DIY Guide: Replace Google Pixel 9 Pro Fold Inner Screen

– Disconnect all cables from your phone and power it off entirely. You’ve got this!

– Alright you fixin’ fiend, let’s get this bad boy open! Grab some suction cup action at the bottom edge here, and give it a mighty pull. Once you got yourself a gap, slam in that opening pick and start prying that back cover off. You’re doin’ great, just a few more moves and you’ll have this device naked in all its glory. So keep hangin’ in there! If you’re feeling a little nervous, just remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair to chill with a pro, y’know what I mean?

– Let’s kick things off by carefully lifting the suction handle off the back cover. It’s like unwrapping a present—just be gentle!

– Now grab your trusty opening pick and slide it around the bottom left corner, then up the left edge of the back cover. This will help you break free the adhesive hiding in there. You’re doing great!

– Keep sliding that trusty pick down around the top left corner and glide it across the top edge of the back cover like you’re painting a masterpiece!

– Gently glide your pick down the right edge and around the bottom right corner to break free the rest of that sticky adhesive. You’re almost there!

– Gently lift the lower edge of the back cover and swing it over the top—we’re just giving it a little stretch!

– Now, give that back cover some support with your suction handle or a sturdy, clean item, but be kind to that cable and don’t strain it!

– Grab your trusty Torx Plus 3IP driver and let’s tackle that 3.0 mm-long screw holding the top bracket in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab those tweezers or just use your fingers to gently tug the top bracket upwards, freeing it from its snug little clip.

– Carefully take out the top bracket and set it aside.

– Gently slide your spudger under the edge of the back cover cable connector—nice and easy does it!

– Carefully lift and pop that back cover cable free. You’ve got this!

– Time to get that back cover off! Carefully lift it away from the frame and give it a little wiggle until it comes free. You got this!

– Grab your trusty Torx Plus 3IP driver and gently unscrew those two screws, each a delightful 3.0 mm long, keeping the base battery bracket snug in place. Let’s get that bracket off and make some magic happen!

– Grab your tweezers or use those nimble fingers of yours to gently tug the base battery bracket towards the bottom of the phone, setting it free from its clip.

– Now, go ahead and remove that base battery bracket—you’ve got this!

– Slide the tip of your trusty spudger under the bottom left corner of the base battery press connector, just beside that shiny gold marker.

– Gently pry it up and disconnect the base battery with care.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift to disconnect the USB-C port board cable press connector. Easy peasy! If you hit a snag, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your Torx Plus 3IP driver and unscrew the two 3.0 mm-long screws holding the vibrator bracket in place. Easy peasy!

– Grab your trusty tweezers or just your fingers, and gently lift that vibrator bracket off the frame like a pro. It’s time to set it free!

– Gently slide one arm of a pair of angled tweezers under the metal neck of the black antenna cable’s connector head on the USB‑C board.

– Carefully lift straight up to disconnect the cable.

– Grab your trusty Torx Plus 3IP driver and let’s get to work! Carefully unscrew those two 2.6 mm-long screws that are holding the inner front camera bracket in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab your tweezers or use those nimble fingers to gently lift the inner front camera bracket up and slide it toward the left edge of the phone to pop it free. Easy does it!

– Now, just remove the inner front camera bracket. You’re doing great!

– Alrighty! Time to go on a tiny treasure hunt and disconnect that inner front camera press connector! Use this spudger, your new best friend, to delicately pry it up and free it from its home. Going on an adventure always feels so exciting, right? If you need help, you can always schedule a repair. 😉

– Now, it’s time to gently nudge the inner front camera loose. Use the tip of your spudger to pry it up, freeing the adhesive holding it to the frame.

– Once you’ve gently nudged it free, you can remove the inner front camera.

– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the ultra wideband antenna to break free the adhesive foam that’s keeping it snug against the frame.

– With a little finesse, use tweezers or your fingers to lift the antenna off the frame, ensuring any leftover adhesive says goodbye.

– Get ready to unplug that ultra wideband bracket! Whoa, awe-yeah! You just need a Torx Plus 3IP driver. Trust us, it’s bigger than a breadbox. Now, it’s time to show off your driver skills and remove the two 3.0 mm-long screws. You’re on a roll! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– While keeping the ultra wideband antenna out of the way, gently tug the bracket down towards the bottom of the phone to pop those clips loose.

