Google Pixel 2 Loudspeaker Replacement Guide – DIY Repair

– Hey there! If your display glass is cracked, be sure to tape it up to prevent any more chips and to protect yourself from getting poked by shards. This also makes it easier to get a grip with the suction cup.

– Now, get your suction cup and stick it as close to the volume button edge of your phone as possible, but avoid the curved edges, you know, just be cool and careful.

– Grab that suction cup and give it a good pull! Use steady pressure and slide an opening pick between the front panel and rear case. You got this! 💪

– Keep that pick at a friendly distance—no more than 9 mm deep into the bottom edge of your phone. If it happens to poke the folded part of the OLED panel, you might find yourself in a bit of a display pickle!

– When you’re making those gentle cuts in the upper left corner, remember: we’re going for finesse here! Prying too deeply could put the front-facing camera in a bit of a jam.

– Slide that opening pick up the right side of the phone like you’re giving it a little nudge to get the display adhesive to let go. It’s like saying ‘Hey, party’s over, time to move along!’ to the adhesive.

– Let’s get this party started! Slide the opening pick around the upper-right corner and along the top edge of the phone. It’s like a little dance, but with tools!

– Alright, let’s get this party started! Slide the pick around the upper-left corner of the phone, and then glide it down the left edge. Think of it like you’re giving your phone a little dance move. Get it?

– Slide the sassy pick around the bottom-left corner and along the bottom of your phone. Keep pickin’ at a slight angle away from the screen to avoid any screen damage!

– Now, take that pick and slide it along the top edge of your phone, like you’re giving it a little tickle. Gently pry up the display – just enough to get things going.

– Gently place the display down on top of the rear case as shown. Just be careful not to crease or tear the display ribbon cable.

– Take out the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws that are holding the display cable bracket in place.

– Throughout the repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Go ahead and take off the display cable bracket. You’ve got this!

– Alright, time to disconnect that display cable! Gently lift it up and out of its socket on the motherboard using the pointy end of your spudger. It’s like a little dance, see?

– Now, to put it back, carefully align the connector and press down on one side until you hear a satisfying click. Then, repeat on the other side. Don’t press on the middle, you don’t want to bend those delicate pins!

– If your screen is acting a little funny after your repair, try re-seating this connector. Make sure it’s snug and there’s nothing blocking the socket.

– Alright, almost there! Before you put everything back together, take a moment to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display. It’ll keep everything nice and secure.

– Warm up that iOpener and give some love to the proximity sensor nestled on the top edge of the midframe for a good two minutes. This will loosen up its adhesive so we can get in there smoothly.

– Let’s get that proximity sensor cable lifted! Start by gently slipping the tip of your trusty spudger under the cable, starting from the side nearest the front-facing camera.

– Now, with a light touch, lift the edge of the sensor cable until it’s standing up straight, like a happy little sensor, perpendicular to the midframe. You’ve got this!

– Alright, time to get groovy with some screws! Peel back that little piece of tape covering the screw underneath the earpiece speaker. Go ahead and peel back any other tape hiding those screws, too.

– Now let’s remove those screws holding the midframe in place. You’ll find:

– Throughout this repair, remember to keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back in its original spot. You wouldn’t want to lose your mind (and a screw!).

– Eleven 3.7 mm Phillips screws

– One 4 mm T5 Torx screw

– Start by inserting an opening tool into the notch in the midframe, right near the hold button – it’s the perfect spot to get started.

– Gently pry the midframe up to create a gap between it and the phone case. Don’t worry, you won’t be able to remove it completely just yet, but you’re making great progress. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Time to get this repair started – gently lift the midframe from the bottom edge, you got this!

– As the midframe reaches a 45° angle with the rest of the phone, carefully lift it straight up and away, it’s like a little dance move.

– While lifting, be sure to guide the proximity sensor through its designated slot in the midframe, don’t worry, it’s easier than it sounds. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Now, take your trusty spudger and gently pry up that battery connector. Don’t be afraid to use a little muscle, but be careful not to damage anything. We want that battery to stay happy and healthy!

– Alright, now let’s disconnect that charging assembly connector. Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry it off. It’s like giving the connector a little hug, but with a tool. Just be careful not to bend any pins. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Using the point of a spudger, carefully lift the white antenna cable connector straight up to disconnect it from the charging assembly board. It’s like giving the connector a little high five!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the white antenna cable straight up, freeing it from the metal clips on the board and out of the loudspeaker’s channel.

– Now, slide the cable to the left side of the phone to keep it cozy and out of the loudspeaker’s way.

– When it’s time to put everything back together, just be sure to route that antenna cable back into its comfy spot—it’s like tucking it in for a good night’s sleep!

– Gently nudge the tip of your spudger under the black antenna cable connector and lift it straight up to disconnect it. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently lift the black antenna cable out of its cozy little channel on the loudspeaker.

– Now, slide that cable up towards the top of the phone to keep it out of the loudspeaker’s way. You’re doing great!

– Now, we’re going to gently nudge that speaker cable connector out of its socket. Grab your spudger and use the tip to push the connector out horizontally. Think of it like a little dance – alternate pushing each side of the connector a tiny bit at a time until it pops free. No need to be rough, just a little encouragement is all it takes! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Let’s get this party started! Kick off by gently prying up the loudspeaker assembly with an opening tool, like you’re inviting it to the dance. Then, be ourDJ and hold that silver charging assembly cable out of the way while you werk. Just make sure you don’t overdo it and harm the cable by bending it too much or applying extra stress, okay?

– Let’s get that loudspeaker out! Grab the top right corner and rotate it towards the top of your phone. Then, slide the whole assembly to the right. You got this!

– Now you can remove that loudspeaker. You’re doing great! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair