Google Pixel 4 Charging Assembly Replacement Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 34 Steps
This guide has been crafted by the expert team at Salvation Repair, and while we think it’s pretty awesome, it hasn’t received the official thumbs-up from Google.
Heads up:
Uh oh, here’s a word of caution:
Hey there, tech-savvy friend! Get ready to give your Google Pixel 4 a fresh start by swapping out that charging assembly! This clear, concise, and easy-to-read guide will walk you through the process, so don’t sweat it. We’ll be removing the USB-C port, antenna connectors, and a few other bits and bobs under the loudspeaker and battery. Don’t worry, we’ll take care of the loudspeaker, but remember, we’ll need to replace the ingress gasket after we’re done. Heads up! Google warns that messing with the front laser assembly could result in some serious laser eye action, so be extra careful. Read more about it here. One last thing, don’t try to reuse that battery if it’s been banged up or bent out of shape. It’s not safe, so grab a new one. If you need any help, you can always schedule a repair!
Step 1
– Grab your trusty SIM eject tool, a bit, or even a straightened paper clip, and gently slide it into the tiny hole on the SIM card tray located on the left edge of your phone.
– Give it a firm press to pop that tray out like a champ.
– Now, go ahead and pull out the SIM card tray with ease.
Step 2
When using heat to loosen the adhesive, be careful not to get too aggressive – your phone’s display and battery aren’t fans of extreme temperatures. A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can be used, but keep it gentle to avoid any damage. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Let’s warm things up! Grab your trusty iOpener and stick it to the bottom edge of the back panel for a full minute. This will help loosen things up and make the next steps a breeze!
Tools Used
Step 3
Hey, if your back glass is all cracked up, try covering it with some clear packing tape. That might help the suction cup stick. Or, you can use some extra-strong tape instead of the suction cup altogether! If you’re still having trouble, you can even use some superglue to stick the suction cup to the broken panel. But, hey, if you’re feeling overwhelmed, you can always schedule a repair with us. We’re here to help!
– Alright, let’s get this party started! Stick your suction cup onto that warmed-up back panel edge. Press down firmly to get a good grip, and try to get it as close to the edge as possible. You got this!
Step 4
Depending on how old your phone is, this might be a little tricky. Don’t worry, just add a bit more heat to the edge and give it another go. And remember, if you need a helping hand, you can always schedule a repair.
– Gently tug on that suction cup like it’s your best friend and create a nice little gap between the back panel and the frame.
– Slide the tip of your opening pick into that gap and let’s keep this party going!
Step 5
– Slide that opening pick across the bottom edge, moving it toward the left corner. It’s like you’re cutting through butter! You’re slicing through that adhesive, baby!
– Now, keep that pick right there and slide it from the bottom left corner over to the bottom right corner. You’re basically giving that adhesive a high five, but with a tool!
– Leave that pick in the bottom right corner, just to make sure the adhesive doesn’t get all cozy and re-seal itself. We don’t want that, do we?
Step 6
– Let’s warm up that phone! Grab your iOpener and give the left edge a nice, warm hug for about a minute.
Tools Used
Step 7
– Now it’s time to get underneath that back panel – insert a second opening pick right above the charge port and get ready to make some progress!
– Gently slide the opening pick down to the bottom left corner of your phone, you’re doing great! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 8
That adhesive can be super sticky! No worries, just slide that pick back and forth like you’re sawing wood. It’ll help you cut through it.
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom left corner and then across the left side of the phone to cut through that pesky adhesive.
– Pause when you hit the top left corner, right near the camera, and keep the pick in place to hold your ground.
Step 9
– Get ready to unlock your phone’s full potential – start by heating up an iOpener and applying it to the right edge of your phone for about a minute. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 10
– Alright, cool beans! Keep those first two opening picks in place and slide a third pick onto the lower part of the righthand side.
– Now, give that opening pick a little slide up towards the top of the phone, cutting through the right side’s adhesive. You’re doing great!