– Now, go ahead and take out the ultra wideband bracket.

– Grab your Torx Plus 3IP driver and unscrew that 3.0 mm gem holding the interconnect cable bracket. You got this!

– Grab your tweezers or use your fingers to gently tug the bracket towards the right edge of the phone—this’ll pop that clip right off!

– Now, go ahead and remove the bottom interconnect cable bracket. Easy peasy!

– Let’s get this party started! First things first, grab your trusty Torx Plus 3IP driver and give that 3.0 mm‑long screw holding down the inner display cable bracket a little nudge. It’s time for that cable to come on out!

– Let’s get this inner display cable bracket outta there! Use your trusty tweezers (or your fingers, if you’re feeling brave) to gently pull it towards the left edge of the phone. You’ll feel it pop loose from its little clip.

– Now that the bracket is free, carefully remove it. You’re doing great!

– Let’s get this inner display cable unplugged! Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the tip under the bottom left corner of the inner display press connector. You’ll see a gold marker on the logic board – that’s your target zone!

– Now, carefully pry up and disconnect the inner display cable. You’re doing great!

– Okay, now just repeat that last step to disconnect those interconnect cables at the top and bottom. You know the drill – just pry next to the gold markers. You’ve got this!

– Let’s peel that graphite sheet right off the bottom speaker like a sticker, so we can break it free from the sticky adhesive holding it in place. Yay for peeling!

– Keep peeling that graphite sheet away from the logic board to free up the last bits of adhesive. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty tweezers, or just use your fingers, to gently lift off that yellow tape from the side button cable ZIF connector. It’s like unwrapping a present!

– Once you’ve got that tape off, set it aside for now. You’ll want it later when you’re putting everything back together, so don’t lose it!

– Carefully slide the tip of a spudger or your trusty fingernail under the locking tab on the side button cable ZIF connector and give it a gentle lift.

– Time to give that side button cable a little nudge! Grab your angled tweezers and gently pull it straight out of its slot. Easy peasy, right?

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift the 5G mmWave antenna away from the frame, making sure to separate it from the thermal pad with care.

– Grab your trusty Torx Plus 3IP driver and let’s get those screws out! You’ll need to remove three little helpers that are keeping the logic board in place:

– One screw that’s 2.2 mm long, just waiting to be freed.

– Two screws that are a bit longer at 2.6 mm each, ready to join the party.

– Let’s gently lift that logic board! Slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the top left corner, right next to where the inner front camera hangs out.

– Now, give that logic board a little nudge to get it moving. You’ll want to pry it up just enough so you can grab hold of the top edge with your fingers. You got this!

– Gently lift the logic board out of its cozy frame and give it a little freedom by removing it.

– Now, flip the logic board over and let it rest comfortably on a clean surface.

– Yippee! Time for some fun thermal paste sleuthing! Use the flat side of your trusty spudger to gently brush away those big chunks of old paste from the frame.

– Next, sprinkle a few drops of our favorite cleaning pal, isopropyl alcohol, on any lingering thermal paste residue.

– Finally, give the frame a swab-down with a coffee filter or lint-free cloth to make sure it’s all sparkly clean!

– Give the underside of the logic board another round of that thermal paste cleanup.

– Grab your trusty tweezers or just your fingers, and gently peel back that section of conductive fabric connecting the loudspeaker to the frame. You’ve got this!

– Gently slide one arm of your trusty angled tweezers under the contact pad that’s cozying up to the loudspeaker.

– Carefully lift the contact pad to break free from the adhesive that’s keeping it snug against the frame.

– Let’s give that speaker some freedom! Use a Torx Plus 3IP driver to give those 2.6 mm‑long screws holding the loudspeaker a little nudge and send them packing.

– Gently slide the tip of your spudger under the left edge of the loudspeaker and lift it up to break free from the sticky adhesive holding it to the frame. Easy peasy!

– Gently use your fingers to lift the top edge of the loudspeaker and ease it out from its cozy little spot in the frame.

– Now, go ahead and remove the loudspeaker!

– Time to give that USB-C port cable a little wiggle room! Gently slide the tip of your opening pick under the cable to loosen the adhesive holding it to the frame.

