Microsoft Surface Pro 5 Opening Procedure
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 22 Steps
Ready to dive into opening up the Surface Pro 5? This is just the warm-up act for another procedure, so keep that in mind—it’s not a solo mission! Follow these steps as part of the bigger repair journey, and you’ll be primed for the next stage.
Step 1
Make sure your Surface is completely powered off before diving in—let’s keep it chill and safe!
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to bring the heat, but don’t go overboard! Too much heat can mess up the screen or internal battery, and that’s not what we’re here for.
Keep your cool, but warm up the Surface! You might have to reheat and reapply the iOpener a few times to get it just right. Stick to the iOpener instructions so nothing gets too hot to handle.
– Got a cracked screen? No worries! To keep those pesky little shards in check and protect yourself from accidental ouchies, grab some clear packing tape. Lay down overlapping strips until every bit of that glass is covered. Safety first—pop on some safety goggles to shield those peepers!
– Warm up an iOpener and give the right edge of your Surface’s screen a cozy two-minute heat treatment. It’ll make the next steps a breeze!
Tools Used
Step 2
– Get familiar with the layout of the screen adhesive—it’s like a map for smooth sailing ahead.
– This zone here? It’s all adhesive, so you’re safe to cut without worries!
– Watch out near the edges! The display board and flex cables are hanging out close by. Slice gently and don’t go too deep under the display.
– Heads up for fragile antenna cables under this screen section! Stick to the guide and keep steady hands to avoid harm. Oh, and heads up—it’s also where the adhesive gets extra chunky!
Step 3
Keep the opening pick shallow—just till the black bezel on the screen’s side. Push it too far, and the LCD might end up crying for help.
– Slide an opening pick into the speaker slot on the screen and glide it gently under the glass. Be careful not to poke the pick into the speaker grille—it’s super delicate and tears easily!
Step 4
– Swing that pick towards the bottom of the Surface and glide it under the lower edge of the speaker cutout like a pro.
Step 5
If your pick isn’t gliding easily, pause for a moment and give the area a bit more heat. Forcing it too hard could lead to cracked glass—and nobody wants that! Take your time and keep it cool.
– Gently slide the pick along the right edge of your Surface to cut through the adhesive that’s holding the screen in place.
– Once you’re in, leave the pick there on the right edge to keep the adhesive from sealing itself back up.
Step 6
Be careful when applying heat – a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can be used for extra warmth, but don’t get too zealous, or you might damage the screen or internal battery. Heat can be a tricky thing, so proceed with caution!
You might need to get cozy with that iOpener and reheat it a few times to get your Surface nice and toasty. Just remember to follow the iOpener’s instructions so you don’t overdo it!
– Time to get this repair started! Reheat the iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the Surface’s screen for two minutes. This will help loosen things up and make the next steps a breeze.
Tools Used
Step 7
Keep the opening pick shallow—just till the black bezel on the screen’s side. Push it too far, and the LCD might end up crying for help.
– Pop a fresh opening pick into the bottom right corner and slide it around the edge toward the bottom. It’s like easing your way into a cozy chair, but for your device.
– Now, gently slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to slice through the screen adhesive. Just a smooth, steady glide—you’re almost there!
– Leave that pick in place along the bottom to stop the adhesive from sticking back together. You’ve got this!
Step 8
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can help bring the heat when needed, but stay cool about it—too much heat can fry the screen or battery faster than yesterday’s leftovers!
You might find yourself needing to give the iOpener a little extra love by reheating and reapplying it a few times to get that Surface nice and toasty. Remember to check the iOpener instructions to keep things from getting too hot to handle!
– Warm up that iOpener again, then give the left side of your Surface’s screen a cozy two-minute heat treatment. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 9
Heads up! When you’re working on the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge, be super gentle. Keep the opening pick at no more than 1/8 inches (3 mm) here—this area is home to the display cables, and they’re easily damaged. Once you get past the display cable zone, don’t insert the pick deeper than the bezel. Smooth moves keep things intact!
– Grab a new opening pick and gently slide it into the bottom left corner. Glide it smoothly around the corner toward the left edge—you’re doing great!
– Work that pick along the left edge of the Surface to slice through the sticky screen adhesive. Keep it steady and stay focused!
