Step-by-Step Guide: DIY Google Pixel 8 Pro Battery Replacement
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 38 Steps
This guide is crafted with care by the team at Salvation Repair. While it’s not officially blessed by any major tech giants, we believe in the power of DIY! For more handy repair tips, check us out! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Ladies and gents, it’s time to give your Google Pixel 8 Pro a battery boost! This guide is all about swapping out that sleepy old battery for a shiny new one. If your battery’s feeling a bit poofy, be sure to handle with care. Got a Pixel 8 Pro that’s powering down on the power? Yep, time for a battery kiss goodbye and hello to the new. Make sure you’ve got some fancy new screen adhesive on hand, ’cause we’re going to give your phone some serious love. This guide’s all about the 5G mmWave antenna folks, but if you’re rockin’ the non-mmWave version, stick with us and skip when needed. When you’ve got a phone as cool as yours, it just deserves the best, right?
Step 1
Let your Pixel’s battery power down to below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium-ion battery might get a little hot if it gets damaged. Just a heads up! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Simultaneously press the power button and the volume up button to pop up the shutdown menu.
– First things first, let’s give your phone a break from all those wires. Unplug everything!
– Alright, time to give your phone a proper power nap. Switch it off completely.
Step 2
You’re about to use opening picks to separate the screen from the frame. Think of it like gently persuading them to part ways. If you get a little too enthusiastic, a pick can get carried away and cause some trouble. Just mark your pick to make sure it doesn’t go too far, and everything will be just fine.
Or, for a little extra grip, you could tape a coin to a pick about 3 mm from the tip. Now that’s what we call a teamwork effort.
– Measure 3 mm from the tip of your opening pick and make a mark with a permanent marker. You got this!
Step 3
Dealing with glass shards? Yeah, that can make things a little tricky—and even pose a safety risk. If your phone’s screen is cracked, don’t worry! Just follow these easy-breezy steps:
When you’re taping things down, remember to stick to the glass only—let the frame be free! No tape stuck to the edges, please.
– Stick on some packing tape, overlapping those strips like a pro, until the entire cracked screen is wrapped up safely.
– Don those safety glasses to keep your eyes safe from any sneaky glass bits that might jump out during the repair fun.
Step 4
The screen is held tight against the frame by adhesive and clips. By warming it up, you can make that sticky stuff a lot easier to work with!
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or even a hot plate—but let’s keep the heat in check, too much can be a real screen or battery bummer!
Step 5
The next three steps will show you how to use the Anti-Clamp. It’s a super helpful tool that makes things a lot easier! If you aren’t using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps and check out the alternate method.
Want a little more help with the Anti-Clamp? Check out this guide for full instructions.
– Give that blue handle a gentle tug backward to free the Anti-Clamp’s arms.
– Set your phone screen-side up on a flat surface, making sure it sits nice and level between the Anti-Clamp’s arms—the bottom edge should be hanging off just a bit.
– Slide the arms over the left edge of your phone to get a good grip on the bottom edge.
– Place the suction cups as close to the center of the bottom edge as you can manage.
– Squeeze those cups together to create a solid suction. You’ve got this!
Step 6
– Pull the handle forward to lock the arms. That’s it! You got this!
– Now, give that handle a spin! Turn it clockwise one full turn (360 degrees), or until the suction cups start to stretch. You’re almost there!
– As the cups stretch, make sure they stay aligned. They like to play tag, so if they keep slipping, just remove the Anti-Clamp and give them some tape to stick to. You got this!
Step 7
Don’t go too deep with your opening pick! Keep it under 3 mm to avoid messing up the spring contacts.
– Hang tight for a minute while a little gap forms between the screen and the frame.
– Slide an opening pick into that gap you’ve created.
– Give the blue handle a gentle pull back to unlock the arms and easily remove the Anti-Clamp using the pull tabs on the suction cups.
– Feel free to skip the next two steps.
