iPad 9 Microphone Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 62 Steps
For your own safety, make sure to drain that battery below 25% before diving into the disassembly of your iPad. Let's keep things safe and sound!
Ready to give your iPad 9 Wi-Fi a little TLC? This guide will help you swap out the microphone assembly like a pro! Just a heads-up, this guide is specifically for the Wi-Fi version—if you're rocking the LTE model, you can find what you need elsewhere. Safety first: make sure to drain that battery below 25% before diving in. This keeps things safe in case the battery gets a little too friendly during the repair. If you notice any swelling, take the necessary precautions. When you're isolating that battery with a blocker, handle it gently—the contacts are delicate and can easily get damaged, which is a bummer! If you decide to skip the battery isolation, stick to non-metal tools whenever possible (except for those pesky screws) to avoid shorting out your battery or messing with the sensitive circuits. Some of the images in this guide might be from a different model, so they could look a bit different, but don’t worry—they won't mess with the steps you need to take.
Step 1
Make sure to turn off your iPad before diving into the repair – it's the first step to a smooth sailing adventure!
- Warm up your trusty iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the left edge of the iPad.
Tools Used
Step 2
- As the adhesive starts to soften, keep an eye out for these delicate spots that really don’t like being poked:
- Front camera
- Antennas
- Display cables
- Ambient light sensors
Step 3
The next three steps walk you through the Anti-Clamp, a handy tool crafted to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for another way to get it done.
For the full lowdown on using the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your iPad’s surface is feeling a bit too slick for the Anti-Clamp to grip, slap on some tape to give it a better hold.
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug back to release the Anti-Clamp's arms—it's like a little dance move!
- Pop something under your iPad so it sits perfectly between the suction cups—just like a cozy little bed.
- Plop the suction cups near the center of the left edge—one on top and one on the bottom, like two little buddies!
- Keep the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and give the top cup a solid press to create some awesome suction magic.
Step 4
- Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to secure those arms in place.
- Twist the handle a full 360 degrees or until you see those suction cups start to stretch a bit.
- Keep an eye on those suction cups and make sure they're playing nice and staying aligned. If they start to drift apart, just loosen them a tad and bring those arms back together.
Step 5
Take it easy! Just twist no more than half a turn at a time, and chill for a minute between each turn. Let the Anti-Clamp do its magic while you kick back and relax.
Want the full scoop on how to handle a hair dryer like a pro? Dive into this guide.
If the Anti-Clamp isn’t opening up enough space, just heat it up a bit more and twist the handle clockwise half a turn.
- Give it a minute to let that adhesive chill out and create a little opening for you.
- If your screen's feeling a bit cold, a hair dryer can help warm up the left edge of your iPad.
- Once the Anti-Clamp has made a nice gap, slide in an opening pick under the digitizer.
- Feel free to skip the next step!
Step 6
Here’s how to pop open your iPad using a suction handle.
If your screen is shattered to bits, slap on a layer of clear packing tape to help the suction cup stick better. No suction cup? No problem — strong tape can do the trick too. And if you’re feeling adventurous, a tiny dab of superglue can secure the suction cup to that broken screen.
- Once your screen is feeling cozy and warm, grab a suction handle and plop it down on the left edge, nice and close to the edge for the best grip.
- Gently lift the screen with that suction handle to create a tiny gap between the digitizer and the frame. You're doing great!
- Now, slide an opening pick into that little gap you've just made. Keep it steady and you'll be golden!
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Step 7
No need to stress if you spot the opening pick peeking through the digitizer — just wiggle it out. Your LCD screen should remain safe and sound, but be mindful of any adhesive that might be a bit stubborn to clean up after.
- Pop in a second opening pick where you’ve just made some space.
- Gently slide that pick down towards the bottom-left corner of the iPad to help release the adhesive.
- Keep the pick in place at the bottom-left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 8
- If the opening pick gets a little too cozy with the adhesive, just give it a gentle 'roll' along the side of the iPad to keep that adhesive separation going strong!
