Microsoft Surface Pro 5 Heat Sink Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 30 Steps
Heads-up: There’s a fair chance the delicate display panel could crack under pressure during this step. Take your time and handle it gently!
Get ready to give your Microsoft Surface Pro 5 a brand new Heat Sink! This step-by-step guide will walk you through the process. Pro tip: applying fresh thermal paste to the CPU during reassembly can give your Surface a nice performance boost. Just make sure you’ve got some new thermal paste and a cleaning solution like high-concentration isopropyl alcohol or a specialized thermal paste cleaner on hand. One thing to keep in mind – the display panel can be pretty fragile, so be gentle and patient during the prying stage, and don’t be afraid to apply some heat to make things easier. If you’re not feeling confident, don’t worry – we’ve got you covered.
Step 1
Before you start, make sure to power down your Surface completely – we don’t want any unexpected surprises!
If you need a little extra heat, a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can be your new BFF. Just be careful not to get too hot and heavy – your Surface’s screen and battery are sensitive to heat, so let’s keep things cool.
Keep your cool, but warm up the Surface! You might have to reheat and reapply the iOpener a few times to get it just right. Stick to the iOpener instructions so nothing gets too hot to handle.
– Got a cracked screen? Let’s keep those shards under control and keep you safe! Grab some clear packing tape and layer it over the glass—overlapping strips until it’s all covered. And hey, don’t forget to rock those safety glasses to shield your eyes!
– Heat up an iOpener and cozy it up to the right edge of the Surface’s screen for a solid two minutes. Think of it as giving your device a warm hug!
Tools Used
Step 2
– Before diving in, give a quick glance at the screen adhesive layout: it’s your roadmap!
– These sections are just smooth adhesive land, so feel free to cut without a worry.
– The display board and flex cables are hanging out close to the edge. Slice carefully and avoid pushing the pick too deep under the display.
– Watch out for the delicate antenna cables hiding under this part of the screen! Follow the steps closely to keep them safe. Plus, this area has the thickest adhesive, so take your time!
Step 3
Keep the opening pick shallow—just till the black bezel on the screen’s side. Push it too far, and the LCD might end up crying for help.
– Slide an opening pick into the speaker slot on the screen and gently work it under the glass. Be careful not to poke into the speaker grille—it’s delicate and can tear easily.
Step 4
– Swing that pick towards the bottom of the Surface and smoothly slide it under the lower edge of the speaker cutout.
Step 5
As you go through this step, if the pick feels like it’s stuck, don’t force it—take a breather and reheat the area you’re working on. Pushing too hard could leave you with cracked glass, and no one wants that.
– Glide your pick gently down the right edge of the Surface—slice through that sticky adhesive like a pro.
– Leave your trusty pick snugly in the right edge to keep the adhesive from staging a comeback.
Step 6
Feeling the heat? A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can kick things up a notch, but play it cool—overheating the Surface could make your screen and battery go on strike!
You might need to warm up the Surface a few times with the iOpener to get it just right. Remember to follow the iOpener’s instructions closely to keep things from getting too hot.
– Warm up your iOpener and then let it do its magic on the bottom edge of the Surface’s screen for about two minutes. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 7
Be careful not to insert the opening pick too far into the screen – stop at the black bezel to avoid damaging the LCD. We want your repair to go smoothly!
– Slide a fresh opening pick into the bottom right corner and gently glide it around the corner toward the bottom edge.
– Carefully slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to slice through the screen adhesive.
– Keep this pick in place along the bottom edge to stop that adhesive from getting all clingy again.
Step 8
Feeling the heat? A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can kick things up a notch, but play it cool—overheating the Surface could make your screen and battery go on strike!
You might need to heat up and reapply the iOpener a few times to make sure the Surface gets nice and toasty. Just keep an eye on the instructions to avoid getting it too hot!
– Time to get this repair started! Reheat the iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the Surface’s screen for two minutes. This will help loosen things up and make the next steps a breeze.
Tools Used
Step 9
Hey there, repair pro! Be super careful when slicing under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge—it’s a tight spot. Keep your opening pick shallow, no more than 1/8 inches (3 mm), because the display cables are hanging out nearby and don’t want to be disturbed. Once you’re past the cable zone, remember not to push the pick beyond the bezel. Patience and precision are key here!
– Pop a new opening pick into the bottom left corner, then glide it cheerfully around the corner toward the left edge—smooth moves!
– Scoot the pick along the left edge of the Surface to slice through that stubborn screen adhesive like a pro.
– Let this pick chill in the left edge to keep the adhesive from sticking itself back together. Nice work!
Step 10
Be careful when applying heat – a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can be used for extra warmth, but don’t get too zealous, or you might damage the screen or internal battery. Heat can be a tricky thing, so proceed with caution!
This edge has some thick, stubborn adhesive, so you might need to warm it up a few times with the iOpener before it’s ready to cooperate. Stick to the iOpener instructions to keep things safe and breezy—no overheating drama here.
– Heat up the iOpener and place it gently on the top edge of your Surface’s screen. Let it work its magic for about two minutes.
Tools Used
Step 11
Now it’s time to tackle the top edge of the case. The next 6 inches (15 cm) are home to the left and right antennas, which are snugly sandwiched between the case and the screen bezel. Let’s get through these next steps with care – we don’t want any accidental antenna damage!
– Gently round off the left corner using your opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when you’re about 2.75 inches (70 mm) from the left side, and take a moment to admire your progress.
