iMac Intel 21.5″ Retina 4K Display FaceTime Camera and Microphone Cable Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 29 Steps
If your microphone and FaceTime camera are acting up, it might be time to check that pesky cable. Don’t worry, though! Follow this guide to swap out the camera and microphone ribbon cable in a 21.5″ Retina 4K Late 2015 iMac — you’ve got this!
Step 1
Handle the board like a pro! Stick to the edges and steer clear of touching the capacitor leads or any shiny solder spots on the back of the power supply.
Now that the hinge is free to move, your iMac might feel a bit wobbly and tricky to handle. But no worries! Fixing it up is a breeze with an iMac service wedge, though you can totally manage without one if needed.
If you’ve got the iFixit cardboard service wedge on hand, check out these assembly instructions to get it all set up.
– Before diving into your iMac adventure: Unplug the machine and give that power button a solid ten-second press to clear out any lingering energy from the power supply’s capacitors. Let’s make sure we’re ready to roll safely!
Tools Used
Step 2
The hub on the iMac Opening Tool is your best buddy here, preventing you from pushing the wheel in too deep. If you’re using a different tool, just remember to keep it no more than 3/8″ into the display. Going deeper could mean cutting through antenna cables, and nobody wants that kind of drama!
– Starting on the left side of the display, near the power button, slide the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear enclosure. A little finesse goes a long way—so take your time and ease it in smoothly.
Step 3
Always keep the handle behind the cutting wheel and push it forward. Pulling might yank the wheel right out of the handle, and that’s no fun at all!
– Think of the tool like a pizza cutter—just roll it through the gap and watch it smoothly slice through that foam adhesive right down the middle.
– Next, glide the tool up the left side of the display. Easy does it!
Step 4
– Keep that tool moving around the top left corner like a champ!
Step 5
– Slice through the sticky stuff at the top left corner of the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 6
Give that tool a few extra passes over what you’ve already cut—it’s like a victory lap for adhesive removal. The more you work it back and forth, the better the separation. A little patience goes a long way!
– Keep moving along the top edge of the display.
Step 7
– Slide the tool around the top-right corner of the screen like a pro. Keep it smooth and steady—you’ve got this!
Step 8
– Gently glide the tool down the right side of the display, giving it a little love as you go!
Step 9
Alright, time to make sure that adhesive doesn’t stand a chance! Run your tool back around the entire display—like a victory lap—to free up as much of that sticky stuff as possible. A clean separation now will make your next steps way smoother!
– Keep pushing that trusty opening tool all the way to the bottom of the right side of the display. You’re almost there!
Step 10
Hey, keep it light and breezy—but don’t push that plastic card in more than 3/8″, or you’ll risk messing up the internal components. Easy does it!
The opening tool has done most of the heavy lifting with the adhesive, but the display is still holding on a bit. Grab a plastic card to gently work through the last of the sticky stuff and free up the display. You got this!
– Let’s get that iMac set up, face-up, on a sturdy table. You’ve got this!
– Starting at the top right corner of your iMac, gently slide a plastic card between the display and the frame. Easy does it!
Step 11
– Carefully twist the plastic card sideways to start creating a small gap between the display and frame. Take your time with this.
– Go slow and keep it steady—you only need to create a gap of about 1/4″. No need to rush, just ease it open gently.
Step 12
Take a moment to pause before reaching the iSight camera; it’s a delicate little thing that deserves your attention!
– Glide the card smoothly toward the center of the display to tackle the remaining adhesive snug in the top right corner of the iMac—you’re almost there!
Step 13
– Slide that trusty plastic card back into the top right corner, and let it chill there for a bit to keep the adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 14
– Slide a second plastic card into the little opening between the display and the frame, right up at the top left corner of your iMac. You’re doing great!
Step 15
Just like on the other side, gently twist to give that stubborn adhesive some time to part ways. Remember, we want to treat that display glass with care – no need to push it to its limits!