Step 9
- Gently slide your trusty opening pick towards the top-left corner of the iPad to break free the adhesive that's holding things together.
- Once you've made that initial separation, leave the pick tucked away in the top-left corner to keep the adhesive from making a comeback.
Step 10
- Warm up an iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 11
- Carefully twist the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive like a pro.
Step 12
Be careful not to slide the pick over the front camera, as that could scratch the lens. We've got some tips coming up to help you dodge this misstep.
- Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, but make sure to stop right before you hit the front camera – we don't want any accidental selfies here!
Step 13
- Gently pull the pick out until just the tip is nestled between the digitizer and the frame.
- Slide that pick right above the front camera to break free the adhesive holding it tight.
- Keep the pick close to the right side of the front camera before you move on to the next step.
Step 14
- Pop that pick back in and give it a little slide towards the top-right corner of the iPad to fully break free the top adhesive. You've got this!
- Keep that pick in the top-right corner to stop the adhesive from getting all cozy again.
Step 15
- Warm up an iOpener and stick it on the right edge of your iPad for a solid two minutes to loosen things up.
Tools Used
Step 16
- Gently twist the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to loosen the adhesive and get things moving.
Step 17
The display cables hang out roughly halfway up from the bottom edge of your iPad. Pause your slide once you hit about 3 inches from the bottom—that’s your sweet spot!
- Pop in a fresh opening pick and slide it smoothly to the center of the iPad’s right edge.
Step 18
- Warm up an iOpener and chill it on the bottom edge of the iPad for a solid two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 19
Careful not to twist the pick all the way around the corner—your antenna will thank you if you keep it chill!
The third image highlights the sneaky little antenna hanging out in the bottom-left corner, just chilling under the digitizer.
- Gently slide the pick down to the bottom-left corner to loosen the adhesive like a pro.
- Keep the pick snug in that corner before moving on to the next move.
Step 20
Be sure to slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, or you might accidentally mess with the antenna. Let's keep that antenna happy!
If you need to glide the pick over this spot again, just pull it out and pop it back in at the bottom-left corner.
- Pop a new opening pick into the little gap you just made on the bottom edge of your iPad.
- Gently slide that pick over the antenna, but hold up just before you reach the home button.
- Leave the pick hanging out to the left of the home button before you move on.
Step 21
- Pop an opening pick into the gap you just made.
- Gently slide the pick under the home button, heading toward the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip sneaks between the digitizer and the frame.
Step 22
Slide the pick gently only towards the home button—going the other way could mess with the antenna, and we don't want that!
If you're finding the pick a bit stubborn, no worries! Just pull it out, then slide it back in from the bottom-right corner and give it another go.
- Pop the pick back in and slide it towards the home button to fully break the bottom adhesive free.
- Leave the pick just to the right of the home button and carry on when you're ready.
Step 23
- Warm up your trusty iOpener and let it dance on the right edge of your iPad for a cozy two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 24
Take it easy with this step! Make sure the adhesive is nice and toasty, and gently work your pick around to separate it all. It's totally okay to pause and give it another heat-up if you need to. You've got this!
If you hit some stubborn spots, just warm up the edges again and gently slide your opening pick along them.
- Gently twist the two opening picks at the left corners of the iPad to carefully lift the digitizer just enough to break the last bit of adhesive holding it down.
Step 25
As you move through the next steps, try to keep your fingers off the back of the glass and the LCD surface—fingerprints love to stick around and can be a real pain to clean up later.
- Gently lift the left edge of the digitizer to help peel away the adhesive that's sticking to the right edge of the iPad. You're doing great!
Step 26
Watch out for those two digitizer cables while you're using your opening pick—let's keep them safe and sound!
- Keep a steady hand on the digitizer while gently sliding an opening pick between the two digitizer cables to carefully peel apart the last bit of stubborn adhesive.
Step 27
- After you’ve loosened all the adhesive, open the digitizer like a book and lay it flat alongside the iPad.
