Netgear Nighthawk AX8 8-Stream AX6000 WiFi Router Teardown
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 13 Steps
I put this guide together because, well, there wasn’t one before! My Nighthawk AX8 / RAX80 / AX6000 tends to overheat when it’s working hard for extended periods. I figured I’d try disassembling the router and applying some thermal paste to keep things cooler. Unfortunately, the crucial parts are hidden behind a soldered-on PCB shield, and only thermal tape helps transfer heat to the heatsink. On top of that, the thermal sensors that trigger the fan are set to such a high threshold that the router is pretty much guaranteed to overheat and crash before the fan kicks in. So, here I am, stuck with a device that’s unreliable. But hey, with your skills and this guide, you might just come up with a better thermal solution. Good luck, and may the coolness be with you!
Step 1
– Gently lift up each antenna wing, then fold it back down, just like when the router first came out of the box.
Step 2
– Start by peeling off the four rubber pads—underneath you’ll find four Torx T10 screws ready to be unscrewed.
– Pro tip: There’s a little divot under the serial number sticker, but don’t worry—there’s no hidden screw. No need to mess with the sticker at all.
Step 3
– Flip the router back over—get ready for some screw action.
– Use your Torx T7 driver to take out the screws on the far left and far right of both antenna wings. Easy does it!
Step 4
– Give that router a little flip, like you’re flipping a pancake. Now, gently pull up on the bottom plate to take it off.
Step 5
– Heads up: The router’s mainboard isn’t attached to the shell anymore, but be careful when trying to take it out – pulling too hard might mess with those delicate antenna wires and the ribbon cable.
– The antenna and fan wires are held in place with some tape.
– Use your tweezers to gently peel the tape off each wire.
Step 6
– Each antenna is connected to the mainboard with a simple snap connector.
– Gently lift each snap connector using your fingers or a plastic spudger. Pro tip: Label them from top to bottom to make reassembly a breeze.
– The antenna wires are routed through little ‘teeth’ on the board. Carefully slide the wires out of each one.
Step 7
– Check out the lower-right corner where you’ll spot a ribbon cable snuggled up to the mainboard.
– Grab a thin spudger or your trusty fingernail to gently lift that little black clip. Remember, it doesn’t swing all the way to the left, so don’t force it!
– Now, slide that ribbon cable out to the right like a pro!
Step 8
– Gently tilt the mainboard up so it leans toward the ethernet ports.
– Slide the mainboard a bit forward, away from the ethernet ports—it should come out smoothly.
Step 9
– Flip the mainboard so the heat sink and fan are facing you, like you’re about to start an epic repair battle.
– Find the fan connector chilling in the upper-left corner of the mainboard. It’s hanging out, just waiting for you.
– Gently pull the fan connector upwards. Give it a little lift, no need to rush. It’s not going anywhere.
Step 10
– Give the mainboard another flip so the bottom side is facing you.
– Grab your Torx T10 bit and take out the six screws holding things together.
Step 11
– Flip the mainboard over so you’re looking at the heat sink and fan. Don’t worry about the components coming off—the mainboard and heat sink are snugly held together with thermal pads.
– You might need to apply a little muscle here to separate the heat sink from the mainboard. A bit of pressure should do the trick.
– You’ll hear a peeling or tearing sound, but that’s just the thermal pads letting go from the PCB shields. Nothing to stress about—it’s just the pads doing their thing.
Step 12
– Here we have the heat sink and mainboard hanging out together, just chillin’.
– The shiny metal bits on the mainboard are the PCB shields, and guess what? They’re all soldered in place, nice and secure!
– The thermal pads for the lower two PCB shields are thicker and snugly fit into a little groove on the shield.
– The thermal pad for the upper PCB shield is a bit on the slimmer side and simply makes contact with the shield instead of nesting in a groove.
– Oh, and that thermal pad in the middle of the board? It’s just there to keep things stable and steady.
Step 13
– Start by removing the 55mm fan from underneath the heat sink—it’s as easy as a gentle lift.
– Flip the heatsink over so those thermal pads are facing you—think of it as giving it a quick hello.
– Next, carefully peel away the two thermal pads covering the fan screws—no need to rush, take your time.
– Grab a Torx T10 bit and unscrew the fan screws—you’re well on your way to a cooler, quieter device.