How to Replace Google Pixel 8 Pro Logic Board: Step-by-Step Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 60 Steps
Hey there! Just a heads up, this guide was put together by our awesome team, and it’s not backed by any big names. For more details on our guides, check it out here.
If you happen to bend, crease, or otherwise mishandle that battery during removal, it’s time for a replacement!
This repair guide is brought to you by Salvation Repair. You’ll learn how to swap out that logic board in your Pixel 8 Pro. It’s a bit of a journey since you have to get the battery out first, and that’s a tricky dance. If you accidentally bend, crease, or damage the battery while removing it, you’ll need to replace it. Don’t worry, we’ve got your back. For this fix, you’ll need some fresh screen adhesive. Heads-up: This guide was made with the 5G mmWave antenna model of the Pixel 8 Pro. If your Pixel 8 Pro doesn’t have the mmWave antenna, no worries! Just skip the steps that mention it. Let’s get this done!
Step 1
Before diving into this repair adventure, let your Pixel’s battery dip below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can be a bit of a drama queen if it gets damaged, so let’s keep things safe and sound!
Tap that power and volume heaven button at the same time like it’s your laptop’s version of a happy dance to bring up the shutdown menu. Woohoo!
– Alright, let’s get this party started! Unplug all cables from your phone.
– Now, give your phone a little break and power it down completely.
Step 2
– Gently press your trusty SIM eject tool, a bit, or even a straightened paper clip into that little hole on the left edge of your phone. Keep going until the SIM tray pops out like magic!
– Now, go ahead and take out the SIM card tray.
Step 3
– Don’t break a sweat, just measure 3 mm from the tip and give your $ticky mởc€$schedule a repair 🙌
Alrighty, you’ll be using those handy-dandy opening picks to disconnect the display y puis de from the tech frame, no biggie! Be careful not to go too deep, you know, cause your device will get sad if you accidentally poke it a bit too much. So, let’s make sure we mark that pick and keep it chill with help from a coin and some adhesive – it’s like giving it a high five not to cause any damage!
Step 4
Watch out for those pesky glass shards—they can make disassembly tricky and might even cause a little ouch! If your phone’s sporting a cracked screen, just follow these steps:
Remember, keep the tape strictly on the glass—no sticky situations with the frame!
– Stick some overlapping strips of packing tape over that cracked glass until the entire screen is all wrapped up and ready to go!
– Don those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe from any pesky glass shards that might escape during the repair process.
Step 5
The screen is glued to the frame, and clips hold it in place. Use a bit of heat to soften the adhesive, and the screen will be easier to pop off.
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or a hot plate to warm up the screen—just be gentle! If you get too hot, you might end up with a crispy screen or fried battery.
– Let’s warm things up! Heat an iOpener and place it on the bottom edge of the screen for a couple of minutes. This will soften the adhesive and make things easier to separate.
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Step 6
The next three steps show you how to use our special Anti-Clamp tool – it’s like a magic wand for making things easier! If you’re not using the Anti-Clamp, just skip ahead three steps for a different way to do it.
For more info on using the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
– Give that blue handle a little tug backward to release the Anti-Clamp’s arms.
– Gently lay your phone screen-side up on a flat surface so it sits nicely between the Anti-Clamp’s arms, letting the bottom edge dangle off a bit.
– Slide the arms over to the left edge of your phone, making sure you can easily reach the bottom edge.
– Aim those suction cups as close to the center of the bottom edge as you can get them.
– Now, squeeze those cups together to create a solid suction grip.
Step 7
– Give that handle a good pull forward to lock those arms in place!
– Spin the handle clockwise for a full 360-degree turn or until those suction cups start to stretch out.
– As the cups stretch, keep an eye on their alignment. If they start slipping, just pop off the Anti-Clamp and use some tape to help them stick. You’ve got this!
Step 8
Don’t go crazy with that opening pick! Keep it under 3mm to make sure those springy contacts stay happy.
– Take a moment and let a little gap form between the screen and the frame—about a minute should do the trick!
