How to Replace Xbox 360 S Heat Sink – DIY Guide

– Get ready to tackle those thirteen clips holding the top vent to the top panel! In the next steps, you’ll be carefully removing it, so let’s roll up those sleeves and dive in!

– First things first! Make sure the console is positioned with the “XBOX 360” label facing the right way up, and the faceplate pointing to the left. We’re getting organized here!

– Next, grab your trusty metal spudger and slide it in between the top vent and the top bezel, just a bit towards the back of the Xbox. We’re about to get in there!

– Now, gently twist that spudger away from the console, lifting the edge of the fan vent up until those pesky plastic clips give way. You’re doing great!

– Let’s get this party started! Use your trusty metal spudger to slide between the fan vent and the top bezel on the left side of the console. You got this!

– Now, keeping the same energy, use your spudger to gently pry the left side of the top vent away from the top bezel. You’re making great progress!

– Keep on pryin’! Work your way along the left side of the device, freeing those clips one by one. You’re a rockstar!

– Gently lift the fan vent from the left side to pop those clips loose on the right side. You’re doing great!

– Now, go ahead and remove the whole fan vent. Easy peasy!

– Let’s get started! In the following steps, we’ll walk you through releasing the six clips highlighted in red. It’s easier than you think, and with these simple steps, you’ll be a pro in no time!

– Gently slide a metal spudger through the very first opening on the left edge of the top bezel, right between the bottom of the clip and the left casing, as we’ve gone over earlier.

– At the same time, twist the spudger away from the console and lift up on the top bezel to release that pesky clip.

– Just like we did before, gently pop free the last two clips along the left side of the top bezel. You’ve got this!

– Take hold of the top panel with both hands and gently lift the left edge high enough to let those pesky clips rest comfortably on the left case.

– If any clips decide to play hard to get and reattach themselves, just grab your trusty spudger and give them a little nudge to undo their mischief.

– Turn the console around so the back of the Xbox 360 S is pointing to your right, and the right side is looking right at you.

– Slide a metal spudger into the back-most gap on the right edge of the top bezel, right between the bottom of the clip and the right side.

– As you gently lift the top bezel with your fingers, twist the spudger away from the console to pop that clip free.

– Just like we did before, go ahead and unclip those middle and front clips along the right side of the top panel. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the top panel off your device, like you’re unveiling a surprise gift!

– If you encounter any clips that seem to have reattached themselves to the console, don’t worry! Just grab your trusty spudger and give them a little nudge to set them free.

– Slide that little latch over to the left, and let the hard drive cover breathe a bit.

– Gently coax the hard drive cover away from the console, like you’re giving it a friendly nudge.

– Grab that fabric tab marked with the hard drive size (like ‘250 GB’) and give it a good hold.

– Now, gently pull the hard drive straight out of the console. You’ve got this!

– It’s held snugly to the bottom panel with seven clips, just like the ones you’ve spotted!

– Slide a metal spudger into the gap between the black bottom vent and the shiny silver rim of the bottom bezel, right at the rear right corner of the vent.

– Gently twist the spudger away from the console, lifting the vent up from the bottom bezel with ease.

– Just like we did earlier, gently pry apart those last two little clips on the bottom right edge. You’re doing great!

– Now, let’s give that bottom vent a little lift! Gently pry it away from the bottom bezel, and you’ll be good to go.

– Let’s get that clip off! To detach the clips shown in red, carefully slide a metal spudger under the bottom edge. Then, gently pry the clip away from the console – it should come free with a little bit of effort. If you’re having trouble, don’t worry, it’s all part of the process!

– Carefully insert a metal spudger into the slit near the rear left corner of the bottom bezel – it’s time to get this repair started!

– Now, gently rotate the spudger away from the device while using your other hand to lift the rear bezel up – you’re making great progress!

– Slide a metal spudger into the left middle slit of the bottom bezel, sneaking it right between the bottom edge of the clip and the left case.

– While you’re at it, gently lift the bottom bezel up and twist the spudger away from the console to release that pesky clip.

– Now, just like before, go ahead and release the clip at the front of the bottom bezel’s left edge.

– Slide the spudger into the back slit on the right side of the bottom bezel. Give it a little nudge behind the clip by pushing down while pressing the tip against the right case. You’ve got this!

– At the same time, let go of that clip and gently lift the bottom bezel up. Easy peasy!

– Time to get started! Carefully insert a spudger between the silver rim and bottom bezel, positioning it directly above the clip shown – this is where the magic happens.

– Now, gently release the clip while pulling up on the bottom bezel. You’re making great progress!

– Time to get this repair started! Lift the left edge of the bottom bezel up just enough to get some clearance – you’re making great progress!

– Now, take a metal spudger and carefully insert it behind the left edge of the last clip. Gently push the clip away from the right case, and you’ll be one step closer to fixing your device.

– First, find the two clips that are snugly holding the right and left cases together at the top edge of the console, right behind the Wi-Fi card. You’ve got this!

– Now, with one hand, gently push the left and right cases apart while using a metal spudger to carefully pry those clips away from the case. Teamwork makes the dream work!

– Slide a spudger between the right and left cases to keep them apart while you tackle other tasks. Keep it cool and steady!

– As you gently push the left and right cases apart with one hand, take a moment to free that sneaky clip hiding next to the hard drive slot.

