DIY Guide: Nintendo Switch Lite Heat Sink Replacement Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 16 Steps
Ready to tackle the heat sink on your Nintendo Switch Lite? Let’s do this! This little console uses JIS screws, but don’t worry—your trusty Phillips screwdriver can pinch-hit if needed. Take it easy with the screws, though; stripping them would be a major buzzkill. Oh, and heads up: you’ll need to remove the shield plate and heat sink for this procedure. Make sure to clean off the old thermal paste from both components and the CPU, and don’t forget to reapply fresh paste before putting everything back together. You got this!
Step 1
Before you dive into this repair adventure, make sure your device is totally powered down and ready for some TLC!
Stay organized and keep those screws in check! Make sure each one goes back to its original spot, so your device goes back together smoothly.
– Let’s get started by removing the four 6.3mm-long screws from the back panel using a trusty Y00 screwdriver. This is the first step in giving your device a brand new lease on life!
Step 2
When dealing with stubborn screws, make sure to press down firmly, go slow, and if they’re still being a pain, try switching up your screwdriver. Patience is key, and you’ll get there!
– Grab your trusty JIS 000 driver or the official iFixit PH 000 driver and let’s get those screws out! We’re looking to remove the screws holding the back panel in place:
– First up, there are two 3.6 mm-long screws at the top of the device.
– And don’t forget the two 3.6 mm-long screws at the bottom of the device.
Step 3
Keep it chill—don’t push that opening tool too deep, or you might give the speaker module an unplanned makeover!
– Let’s get started! Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of your device – it’s time to crack it open.
– Now it’s time to twist the opening tool to release the clips that are holding the back panel in place. Easy does it!
Step 4
– Gently glide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to pop those clips loose on the left side of your device. You’ve got this!
Step 5
Keep that opening tool at a safe distance—no need to go deeper than necessary to avoid causing a ruckus with the speaker module.
– Slide an opening tool into the right speaker grille at the bottom of the device—like you’re slipping a letter into a mail slot.
– Give that tool a little twist to pop those clips loose. You got this!
Step 6
– Gently slide and wiggle the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to pop those clips loose on the right side of your device. You’ve got this!
Step 7
– Keep nudging and wiggling that opening tool along the top edge of your device to pop those clips free!
Step 8
– Gently lift the bottom edge of the back panel and open it up like you’re flipping through a book.
– Carefully remove the back panel and set it aside.
Step 9
– Grab a JIS 000 driver or an official PH 000 driver and get ready to tackle these screws:
– Three 3.1 mm screws
– One 4.5 mm screw
Step 10
You might feel a little resistance, but don’t worry—that’s totally normal. The shield plate is just a bit snug with the heat sink because of the thermal paste.
– Grab your trusty spudger or just use your fingers to gently lift that shield plate up and out of the device. Easy peasy!
– Say goodbye to the shield plate as you remove it.
– Time to get a little clean! Use some isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to scrub off the old thermal paste from both the shield plate and the heat sink. Once it’s nice and clean, apply a fresh layer of thermal paste to the heat sink before putting everything back together.
Tools Used
Step 11
– Grab your trusty opening tool or just use your fingernail to gently lift up that little hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable’s ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
Step 12
Avoid using metal tweezers! Some folks say that metal tweezers can cause a short circuit in the ribbon cable or connector. It’s a good idea to stick to nylon-tipped or ceramic-tipped tweezers for a safer fix.
– Grab your trusty tweezers and carefully slide that interconnect cable out of its cozy little spot on the motherboard. Easy does it!
Tools Used
Step 13
– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up and out of its cozy little home on the motherboard.
Tools Used
Step 14
Just peel back the foam just enough to let the fan breathe.
– Gently lift the foam that’s sticking to the fan using the flat end of a spudger or your fingers. Take your time and be careful—it’s like peeling a sticker off a new gadget!
Tools Used
Step 15
– Grab a JIS 000 driver or an official PH 000 driver from your toolkit and carefully unscrew the three 3 mm screws that are holding the heat sink snugly to the motherboard. You’ve got this!
Step 16
You might encounter a little pushback here, which is totally normal! The heat sink has a slight bond with the CPU thanks to some thermal paste making things cozy.
– Now it’s time to put your device back together—just retrace your steps like a pro!
– Got some old tech lying around? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
– If things didn’t go as smoothly as you hoped, don’t sweat it! Give some basic troubleshooting a shot, or swing by our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for a helping hand.
– Remember, you’re not alone in this journey!
Tools Used
Success!
