iPad 9 LTE LCD Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 39 Steps
Before you dive in, make sure your iPad’s battery is below 25% to keep things safe and sound!
Ready to swap out the LCD on your iPad 9 LTE? Good news—the glass digitizer and LCD aren’t glued together like on newer iPads or most phones, which makes this a bit less tricky. Heads up: this guide is just for the LTE model. If you have the Wi-Fi version, click here. Before you get started, make sure to drain your battery below 25% to lower the risk of any fire hazards if the battery gets damaged while you work. If your battery looks swollen, take extra care. When it’s time to isolate the battery using a battery blocker, be super gentle—the contacts are delicate and easy to wreck, which could cause permanent damage. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, avoid metal tools unless you really have to (like for screws) to prevent short circuits and harm to sensitive parts. Some images might show a slightly different model, but don’t worry—they won’t throw off the steps. If you hit a tough spot, you can always schedule a repair and get some expert help.
Step 1
First things first, let's give your iPad a little downtime before we dive into the repair. Power it down and get ready to work some magic!
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the left edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to get things nice and toasty.
Tools Used
Step 2
- While the adhesive is softening, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that really don’t like being poked:
- Front camera
- Ambient light sensors
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, a handy gadget we created to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for another way to get the job done.
For full details on how to handle the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface feels too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to grip, try adding some tape to give it a better hold.
- Give that blue handle a little tug back to set the Anti-Clamp's arms free!
- Slide an object under your iPad so it's perfectly aligned between the suction cups.
- Get those suction cups cozy near the center of the left edge—one up top and one down below.
- Keep your hand steady on the bottom of the Anti-Clamp while you give the top cup a firm press to create some suction magic.
Step 4
- Give that blue handle a gentle nudge forward to lock those arms in place!
- Now, twist the handle to the right a full 360 degrees, or until you see those suction cups start to stretch. You've got this!
- Keep an eye on those suction cups to make sure they're staying in sync. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a bit and realign those arms. Easy peasy!
Step 5
Take it easy! Only twist a half turn at a time and chill for a minute in between. Let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do their magic for you.
For a detailed guide on how to wield that hair dryer like a pro, check out this handy guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn't opening up enough space for you, pump up the heat a bit and give that handle a clockwise twist for half a turn.
- Take a quick breather for about a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a nice little gap for you to work with.
- Not feeling enough heat? No worries! A quick pass with a hair dryer along the left edge of your iPad should do the trick.
- Slide the opening pick gently under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp gives you enough space to slip it in.
- Skip ahead to the next step—you're all good to go!
Step 6
Got a seriously cracked screen? Slap on some clear packing tape to give the suction cup a fighting chance to stick. If that’s not cutting it, grab some super strong tape as a backup plan. And hey, if nothing else works, a little superglue can help the suction cup hang tight on that shattered glass.
- Once the screen feels warm to the touch, stick a suction handle onto the left edge of the screen, making sure it’s as close to the edge as you can get.
- Gently lift the screen using the suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide an opening pick into the small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if you can spot the opening pick through the digitizer—just carefully pull it out. The LCD screen should stay safe, but be aware that you might leave some stubborn adhesive behind that’ll need a little extra TLC to clean up.
- Pop in a second opening pick into that sweet little gap you just made.
- Gently slide the pick down towards the bottom-left corner of the iPad to break free from the adhesive's grip.
- Keep the pick in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 8
- If your opening pick is feeling stubborn and stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little roll along the side of the iPad to keep on separating that sticky stuff.
Step 9
- Gently slide the first opening pick up towards the top-left corner of your iPad to break that pesky adhesive seal.
- Keep the pick in the top-left corner to make sure the adhesive doesn't decide to reattach itself. You're doing great!
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and gently press it against the top edge of your iPad for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 11
Just slide that pick in no more than 7mm to keep the ambient light sensor safe and sound. You got this!
- Spin that trusty pick around the top-left corner of the iPad and watch the adhesive break free!
Step 12
Keep your pick away from the front camera lens to avoid any accidental scratches. The next steps will guide you on how to steer clear of it with ease.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, but hold up just before you get to the front camera. You're doing great!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide that pick above the front camera to break free the adhesive like a pro.
- Keep the pick cozy near the right side of the front camera before you dive into the next step.
Step 14
- Slide the pick back in there and shimmy it toward the top-right corner of the iPad to fully break free that pesky top adhesive.
- Keep the pick cozy in the top-right corner to stop that adhesive from trying to seal things up again.
Step 15
- Warm up that iOpener and pop it on the right edge of the iPad for two minutes. It's like giving your device a cozy spa treatment!
Tools Used
Step 16
Keep that pick to a maximum of 4 mm to protect the ambient light sensor from any mishaps!
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.
Step 17
The display cables are hiding around the halfway point from the bottom of your iPad. Once you’ve slid about three inches up from the bottom, stop! You’re right where you need to be.
- Pop in a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly to the center of the iPad's right side.
Step 18
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute session on the bottom edge of the iPad. This will soften things up just right for the next step!
Tools Used
Step 19
Be careful not to spin that pick all the way around the corner—your antenna might not appreciate the wild ride.