– Grab your trusty Torx Plus 3IP driver and get ready to rock! It’s time to unscrew those three 2.6 mm screws holding the USB-C port board in place. You’ve got this!

– Gently wiggle a spudger into the top right corner of the USB-C port board and pop it up to release it from the frame. You’ve got this!

– Gently wiggle and lift the USB-C port board out of its cozy spot in the frame—easy does it! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the two edges of the pull tab at the base of the battery with your fingers. You’ve got this!

– Alright, let’s get this party started! Open up your phone and give that inner screen a little flip so we can get to work.

– Now, grab your trusty hair dryer (or heat gun if you’re feeling fancy) and give the section of the inner screen behind the battery a gentle warm-up. We’re talking barely too hot to touch – think warm hug, not fiery inferno.

– First, let’s give your phone a little fold and flip it over so the base battery is looking up at you. It’s like saying hi to the battery!

– Now, while you hold onto that right pull tab like a champ, gently slide the left pull tab towards the top edge of the battery. This will help you peel away the top section of adhesive without a hitch!

– Grab those plastic pull tabs like a pro! Use your fingers to hold on tight.

– Now, gently pull straight up with a steady hand. Take your time and let the adhesive do its thing until it finally gives way.

– Once that’s done, go ahead and lift out the base battery.

– Drop a few dabs of high-grade isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) right under the bottom edge of that base battery. Let’s keep things clean and smooth!

– Gently lift the bottom edge of your phone so that the isopropyl alcohol can sneak its way under the battery.

– Take a moment to chill and let the alcohol do its magic for about a minute to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Time to unleash that inner strength! Stick a suction cup right in the middle of the base battery.

– Hold onto your phone with one hand, and with the other, pull up on the suction cup like you’re trying to open a stubborn jar. It’s all about steady force, my friend.

– Pop that battery out! You’ve got this!

– Grab a hair dryer or a heat gun and give that vibrator a warm-up until it’s just shy of too hot to handle. You’ve got this!

– Grab one arm of those nifty angled tweezers and slide it into the little notch at the bottom left of the vibrator.

– Gently pry upward with the tweezers to break free the adhesive that’s holding it to the frame.

– Now, go ahead and lift out the vibrator!

– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner and up the right edge of the screen to break free the adhesive. Keep it smooth and steady!

– Gently glide the pick around the top right corner, but hit the brakes just before you reach the front camera. You got this!

– Gently pull the opening pick out, leaving just the tip nestled under the screen.

– Carefully slide that pick along the top edge of the screen until you’ve zipped past the front camera.

– Now, push your pick back to its original depth before you keep going.

– Glide the opening pick around the top left corner and pause about two-thirds down the left edge of the screen.

– Gently slide the opening pick in about 2 mm and give it a little twist around the bottom left corner to break free the last bits of adhesive. You’ve got this!

– Gently elevate the right side of your screen and swing it over to the left, much like you’re flipping through a book.

– Support the screen with your trusty suction handle or any clean, durable object handy.

– Grab your Torx Plus 3IP driver and tackle that 2.2 mm screw holding the display cable bracket in place!

– Gently pry up the display cable bracket with a spudger or your trusty fingers just enough to reveal the hidden press connector beneath. You’ve got this!

– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and disconnect the display cable press connector. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the screen away from the frame and take it off with care.

– Grab your trusty Torx Plus 3IP driver and unscrew that little 2.0 mm-long screw holding the battery bracket in place. You’ve got this!

– Aha! Let’sunjambunches! 🙌 Wiggle that pesky battery bracket with those trusty tweezers or jellybean-filled fingers 🍠 and scoot it outta the way of that little fella battery press connector. Piece ‘o cake! If you’re feeling all, ‘eeeps, what nows?’ don’t fret, you can always schedule a repair 😉

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge it under the battery press connector. Give it a little pry to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Grab some tweezers or use your fingers, and lift that little rubber block that’s hiding the screw on the top board.

– Grab your trusty Torx Plus 3IP driver and let’s get to work! Carefully unscrew those two 2.2 mm-long screws that are holding down the top interconnect cable bracket. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty tweezers or just use your fingers to gently lift off the top interconnect cable bracket. You’ve got this!

