iPad 9 LTE Right Speaker Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 63 Steps
For your own peace of mind, make sure to let that battery drop below 25% before diving into disassembling your iPad. Safety first, and then let the fun begin!
Ready to swap out the right speaker on your iPad 9 LTE? You’re in the right place! Heads up: this guide is just for the LTE model. If you have the Wi-Fi version, check out the link instead. For safety first, make sure your battery is drained below 25% before you start taking things apart—this helps prevent any fire hazards if the battery gets nicked. If your battery looks swollen, handle it with extra care. When it’s time to disconnect the battery, be super gentle—a battery blocker is your friend here, but those contacts are fragile and can get damaged easily. If you decide to skip isolating the battery, try to avoid metal tools unless you’re just dealing with screws, to keep everything safe and avoid short circuits. Some steps here borrow from earlier models, so while there might be tiny differences, the overall process is pretty much the same.
Step 1
Make sure to turn off your iPad before diving into the repair adventure.
- Warm up your iOpener and let it hang out on the left side of your iPad for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 2
- As you give the adhesive some time to loosen up, keep an eye out for these delicate areas that prefer a gentle touch:
- Front camera
- Ambient light sensors
- Antennas
- Display cables
Step 3
The next three steps show you how to use the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool we put together to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for another way to get it done.
For full details on how to work the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface is too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, slap on some tape to give it a better hold.
- Pull the blue handle back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms like a pro.
- Set your iPad on something flat so it sits nicely even between the suction cups.
- Place the suction cups close to the center of the left edge—one near the top, the other near the bottom.
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady while pressing down hard on the top cup to get a good seal.
Step 4
- Grab the blue handle and pull it forward to lock those arms in place.
- Give the handle a full 360-degree spin clockwise, or keep turning until you see the suction cups start to stretch.
- Keep an eye on the suction cups to make sure they stay perfectly lined up. If they start to drift, just loosen them a bit and realign the arms.
Step 5
Take it easy! Only twist about a half turn at a time and give it a minute to chill between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and some patience do the heavy lifting for you.
Need the full scoop on using a hair dryer? Check out this handy guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t giving you enough wiggle room, just heat it up a bit more and twist the handle clockwise half a turn. Easy peasy!
- Take a breather for a minute to let that stubborn adhesive loosen up and create a nice little gap for you.
- If your screen isn't warming up enough, feel free to grab a hair dryer and gently warm up the left edge of the iPad.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has done its magic and created a decent gap, slip an opening pick under the digitizer.
- You can totally skip the next step!
Step 6
Got a screen that’s more cracked than a dropped phone on a Monday? Slap on a layer of clear packing tape to give that suction cup something to grab onto. If you’re feeling extra resourceful, strong tape works too! And if nothing else sticks, a little superglue between the suction cup and the shattered screen can save the day.
- First things first, let’s get that screen nice and toasty! Once it’s warm to the touch, grab a suction handle and stick it on the left edge of the screen, as close to the edge as you can manage.
- Now, gently lift the screen with the suction handle to create a little gap between the digitizer and the frame. You got this!
- Next up, slide an opening pick into that gap you just created. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 7
No need to stress if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just go ahead and pull it out. The LCD screen should be just fine, but keep in mind that you might leave behind some sticky adhesive that could be a bit tricky to clean up.
- Pop in another opening pick into that little gap you've just made.
- Gently slide the pick towards the bottom-left corner of the iPad to break the adhesive seal.
- Keep that pick cozy in the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from re-sticking.
Step 8
- If your opening pick is feeling a bit clingy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle roll along the side of the iPad to keep that sticky situation moving along.
Step 9
- Gently slide your first opening pick up towards the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive.
- Keep the pick lodged in the top-left corner so the adhesive doesn’t sneak back and reseal itself.
Step 10
- Warm up your iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 11
Be careful not to insert the pick more than 7 mm, or you might accidentally poke the ambient light sensor. Let's keep that little guy safe!
- Gently twist the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen that stubborn adhesive.
Step 12
Keep the pick away from the front camera lens—sliding over it could cause some unwanted damage. The next steps will guide you on how to dodge this hazard like a pro.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, making sure to stop just shy of the front camera. You've got this!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is snugly nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide the pick right above the front camera to break the adhesive's grip.
- Keep that pick close to the right side of the front camera as you move forward.
Step 14
- Pop that pick back in and slide it over to the top-right corner of your iPad to fully break free from the adhesive's grip.
- Keep that pick in place at the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from getting all cozy again.
Step 15
- Warm up that iOpener and give it a cozy hug to the right edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes. You've got this!
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Step 16
Careful now! Slide that pick in no more than 4 mm to keep the ambient light sensor safe and sound.
- Give the pick a little spin around the top-right corner of your iPad, and let it work its magic to loosen the adhesive. You've got this!
Step 17
The display cables are nestled about halfway up from the bottom of your iPad. Once you've slid about three inches from the bottom, it's time to stop and hold tight!
- Grab a fresh opening pick and slide it right into the heart of the iPad's right edge. You've got this!