– Slide an opening pick into that gap you just created.
– Gently pull the blue handle back to unlock the arms and easily remove the Anti-Clamp using the pull tabs on the suction cups.
– Feel free to skip the next two steps; you’ve got this!
Step 9
– Grab a suction handle and stick it right in the center of the bottom edge of your screen. Let’s get this party started!
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Step 10
Sometimes those pesky parts don’t wanna budge, right? If you’re having a hard time creating a gap, don’t worry! Just give it a little more heat and try again. You got this!
– Give that suction handle a solid pull to create a little gap between the screen and the frame. You’ve got this!
– Slide an opening pick into that gap you’ve just made. Easy peasy!
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Step 11
Hey there, careful! Don’t push your pick more than 3mm deep when you’re peeling back that screen glue. Keep an eye on these spots, just to be extra safe!
– The screen cable hangs out a little less than halfway up the left edge of your phone, so tread lightly, my friend! We don’t want any tearing here.
– You’ll spot some cheeky spring contacts all around the phone’s edge. Be gentle around those areas to keep them in shape and avoid bending.
Step 12
– Gently glide the opening pick along the bottom edge to break free the adhesive holding it in place.
– Keep that pick snugly in the bottom right corner to stop the adhesive from making a comeback.
Step 13
Alternatively, feel free to use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to give your device a warm hug—but tread carefully! Too much heat can be a screen and battery’s worst nightmare.
– Heat things up a bit! Grab your trusty iOpener and give the right edge of the screen a cozy two-minute warm-up session. It’ll help loosen things up nicely!
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Step 14
– Let’s start by sliding a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.
– Now, gently glide the pick to the top right corner to loosen the adhesive holding the screen in place.
– Keep that pick at the top right corner to make sure the adhesive doesn’t re-stick.
Step 15
– Slide a third opening pick right under the bottom edge of your screen, like a pro!
– Gently glide that new pick over to the bottom left corner.
– Keep the pick snugly in the bottom left corner to stop the adhesive from making a comeback.
Step 16
Hey there! If you’re in a pinch, a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can work wonders for your repair. Just remember to keep it cool—too much heat can put your screen and battery at risk. Stay safe and keep it chill!
– Warm up your trusty iOpener and gently place it on the left edge of the screen for a cozy two minutes.
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Step 17
– Slide a fourth opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide that new pick up to the top left corner to break free the adhesive holding the screen’s left edge. Easy peasy!
– Keep the pick in the top left corner to stop that adhesive from getting cozy again. You’re doing great!
Step 18
If you’re feeling adventurous, a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can come in handy! Just remember to keep an eye on things—too much heat might give your screen or battery a bit of a meltdown. Stay cool while you heat things up!
– Warm up that trusty iOpener and give the top edge of the screen some love for a full two minutes!
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Step 19
– Hey there, tech hero! Toss an opening pick under the top left corner of your screen and slide it over to the right, up top. This’ll help those sticky screen boundaries say their farewells!
Step 20
If the screen is feeling a bit stubborn, take a moment to glide around the edges with an opening pick to gently break free any leftover adhesive.
– Grab a small box or stack of books and set it to the left of your phone. This will help you hold up the screen while you work on disconnecting its cable.
– Now, gently lift the right edge of the screen like you’re opening a book. Easy peasy!
– Keep that screen propped up so you can easily reach the screen cable without putting any unnecessary strain on it.
Step 21
– Grab an opening tool and gently pop up the top edge of the screen cable cover.
– Lift and remove the cover.
Step 22
– Let’s loosen up that screen! Take your spudger and slip it under the top right corner of the screen’s press connector.
– Time to give that cable a little nudge! Gently pry it up and disconnect it.
– Ok, screen time is over! Carefully remove the screen.
– Now, let’s reconnect that press connector with some love! Line it up over its socket and gently press down on one side until you hear a satisfying click. Then, repeat on the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle. If the connector is out of whack, those pins might get bent and cause a major headache. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
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Step 23
If you’re putting in a new screen with sticky stuff already on it, follow this step when you put it all back together. Otherwise, follow the steps here to get your screen all nice and sticky!