– Slide the tip of your trusty spudger right under the top right corner of that interconnect cable press connector, just beside the shiny golden marker. It’s like a little treasure hunt!

– Gently pry it up and give that top interconnect cable press connector a little disconnect. You’ve got this!

– Grab a trusty Torx Plus 3IP driver and remove the duo of 2.2 mm-long screws that are holding down that bottom interconnect cable bracket.

– Alrighty, tech-savvy friend! Now it’s time to grab those tweezers or fingers and gently remove the bottom interconnect cable bracket from the lower board. That’s right, you’ve got this! Once you’re done with this step, feel free to reach out to our amazing repair pros if you need a hand!

– Slide a spudger under the right edge of the bottom interconnect cable press connector with a gentle touch.

– Carefully pry it up and disconnect the bottom interconnect cable like a pro.

– Grab your trusty SIM eject tool, or if you’re feeling resourceful, a straightened paper clip will do just fine! Pop it into the SIM card tray hole and give it a firm press to release the tray.

– Now, gently pull out the SIM card tray like you’re unveiling a surprise!

– Time to give that battery cable the slip! Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to loosen its grip on the frame.

– Now, with a little help from your tweezers or fingers, lift the connector and give it a final farewell. It’s time for freedom!

– Now, get those fingers ready to peel back the flip battery pull tabs on either side of the battery. It’s like you’re giving the battery a little hug! But not too tight, we don’t want to crush it.

– First things first, open up your phone and give it a little flip so the inner screen is looking up at you!

– Now, grab a hair dryer or a heat gun and warm up that section of the inner screen right behind the flip battery (that’s the side with the SIM card cutout). You want it nice and cozy—just hot enough that it’s almost too hot to handle!

– Alright, let’s get this party started! Fold your phone up and flip it over so that the battery’s facing up, ready for some action.

– Now, gently tug on each side of the pull tab, alternating like you’re playing an epic game of tug-of-war. Slice through that sticky adhesive on the upper half of the battery until you reach the top edge. Easy peasy!

– Put a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) right under the bottom edge of the flip battery. You’re doing great!

– Let’s get those lifts in! Lift up the bottom edge of your phone so that the isopropyl alcohol flows under that pesky battery. Now, keep calm and wait just one minute – we need that alcohol to work its magic and soften that adhesive.

– Hey, you’re rocking this repair like a pro! Now, get ready to show off those handy-dandy skills. Pull that suction cup up with some serious force, and watch as that flip battery magically comes right off!

– Grab your Torx Plus 3IP driver and unscrew the 2.2 mm-long screw holding the top board in place. Easy peasy!

– Let’s start by sliding the flat end of a spudger under the bottom edge of that top board.

– Now, twist the spudger gently to lift the top board just enough to unclip it from the frame.

– Once it’s unclipped, you can remove the top board. Piece of cake!

– Alright, you rockstar! You’ve totally nailed the disassembly part! Now let’s bring this baby back together. The next few steps will show you exactly how to put your device back in tip-top shape.

– Give that top board a little love! Gently press the top edge against the frame, angling it downward to engage its metal spring.

– Now, smooth things out! Press the board flat against the frame, making sure the screw holes are perfectly aligned.

– Grab your trusty Torx Plus 3IP driver and gently secure the top board with a 2.2 mm-long screw. You’ve got this!

– Keep that lower board steady and slide the SIM card tray back in. You’ve got this!

– Pop that bottom interconnect cable back in place and give the connector a firm press. You’ve got this!

– Now, grab the bottom interconnect cable bracket and get it ready to hang out with the lower board. Line up the screw holes so they’re all cozy together. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty Torx Plus 3IP driver and get ready to work some magic! It’s time to secure that bottom interconnect cable bracket with two shiny 2.2 mm-long screws. Tighten them up and feel proud of that job well done!

– Reconnect the top interconnect cable by pressing the connector snugly back into place.

– Now, grab the top interconnect cable bracket and give it a little dance on the top board. Line up those screw holes for a perfect fit, and you’re ready to move on!

– Time to get those screws in! Use a Torx Plus 3IP driver to snuggle those two 2.2 mm‑long screws back into their cozy spots, securing the top interconnect cable bracket. You’ve got this!

– Pop that rubber block right into its cozy spot on the top board and give it a firm press to secure it in place.

