Xbox Series X Motherboard Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 58 Steps
Alright, let’s start by turning off your gadget and unplugging all those cables. Safety first, rockstar!
Ready to swap out the motherboard on your Xbox Series X? Or maybe it’s time to freshen up that thermal paste? Either way, you’re in the right place! Just make sure your Xbox is powered off, and all cables are unplugged before you dive in. And of course, always keep those electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety tips in mind while working. If things get tricky, you can always schedule a repair to get the job done.
Step 2
To make sticker removal a breeze, use an iOpener or hair dryer to gently heat it up.
Peel back the sticker just enough to access the hidden screw – no need to remove it completely.
These tamper-evident stickers are no match for your DIY skills! As long as you’re careful, you won’t void your warranty. Have fun with your repair!
– Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently lift that big sticker off the back panel to uncover the hidden second screw. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 3
Throughout this repair, keep a close eye on every screw and make sure it goes back to its original spot to keep your console in tip-top shape.
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and unscrew the two 7.4mm-long screws holding the back panel in place. With those out of the way, you’ll be one step closer to getting inside!
Step 6
– Get a good grip on the back panel where you just opened it and lift it up and away from the shell to unclip those long edges.
– When putting it back together, press along the edges of the back panel to snap it back into place.
Step 7
The back panel fits snugly into a groove at the top of the shell.
– Gently lift the back panel from the top edge, and give it a little pull to release it from the gap.
– Now, simply remove the back panel and set it aside.
Step 8
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get to work! First up, we need to take out the three screws holding the fan snugly to the center chassis. Here’s what you’ll be looking for:
– One 10.5 mm pancake screw (yum, but don’t eat it!)
– Two 8.8 mm screws – these little guys are ready to be unscrewed!
Step 9
Always grab those cables by their connectors, not the wires! Treat them with care and they’ll thank you later.
– Alright, let’s do this! Grab the edges of that fan cable connector with your fingers or some blunt tweezers, and give it a good pull upwards to disconnect it from the center chassis.
– When you’re putting it all back together, make sure to route the fan cable under its little cable guide on the fan housing to keep it out of the way of the back panel.
Tools Used
Step 10
Step 12
Sometimes you gotta hold that locking tab open while getting the base started, like a pro!
Once it’s locked in place, the ‘Hello from Seattle’ line will be perfectly parallel with the device’s sides. Nice job!
– Grab the base and give it a counterclockwise twist to free it from the shell.
– Take off the base.
– When putting things back together, drop the base tabs into their spots on the shell and give it a clockwise twist until it clicks into place. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 13
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get to work! Carefully unscrew those two 8.8 mm screws that are holding the optical drive’s vibration isolator snugly in place—one’s hanging out on the base, and the other is chilling on the top of the isolator. You’ve got this!
Step 14
The vibration isolator hugs the sides of the optical drive with silicone pads, so you’ll need to carefully shimmy the isolator off each side to remove it.
– Gently lift up the optical drive’s vibration isolator to detach it.
– During reassembly, be sure to push the vibration isolator down and wrap it around both edges of the optical drive, so it sits snugly with the rest of the center chassis.
Step 15
Always grab those cables by their connectors, not the wires! Treat them with care and they’ll thank you later.
– Time to get a grip! Use a trusty pair of blunt tweezers to carefully grasp the edges of the optical drive power connector, and then gently pull up to release it from the optical drive.
– Now, let’s get that data cable disconnected. Simply use your fingers to pull up and release the cable from the optical drive – easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 16
If the drive is a bit wonky, you might hit a snag when trying to install the top vibration isolator – it just won’t fit quite right. And to make matters worse, your disc reader will be out of whack with the front of the console. Let’s get that sorted!
– Hold the top edge of the optical drive and slide it out of its slot in the shell to remove it.
– When putting things back together, make sure the pegs on the bottom edge of the optical drive fit into the guide holes on the bottom of the shell.
Step 17
Handle those ribbon cables and their connectors with care—they’re as delicate as a butterfly! Gently open those locking tabs and take your time pulling the cables. You’ve got this!
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently flip open the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, just snap that metal locking tab back into place after inserting the cable. Easy peasy!
Tools Used
Step 18
Give that pull tab a gentle tug—just don’t yank the cable itself.
If the USB port cable seems stuck to the metal frame, give it a little heat with an iOpener or hair dryer. Depending on your Xbox model, you might need to sneak an opening pick under the cable to loosen the adhesive. Keep going, you’re doing great!
– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently tug on the black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 19
Tug on the pull tab, not the cable, friend.