Step 18
- Grab your trusty iOpener and heat it up. Once it's nice and warm, place it on the bottom edge of your iPad and let it sit there for a solid two minutes.
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Step 19
Avoid spinning the pick all the way around the corner to keep that antenna safe and sound.
Check out the third image—it points out the sneaky little antenna tucked away in the bottom-left corner, right beneath the digitizer. Pretty neat, huh?
- Gently slide the bottom-left pick into the corner to loosen up that adhesive. A little wiggle goes a long way!
- Once you've got the pick in the corner, leave it there for now. No need to rush – there's more to come!
Step 20
Slide the pick gently toward the home button—no sneaky moves away from it, or the antenna might throw a tantrum!
If you find yourself needing to slide the pick over this spot again, just pop it out and reinsert it at the bottom-left corner. You've got this!
- Pop a fresh opening pick into that little gap you made at the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Gently glide the pick over the antenna, but stop just shy of the home button.
- Keep the pick off to the left of the home button before you carry on.
Step 21
- Take your opening pick and gently slide it into the gap you've just created. Easy does it!
- Now, carefully slide the pick under the home button, angling it towards the bottom-right corner. Just let the tip sneak between the digitizer and the frame. No rush, just a steady hand!
Step 22
Slide the pick gently only toward the home button—going the other way could mess up the antenna, and we don’t want that!
If you find yourself needing to glide that pick across this area once more, feel free to lift it and pop it back in at the bottom-right corner.
- Grab your pick and gently slide it toward the home button to fully detach the bottom adhesive.
- Now, leave the pick resting just to the right of the home button before moving forward.
Step 23
- Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the right edge of the iPad.
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Step 24
Take your time with this step! Make sure the adhesive is nice and toasty, and that you've carefully separated all of it with an opening pick. If things get tricky, don’t hesitate to pause and give it another heat-up!
If you're feeling some serious resistance, give those edges a little heat and gently glide along them with an opening pick.
- Gently twist the two opening picks into the left corners of your iPad. This will lift the digitizer just enough to separate the last bit of adhesive. Take your time here—patience is key!
Step 25
- Gently lift the left side of the digitizer to give the adhesive on the right edge a little more space to separate. Take it slow, no rush!
Step 26
Heads up! Gently work around the two display cables with your opening pick to keep them safe and sound.
- Hold the digitizer steady while gently sliding an opening pick between the two display cables to carefully peel apart the last bit of adhesive. You've got this!
Step 27
- After you've successfully separated all that sticky adhesive, gently open the digitizer like it’s a book and lay it flat next to the iPad.
- As you put everything back together, don't forget to tidy up! Use some isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any leftover adhesive from the frame—and if you're reusing the digitizer, give it a little clean too. Make sure to use our adhesive strips or those handy pre-cut adhesive cards to seal the deal.
- Keep an eye on those delicate display cables when you're reassembling your iPad. Fold them neatly under the LCD screen to ensure they stay safe and sound. You're doing great!
Step 28
- Grab your tweezers or just use your fingers to peel away any tape hiding those LCD screws. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 29
- Grab your trusty Phillips #00 screwdriver and carefully remove the four 4.2 mm screws holding the LCD screen in place.
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Step 30
The LCD is gently stuck to the frame, so take your time peeling it away.
- Slide a spudger in between the frame and the upper right corner of the LCD.
- Gently pry with the spudger to break the adhesive seal.
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Step 31
- Go ahead and do the same thing you just did, but now for the top-left corner of the LCD. You’ve got this!
Step 32
Hold up! Don’t yank the LCD out completely just yet — it’s still hanging on by that sneaky little flex cable.
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to pop the LCD out of its spot just enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
- Flip the LCD over like turning a page in a book, lifting near the camera and folding it back over the home button side of the frame.
- Place the LCD face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface so you can easily get to the display cables.
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Step 33
- Grab your Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the tiny 2.3 mm screw holding the battery connector to the logic board. Steady hands win here!
Step 34
Check out these photos showing the battery connector under the logic board. Use these as your reference to safely disconnect the battery, no stress.
You'll notice the battery connector has cantilever springs that press against the battery contact pads on the logic board. Both the board and the battery are glued down, so grab something thin and flexible to slide between the contacts and disconnect the battery. Just take it easy and go slow—patience is key here.
Step 35
Take it easy when you're isolating that battery with a blocker! Those battery contacts are a bit delicate and can bend or break, leading to some serious trouble.
Make sure the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up – it's a little detail that helps everything line up perfectly.
Don't try to shove the battery blocker under the connector with too much force. If it’s being stubborn, grab a playing card to help you disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should slide smoothly under the logic board. After it’s in, it should rest at a slight 15-degree angle, like it's taking a little nap.
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector at a cool 35-degree angle – it’s like giving it a little hug!
- Keep that battery blocker snug in place while you tackle the rest of your repair. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 36
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and carefully take out the three 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket.
Step 37
- Take off that display cable bracket like a pro! You've got this!
Step 38
- Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently pry up and disconnect the LCD cable press connector. Take it slow, no rush here!
