Xbox Series X (2 TB Galaxy Black) Shell Replacement Guide: Step-by-Step DIY Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 31 Steps
Time to power down and unplug all those cables! You’re on the right track to a smooth repair. Let’s do this!
Ready to give your Xbox Series X (2TB Galaxy Black edition) a fresh new look? This guide will walk you through replacing that cracked or broken shell with ease! Before diving in, make sure to power down your console and unplug all those cables. And remember, a little electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety goes a long way when you’re getting your repair groove on!
Step 1
Alright, champ, before we get our hands dirty, give your device a complete power down and unplug all cables. We want to keep things safe and sound, right?
– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel back the sticker that’s keeping the first screw on the back panel a secret! It’s hiding out near the base, just waiting to be revealed.
Tools Used
Step 2
For a smoother peeling experience, warm up that pesky sticker using an iOpener or a good ol’ hair dryer.
Just peel the sticker back enough to uncover the hidden screw—no need to go overboard and take it all the way off.
While these stickers are technically tamper-evident, don’t sweat it—Microsoft can’t legally void your warranty as long as you keep everything intact. Enjoy the process!
– Grab yourself a trusty pair of blunt tweezers and gently lift that big ol’ sticker on the back panel. It’s hiding the second screw, and we need to set it free!
Tools Used
Step 3
As you dive into this repair adventure, keep a close eye on those screws! Make sure each one finds its way back home to prevent any mishaps with your console.
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and twist away those two 7.4 mm-long screws holding the back panel in place!
Step 6
– Grab the back panel at that little opening you just made and gently pull it up and away from the shell. You’ve got this—just unclip those long edges like a pro!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, give the edges of the back panel a little press to snap it back into place. Easy peasy!
Step 7
The back panel’s got a home! Slide it right into that gap at the top of the shell. You got this!
– Gently tilt the back panel upwards and give it a little tug away from the top edge of the shell to free it from the gap.
– Now, go ahead and remove the back panel completely.
Step 8
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and unscrew the trio of screws holding the fan to the center chassis:
– One 10.5 mm pancake screw
– Two 8.8 mm screws
Step 9
Always pull cables by their connectors, not the wires. We don’t want to break anything, right?
– Gently grab the edges of the fan cable connector with your fingers or some blunt tweezers, and give it a little tug to disconnect it from the center chassis.
– When putting it back together, make sure to tuck the fan cable under its tiny cable guide on the fan housing to keep it out of the way of the back panel. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 10
Step 12
Keep that locking tab open while you slide the base into place—it’s a bit of a team effort!
Once it’s locked in, the ‘Hello from Seattle’ line should be perfectly aligned with the sides of your device. Looking sharp!
– Hold onto the base and give it a gentle twist counterclockwise to set it free from the shell.
– Now, go ahead and lift that base right off.
– When you’re putting it back together, align the base tabs with their cozy little holes on the shell and twist clockwise until you hear that satisfying snap with the interior locking tab.
Step 13
– Grab your T8 Torx driver and let’s get to work! Carefully remove the two 8.8 mm screws that are keeping the optical drive’s vibration isolator snugly attached to the shell—there’s one at the bottom and one at the top. You’ve got this!
Step 14
The vibration isolator holds onto the sides of the optical drive using some squishy silicone pads. You might need to wiggle the isolator a bit to get it off the drive on each side.
– Gently lift the optical drive’s vibration isolator to set it free.
– When putting everything back together, make sure to press the vibration isolator down snugly around both edges of the optical drive, so it sits perfectly flush with the rest of the center chassis.
Step 15
Always give those cables a gentle tug at the connectors, not the wires! Keep it cool and kind, and they’ll thank you for it.
– Grab a pair of blunt tweezers and gently pinch the edges of the optical drive power connector, then give it a nice little pull to disconnect it from the optical drive.
– Now, use your fingers to lift and detach the data cable from the optical drive. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 16
If your drive isn’t sitting just right, it might throw a tantrum—meaning the top vibration isolator won’t fit snugly, and your disc reader could end up out of sync with the front of the console. Let’s make sure everything is aligned perfectly to avoid any drama!
– Grab hold of the top edge of the optical drive and give it a gentle tug to slide it right out of its cozy spot in the shell.
– When it’s time to put things back together, make sure to line up those pegs on the bottom of the optical drive with the guide holes waiting for them at the bottom of the shell.
Step 17
Handle those ribbon cables and their connectors with care—they’re as delicate as a butterfly! So, when you’re opening those locking tabs, do it gently, and when you’re pulling those cables, take it slow and steady.
– Grab your trusty spudger and with its flat end, give that metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable a little flip to open it up. Easy peasy!