Press the metal tab before pulling on the cable, or you might mess up the cable or the connector.
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently press down on the metal tab next to the power button cable’s board connector. You’ve got this!
– With that tab pressed down, take a pair of tweezers and give the pull tab a little tug to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis. Easy peasy!
– When you’re putting everything back together, just slide the cable in until you hear a light ‘snap’—that’s it locking into place like it belongs there!
Step 20
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get to work! Carefully unscrew those three 7.4 mm screws that are holding the center chassis assembly snugly in place. You’ve got this!
Step 21
Depending on your Xbox model, the sticky stuff might be hiding under the cable. If that’s the case, grab an iOpener or a hair dryer to warm it up!
– Carefully peel off the taped USB port ribbon cable from the heatsink.
Tools Used
Step 22
The center chassis lines up with the shell thanks to guide pegs. To lift out the chassis, slide these pegs out of their slots.
– Grab the center chassis and gently pull it towards the green fan grille at the top of the shell. As you do this, the guide pegs should release from the shell, making it easy to remove.
– Carefully lift the center chassis assembly out of the shell. It’s like a puzzle piece – just pull it out and set it aside.
– When you’re putting everything back together, be sure to keep an eye on those ribbon cables. You don’t want them to get pinched as you lower the center chassis back into the shell. Take your time and make sure everything is in its place.
Step 23
– Pop open that chassis strap on the right side of the power supply.
Step 24
– Whip that chassis strap off the power supply like you’re pulling a party popper!
– With the strap out of the way, gently place the loose section to the side.
Step 25
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and remove the trio of screws holding the power cable port to the chassis:
– Two screws measuring 13.1 mm each
– One screw measuring 35 mm
Step 26
– Gently pop the power connector out of its cozy little spot in the chassis.
Step 27
– Pop open the lid on the power cable’s plastic guide with a gentle nudge.
Step 28
– Gently pull the power cable out from beneath the extra section of the cable guide. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and carefully unscrew the 8.8 mm screw that holds the power supply corner cover in place. You’ve got this!
Step 31
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those three 9.6 mm screws holding the accessory antenna board snugly to the center chassis. You’ve got this!
Step 32
– Grab the antenna board and pull it straight out from the center chassis to disconnect it.
– When putting it back together, line up the board’s connector with the port on the center chassis and press to reconnect.
Step 33
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those nine screws holding down the board shield:
– Six sleek 8.8 mm black screws
– Two shiny 35 mm silver screws
– One petite 13.1 mm silver screw
Step 34
– Gently lift up the board shield and pop it out from the center chassis.
Step 35
– Unplug the chassis strap from the locking tabs on both sides of the power supply. Take it easy, and make sure you’re gentle with it!
Step 36
– Take off that chassis strap!
Step 37
When handling cables, remember to grip the connectors, not the wires – it’s easier on the cables and your nerves!
– Get a grip on that 10-pin power connector and squeeze the locking tab – it’s time to set it free!
– Now, while you’re holding the locking tab down, gently lift the connector straight up to disconnect it from the board. Easy does it!
Step 38
With the tabs pressed down just right, the interconnect cable will slide out super easily.
– Grab the base of the interconnect cable connector with your fingers.
– Squeeze each side of the connector to unlock the cable locking tabs.
– With the tabs squeezed, grip the edges of the interconnect cable and pull it straight out to disconnect.
– When putting it back together, the interconnect cable should ‘snap’ into place when fully inserted.
Step 39
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and tackle those three shiny 35 mm-long silver screws on the power supply—just remember to leave that fourth black screw snug in its spot!
Step 40
– Grab the edges of the center chassis (steer clear of the power supply) and gently lift it off the motherboard and heatsink assembly, making sure to guide the interconnect cable through its designated cutout. You’re doing great!
Step 41
The SSD shield has thermal pads on both sides, so do your best to keep them intact during this step. You got this!
Step 42
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get that 5.2mm screw outta there to free the SSD!
Step 43
Once you’ve taken out the SSD screw, the SSD will gracefully lift up at a slight angle, ready for its next adventure.
– Grab the end of the SSD and gently wiggle it away from its M.2 board connector to set it free.
– When putting it back together, angle the SSD slightly as you slide it into its board connector, then lay it flat and secure it with the SSD screw.
Step 44
Got an interconnect cable with a middle locking tab? You’re good—skip ahead!
Press those locking tabs just right, and the interconnect cable should slide out without much effort.
– Grab the interconnect cable connector with your fingers.
– Press both sides of the connector to release the cable locking tabs.