- When you're ready to re-attach the press connector, just line it up carefully. Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying 'click,' then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle—this helps keep those delicate pins from bending. Misalignment can cause lasting damage, so take your time!
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Step 39
- Carefully lift the LCD off and place it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot to keep it safe and sound.
Step 40
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel away the tape that's keeping the home button cable ZIF connector under wraps.
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Step 41
- Grab a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail, and gently flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the home button cable’s ZIF connector. Easy does it!
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Step 42
- Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector like a pro.
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Step 43
To keep your iPad safe and sound, make sure to gently pry only on the connectors themselves—no poking around the logic board socket, please!
- Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under those two digitizer cable connectors and pop them free. It’s a smooth move – just a little prying and you’re good to go!
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Step 44
Watch out—don’t poke or rip the home button ribbon cable!
- Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the buffer block in the bottom-right corner of the iPad. Give it a little pry, and don't be shy!
- Once you've loosened it up, go ahead and lift that buffer block out with ease. You're on a roll!
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Step 45
The home button cable is held in place with a bit of gentle adhesive.
- Grab a pair of tweezers and gently peel the home button cable away from the frame. Take it slow and steady—you’ve got this!
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Step 46
Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any leftover sticky stuff that might still be holding the front panel assembly to the frame.
Just a heads-up: if the insulation isn't in place, those digitizer spots could accidentally short-circuit against other parts, leading to some touchy input issues.
And don't be fooled—this insulation isn’t visible like the foam dust barrier strips you see on many iPads; it’s a bit more elusive.
- First up, let's get that front panel assembly off. It's time to say goodbye to the old screen!
- If your new display starts acting a bit quirky with those pesky 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches, don't sweat it! A quick fix is to add a super thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton tape, on the highlighted areas at the back of the panel. Just a heads up, the replacement digitizers usually come with the right insulation, so you might not need any extra tape.
- As you gear up for reassembly, give your iPad some love by removing any leftover adhesive and cleaning the glued spots with some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) and a lint-free cloth. This will make sure your fresh adhesive bonds like a champ.
- Before you seal everything up, make sure to test your iPad's functions and stick on those pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display using our handy display adhesive application guide. You're almost there!
Step 47
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to lift the tiny hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable's ZIF connector.
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Step 48
- Grab your tweezers and gently pull the SIM card reader cable straight out of the ZIF connector—steady hands win the day!
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Step 49
There are two antenna cables in this area, but don't worry—just disconnect the one that's hanging out closest to the edge.
- Slide the pointed tip of a spudger under the right antenna cable and gently lift straight up to unplug it.
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Step 50
Hold the antenna cable by the cable itself—grabbing it by the connector is a quick way to snap it off, and nobody wants that!
- Gently lift the right antenna cable up and out of the way.
Step 51
- Keep on gently peeling the right antenna cable away from the back case. You're doing great!
Step 52
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s get those three screws holding down the right antenna out of there! You've got this!
- First up, we have one 2.3 mm-long screw, just waiting to be released.
- And don’t forget about the two 1.4 mm-long screws that are just as eager to join the party!
Step 53
The antenna cable is held in place on the speaker by a tiny metal bracket. This bracket is crimped onto the antenna and stuck firmly to the speaker housing. To get the antenna out, you'll need to carefully cut through the adhesive bonding it to the speaker.
- Gently slide an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the bracket.
- Move the pick toward the charging port to carefully slice through the adhesive.
- Nudge the bracket away from the speaker until it lifts clear of the tape underneath.
Step 54
- Wedge an opening pick in between the antenna and speaker assembly.
- Gently slide the pick underneath the antenna to sever that foam adhesive.
- Carefully take out the right antenna.
Step 55
- Gently slide the pointed tip of your spudger under the left antenna cable and give it a little lift straight up to disconnect it. You've got this!
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Step 56
- Gently peel the left antenna cable away from the rear case, along the bottom edge of the iPad. It's like giving your device a little hug!
- Now, just fold that left antenna cable out of the way. Easy peasy!
Step 57
You can peel off all the tape or just stop once you’ve got access to the right speaker ZIF connector—your call!
- Gently lift the tape covering the speaker connectors using tweezers or your fingernail—think of it as peeling back a secret flap!
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Step 58
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to lift up the tiny hinged locking flap on the right speaker cable’s ZIF connector.
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Step 59
- Grab your tweezers and gently wiggle the right speaker cable straight out of the ZIF connector—nice and easy, no sudden moves!
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Step 60
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and twist out the 2.3 mm screw holding the right speaker in place.
Step 61
- Gently lift and peel the LCD buffer tape off the back case—take your time and keep it smooth!
Step 62
- Gently slide the flat edge of your spudger into the little groove in the speaker housing, right by the corner of the rear case.
- Give a gentle nudge to the speaker, pushing it away from the back case.
- Now, carefully work the speaker out from beneath the shelf on the rear case.
Tools Used
Step 63
- Put your device back together by following these steps in reverse.
- When disposing of e-waste, make sure to take it to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- If things didn’t quite work out, try some basic troubleshooting or tap into our iPad 8 Answers community for a hand.
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