Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge Rear Facing Camera Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 21 Steps
Ready to bring your Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge’s main camera back to life? This guide will walk you through swapping out that broken camera. Heads up: you’ll need to remove the rear glass, and once it’s off, the adhesive won’t be reusable. Check out the linked steps at the end for putting the rear glass back on.
Step 1
Steer clear of poking the tool into the microphone hole—stick to the SIM tray outline to avoid any mishaps!
- Grab a paper clip or that handy SIM eject tool and slide it into the tiny hole on the SIM card slot at the top of your phone.
- Give it a gentle press to pop out the SIM card tray.
- Carefully pull the SIM card tray out from your phone.
Step 2
For carousel microwaves: Ensure the plate spins without a hitch. If your iOpener gets a bit too cozy, it could overheat and cause a little trouble. Keep it moving!
Before you dive in, it's a good idea to give your microwave a quick clean. Any leftover gunk on the bottom could stick to the iOpener and make things messy. Trust us, a little cleanup now will save you a lot of hassle later!
- Pop that iOpener right in the middle of the microwave!
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Step 3
Heads up! Don't overheat the iOpener, or it might burst. Keep it under 100˚C (212˚F) to be safe.
If the iOpener looks swollen, don't touch it. Better to be safe than sorry!
If the iOpener is still too hot to handle, just wait it out. It should stay warm for up to 10 minutes, so you can keep working while it cools down a bit.
Microwaves can be a bit unpredictable—if yours runs hotter or cooler, you might need to tweak the time. The iOpener is ready when it’s just at that ‘whoa, that’s almost too hot’ level.
- Pop your iOpener into the microwave and give it a quick 30-second heat-up. Easy, right?
- As you're working through the repair, make sure to reheat the iOpener every 30 seconds if it starts to cool off. A quick zap in the microwave and you're good to go!
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Step 4
Heads up: the iOpener is going to be pretty hot! Grab an oven mitt or something similar if you need a little extra protection.
- Take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping it by one of the two flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. Stay cool and careful!
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Step 5
The iOpener will be quite hot, so make sure to grab it by the end tabs only. You don't want to end up with a surprise burn!
No microwave? No problem! Just heat up your iOpener in some boiling water with this step.
- Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to cover your iOpener completely.
- Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat—you want it hot, not a rolling volcano.
- Drop your iOpener into the hot water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it's totally underwater.
- Use tongs (not your fingers—ouch!) to fish the iOpener out of the water.
- Give the iOpener a good towel-dry so it’s not dripping all over the place.
- Ready to roll! If you need to reheat, just repeat: boil water, turn off heat, and soak the iOpener for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 6
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can do the trick, but watch out! Overheating your phone might cause some serious drama with that OLED display and the internal battery. Keep it cool to keep it safe!
Opening your phone means saying goodbye to its waterproof seals. So, make sure you've got some replacement adhesive handy before diving in, or be extra careful to keep it away from any liquids if you're putting it back together without swapping out the adhesive.
If your glass is in pieces, don’t stress! Just slap some packing tape over the entire panel to keep it all together while you work your magic during the removal process.
You might find yourself reheating and reapplying the iOpener a few times to get your phone nice and cozy. Just follow the iOpener instructions to keep things from getting too hot to handle!
- Place the warmed iOpener on the back panel for around two minutes to help loosen up that stubborn adhesive around the edge of the glass.
- Move the iOpener to heat the rest of the panel for another two minutes, giving it some extra love.
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Step 7
If you’re feeling adventurous, once that pick is snugly in place, consider dropping in a couple of drops of isopropyl alcohol into the gap. It can help loosen up that adhesive for the steps ahead. Just a little goes a long way!
- Once the back glass feels nice and toasty, grab your suction cup and stick it near the bottom edge.
- Give the suction cup a gentle lift to open up a little gap under the glass, then slide an opening pick into that space.
Step 8
Now that you've made some progress, consider leaving the pick in place and grabbing a second one to help with the next step. This trick can prevent the glue from re-sticking, making your life easier.
Keep the rear glass warm as needed to stop the glue from cooling down and hardening. This will make the process smoother and less frustrating.
- Glide your pick along the bottom edge of your phone to loosen up that sticky adhesive holding the rear glass in place.
Step 9
- Now it's time to keep the momentum going! Heat things up and slice through the next three sides of your phone just like you did before.
- Don't forget to tuck an opening pick under each edge to make sure the adhesive stays on vacation and doesn't come back to haunt you!
Step 10
- Grab your trusty opening pick and gently cut through any stubborn adhesive that’s still hanging around.
- Carefully take off the rear glass and reveal the inner workings of your device!
Step 11
- Ready to give your phone a fresh look with some new rear glass? Let’s dive in!
- If you’re planning to put the old rear glass back on or using some adhesive-free glass, check out this guide.
- Grab your tweezers and gently remove any old adhesive that’s stubbornly clinging to the phone’s chassis.
- Time to clean up! Use some high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. Remember, swipe in one direction—no back and forth! This is key to prepping the surface for that new adhesive.
- Now, peel off the backing from the new rear glass, align one edge with the phone chassis, and give it a firm press to attach it like a pro!
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Step 12
- Get ready to tackle those thirteen 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws holding down the midframe. Let's get them out and make some progress!
Step 13
- Gently press down on the back of the battery while carefully prying up the edges of the midframe to pop it loose from the rest of the phone.
Step 14
- With the flat end of your trusty spudger, gently disconnect that battery ribbon cable from the motherboard. You've got this!
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Step 15
- Carefully unplug the home button ribbon cable from the motherboard. You've got this!
Step 16
- Grab your trusty spudger and use the pointed end to gently detach those two antenna interconnect cables from the motherboard. Easy peasy!
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Step 17
- Gently pop the display ribbon cable off the motherboard using the flat end of your trusty spudger. You've got this!
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Step 18
- Gently disconnect the earpiece ribbon cable from the motherboard, giving it a friendly wiggle to free it from its socket.
Step 19
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder that the motherboard is a delicate ESD-sensitive component, so treat it like the precious gem it is! We suggest rocking an anti-static bracelet whenever you're handling these parts to keep things safe and sound.
And remember, when you're at this step, don't yank the motherboard out just yet! There's a ribbon cable hiding underneath, and it needs to be disconnected first. Take your time and be gentle!
- Grab the motherboard by its edges near the top—like you’re holding a prize trophy!
- Gently lift the motherboard up and away from the display, being super careful not to stress the daughterboard ribbon cable. Treat it like a delicate flower!
Step 20
- Gently wiggle and disconnect the daughterboard ribbon cable from the underside of the motherboard. You've got this!
Step 21
- Gently use the flat end of your spudger to pop the rear camera connector off the motherboard—think of it like unplugging a tiny seatbelt.
- Lift out the rear-facing camera and set it aside. Nice work!