– Carefully nudge the card upward to give the display and frame a bit more breathing room—just a smidge!
Step 16
– Gently guide the plastic card toward the center, pausing right before reaching the iSight camera.
Step 17
– Slide that trusty plastic card back into the top left corner like a pro!
Step 18
Lift that display carefully—just a few inches! The display data and power cables are still tethered to the logic board like a lifeline, so let’s keep things safe and steady.
If you encounter any sections that seem to be playing hard to get and won’t budge, take a breather from twisting and grab one of those cards to slice through the stubborn adhesive.
– Slide both plastic cards into position near the corners—just like slipping a backstage pass into your wallet. Now, gently twist the cards sideways to ease open the gap between the display and the case. No rush, slow and steady wins this race!
– Now that you’ve got some wiggle room, carefully lift the top of the display away from the frame. Think of it like opening a treasure chest—except, instead of gold doubloons, you’re unlocking the secret world of tech repairs!
Tools Used
Step 19
Lift that display up just enough to get a good look at the connector – about 8 inches should do the trick. Be careful not to pull it up too high, or you might put some unnecessary stress on those cables and their connections.
– Hold the display firmly with one hand, and use your other hand to carefully disconnect the display power cable.
Step 20
Make sure to gently wiggle that display data cable connector straight out of its cozy socket, keeping it parallel to the motherboard. This way, you’ll keep it safe and sound without any damage happening on your watch!
– While keeping one hand on the display for support, lift up the metal bracket that holds the display data cable in place.
– Gently tug the display data cable out of its socket on the logic board.
Step 21
Right now, there’s still a sneaky strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display that acts like a hinge, keeping the display snugly attached to the frame. To loosen this adhesive, give the display a gentle up-and-down wiggle a few times—it’s like a little dance party for your device!
– Gently raise the display to a nearly upright angle.
Step 22
Please take extra care to avoid touching the leads of the capacitor or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (highlighted in red).
If you happen to break one of those pesky adhesive strips before you’re done, just grab a plastic card and gently slice through the remaining sticky stuff. You’ve got this!
– Grab that little tab at the end of one of the bottom edge display adhesive strips and gently pull it up towards the top of the iMac. It’s like peeling a sticker, but way more satisfying!
– Now, do the same with the other adhesive strip and give it a good yank. You’re making great progress!
Step 23
Handle the display with care—it’s large, heavy, and made of glass, so treat it like the delicate masterpiece it is!
– Gently lift the display away from the frame—it’s like opening up a treasure chest! Go slow, and remove the display from the iMac.
– You might need to ease it up from one side first to work against the leftover adhesive. Patience is key here!
– Once the adhesive is cut, it’s game over for reusing it to seal the display. Don’t sweat it though—stick to this guide for replacing the adhesive strips to secure the display back to the rear enclosure.
Step 24
– Grab your spudger and use the tip to gently pop down that metal retaining bracket on the camera cable like a pro.
Tools Used
Step 25
Make sure to disconnect only the camera connector. The microphone connector is on a separate part of the cable, so no need to worry about that one for now!
– Carefully tug the camera cable straight down to disconnect it from the socket on the camera board.
Step 26
– Unplug the microphone connector from its cozy spot on the camera board. Give it a gentle wiggle if it seems a bit stuck!
Step 27
– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift the metal retaining bracket that holds the camera cable connector securely to the logic board. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 28
This connector is a bit on the fragile side, so be extra gentle! When you’re removing it, make sure to pull it parallel to the logic board to avoid any accidental breaks.
– Gently unplug the camera cable by pulling it straight out from its connection on the logic board.
Step 29
If you’re having a bit of a meltdown trying to peel that pesky cable off the rear enclosure, grab a spudger and give it a little nudge. You’ve got this!
– Time to set that camera cable free! Gently peel it away from the rear enclosure – it’s held on with some sticky adhesive, so be patient and take your time.