– Let’s give this baby a jolt of life! It’s time to reconnect the flip battery press connector and make your device feel brand new again. Nothing to it, right? And if you need a little extra hand, you can always schedule a repair. One spark at a time!

– Position the flip battery bracket over the press connector and make sure the screw holes are lined up just right.

– Alright, time to tighten things up! Use your trusty Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to secure the battery bracket with that 2.0 mm‑long screw. You got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger or just your fingers and gently peel away that pesky old bottom left outer screen adhesive.

– Now, let’s tidy up! Use some isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher, please) along with a coffee filter or microfiber cloth to wipe away any stubborn adhesive residue.

– Before you dive into removing those liners, take a moment to ensure that the bottom left outer screen adhesive is in sync with the frame. It’s a small check that can make a big difference!

– Gently peel back that bottom left corner of the outer screen adhesive to reveal the sticky goodness underneath!

– Carefully place that adhesive right onto the frame, making sure it sticks like it means it!

– Grab that trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently press along the adhesive strip, making sure it sticks snugly to the frame. Easy peasy!

– Before you start peeling away those liners, take a moment to ensure that the outer screen adhesive around the perimeter is in sync with the frame. It’s a quick checksie that can save you some hassle later on!

– Gently peel back the top half of the new adhesive strip from its clear liner and keep it neatly folded for later use.

– Gently line up the adhesive’s top half with the frame, using those corners as your trusty guides.

– Now, just lay the adhesive down on the frame and you’re on your way!

– Now, grab that trusty flat end of your spudger (or your fingers if you’re feeling brave!) and give that adhesive a good press along the top edge. You want to make sure it’s snug and secure against the frame. You’ve got this!

– As you peel away the remaining clear liner, take your time to gently place the rest of the adhesive around the edges of the phone. You’ve got this!

– Grab that trusty spudger or just your fingers, and give a gentle press to the remaining adhesive to make it stick to the frame like it belongs there!

– Alright, let’s get this party started! Using the tip of your spudger, gently lift up the segmented tab on the bottom left corner of the big blue liner. It’s like giving that tab a little high five! You got this.

– Gently lift that tab and peel away the big blue liner to reveal the sneaky secondary liner waiting underneath.

– Give that screen some love! Support it with your hand or prop it up on something sturdy.

– Time to reconnect the outer screen cable connector. You got this!

– Get ready to show off those cable bracket clip skills! Reinsert that outer screen cable bracket clip under the frame by aligning the screw hole perfectly. Pretty cool, huh? If you get stuck, don’t worry – you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your Torx Plus 3IP driver and let’s get that 2.2 mm screw in place to secure the display cable bracket. You’ve got this!

– Peel away the blue liner from the bottom left of that outer screen adhesive strip like you’re unwrapping a present!

– While gently holding the screen above the frame, go ahead and pull one of the secondary liner’s tabs from the bottom left corner. You’ve got this!

– While keeping a firm grip on the screen, gently peel away the secondary liner to reveal the sticky goodness underneath.

– Carefully line up the outer screen with the frame and give it a gentle push to snap it into place!

– Press gently all around the outer screen to make sure it’s nice and snug in the frame.

– Let the phone chill for a few hours so the adhesive can get all set.

– Give your phone a quick flip to the other side.

– If your new inner screen assembly has adhesive already chilling over the vibrator cutout, peel off the liner. No adhesive? No problem—just grab some thin double-sided tape and stick it on.

– Line up the vibrator with its cutout on the frame and give it a gentle press to secure it in place. If you hit a snag, remember you can always schedule a repair for some expert help.

– Grab your tweezers or just use your fingers to peel off that old battery adhesive from the frame. Easy does it!

– Dab some isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) on a coffee filter or microfiber cloth and wipe away any sticky leftovers. Clean and simple!

– Before you start prying away any adhesive, make sure the battery shape and cutout match like puzzle pieces! If you need help, our team of nerds is here to guide you every step of the way. Just don’t forget to keep those cool, calm hands, okay?

– Carefully peel the adhesive strip away from its clear backing.

– Position the adhesive strip along the top edge of the battery recess and press it firmly onto the frame.

– Grab that handy spudger or just your trusty fingers, and give a gentle press on those five