Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge Earpiece Assembly Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 23 Steps
Get ready to tackle the task of swapping out the earpiece assembly in your Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge! This includes the earpiece speaker, proximity, and gesture sensors. First up, we’ll be removing the rear glass. Just a heads-up: doing this will break the adhesive holding it together, so keep that in mind for reassembly. But don't worry, we’ll guide you on how to reattach that rear glass like a pro!
Step 1
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder: keep that tool away from the microphone hole to avoid any mishaps. And don't forget to spot the outline of the SIM tray!
- Grab a paper clip or SIM eject tool and find the tiny hole on top of the phone's SIM card slot.
- Gently press the paper clip into the hole until the SIM card tray pops out a bit.
- Carefully pull out the SIM card tray from the phone to access your SIM card.
Step 2
Using a carousel microwave? Make sure the plate can spin without any trouble. If your iOpener gets stuck, it could get too hot and burn.
It's a great idea to give your microwave a little TLC before diving in. Any leftover gunk on the bottom might just hitch a ride on your iOpener!
- Pop your iOpener right in the middle of the microwave.
Tools Used
Step 3
Keep the iOpener cool—well, not literally, but don’t let it overheat! Cranking it past 100˚C (212˚F) is a big no-no, since that could make it pop.
Skip using the iOpener if it’s looking puffy or swollen.
If it still feels too hot to handle in the middle, give it a few more minutes to chill out before reheating. When it’s at the right temp, it should stay warm and ready to go for about 10 minutes.
Microwave wattages can vary, so you may need a little more or less time. The iOpener is ready to roll when it's just shy of being too hot to handle.
- Pop your iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds to get it warmed up.
- If it starts to lose its mojo, just give it another 30-second spin in the microwave whenever needed.
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Step 4
Heads up—the iOpener gets seriously hot! Grab an oven mitt if you need a little extra hand protection.
- Time to get that iOpener out of the microwave! Carefully grab it by one of the flat ends to avoid the hot spot in the middle.
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Step 5
Heads up: the iOpener gets really hot, so grab it by the end tabs only—no accidental finger toasting!
No microwave? No worries! You can heat your iOpener in boiling water instead.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to cover your iOpener.
- Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat.
- Drop the iOpener in and let it relax in the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully underwater.
- Use tongs to safely lift the iOpener out of the hot water.
- Pat the iOpener dry with a towel—no one likes soggy tools.
- Ready to roll! If you need to reheat, just boil the water again, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 6
You can totally use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate if you're feeling adventurous! Just remember, it's super important to keep the heat in check—both the OLED display and the internal battery can get cranky with too much heat. So, stay cool and take your time!
Cracking open your phone means its waterproofing is taking a vacation. Grab some fresh adhesive before you start, or just steer clear of moisture if you’re skipping the sticky stuff.
If your glass is rocking the shattered look, slap some packing tape over it to keep things together while you work your magic.
Getting stubborn about heat? You might need to warm up the phone with the iOpener a few times to get things moving. Just stick to the iOpener’s rules—no one wants a crispy phone.
- Start by placing the warmed iOpener on the back panel for about two minutes to help loosen that stubborn adhesive hugging the glass. Don't rush it, let the heat do its magic!
- Next, move the iOpener to the remaining section of the panel for another two minutes. Patience is key here – you've got this!
Tools Used
Step 7
If you’d like a little extra help loosening the adhesive, slip in a few drops of isopropyl alcohol after inserting the pick. It’ll make the next steps a breeze.
- When the back glass is feeling a little toasty, grab a suction cup and pop it on near the bottom edge of that glass.
- Give that suction cup a gentle lift to create a tiny gap under the rear glass, then slide in an opening pick to keep it open.
Step 8
Once you've made some progress, consider keeping that pick in place while you grab a second one for the next step. It’s like a little safety net to stop the glue from getting cozy again.
Give the rear glass a little warmth boost as needed to keep that glue from cooling off and getting all stubborn.
- Gently glide the pick along the bottom edge of your phone to cut through the sticky stuff holding that rear glass in place. You’ve got this!
Step 9
- Now it's time to get the other sides of your phone loose - repeat the heating and cutting process for the remaining three sides, and don't forget to leave an opening pick under each edge to keep that adhesive from sneaking back in.
- Keep those opening picks in place under each edge to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing, you're making great progress!
Step 10
- Glide your opening pick along the edges to break up any stubborn adhesive still hanging on.
- Gently lift off the rear glass and set it aside like the pro you are.
Step 11
- Let's get that new rear glass on, shall we? If you're going for a reusable route with the old rear glass or using a fresh piece that lacks pre-installed adhesive, follow this guide.
- Grab some tweezers and carefully eliminate any stubborn adhesive still hanging out on the phone's chassis.
- Time for a little cleaning magic! Use high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) along with a lint-free cloth. Just swipe in one direction, and avoid going back and forth. This will ensure your surface is squeaky clean and ready for the new adhesive.
- Now, peel off the backing from the new rear glass. Align one edge of the glass with the phone chassis, and give it a firm press to secure it in place.
Tools Used
Step 12
- Time to get your toolkit ready! Start by carefully taking out the thirteen 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws from the midframe. You've got this!
Step 13
- Give the back of the battery a gentle press down and then lift up on the edges of the midframe to pop it free from the rest of your phone. You're doing great!
Step 14
- Grab your spudger and gently use the flat end to pop that battery ribbon cable off the motherboard. It’ll come loose with just a little nudge.
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Step 15
- Unplug that home button ribbon cable from the motherboard and give it some space!
Step 16
- Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed end to gently disconnect those two antenna interconnect cables from the motherboard. You've got this!
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Step 17
- Gently unplug the display ribbon cable from the motherboard using the flat end of your trusty spudger. You've got this!
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Step 18
- Gently unplug the earpiece ribbon cable from the motherboard. You've got this!
Step 19
Be careful when handling the motherboard - it's super sensitive to static electricity! Consider wearing an anti-static bracelet to keep it safe.
Don't pull the motherboard all the way out just yet! You'll need to disconnect the ribbon cable on the underside first.
- Hold the motherboard gently by both upper edges.
- Carefully lift the motherboard up and away from the screen, making sure not to tug too hard on the daughterboard ribbon cable. Easy does it!
Step 20
- Flip the motherboard over and gently unplug the daughterboard ribbon cable—think of it as disconnecting a tiny, high-tech seatbelt.
Step 21
Hands off the board! It’s attached to the earpiece speaker assembly, so don’t try to pry it loose.
- Gently lift the earpiece assembly board out of its cozy routing channel, right above the earpiece speaker. You've got this!
Step 22
- Pop off the EMI shield that's hanging out over the proximity and gesture sensors.
Step 23
- Gently wiggle the earpiece speaker assembly out of the phone, making sure to be kind to those little cables and avoid any tugging.