Google Pixel 3a Motherboard Replacement Guide

– Time to get started – insert a SIM eject tool, SIM eject bit, or even a trusty paper clip into the SIM tray hole. It’s easier than you think!

– Gently press to eject the tray. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Keep an eye on those two seams on your phone:

– Before you start prying, take a moment to check out these key areas on the screen:

– Screen seam: This is the magical line that separates the screen from the rest of the phone. It’s your go-to spot for prying.

– Frame seam: This is where the plastic frame meets the back cover, held together by screws. Steer clear of prying here.

– Screen flex cable: Remember, don’t pry deeper than we suggest, or you might end up damaging this delicate cable.

– Adhesive perimeter: Prying beyond the slim perimeter without angling your pick could harm the display panel. So, keep it cool and stay within the lines!

– Gently place a suction cup close to the right edge of the screen.

– Give that suction cup a firm and steady pull—you’re doing great!

– Slide the pick into the gap, but keep it no deeper than 1 mm.

– Get that pick in there – insert it 1 mm into the gap and then pivot it upwards to a nice steep angle. You got this!

– Now, carefully push the pick into the gap about 1/4″ (6 mm). It should slide in smoothly below the OLED panel. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Slide your tool along the right edge, like you’re cutting through butter.

– Leave your trusty tool in place so the adhesive doesn’t get all clingy again.

– Gently glide the pick around the bottom right corner to cut through that sticky adhesive.

– Keep on slicing along the bottom edge of the phone and around the left corner like a pro!

– Gently slice through the left edge of the phone, carefully angling the pick below the OLED panel and sliding it in no more than 1/4″ (6 mm).

– To finesse the pick below the OLED panel, insert the tip of the pick just 1 mm in, angle it upwards, and slowly push it in 1/4″.

– Gently glide your pick along the top edge, making sure to keep it within 5/16″ (8 mm) of the surface. You’re doing great!

– Alrighty, awesome job! Now, let’s conquer this next step together. Super gently, we’ll lift the right edge of the screen. And, for any stubborn bits, our trusty opening pick will help us slice through that adhesive. Easy peasy, right? Need a lil’ help? No worries, you can always schedule a repair!

– After all the adhesives are sliced up, flip the attached screen glass-side down and rest it on top of the phone, letting the screen flex cable chill in a loose arch. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently peel away the black tape that’s securing the screen connector bracket. Treat it like a delicate flower!

– Unscrew those two T3 screws, each measuring 4.4 mm, holding the screen connector bracket in place. A little twist and they’ll be free!

– Now, lift off the screen connector bracket. It’s like unboxing a surprise—exciting, right?

– If the tape looks good, give it a second chance and reuse it during reassembly! If it’s looking a bit worse for wear, no worries—just grab a piece of electrical tape as a replacement.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect that screen flex cable. You’ve got this!

– When it’s time to re-attach, align those connectors like a pro! Press down on one side until you hear that satisfying click, and then give the other side some love too. Remember, no need to press down right in the middle! If things get misaligned, the pins might bend, leading to not-so-fun permanent damage. Stay sharp!

– Alright, let’s get this screen swap going! First things first, remove that old screen.

– Now, take a peek at your brand new screen and compare it to the original. You might need to move a few parts (like the speaker mesh) over to the new screen. It’s like a mini-transplant!

– Ready to put that new screen in? Awesome! Follow these steps:

– Once you’ve put everything back together, your screen will go through a little calibration party during the boot-up process. Don’t touch it during the calibration show! You might mess up the touch calibration, and that’s no fun.

– If you’re using custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide .

– If you’re using double-sided tape like Tesa tape, follow this guide .

– If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Time to unscrew! Grab your trusty T3 screwdriver and remove the fourteen screws holding that plastic midframe in place. Here’s what you’re looking for:

– As you work your magic, keep an eye on those screws! Make sure each one finds its way back to its original home.

– Twelve shiny 4.3 mm silver T3 screws

– Two sleek 4.3 mm black T3 screws

– Let’s get this phone open! Slide an opening pick into the seam at the bottom of your phone, where the plastic midframe meets the back cover. You’ll feel a slight give.

– Now, gently slide that pick along the seam to release the clips holding the midframe in place. It’s like giving the phone a little massage!

– Alright, let’s get this party started! Slide that opening pick along the left and right edges of your phone to free those midframe clips.

– Now, give the bottom edge of the plastic midframe a little lift. Don’t yank it off just yet, though, because it’s still hanging on by that delicate proximity sensor cable at the top.

– To put everything back together, just line up the midframe with the back cover and give the phone a good squeeze all around. Those clips will snap right back into place.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift up to disconnect the proximity sensor connector from the motherboard—easy does it!

– Next, let’s get that plastic midframe out of the way.

– Let’s reconnect that proximity sensor! This step will help you put it back where it belongs.

– Line up the top edge of the plastic midframe with the phone. You got this!

– Use the tip of a spudger to carefully align and push the proximity sensor connector onto the motherboard socket. It might take a little patience, but you’re doing great! Once the connector is in place, you can gently press it onto the socket with your finger.

– Gently pry the proximity sensor out of its recess on the midframe. The sensor is lightly adhered to the midframe.

– Remove the sensor from the midframe. Attach the sensor connector onto its motherboard socket.

– Thread the sensor cable through the midframe and reposition the sensor in the recess. Press down with your finger to adhere the sensor back onto the midframe.

– If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Time to get started. Use your trusty spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the motherboard. Take your time, it’s an easy step.

– Now, gently bend the battery flex cable so it doesn’t accidentally make contact with the socket. You’re doing great, keep it up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Now, grab your trusty spudger and use its pointy end to gently pry up and disconnect the interconnect flex cable from its motherboard socket. It’s like giving the cable a little nudge to say “see ya later!” If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Now, grab your trusty spudger and give that left squeeze sensor cable connector a little nudge. Gently pry it up and disconnect it from its home on the motherboard socket. You got this!

– Let’s get those buttons disconnected! Use the point of a spudger to gently pry up the right buttons connector from its motherboard socket.

– Now, let’s give that right squeeze sensor cable connector some love. Carefully pry it up from its motherboard socket. You’re doing great!

– Unscrew the lone 2.7 mm T3 screw that’s holding the motherboard in place on the right edge. You’ve got this!

– Slide the flat end of your trusty spudger under the right edge of the motherboard and gently lift it up to set the board free.

– Now it’s time to get the motherboard into position. Gently grasp the right edge and swing it to the left until it’s lying flat. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently leverage it to lift and detach the fingerprint sensor cable from its cozy spot on the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect that pesky white antenna cable from its cozy spot on the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Now, take care as you untangle the cable from its clips. Carefully de-route it so it can breathe a little easier.

– Time to get started. Use your trusty spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the black antenna cable from its socket on the motherboard.

– Next, gently de-route the cable from the retaining clip to free it up.

– Gently take out the motherboard like you’re lifting a delicate cake from the oven!