Now, twist that handle a full 360 degrees or until you feel those cups starting to stretch – it's like a mini workout for your hands!
- Keep an eye on those suction cups; they should stay in perfect harmony. If they start to dance out of alignment, just loosen them a bit and guide those arms back to their happy place.
Step 5
Take it easy and don’t go turning more than half a twist at a time. Give it a minute to breathe between turns—let the Anti-Clamp and some time do their magic.
For a detailed walkthrough on how to wield a hair dryer like a pro, be sure to check out this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't giving you the space you need, just add a little more heat to the spot and give that handle a half turn clockwise. You've got this!
- Hold tight for a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a little gap to work with.
- If the screen isn’t warming up enough, grab a hair dryer and gently heat along the left edge of the iPad to help things along.
- When the Anti-Clamp opens up a nice gap, slide an opening pick under the digitizer to start prying it open.
- Skip the next step.
Step 6
If your display is seriously cracked, a bit of clear packing tape can help the suction cup stick better. If that’s not cutting it, you can go for a stronger tape in place of the suction cup. And if nothing else works, a little superglue on the suction cup can do the trick to attach it to the screen. Just be careful with that glue!
- When the screen feels warm to the touch, grab your trusty suction handle and stick it on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can get.
- Gently lift the screen with the suction handle just enough to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the little gap you've made between the digitizer and the frame.
Tools Used
Step 7
Don't stress if you spot the opening pick poking through the digitizer—just pull it out. The LCD screen should be just fine, though there’s a chance you might leave some sticky residue behind that's a bit of a pain to clean.
- Pop a second opening pick into that lovely gap you just made.
- Gently slide the pick over to the bottom-left corner of the device to break that adhesive seal.
- Keep that pick snugly in the bottom-left corner to ward off any adhesive re-sealing attempts!
Step 8
- If your opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, try gently rolling it along the edge of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation moving smoothly.
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick toward the top-left corner to start loosening that stubborn adhesive.
- Keep the pick wedged in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and seal itself.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of your device for two minutes. Let's get that heat working its magic!
Tools Used
Step 11
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner to loosen that stubborn adhesive.
Step 12
Steer clear of sliding the pick over the front camera; you wouldn't want to accidentally give that lens a makeover! Follow these steps to keep it safe and sound.
- Gently slide that trusty opening pick along the top edge of your device, but hold up just before you hit the front camera. We don't want any accidental selfies!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick above the front camera to break that sticky adhesive seal.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move forward.
Step 14
- Slide that pick back in and glide it over to the top-right corner of your device to totally break free from the adhesive's grip.
- Keep that pick in the top-right corner to make sure the adhesive doesn't decide to rejoin the party.
Step 15
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the right edge of your device.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner to loosen up that stubborn adhesive like a pro.
Step 17
The display cables hang out about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. Once you’re about three inches shy of the bottom, that’s your cue to stop sliding!
- Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it right into the center of the iPad's right edge like a pro!
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it to the bottom edge of your device for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to spin the pick all the way around the corner; it could lead to antenna trouble.
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to break the adhesive seal. You've got this!
- Keep that pick snug in the corner as you gear up for the next step. You're doing great!
Step 20
Slide the pick gently toward the home button—going the other way might mess with the antenna, and we don’t want that!
If you find yourself needing to glide that pick over this area again, go ahead and pull it out, then reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. You've got this!
- Slide a shiny new opening pick into the little gap you just made at the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, but hold up just shy of the home button.
- Make sure to leave the pick to the left of the home button as you move on to the next step.
Step 21
Be careful and only insert the pick up to 1 mm to keep the right antenna safe and sound!
- Slide an opening pick into that little gap you just made. You've got this!
- Gently wiggle the pick under the home button and glide it towards the bottom-right corner. Just the tip should be nestled between the digitizer and the frame. Easy peasy!
Step 22
Make sure to slide the pick only towards the home button—going the other way might give your antenna a sad day!
If you need to glide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and slide it back in at the bottom-right corner.
- Slide the pick back in and gently wiggle it toward the home button to fully loosen that stubborn bottom adhesive.
- Rest the pick just to the right of the home button before moving on to the next step.
Step 23
- Warm up your trusty iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the right edge of your device.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take your time with this step. Make sure the adhesive is nice and warm, soft enough to work with, and that you've carefully separated all of it using a pick. Don’t stress—if you need to, stop and reheat it a bit. Patience pays off!
If you're feeling some extra resistance, don't worry! Just give those edges a little heat and gently work your way along with an opening pick. Take your time and be patient—you're doing great!
- Gently twist the two opening picks in the left corners of your iPad to lift the digitizer just a bit, helping to break free the last stubborn bits of adhesive along the way. Keep it cool and steady, you're doing great!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left side of the digitizer to peel away more of that stubborn adhesive along the right edge of your iPad. Patience is key!
Step 26
- As you hold the digitizer steady, gently slip an opening pick between the two display cables to break free that last bit of adhesive. You've got this!
Step 27
- After carefully loosening all the adhesive, gently open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- When putting everything back together, wipe away any leftover adhesive from the frame—and from the digitizer if you're reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things secure.
- Keep an eye on those delicate display cables as you reassemble; make sure they're neatly folded under the LCD screen to avoid any accidental damage.
Step 28
- Grab some tweezers or just your fingers and gently peel away any tape that’s hiding those LCD screws. Let's get to the good stuff!
Tools Used
Step 29
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the four 4.3mm screws holding the LCD screen in place. Nice and easy, just give it a twist and you'll be good to go!
Step 30
The LCD is gently stuck to the frame, just waiting for a little coaxing.
- Slide a spudger gently between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.