- When putting it back together, wipe off any leftover adhesive from both the frame and the digitizer—if you’re reusing it—using some isopropyl alcohol. Then, swap in fresh adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards to keep things secure.
- Keep an eye on those display cables during reassembly! Make sure they’re neatly folded under the LCD screen to avoid any damage.
Step 28
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out the four screws that hold the LCD in place. They're just 4.2 mm long, so they won't give you too much trouble!
- As you dive into this repair, remember to keep an eye on those little screws! They’re like tiny puzzle pieces that need to find their way back home, so don’t lose track of where they belong to keep your iPad happy.
- Clear away any tape that's blocking the way to the LCD screws. We need a clear path for this adventure!
Step 29
Hold your horses! Don't go yanking that LCD out just yet; it's still got some cozy connections at the home button end.
Gently raise the LCD from the front-facing camera end, and give those cables a break!
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to nudge the LCD out of its snug little home just enough so you can grab it with your fingers.
- Now, flip that iPad LCD like you're turning the page of an exciting book, lifting it near the camera and rolling it over towards the home button end of the frame.
- Carefully place the LCD down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface, giving you easy access to those display cables.
Tools Used
Step 30
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and carefully unscrew the 2.3 mm-long screw that's keeping the battery connector snugly attached to the logic board. You're doing great!
Step 31
Check out these pics to see what the battery connector looks like tucked under the logic board. Keep them handy as a guide while you carefully disconnect the battery.
Heads up: the battery connector uses cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery’s contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you’ll need to gently slide a thin, flexible tool between those contacts to safely separate the battery.
Step 32
Be sure to follow these steps closely when isolating the battery with a battery blocker! The battery contacts can be a bit delicate and may bend or break, leading to some serious trouble down the line.
Make sure the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is pointing up—it's like a little guiding star!
Be gentle with the battery blocker; no need to force it underneath the connector. If you're having a tough time getting it under the logic board, grab a playing card instead—it's a handy little trick to disconnect the battery.
The battery blocker or playing card should glide right under the logic board without any hitches. Once it's in place, it should rest at a cool 15-degree angle. Easy peasy!
- Gently slide the battery blocker under the logic board's battery connector, aiming for a smooth 35-degree angle. A little tilt goes a long way!
- Leave the battery blocker right where it is while you continue with the rest of the process. It’s happy there, and so should you be!
Tools Used
Step 33
- Grab a Phillips screwdriver and take out the three 1.4 mm screws holding down the display cable bracket. Easy does it!
Step 34
- Carefully remove the display cable bracket to keep things moving smoothly.
Step 35
- Gently use the flat end of a spudger to lift and unplug the LCD cable press connector.
- When reconnecting press connectors like this, line up one side carefully and press down until you hear a click, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing the middle to prevent bending the pins, which can cause lasting damage.
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Step 36
- Carefully lift off the LCD and set it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free spot to keep it safe and sound.
Step 37
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel away the tape that's keeping the home button cable ZIF connector under wraps. You've got this!
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Step 38
- Grab a spudger, opening tool, or even your fingernail to gently flip up the tiny hinged lock on the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Step 39
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Easy does it!
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Step 40
Be gentle and only pry at the connectors themselves—avoid putting any pressure on the logic board’s socket to keep your iPad safe and sound.
- Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently pry up and disconnect those two digitizer cable press connectors. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 41
Be super careful with that home button ribbon cable—don’t poke or pull it. It’s fragile, and you don’t want any accidental damage here!
- Grab the flat end of your trusty spudger and gently lift up the buffer block hanging out near the bottom-right corner of the iPad.
- Carefully take the buffer block off and set it aside.
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Step 42
The home button cable is held in place with a bit of gentle adhesive.
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently peel the home button cable away from the frame. You've got this!
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Step 43
Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any stubborn adhesive still clinging the front panel assembly to the frame. It's like giving your device a little spa day!