Step 8
– Grab your suction handle and stick it right in the center of the screen’s bottom edge. You got this!
Tools Used
Step 9
If you’re having a tough time making a gap, just warm things up a bit more and give it another go!
– Give that suction handle a good pull – steady and strong – until you see a little gap open up between the screen and the frame. You’re doing great!
– Now, slide an opening pick right into that gap you’ve created. Nice work!
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Step 10
– The screen cable hangs out just shy of halfway up the left edge of your phone. Tread lightly here to keep that cable intact!
– You’ll find numerous spring contacts sprinkled around the edge of the phone. Handle with care in these spots to avoid bending those little guys.
Step 11
– Gently glide that trusty opening pick along the bottom edge to break free the adhesive holding things together.
– Keep that pick snug in the bottom right corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 12
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but don’t forget, too much heat can be a beast and might hurt your screen or battery. Stay cool, and remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Warm up that trusty iOpener and let it dance on the right edge of the screen for a cozy two minutes.
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Step 13
– Aww yeah, it’s time for some serious separation over here in the bottom right corner of your screen with a second opening pick, just cuttin’ through that sticky glue situation.
– Now watch how it’s done: slide y’all’s new pick all the way up to the very top right corner, like a peeling banana. Or maybe not, but you get the gist, right?
– Okay, that’s enough for now. Leave the pick planted in that top right corner to make sure no sneaky adhesive slaps itself back together on you down the line. Whoopsie!
Step 14
– Slide a third opening pick under the bottom edge of the screen like a pro!
– Gently glide the new pick down to the bottom left corner.
– Keep that pick snug in the bottom left corner to stop the adhesive from getting cozy again.
Step 15
Alternatively, you can grab a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but tread lightly! Too much heat can be a screen and battery’s worst nightmare.
– Give a warm hug to your device by applying a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for a cozy two minutes.
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Step 16
– Let’s loosen things up a bit! Insert a fourth opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen.
– Slide the new pick to the top left corner, like you’re a champion ice skater gliding across the screen to separate the adhesive.
– Keep that pick in the top left corner so the adhesive doesn’t get sneaky and seal itself back up.
Step 17
If you’re feeling extra crafty, you can make your own heated friend like a hair dryer, heat gun, or even a hot plate. Just be careful not to accidentally turn your device into a rolling dice! 🔥🎲
Step 18
– Gently slide a fifth opening pick under the top edge of the screen, close to the left corner.
– Now, glide that opening pick over to the top right corner to break the adhesive holding the screen’s top edge in place.
Step 19
If you feel the screen is getting stuck, just go back around the edges and use your opening pick to gently separate any remaining sticky bits. It’s like a little dance between you and the screen.
– Grab a small box or a stack of books and place them to the left of your phone. This will help hold up the screen while you disconnect its cable without a hassle!
– Now, gently lift the right edge of the screen as if you’re flipping open a book. Easy does it!
– Support the screen so you can reach the screen cable comfortably—no need to strain yourself here!
Step 20
– Grab your trusty opening tool and gently lift the top edge of that screen cable cover. You’ve got this!
– Now, go ahead and take off the cover. Easy peasy!
Step 21
– Wedge a spudger under the top right corner of the screen’s press connector.
– Gently lift and detach the cable.
– Remove the screen.
– To reconnect the press connector, align it with its socket, gently press down one side until it clicks, then press down the other side. Avoid pressing in the middle. Misalignment can bend the pins and cause permanent damage.
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Step 22
Got a new screen with adhesive all set? Great! Just remember to follow this step during reassembly. If you’re working with your old screen, no worries—check out this guide to get that adhesive in place.
Want to make that adhesive stick like glue? A little even pressure across the phone can help solidify that bond!
– Give the screen a thorough once-over and check for any sneaky plastic liners or tape. Don’t forget to use those handy pull tabs to peel them off. Keep an eye out around the front camera cutout, the back of the screen, and the edges!