- Carefully nudge the spudger to loosen the adhesive bit by bit.
Tools Used
Step 31
- Now, let's tackle the top-left section of the LCD just like we did before!
Step 32
Hold up! Don’t yank the LCD all the way out yet—it’s still hanging out connected by that sneaky flex cable.
- Grab that trusty spudger and gently nudge the LCD out of its snug little home just enough so you can get a good grip on it with your fingers.
- Now, flip the LCD like you're turning a page in your favorite book, lifting it near the camera and flipping it over toward the home button end of the frame.
- Place the LCD down on a tidy, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily access those display cables.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let's get to work! Unscrew that 2.3 mm-long screw holding the battery connector down to the logic board. You've got this!
Step 34
Check out these pics to get a clear look at the battery connector hiding under the logic board. Keep them handy as a guide while you carefully unplug the battery.
Heads up: the battery connector uses cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery’s contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll want to gently slide a thin, flexible tool between the contacts to pop the battery loose safely.
Step 35
Heads up! When disconnecting the battery with a battery blocker, handle those contacts gently—they’re fragile and can bend or break easily, causing damage you can’t undo.
Make sure the logo on the battery blocker is facing up—no upside down surprises here.
Avoid shoving the battery blocker under the connector with too much muscle. If it’s being stubborn, try sliding a playing card in there to gently disconnect the battery instead.
Ideally, the battery blocker or playing card should slide under the logic board smoothly, without any hiccups. Once in place, it should sit at about a 15-degree angle, just chilling.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector at a cool 35-degree angle, like you're tucking in a cozy blanket.
- Keep that battery blocker in position while you tackle the rest of the repair!
Tools Used
Step 36
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the three 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket. Easy does it!
Step 37
- Grab your trusty tweezers or simply use your fingers to gently lift off the display cable bracket.
Tools Used
Step 38
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect that LCD cable press connector. You've got this!
- When it's time to re-attach those press connectors, just align it carefully and give one side a little push until you hear that satisfying click. Then, do the same for the other side!
- Just a friendly reminder: avoid pressing down in the middle. If things get a bit off-kilter, you might bend the pins, and nobody wants that kind of drama!
Tools Used
Step 39
- Carefully lift off the LCD and lay it screen-side down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to keep it safe and sound.
Step 40
- Grab some tweezers and carefully lift the tape that’s keeping the home button cable ZIF connector under wraps.
Tools Used
Step 41
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail and gently flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 42
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable free from the ZIF connector, pulling it straight out like a pro!
Tools Used
Step 43
Be gentle and only pry on the connectors themselves—avoid poking the socket on the logic board to keep your iPad safe and sound.
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the two digitizer cable press connectors to lift and unplug them without any drama.
Tools Used
Step 44
Be careful not to poke or rip that home button ribbon cable! It's a delicate little guy, and we want to keep it safe and sound.
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the vibration isolator sitting just below the SIM card reader to lift it up.
- Take out the vibration isolator carefully.
Tools Used
Step 45
The cable is held in place with a bit of light adhesive.
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button cable away from the rear case. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 46
Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice away any stubborn adhesive still sticking the front panel assembly to the frame. You've got this!
Just a heads-up! Without the right insulation, those little digitizer areas can accidentally touch other components, leading to some serious touch input drama.
Keep in mind, the insulation is like a ninja—totally invisible and quite different from the foam dust barrier strips you might find on many iPads.
- Take off the front panel assembly carefully.
- If your new display starts acting up with 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches, don’t panic! Adding a super thin layer of insulating tape like Kapton (polyimide) tape to the marked spots on the back of the panel usually does the trick. Replacement digitizers come with this insulation already, so you probably won’t need extra tape.
- When putting everything back together, make sure to scrape off any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Then, clean those sticky spots with high-strength isopropyl alcohol (90% or above) and a lint-free cloth. This preps the surface perfectly for fresh adhesive and helps everything stick like it should.
- Give your iPad a full test to make sure all functions are working, then apply pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using the display adhesive application guide before sealing it up tight.
Step 47
- Gently nudge that little hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector up with the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your trusty fingernail. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 48
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently wiggle that SIM card reader cable right out of the ZIF connector. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 49
There are two antenna cables in this area, but you only need to unplug the one that's farthest from the edge. You've got this!
- Slide the sharp end of a spudger underneath the left antenna cable and gently lift it straight up to disconnect. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 50
Gently grab the antenna cable by its body, not the connector. Tugging on the connector can cause it to break. Treat it like a fragile treasure!
The tape holding down the left antenna cable is snuggled right under the tape keeping the right antenna cable in place. If you're having a bit of a struggle, feel free to disconnect and gently lift up the right antenna cable for some extra wiggle room.
- Gently lift the left antenna cable away from the back casing, giving it a little room to breathe.
Step 51
- Keep peeling that left antenna cable off the rear case, making your way along the bottom edge of the iPad. You're doing great!
Step 53
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and loosen the three screws holding down the right antenna.
- One screw measuring 2.3 mm long
- Two screws each 1.4 mm long
Step 54
The antenna cable is held in place on the speaker by a tiny metal bracket. This bracket is crimped tight to the antenna and stuck firmly to the speaker housing. To get the antenna out, you'll need to carefully cut through the adhesive bonding them together.
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the bracket—easy does it!
- Work the pick toward the charging port, slicing through the adhesive like a pro.
- Nudge the bracket away from the speaker to free it from the tape hiding underneath.
Step 55
- Carefully slide an opening pick between the antenna and the speaker assembly.
- Gently glide the pick under the antenna to slice through the foam adhesive like a champ.
- Grab some tweezers or just your fingers to lift the left antenna out with ease.