Watch out! Without the right insulation, those sneaky areas of the digitizer could short out against other components, leading to some pesky touch input issues. Let's keep everything grounded, shall we?
Just a heads up, this insulation is a bit of a ninja—it's invisible to the naked eye and distinct from the foam dust barrier strips you might find on many iPads.
- Start by gently taking off the front panel assembly. It's like peeling a banana, but way more satisfying!
- If your new display is throwing a tantrum with 'ghost' or 'phantom' touches, don't fret! Just pop on a thin layer of insulating tape, like Kapton (polyimide) tape, on the highlighted areas at the back of the panel. No worries if you got an iPad replacement digitizer; it comes with the right insulation, so you can skip the tape.
- As you get ready to put everything back together, make sure to clear away any leftover adhesive from the iPad. Grab some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or more) and a lint-free cloth to clean those glued areas. This will prep your iPad for fresh adhesive and ensure a solid bond.
- Once you're all set, take a moment to test out your iPad's functions. Then, use our display adhesive application guide to stick those pre-cut adhesive strips to the back of the display before you seal it up. You're just about done, and it’s looking great!
Step 44
- Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to tackle those three little 1.4 mm-long screws holding the upper component bracket in place. Let's get this done!
Step 45
- Grab those tweezers or your trusty fingers and gently lift the upper component bracket off the frame. You've got this!
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Step 46
- Carefully lift any tape hiding the headphone jack's press connector.
Step 47
- Gently wedge the flat end of your spudger under the headphone jack’s press connector to pop it loose and disconnect it.
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Step 48
The headphone jack cable is gently attached to the frame.
- Grab those tweezers or use your fingers to gently lift the headphone jack cable away from the frame. You've got this!
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Step 49
- Gently lift off any tape hiding the front camera’s ZIF connector — almost there!
Step 50
- Gently use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or even your fingernail to flip up the tiny hinged locking flap on the front camera’s ZIF connector. Easy does it!
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Step 51
- Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently pull the front camera cable straight out of the ZIF connector. You've got this!
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Step 52
- Warm up your iOpener and give the top of the iPad a cozy 90-second hug with it!
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Step 53
If the adhesive is being stubborn, try heating it up a bit more and gently pry from different angles until it gives way.
- Slide the flat end of your spudger right between the front camera and the frame.
- Carefully wiggle it up to loosen the adhesive without causing any trouble.
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Step 54
- Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the front camera right out of its cozy little spot.
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Step 55
- Warm up an iOpener and chill it on the microphone assembly for about thirty seconds to loosen things up.
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Step 56
The front camera shell is gently stuck to the frame, so take your time peeling it off.
- Slide an opening pick into the gap between the front camera shell and the frame. It's a smooth move!
- Gently glide the pick around the edge of the camera shell to break that adhesive seal. You're doing great!
Step 57
- Gently nudge the opening pick to pop the front camera shell away from the frame—easy does it!
- Now, go ahead and lift off the front camera shell.
Step 58
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to lift and disconnect that microphone cable's press connector. You've got this!
Tools Used
Step 59
- Slide an opening pick between the frame and the bottom of the microphone, right by the press connector.
- Gently glide the pick underneath the microphone while lifting up to break the adhesive seal.
Step 60
- Wedge a halberd spudger between the frame and the top of the microphone, close to the edge of the frame.
- Gently slide the spudger under the microphone and pry it sideways to break free from the adhesive.
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Step 61
There's a big sticky blob of adhesive hanging out on the right side of the microphone; you might have to heat it a couple of times to get it to loosen up.
- Gently wedge a halberd spudger between the frame and the right side of the microphone.
- Carefully slide the spudger while lifting to loosen the adhesive.
Tools Used
Step 62
- Time to put your device back together! Just follow these steps in reverse and you'll be good to go.
- Got some old tech lying around? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
- Things didn't go as smoothly as expected? No worries! You can try some basic troubleshooting or reach out to our iPad 9 Answers community for a little extra guidance.
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