– Leave the pick snugly in the left edge to keep the adhesive from sticking back together. You’re nailing it!
Step 10
Feeling the heat? A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can kick things up a notch, but play it cool—overheating the Surface could make your screen and battery go on strike!
This edge has some thick, stubborn adhesive, so you might need to warm it up a few times with the iOpener before it’s ready to cooperate. Stick to the iOpener instructions to keep things safe and breezy—no overheating drama here.
– Time to get this repair started! Reheat the iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the Surface’s screen for two minutes. This will help loosen things up and make the repair process smoother.
Tools Used
Step 11
Now it’s time to tackle the top edge of the case. The next 6 inches (15 cm) are home to the left and right antennas, which are snugly sandwiched between the case and the screen bezel. Let’s get through these next steps with care – we don’t want any accidental antenna damage!
– Glide your opening pick around the left corner, then coast along the top edge of the Surface. Pause when you’re exactly 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left side—precision is key!
Step 12
Keep that pick sliding flat and steady along the screen—no antenna snags allowed! And hey, go easy on it; don’t go pressing the pick against the case.
– Gently slide the point of your pick under the display where you stopped cutting earlier. Just a heads up, don’t push the pick in too far, stick to the bezel’s edge.
– Now, carefully roll the pick to the right, pressing its long edge into the screen adhesive beneath the bezel. As you roll, you’ll be cutting through the adhesive. Keep your pick steady and avoid sliding it along the edge of the Surface.
– Repeat the process by inserting the pick where you last made a cut and roll it to the right, working along the top edge of the Surface. Keep going until you’ve moved about 2.5 inches (64 mm) from the right edge of the Surface.
Step 13
– Once you trim the adhesive above the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), guide the pick smoothly along the top edge, then curve it around the top right corner to clear out any lingering adhesive. Keep it steady, you’ve got this!
Step 14
Don’t jump the gun just yet! The screen is still hooked up to the motherboard by two sneaky cables, so hold off on removing it for now.
– Gently lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case, taking your time. If it feels stuck, pause and double-check that all the adhesive is fully separated—no need to rush!
– Grab an opening pick and slice through any stubborn bits of adhesive with confidence.
– Heads up—the flash lens might slip out of the Surface case! Make sure to keep an eye on it and pop it back into its spot during reassembly like a pro.
Step 15
– Gently lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case, and slide the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors—think of it like gently peeling a sticker off the surface, but with more precision.
– Now, carefully lay the screen down on the case with the connectors facing up. Keep those display cables safe and sound—no sharp bends or creases here!
Step 16
Be gentle with that shield—you’re going to put it back on when you’re wrapping this up, so keep it looking sharp.
– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently shimmy it under one edge of the EMI shield that’s hugging the display board—go slow and steady, no rush!
– Work your way around the shield, hitting different spots and prying carefully until it gives up and pops off.
Step 17
– Gently lift the EMI shield off the display board—almost like you’re revealing a secret—and set it aside.
Step 18
– Gently use the flat end of a spudger to pop the display interconnect cable straight up and out of its snug little socket on the board—nice and easy, no rush!
Tools Used
Step 19
Be gentle with that shield—it’s going to be a temporary parting, and you’ll want it to fit nicely when you put it back together later.
– Take one side of your pointed tweezers and gently slip it into a gap on the edge of the EMI shield covering the digitizer connector.
– Now, use the tweezers to carefully lift the EMI shield away from the display, but try not to bend it. Just a little wiggle goes a long way.
– Move around the shield, repeating this process in a few spots, until it’s fully free. Once it’s loose, go ahead and remove it.
Tools Used
Step 20
– Gently peel away the rest of the shield covering the digitizer connector—you’re almost there! Then, take it off completely.
Step 21
– Gently use the edge of your spudger to pop the digitizer connector straight up—it’s like unplugging a tiny puzzle piece—right out of its snug little socket on the screen!
Tools Used
Step 22
– Carefully detach the screen assembly from the Surface—it’s like peeling apart two besties. Take your time!
– When putting it all back together, hit pause here and check out this guide for replacing that screen adhesive. Trust me, it’s worth the extra effort!