Step 12
Keep that pick leveled with the screen the whole time so it doesn’t snag the antennas. And hey, no need to jab the pick against the case—gentle hands win the day!
– Gently slide the tip of your pick under the display where you last paused your cutting adventure. Just a friendly reminder: keep it shallow—no deeper than the bezel’s edge!
– Now, let’s roll! Carefully pivot the pick to the right, pressing its long edge into the screen adhesive hiding beneath the bezel. As you roll along, you’ll be slicing through that sticky stuff like a pro. Just remember, no sliding along the edge of the Surface—keep it classy!
– Keep the momentum going! Insert the tip of your pick right where you just made your cut and continue rolling to the right along the top edge of the Surface. Do this until your pick is 2.5 inches (64 mm) away from the right edge of the Surface. You’re doing great!
Step 13
– Now that you’ve cut the adhesive near the antennas (about 8.5 inches or 22 cm from the left edge), it’s time to keep moving! Slide the pick along the top edge of the surface, curving it around the top right corner to cut through any remaining adhesive. You’re making great progress!
Step 14
Hold up! The screen’s still hanging on—it’s connected to the motherboard by two cables, so don’t pull it off just yet.
– Gently and carefully lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If it feels like it’s stuck, pause and double-check that all the adhesive has been loosened.
– Grab an opening pick and slice through any adhesive that’s being stubborn.
– Heads up: The flash lens might decide to pop out of the Surface case. Keep tabs on it, and during reassembly, make sure it finds its way back to its cutout in the case.
Step 15
– Tilt the top of the screen assembly up and away from the case while nudging the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors—smooth moves, no jerky business!
– Gently rest the screen flat on the case with the connectors facing upward. Be mindful of those delicate display cables—treat them like VIPs and avoid any creasing drama!
Step 16
Be gentle with that shield—don’t bend it too much, as you’ll need to pop it back in place later during reassembly.
– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently nudge one edge of the EMI shield that’s snugly hugging the display board.
– Keep the momentum going and repeat this at various spots around the shield until it decides to break free.
Step 17
– Slide that EMI shield off the display board like a pro and set it aside. You’re doing great!
Step 18
– Grab the flat end of your spudger and gently nudge the display interconnect cable straight up—it’ll pop right out of its socket on the board. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 19
Be gentle with the shield—it’s coming back during reassembly, so we don’t want to bend it out of shape. Handle with care!
– Grab a pair of pointy tweezers and gently sneak one tip into the edge gap of the EMI shield that’s hiding the digitizer connector.
– Work those tweezers like a pro and carefully nudge the EMI shield away from the display—just don’t bend it out of shape!
– Keep doing your thing, prying around different spots on the shield until it finally pops free. Once it’s loose, go ahead and take it off.
Tools Used
Step 20
– Gently yank the shield off the digitizer connector like you’re peeling a sticker, and set it aside gracefully.
Step 21
– Gently use the edge of your spudger to pop the digitizer connector straight up—it’s like unplugging a tiny puzzle piece—right out of its snug little socket on the screen!
Tools Used
Step 22
– Carefully lift off the screen assembly from the Surface.
– When putting it back together, take a moment here to check out this guide for replacing the screen adhesive—your future self will thank you!
Step 23
– Carefully use the tip of a spudger to gently pry the microphone connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Make sure to handle it with precision to avoid any damage.
Tools Used
Step 24
– Let’s get started by using a T5 Torx driver to remove the four screws that hold the antenna support in place:
– You’ll need to remove three 4.5 mm screws – they’re the smaller ones
– And one 6 mm screw – this one’s a bit bigger, so make sure you’ve got the right size
Step 25
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the antenna support up from its snug little spot on the Surface—easy does it!
– Once it’s free, remove the antenna support and set it aside like the champ you are.
Tools Used
Step 26
Be gentle with the shield—it’s going back in place when all’s said and done, so keep it looking sharp!
Watch out with those tweezers! They’re great tools but don’t let them poke holes in the battery while you’re working on that shield.
– Slide one point of your trusty pointed tweezers into the little gap at the corner of the EMI shield that’s covering up the heat sink.
– Gently wiggle and pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard, but don’t go overboard bending it—keep it cool and leave it in place for now!
Tools Used
Step 27
– Go ahead and repeat that last move for each corner of the EMI shield sitting over the heat sink. You’ve got this!
Step 28
– Pop off the heat sink shield—it’s like giving your device a little breather.
Step 29
– Time to tackle the heat sink! First, pop out those ten Torx screws holding it in place:
– When you’re putting the heat sink back, give those screws a good criss-cross tightening—one turn at a time until they’re snug as a bug:
– Here’s the crew to look out for: Five 2.6 mm T3 screws and Four 3.3 mm T5 screws.
– Remember our trusty Screw Buddies? Let’s tighten them in this order: Screw 1, Screw 2, Screw 3, Screw 4.
Step 30
Be gentle with those heat sink pipes—no dents or creases here, they’re delicate!
– Compare the new replacement parts with the old ones—sometimes you’ll need to shift components or peel off adhesive before popping them into place.
– To rebuild your gadget, just work backwards through these steps!
– Keep the planet happy—drop off your electronic waste at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
– Got stuck? No biggie! Try some simple troubleshooting tricks, or give our Answers community a shout for extra help.
– If the process feels overwhelming or something’s not quite right, you can always schedule a repair.