The third image gives you a sneak peek at the bottom-left antenna hiding beneath the digitizer. Keep your eyes peeled!
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner and watch that adhesive separate like magic!
- Keep that pick snug in the corner as you prep for the next step.
Step 20
Slide the pick gently toward the home button only—sliding it the other way might mess up the antenna, and nobody wants that!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner to keep things smooth.
- Pop in a fresh opening pick where you made that nifty little gap at the bottom of your iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, but stop just shy of the home button.
- Make sure to leave the pick hanging out to the left of the home button before you move on.
Step 21
- Take that trusty opening pick of yours and gently slide it into the new gap you've just created!
- Now, with finesse, glide the pick underneath the home button and nudge it toward the bottom-right corner. Just make sure only the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Slide the pick gently toward the home button—never away from it—to keep that antenna safe and sound.
If you need to glide the pick over this area again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner to keep things smooth.
- Give that pick a little wiggle and slide it toward the home button to fully break free that stubborn bottom adhesive. You got this!
- Keep that pick chillin' to the right of the home button as we carry on with the next steps!
Step 23
- Warm up your iOpener and let it cozy up to the right edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy with this step. Make sure to give yourself plenty of time, keep that adhesive nice and hot, and ensure you’ve separated all of it with your trusty opening pick. Remember, it's totally cool to pause and reheat if needed.
If you're feeling some resistance, don't sweat it! Just reheat those edges a bit and gently work your way along them with the opening pick.
- Gently twist those opening picks in the left corners of the iPad to give the digitizer a little lift. You'll be separating the last bits of adhesive, so consider it a bonding farewell!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help loosen the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad. Keep it steady and take your time; you've got this!
Step 26
Handle those display cables with care, your trusty opening pick is here to help, but let’s keep those cables safe and sound!
- As you hold the digitizer steady, gently maneuver an opening pick between the two display cables to break free the last bit of adhesive holding them together.
Step 27
- Once you've peeled off all that sticky adhesive, gently swing open the digitizer like a charming little book and lay it flat alongside your iPad.
- When it's time to put everything back together, give that leftover adhesive on the frame—and on the digitizer if you're bringing it back to life—a nice scrub with some isopropyl alcohol. And don’t forget to replace that adhesive with our trusty adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.
- As you reassemble your iPad, keep a watchful eye on those delicate display cables. They like to be tucked away snugly beneath the LCD screen—let's keep them safe and sound!
Step 28
- Grab your trusty tweezers or just use your fingers to peel away any tape that's hiding those sneaky LCD screws.
Tools Used
Step 29
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and get ready to unscrew! It's time to loosen those four 4.2 mm screws holding your LCD screen in place. Let's do this!
Tools Used
Step 30
The LCD is gently stuck to the frame.
- Gently slide a spudger into the gap between the frame and the top-right corner of the LCD.
- Carefully pry with the spudger to ease apart the adhesive. Take your time; patience is key!
Tools Used
Step 31
- Now, let's tackle the top-left corner of the LCD just like we did before!
Step 32
Hold your horses! Don't go all out and try to take the LCD off just yet—it's still hanging on by a flex cable.
- Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the LCD just enough to lift it out of its slot so you can get a good grip with your fingers.
- Carefully flip the LCD open like turning a page in a book, lifting near the camera and folding it over towards the home button side of the frame.
- Set the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to easily reach the display cables without any hassle.
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and give that 2.3 mm-long screw a twist to release the battery connector from the logic board. You're on your way to a successful repair!
Step 34
Check out these photos to see what the battery connector looks like under the logic board. Keep them handy as you carefully disconnect the battery.
Notice those clever cantilever springs on the logic board that push against the battery contact pads? Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll want to slide something thin and flexible between those contact points to safely disconnect the battery.
Step 35
Handle the battery blocker with care! Those battery contacts are pretty delicate—bend or break them, and you’re in for some serious damage that can’t be undone.
Make sure the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is up and ready to go!
No need to muscle the battery blocker under the connector—take it easy! If it’s being stubborn, a playing card can help you nudge the battery loose instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should slide right under the logic board with ease. After it’s in, aim for a cozy 15-degree angle.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector, angling it at about 35 degrees – just like a pro!
- Keep that battery blocker in place while you get down to business. You're doing great!
Tools Used
Step 36
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready for some fun! Unscrew those three 1.4 mm-long screws that are keeping the display cable bracket in place. You've got this!
Step 37
- Time to say goodbye to the display cable bracket! Gently remove it and set it aside like a true pro.
Step 38
- Grab that trusty spudger and gently wiggle the flat end under the LCD cable press connector to pop it up and disconnect it.
- When it's time to re-attach those press connectors, take your time and line it up just right. Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pushing down in the middle! A little misalignment can bend those pins and lead to some serious trouble. But hey, if you find yourself in a bind, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 39
- Now, just reverse these steps to put your device back together!
- Don't forget to take care of your e-waste responsibly—drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- Things not going quite as planned? No worries! You can try a bit of troubleshooting or check out our iPad 9 Answers community for some extra guidance.
- If you get stuck, we're here for you! You can always schedule a repair.
