Cisco 878 Integrated Services Router Teardown
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 11 Steps
Step 1
Only trained and qualified personnel should be handling this equipment! During this process, wear grounding wrist straps to keep ESD at bay. Avoid touching the backplane directly with your hand or any metal tools—you might get a shock! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
First things first, give that power switch a quick flick to standby and unplug the power supply cable. Next, it’s time to let those cables from the router’s back panel take a little vacation – disconnect them all!
– Grab your Phillips #1 screwdriver and spin out the two screws chilling on the back of the device.
Tools Used
Step 2
– 1. Gently nudge the top cover of the router away from you, just enough to get it moving.
– 2. Lift the top cover from the bottom, taking care not to rush it.
– 3. Carefully remove the top cover from the device, setting it aside safely.
– Place the router bottom on an antistatic mat to keep things safe and sound.
Step 3
– Grab your Phillips #1 screwdriver and take out the three screws from the front of your device.
Tools Used
Step 4
Handle those plates with care—no bending or twisting allowed!
– 1. Carefully lift the inner metal shield from the lower part of the router, like you’re unwrapping a surprise!
– 2. Take out the inner metal shield from the device (check out the anchors in the picture for guidance).
Step 5
– 1. Place your fingers on the levers on either side of the slot, and give them a gentle push to open it up.
– 2. Now, give that release lever a solid pull, and watch as the module pops right up.
– 3. Once it’s up, just lift the module out of the slot and you’re good to go!
Step 6
Careful now—just loosen and remove one silver screw; the other one is just holding the cooling plate in place. Keep it light and steady, and you’ll be good to go. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– 1. Grab your trusty Phillips #1 Screwdriver and unscrew that black screw. Nice and easy!
– 2. Now, take the Phillips #1 Screwdriver again and remove the silver screw just like you see in the picture. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 7
Watch out for that 4-pin connector highlighted in red—it’s a delicate little guy! Handle with care.
– Carefully lift the module upwards to disconnect the two connectors hiding beneath it.
Step 8
When you’re putting those screws back, go easy – the threads are made of plastic, so no need to crank them in like you’re tightening a bolt on a car! Just a light twist will do.
– Grab your trusty Phillips #1 Screwdriver and unscrew those two little screws that are holding the motherboard in place. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 9
– 1. Gently lift the board to unlock those plastic clips. A little wiggle and it should come free.
– 2. Carefully pull the board away from the back panel to release the metal shields around the connectors.
– 3. Now, take the board out of the case. You’re almost there!
Step 10
– Parts you’ll need for this adventure:
– Top cover – the outer shell that holds everything together.
– Inner metal shield cover – because sometimes, things need a little extra protection.
– Bottom part of the case with metal shielding – the foundation that keeps things safe and sound.
– Motherboard – the heart and soul of your device, make sure it’s handled with care.
– SHDSL Filter Module board – a small but important player in the game.
– StrataFlash Memory Module – your device’s memory, so don’t forget it!
– 1 black screw, 1 long silver screw (don’t worry, the long one is still on the SHDSL Filter Module board), 7 silver screws – because no good repair job is complete without screws.
Step 11
– Find the mini-PCI slot—this is where your WLAN card wants to live.
– Spot the DRAM socket, ready and waiting for extra RAM to boost your speed.
– Check out the slot for more StrataFlash Memory (there’s already a 4MB module hanging out here).
– Locate the twin connectors—these are for the SHDSL Filter Module board.