You can make your sticky stuff even stronger by gently pressing all over your phone. It’s like giving your screen a big hug!
– Give that screen a once-over, making sure to peel off any plastic liners or tape using the pull tabs. Pay special attention to the front camera cutout, back of the screen, and along the edges.
– Hook up the screen cable again and put its cover back on.
– Now’s a good time to test your phone before sealing it up. Temporarily power it on and check if it works as expected. Remember to power it down before moving on.
– Press the screen firmly into place on the frame—you should feel those clips ‘snap’ into place.
– Secure the screen by pressing firmly around the edges to make sure the new adhesive holds.
– Follow this guide to calibrate the fingerprint sensor.
Step 24
Hey, be super careful not to scratch or bump those tiny parts on the board. We don’t want any accidental damage! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair.
Alright, listen up! The next few steps will guide you on whisking away that 5G mmWave antenna cable. No 5G mmWave antenna on your phone? No worries, just breeze through the next four steps.
– Slide the spudger’s tip under the top edge of that 5G mmWave antenna’s press connector like a pro.
– Carefully lift and disconnect the cable with a gentle touch.
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Step 25
Hey, we’re gonna keep that 5G mmWave antenna cable nice and secure with some strong adhesive! It’s like a mini-hug for your phone.
Or, you can grab a hair dryer, a heat gun, or even a hot plate if you’re feeling fancy. Just be careful, though. We don’t want any meltdowns! You know, literally. We’re talking about your phone, not you! 😉 If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Warm up an iOpener and place it on the 5G mmWave antenna cable for a cozy two minutes to loosen that adhesive up.
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Step 27
– Grab the bottom of that 5G mmWave antenna cable and gently peel it away from the midframe like you’re unwrapping a present. Easy does it!
– When you’re putting everything back together, just press the cable back onto the midframe to stick it down with the old adhesive. If it’s feeling a bit stubborn and doesn’t want to stick, a little thin, double-sided tape will do the trick to keep it secure.
Step 28
For this repair, you’ll need to remove and replace a large graphite sheet. This connects the top of the battery, midframe, and rear cameras.
Be aware that the sections of graphite sheet between the rear cameras and the battery might tear. If they do, just grip the broken piece and remove that section.
– Grab your spudger tool and gently slide it underneath the graphite sheet, like you’re giving it a little nudge.
– Now, carefully peel up that sheet, like you’re unrolling a tiny, techy map.
– Don’t worry about reusing the old sheet – it’s time for a fresh start! You can always follow this guide to replace it, or if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 29
– Grab your trusty spudger and use its tip to gently nudge the plastic shim that’s chilling along the top of the USB-C port cover. Easy peasy!
– Once the shim is lifted, set it aside or move it out of your way, making way for those pesky USB-C port cover screws. Let’s get to it!
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Step 30
– Alright, it’s time to put things back together! Start by swapping out that plastic shim that sits snugly across the bottom of the midframe and loudspeaker. No replacement? No problem! Just give the old one a little push back into position.
– Next up, peel off the bigger rectangular liner from the shim.
– Now, align the shim so the smaller piece of foam lines up perfectly with the bottom of the USB-C port cover.
– Grab your trusty spudger and use the flat end to press down firmly along the entire shim, making sure it’s nice and secure.
– Finally, remove the last liner and you’re all set!
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Step 31
As you dive into this repair, make sure to keep an eye on every little screw and remember where they belong. Trust us, they have a knack for disappearing otherwise!
The Pixel 8 Pro is rocking some Torx Plus screws, but don’t worry if you only have standard Torx bits—they’ll do the trick! Just remember to apply steady, downward pressure to keep everything safe and sound, avoiding any stripping mishaps.