– Keep those cases separated to avoid those pesky clips from snapping back into place.

– Slide another spudger in between the left and right cases right beneath the clip.

– Let’s get started by inserting the flat edge of a metal spudger between the left and right cases, where the warranty sticker used to be – this is the first step to freeing your device from its outer shell.

– Next, gently pry the left case upwards to create a gap between the two cases, and carefully slide the spudger in toward the left case – you’re making great progress!

– Finally, rotate the spudger upward to release the last clip, and you’ll be one step closer to fixing your device – if you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Let’s get started by releasing one of the clips at the front left corner of the top edge, which holds the left case in place against the faceplate.

– Turn the console upside down so the bottom is facing up, ready for action!

– Release the little clip in the front left corner of the bottom edge that’s keeping the left case snug against the faceplate.

– Gently rotate the left case away from the device to pop free the last two hidden clips.

– Now, go ahead and remove the left case like a pro!

– Go ahead and pop that clip loose at the front right corner of the top edge—it’s holding the right case snug against the faceplate. You’ve got this!

– Give that little clip in the bottom right corner a gentle nudge to release it. It’s the one holding the right case snugly to the front case. You’ve got this!

– Gently nudge the left edge of the faceplate upwards to pop those last two clips free, letting the faceplate say goodbye to the right case.

– Carefully peel the faceplate away from the device like you’re taking off a cozy sweater.

– Grab your trusty spudger or just your fingernail and gently lift that clear blue tab away from the connector like you’re opening a secret door.

– Give the locking tab on the power switch board cable connector a little nudge toward the top of the console. You got this!

– Now, with a steady hand, pull the power switch cable straight out of the connector. Easy peasy!

– And voilà! The faceplate is now free from the rest of the console. Look at you go!

– Let’s get started by removing the two 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws that hold the RF module in place on the metal case.

– Gently tug the board straight out from the Xbox to free it up.

– Let’s get that wireless card out! First, unscrew the single T10 Torx screw holding it in place.

– Now, gently pull the Wi-Fi board out of the console. You got this!

– Peel off that big white sticker from the metal frame to reveal the hidden screw beneath. It’s like a little surprise waiting for you!

– Time to get those five 55.5 mm T10 Torx screws out! They’re holding the right case tight to the metal frame. Let’s do this!

– Gently detach the right case by lifting it away from its metal frame. Keep it steady as you go!

– Time to unplug the optical drive data cable from its cozy spot at the back of the optical drive.

– Now, let’s gently disconnect the power cable from the back of the optical drive, giving it a little breather.

– Gently lift the optical drive out of the Xbox – it’s time to set it free!

– Carefully take out the lone 11.3 mm gold T10 Torx screw located in the spot labeled ‘G.’

– Gently lift the fan duct away from the fan.

– Alright, let’s give this hard drive cable a little freedom! First, we’ll need to remove that single 9.2 mm T10 Torx screw holding the connector to the bracket.

– Now, gently lift the hard drive cable connector off the bracket. You’re doing great!

– Unscrew the 11.3 mm T10 Torx screw that’s keeping the hard drive bracket snug against the metal frame, right by the DC-In port. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the hard drive bracket out of its cozy spot in the metal frame. You’re making great progress!

– Time to give that fan cable a little farewell hug! Gently pull its connector off the logic board.

– Alright, let’s loosen those screws holding the fan to the heat sink. You’ll find two 11.7 mm Phillips screws – one in the bottom right corner and one in the top left corner of the fan.

– Now, gently lift the fan off the logic board assembly. It’s like giving it a little high-five!

– Alright, let’s get this show on the road! Time to detach the logic board assembly. There are 10 screws in total. Five of them are silver T10 Torx screws. They’re the ones in the holes marked ‘M,’ ‘N,’ ‘P,’ ‘R,’ and ‘T.’ You’ll want to use your trusty T10 Torx screwdriver for these guys, they’re 11.3 mm long. Next up, we’ve got four 5.6 mm black T9 Torx screws in the holes marked ‘D,’ ‘E,’ ‘J,’ and ‘K.’ No need to panic, just grab your T9 Torx screwdriver and go to town. Finally, there’s a single 11.3 mm gold T10 Torx screw in the hole marked ‘A.’ You got this!

– Alright, let’s get this party started! Give that optical drive retaining bracket a little lift and gently remove it from the logic board. You’ve got this!

– Get a good grip on the heat sink with one hand, and hold the metal frame steady with the other.

– Now, gently lift the logic board assembly out of the metal frame. It’s like giving it a little high five!

– To keep your logic board safe from ESD damage, make sure to place it on a soft, static-free surface while you work on it – your board will thank you!

– Let’s get started! Begin at the front left corner of the x-clamp and carefully insert a 1.5 mm flathead screwdriver between the heat sink’s peg and the x-clamp’s hook. Take your time and you’ll be a pro in no time!

– Now, let’s release the rear right hook of the x-clamp in the same way we did earlier.

– Now, let’s loosen the rear left hook of the x-clamp in the same way we did earlier. This will help you make progress with your repair.

– Time to get this repair started! Carefully lift the x-clamp off the back of the logic board.

– Now that you’ve tackled the tricky bits, it’s time to put everything back together—just retrace your steps in reverse. You’ve got this!

– If you ever feel like you need a hand, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair.

– Great job on getting through this guide!