– When you’re putting everything back together, just gently snap that metal locking tab back into place after you’ve slid the cable in. You’re doing great!
Tools Used
Step 18
Give that pull tab a gentle tug, but leave the cable alone. It’s not a tug-of-war; let’s keep everything safe and sound.
If your USB port cable is feeling a bit stuck to the metal chassis, don’t worry! Just grab an iOpener or a hairdryer to gently warm up that stubborn cable. Depending on which Xbox model you have, you might also want to slide an opening pick underneath the cable to help break that adhesive bond. You’re doing great!
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently tug on that black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 19
Gently tug on the pull tab only—no yanking the cable, please! It’s not a tug-of-war.
Make sure to press that metal tab before pulling the cable. Skipping this step might turn your repair into a rescue mission. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed end to give that metal tab on the side of the power button cable’s board connector a little nudge.
– Once you’ve got that tab pressed down, take a pair of tweezers and gently pull up on the pull tab to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis.
– When you’re putting everything back together, listen for a satisfying little ‘snap’ as the cable settles into place. It’s like a tiny high-five!
Step 20
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s get to work! Carefully unscrew those three 7.4 mm screws that are holding the center chassis assembly snugly in place. You’ve got this!
Step 21
Depending on your Xbox model, that sticky stuff might be hiding on the bottom of the cable. If it is, give that cable a little heat with a hairdryer or an iOpener. You got this!
– Carefully lift the USB port ribbon cable off the heatsink, taking your time to avoid any mishaps.
Tools Used
Step 22
The center chassis is snugly fitted to the shell with some handy guide pegs. To lift the chassis out, just give those pegs a little nudge to slide them out of their cozy slots.
– Grab hold of the center chassis and pull it towards the green fan grille at the top of the shell. You’ll feel the guide pegs release as you pull.
– Lift the center chassis assembly right out. It’s free!
– When you put it all back together, just make sure the ribbon cables don’t get pinched as you lower the center chassis into the shell. You got this!
Step 23
The power button cable is stuck to the shell with a bit of mild adhesive magic.
– Warm up the power button cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer. Let’s get that button feeling cozy!
Tools Used
Step 24
Be extra careful when lifting that cable where it connects to the board. Gently peel it up and slide an opening pick under the cable if you’re having trouble separating it from the adhesive. It’s like a little dance, just be smooth about it!
– Gently lift the power button cable with your fingers and detach it completely from the shell. You’ve got this!
– When putting everything back together, grab some thin double-sided adhesive to keep that cable in place. If there’s any sticky adhesive left over, feel free to reuse it! And if you’ve got a new cable, just check for any pre-installed adhesive and peel off those liners before you stick it down.
Step 25
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx screwdriver and give those four 5.5 mm screws holding the power button board in place a little spin. They’re ready to come out!
Step 26
– Alright, time to give that power button board the boot! Gently remove it, and you’ll be one step closer to fixing your device.
Step 27
The USB board cable is stuck to the shell with a bit of gentle adhesive magic.
– Grab an iOpener or a trusty hair dryer to warm up that USB board cable. A little heat goes a long way in making your repair journey smoother!
Tools Used
Step 28
Take it easy and be gentle when you’re lifting that cable off the board. If it’s being a bit stubborn, try to peel it slowly and slide an opening pick underneath to help separate the adhesive. You’ve got this!
– Give that USB board cable a gentle peel with your fingers and detach it completely from the shell. Think of it as freeing your phone’s inner workings!
– When you’re putting everything back together, grab some thin double-sided adhesive to keep that cable snug and secure. If there’s any adhesive still hanging around and it’s sticky, feel free to reuse it! And if you’re working with a brand new cable, just check if it has adhesive already on it and remove any protective liners before you get started.
Step 29
– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those two 8.9 mm-long screws holding the USB board enclosure in place:
– You’ll find one screw nestled inside the shell, just waiting for your attention.
– The other screw is hanging out on the bottom of the shell (where the base was), ready to be removed.
Step 30
– Gently use your fingers to slide the USB board enclosure out from under the metal clip that’s holding it snugly to the shell.
– Carefully remove the enclosure.
– Now, as you’re putting it all back together:
– Double-check that the Pair button is facing the right way and is securely seated in its slot.
– With a little finesse, slide the enclosure back into place until you hear it click under the metal clip.
Step 31
– Ready to put your device back together? Just follow these steps in reverse, and you’ll be golden!
– Things not going quite as smoothly as you’d hoped? No worries! Give some basic troubleshooting a shot, or feel free to reach out to our supportive Xbox Series X Answers community for some guidance.
– Change of plans? No problem! Just let us know you didn’t finish this guide.
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Success!