– Let’s give those USB-C port cover screws the boot! Grab your trusty T3 Torx screwdriver and give those two 5 mm long 3IP Torx Plus screws a good twist. They’re holding the cover on tight, so don’t be afraid to give them a little muscle.
– Now that those screws are out, pop that cover right off! You’re doing great!
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Step 32
– Grab your T3 Torx screwdriver and unscrew the seven 5 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screws holding down the midframe.
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Step 33
– Let’s start by gently taking out the midframe. You’ve got this!
– As you put everything back together, take a moment to check on that thermal pad. If it looks like it’s seen better days, carefully remove it, give the area a good clean with some high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber or lint-free cloth, and then rock on with a fresh thermal pad!
Step 35
– Now, gently lift up the front camera connector using the pointy end of your spudger. It’s like giving the camera a little high-five!
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Step 36
– Time to take out that front camera! It’s like saying goodbye to a friend, but don’t worry, we’ll be reunited later.
Step 37
– Gently use the tip of a spudger to lift and disconnect all three rear camera press connectors from the top edge of the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 38
Heads up! You might need to gently nudge that 5G mmWave antenna cable out of the way while you’re unscrewing the rear camera assembly. No worries, just be careful, okay?
– Grab your trusty T3 Torx screwdriver and let’s get those screws out of the rear camera assembly:
– First up, there’s a 3.5 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screw hanging out in the top left corner, waiting for you.
– And don’t forget the 5 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screw in the top right corner—it’s just as eager to be removed!
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Step 39
– Slide a spudger into the gap between the right side of the rear camera assembly and the frame. Let’s get in there!
– Gently lift the rear camera assembly up and take it out like a pro.
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Step 40
– Grab your T3 Torx screwdriver and get ready to unscrew those two 5 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screws that are holding that 5G mmWave antenna bracket in place. You’ve got this!
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Step 41
– Slide the tip of your trusty spudger into one of the screw holes on the 5G mmWave antenna bracket. You’ve got this!
– Gently pry up with the spudger to pop that bracket loose. A little nudge goes a long way!
– Time to say goodbye to the bracket—remove it with care.
– When you’re putting things back together, angle the bracket downwards so those spring contacts and foam pads can snugly press against the 5G mmWave antenna. Give it a little press down to lock it in place!
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Step 42
If the antenna cable happens to come loose, no need to panic! Gently detach the antenna with your fingers. Just remember to plug that antenna cable back in when you’re putting everything back together.
– Time to unleash that 5G power! Grab the 5G mmWave antenna cable and gently lift the antenna out of its recess. You’re doing great!
Step 43
– Slide one arm of your trusty angled tweezers under the metal neck of the black antenna cable coaxial connector, which is hanging out in the top left corner of the logic board.
– Gently lift straight up to disconnect the cable—easy peasy!
– When it’s time to reconnect, just hold the connector over its socket and give it a gentle press down with the flat end of a spudger. It should snap right back into place! If it’s being a bit stubborn, don’t force it—just reposition and give it another go.
Step 44
– Slide one arm of your trusty angled tweezers beneath the shiny neck of the white antenna cable coaxial connector. It’s hanging out in the top left corner of your phone, just waiting for a little love.
– Now, with a gentle touch, lift straight up to lovingly disconnect the cable. You’ve got this!
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Step 45
– Now, let’s give that white antenna cable a gentle tug to free it from its little clip on the left side of your phone. Easy peasy, right?
Step 46
– Using the pointy end of your trusty spudger, gently pry up and disconnect the interconnect and ultra-wideband press connectors from the top left corner of the logic board. It’s like giving those connectors a little high-five, but with a tool instead of your hand!
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Step 47
– Grab your T3 Torx screwdriver and get ready for some fun! Carefully unscrew the 5 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screw that’s holding the loudspeaker in place. You’ve got this!
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Step 48
– Slide the spudger’s tip between the bottom right corner of the loudspeaker and the frame. You’ve got this!
– Gently pry the loudspeaker up with the spudger to free it from its snug little home.
– Carefully lift out the loudspeaker. Nice job!