– Time to reconnect that screen cable and pop the cover back on. Let’s get that connection right!
– Here’s a bright idea! Before you seal everything up, why not do a little test run? Power your phone back on for a moment to make sure everything’s working as it should. Don’t forget to power it down again before moving on!
– Press the screen firmly into the frame—it should click into place with a satisfying pop. Trust us, you’ll feel it!
– Give the perimeter of the screen a good, firm press to secure it with the new adhesive. A little love goes a long way!
– Now, let’s make sure your fingerprint sensor is on point! Follow this guide to calibrate it perfectly.
Step 23
Be super careful not to scratch or damage any of the little parts on the surface during this step. It’s like a delicate dance with your tech!
Next up, we’re diving into how to gracefully disconnect and detach that 5G mmWave antenna cable! If your phone is more of a retro model without a 5G mmWave antenna, feel free to skip the next four steps and keep cruising on your repair journey!
Step 24
– Give that iOpener a nice warm-up by heating it up, then place it gently on the 5G mmWave antenna cable for about two minutes. This will help soften up the adhesive like butter on toast!
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Step 26
– Take hold of the bottom of that 5G mmWave antenna cable and carefully peel it away from the midframe like you’re unwrapping a present!
– When you’re putting everything back together, just press that cable back onto the midframe to hitch a ride with the old adhesive. If it doesn’t feel like sticking around, a little thin, double-sided tape should do the trick! Keep it secure, and you’re golden.
Step 27
To get this repair done, you’ll need to remove and replace the big ol’ graphite sheet. It’s the superstar that connects the upper part of the battery, the midframe, and those rear cameras!
Watch out! The bits of graphite sheet hanging between the rear cameras and the battery might get a little torn. If that happens, just grab the damaged piece and give it the ol’ heave-ho!
– Gently slide the tip of your spudger under various sections of the graphite sheet and lift it until you can snag it with your fingers.
– Carefully peel away and fully detach the graphite sheet.
– When putting everything back together, remember: don’t reuse that old graphite sheet! Check out this guide to swap in a fresh one.
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Step 28
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the plastic shim that’s hanging out at the top of the USB-C port cover. It’s just waiting for a little lift!
– Once you’ve coaxed that shim out of its spot, set it aside or move it out of the way. Now you’re all set to tackle those USB-C port cover screws!
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Step 29
– Alright, let’s get that shim back in place! It’s like giving your device a little hug. It keeps everything snug.
– First, pop off that big liner protecting the shim.
– Now, line up the smaller foam piece of the shim with the bottom of the USB-C port cover. It’s like a puzzle but easier.
– Press the shim down along the whole length using the flat end of a spudger. You got this!
– Time to remove the rest of that liner. You’re doing awesome!
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Step 30
As you dive into this repair, make sure to keep an eye on those screws and remember where each one belongs! They have a knack for getting lost if you’re not careful.
The Pixel 8 Pro has its own flair with Torx Plus screws, but good news—regular Torx bits will work just fine! Just remember to keep a steady downward pressure to avoid any mishaps with stripping.
– Alright, let’s get this USB-C port cover off! Grab your trusty T3 Torx screwdriver and give those two 5 mm long 3IP Torx Plus screws a good twist. They’re holding that cover in place, so once they’re out, you can gently remove the cover.
– And there you have it! The cover’s off. Nice work!
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Step 31
– Alright, grab your trusty T3 Torx screwdriver – it’s time to get those screws out! There are seven of them, each 5mm long, and they’re holding the midframe in place. These are 3IP Torx Plus screws, so make sure you’re using the right tool.
Tools Used
Step 32
– First up, let’s get that midframe off! It’s time to make some space.
– As you put everything back together, take a good look at the thermal pad. If it seems a bit worse for wear, don’t sweat it! Just peel it off, grab some high-concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol and a clean microfiber or lint-free cloth, and give the area a nice clean. Finally, pop on a fresh thermal pad and you’re good to go!