– With the tabs pressed, pull the interconnect cable straight out of the connector to disconnect it.
– Remove the interconnect cable.
– When reassembling, make sure the interconnect cable ‘snaps’ into place when fully inserted.
Step 45
– Gently pinch the locking tab on the interconnect cable attached to the motherboard. Grab the flat end of your spudger and carefully release the clip. Easy does it!
– Now, use your fingers to gently lift the connector straight up and out of its socket. No need to rush—just a steady pull!
– When putting things back together, first insert the #1—SOC side of the interconnect cable connector into its socket with the locking tab facing outward. Once it’s in place, press down on the edges of the connector until you hear it snap. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 46
Take extra care not to mess with the components around the metal shield – they’re a little delicate and need your gentle touch.
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the edges of the big metal shield sitting in the middle of the motherboard and lift it up with care.
Tools Used
Step 47
– Time to say goodbye to that metal shield! Gently remove it and keep it safe for later.
– As you put everything back together, don’t forget to place the shield back in position. Give it a nice, firm push around the edges to make sure it’s snug and secure!
Step 48
Gently loosen and tighten the APU tension bracket screws a little at a time, following an ‘X’ pattern. Think of it like a dance: start at the top left, then glide to the bottom right, shimmy to the top right, and finish with a smooth move to the bottom left.
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those four APU tension bracket screws, each measuring a cool 12.3 mm long. You’ve got this!
Step 49
Keep that APU bracket steady! Wobbling it side to side could put a dent in those sensitive surface-mounted components hiding underneath. Just lift it straight up like a pro!
– Pop off the APU bracket with your fingers and lift it straight up to remove.
– When reassembling, place the bracket so the black plastic bits face the motherboard’s long edges—the round hole (not the oblong one) should be closer to the interconnect cable socket. Refer to the photo for guidance.
Step 50
Hey there! If the thermal paste and putty are sticking around a bit too much, your board might be clinging to the heatsink assembly like it’s best friends with it. No worries! Just grab a trusty spudger and gently lift the edges of the board to break up that bond. You’ve got this!
– Gently lift the motherboard straight up and off the heatsink to set it free.
– When you’re putting it back together, take care to position the board onto the heatsink with the APU side facing down. Keep in mind there’s some thermal paste hanging out on the bottom of the board, so use those alignment pegs to guide you. If you need to adjust the board, just be cautious, as it might spread that thermal paste around a bit.
Tools Used
Step 51
– Take a peek at the thermal putty—it’s chilling on the heatsink and/or the motherboard.
– If any pieces are looking rough or dried out, follow the next four steps to swap them out.
– If you’re just dealing with the thermal paste, skip ahead to this step.
Step 52
Watch out for those sneaky little surface-mounted components lurking under the thermal pad! Take it slow and steady to avoid accidentally popping them off.
– Gently take the flat end of a spudger and carefully scrape away the damaged thermal pad. Take your time and be gentle—you’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 53
When working near those tiny resistors, grab a cotton swab instead of your usual tools. It’ll help you stay precise and avoid any accidental mishaps.
– Grab some isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free microfiber cloth to gently wipe away any pesky thermal putty residue. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 54
To keep that sticky thermal putty off your fingers, throw on some nitrile gloves. Trust us, your hands will thank you!
– Grab a small piece of thermal putty. Check out the size of the thermal pad you’re replacing to see how much you need.
Step 55
– Roll that thermal putty into a nice little ball.
– Pop the thermal putty where that damaged thermal pad used to chill, making sure it’s centered over the component—in this case, a memory chip.
– If you’re feeling fancy, you can use the flat end of a spudger (or an included applicator) to spread the thermal putty over the surface of the component.
Tools Used
Step 56
When you’re working near those tiny resistors, swap out the tweezers for a cotton swab. It’s a much safer bet to keep everything in place and avoid any accidental damage.
– Grab your trusty spudger and carefully scrape off the old thermal paste from the processor. Make sure you’re gentle, we don’t want any accidents!
– Add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) onto the processor. Use a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth to gently wipe away any leftover residue. Nice and clean, just like new!
Tools Used
Step 57
– Give that thermal paste on the heat sink some love by repeating the last step!
Step 58
– Time to put your device back together! Just retrace your steps and follow these instructions in reverse.
– Got some e-waste? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. Let’s keep our planet happy!
– If things didn’t go as smoothly as you hoped, don’t sweat it! Give some basic troubleshooting a shot, or swing by our Xbox Series X Answers community for a little extra support.
– Changed your mind? No worries, just hit cancel and take a breather.
–