– When putting it back together, angle the edge of the loudspeaker with the orange gasket downwards as you slide it into its spot. Then, give it a good press to secure it in place.
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Step 49
Take care not to crank up the heat too high on your phone—its battery doesn’t handle the heat like a champ!
The battery is held in place by some sticky adhesive. A little warmth on the back cover will soften that adhesive up, making it much more convenient to pop things apart!
– Gently flip your phone over and place it on your workspace like it’s taking a little nap.
– Grab a hairdryer or heat gun and warm up the left side of the back cover, where the battery hangs out. It should feel just a tad too hot to touch—like a cozy summer day!
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Step 50
– Alright, flip your phone back over and set it down on your workspace like it’s taking a little break.
– Now, drizzle some concentrated isopropyl alcohol along the battery’s right edge—just a few drops will do the trick!
– Give your phone a gentle tilt to help the alcohol slide on over to the adhesive securing the battery at the top and bottom edges.
– Hang tight for a minute and let that alcohol work its magic on the adhesive—patience is key!
Step 51
– Gently slide the flat side of your trusty opening pick right between the battery’s edge and the frame. You’ve got this!
Step 52
Be careful not to crinkle or twist the battery—doing so could lead to some seriously unwanted chemical spills and maybe even a fiery surprise!
Alright, that battery is stuck in there good! We’re gonna use some heat and a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to get it loose. You’ll need to apply steady pressure, and it might take a few tries. No worries, we’re in this together.
If after two minutes of steady pressure that battery still isn’t budging, just repeat the process, a little more heat, a little more alcohol, and we’ll get it free. Don’t worry, we’re here to help every step of the way.
Step 53
– Use the opening pick to help the battery loosen up from its sticky friend, the adhesive.
– Once the battery is feeling a little less attached, go ahead and remove it.
– During reassembly:
– Follow the steps in reverse to give your battery a fresh start with some new adhesive. If you’re feeling a little overwhelmed, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 54
– Grab your trusty T3 Torx screwdriver and get ready to tackle that 2.5 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screw that’s holding the grounding bracket snugly in place at the bottom right corner of your phone. Let’s get that screw out!
– Now, gently lift off the grounding bracket and set it aside. You’re doing great!
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Step 55
– Grab your trusty T3 Torx screwdriver and get ready to tackle that 3.5 mm-long 3IP Torx Plus screw holding the logic board in place. You’ve got this!
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Step 56
Before you dive into removing the logic board, don’t forget to pop out that SIM card tray first! Trust me, it makes things a whole lot easier.
– Carefully lift the top edge of the logic board and slide it out, being sure no cables get caught on it.
– When putting it back together:
– Ensure the interconnect, ultra-wideband, and black antenna cables are out of the way before you place the board in position.
– Insert the board at a downward angle so the USB-C port slides into its slot at the bottom of the frame.
– Lay the top of the board down and push it into its spot.
Step 57
– Gently flip the logic board over and place it on a soft, clean surface like a towel to keep it safe and sound. We want to avoid any mishaps while you work your magic!
Step 58
– Using a pair of angled tweezers, slide one arm under the metal neck of the white antenna cable coaxial connector at the bottom of the logic board.
– Gently lift the connector straight up to unplug the cable.
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Step 59
– Carefully wiggle the white antenna cable free from its cozy clips at the bottom of the logic board.
– Say goodbye to the antenna cable as you remove it.
– When putting everything back together, use the tip of a spudger to gently tuck the cable back into its clips.
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Step 60
– Ready to put your device back together? Just follow these steps in reverse, and you’ll be all set!
– Want to check if everything’s working smoothly? Give the built-in diagnostic tool a whirl by clicking here.
– Got some old tech lying around? Make sure to drop it off at an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler. It’s good for the planet!
– Things not going as planned? No worries! Try some basic troubleshooting, or if you need a hand, our Answers community is here for you.
– If you need to bail on this guide, just hit cancel—it’s all good.
– You’ve got this!
Success!