– Stop when you reach the top right corner and leave that pick in place. You’re almost there!
Step 11
– Gently glide the third opening pick around the top right corner and across the top edge of the phone, carefully slicing through that last stubborn strip of adhesive.
Step 12
– Now that you’ve sliced around the phone’s perimeter, gently pry the right edge of the back cover open – think of it like opening a book. Be careful, okay?
– Don’t try to completely remove the panel just yet, since it’s still connected to the phone. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 13
– Keep swinging that back panel open until it’s resting comfortably on the phone’s left edge. Just be mindful not to put any pressure on that ribbon cable, okay? You don’t want to mess with that!
– Hey, now’s a great time to power up your phone and test everything out. You can thank us later. Just make sure you power it down completely before you continue, alright?
Step 14
As you tackle this repair, keep an eye on each screw and make sure it finds its way back to its original home.
– Let’s get down to business! First, you’ll want to take out those five T3 Torx screws that are holding the battery connector shield in place:
– Grab those four 4.0 mm screws and give them a twist!
– And don’t forget about that one little 2.1 mm screw – it’s just as important!
Step 15
– Grab some tweezers and pluck out that battery connector shield like you’re handling fine jewelry! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 16
Be careful when using the spudger near the battery – we don’t want any accidental punctures. If you’re not comfortable with this step, don’t worry, you can always schedule a repair
– Grab your trusty spudger (you know, the one with the pointy end) and gently pry up the battery connector from the motherboard. Think of it as giving the battery a little high-five, but without the clapping.
– Now, to reconnect this little fella, line it up like you’re playing a game of connector Tetris. Gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Remember, no pressure on the middle! We don’t want to bend any pins. If you’re struggling, don’t worry! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 18
– Alright, let’s get this party started! Grab your T3 Torx driver and give those two 4mm screws securing the back panel connector cover a little twist to loosen them up.
Step 19
– Time to get started! Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the cover from the back panel connector. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Tools Used
Step 21
– Let’s get that back panel off! Just gently remove it.
– When you’re putting everything back together, use this guide to install those custom-cut adhesives like a pro.
– Using a pre-cut adhesive card? No problem, follow this guide for a smooth install. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 22
Having trouble with those adhesive pull tabs? No worries, we’ve got you covered. Fill a plastic dropper or syringe with some high-concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and gently apply a few drops under the left edge of the battery. Give it a minute to work its magic and loosen up that stubborn adhesive.
If the adhesive starts to get tough to pull, don’t stress. Just wrap it around a spudger and keep on pulling – you got this!
Be prepared to use a bit of elbow grease, as this might take some force. But don’t worry, you’re making progress!
A heads up: these adhesive pull tabs can be pretty fragile, so be gentle and pull slowly to avoid any snaps. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– Get a grip on that yellow pull tab and gently but firmly pull it out – you got this!
– Keep pulling up on the adhesive strip with steady force. If you’re using a spudger, give it a little spin every now and then to keep things under control. Remember, slow and steady wins the game!
– Repeat this process for each of the three pull tabs. Don’t worry if they snap in half – it’s all part of the process. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair with Salvation Repair.
Tools Used
Step 23
Be careful not to insert the opening pick on or below the grip sensor cable, as this can cause damage to the charge port flex cable underneath the battery. If you’re unsure, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair and let the pros at Salvation Repair help you out.
Even if you removed all the adhesive pull tabs, using a pick to help separate the battery can be a real help!
If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
– If the battery tabs broke during removal, slide an opening pick under the top right edge of the battery to cut through the adhesive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 24
Be safe and smart – if your battery is deformed or damaged, it’s time to swap it out for a new one. Using a damaged battery can be a safety hazard, so let’s get that replaced. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
If there’s any leftover alcohol solution in your device, gently wipe it away with a lint-free cloth or let it air dry before popping in your battery. You’ve got this!