DIY Samsung Galaxy Note9 Rear Camera Replacement Guide

– Grab your trusty SIM card eject tool and slide it straight into the little hole on the SIM card tray.

– Give it a gentle press to pop that SIM card tray out like a pro.

– Pop out that SIM card tray like a pro! You’ve got this!

– First things first, let’s give your phone a little snooze. Power it off before diving in!

– Now, grab your trusty hairdryer, heat gun, or an iOpener. Warm up the right edge of the back of the phone for about a minute to loosen that sticky adhesive holding everything together.

– Grab your trusty suction handle and give the back cover a big hug.

– Now, gently lift that handle to create a teeny tiny gap between the back cover and the phone’s frame.

– Slide an opening pick into that gap – just enough to make a friend with the inside.

– Alright, there’s a bit more sticky stuff along the top and around the camera than the rest of the phone. Don’t worry, it’s all part of the plan!

– Now, get ready to carefully cut around the left edge near the fingerprint sensor. Be super gentle here, you don’t wanna nick the ribbon cable inside. Take your time! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Begin at the center and gently slice through the adhesive vertically along the right side using an opening pick.

– Pop an opening pick into the upper-right corner to give yourself a little wiggle room.

– Grab another opening pick and gently slice through the adhesive around the bottom-right corner.

– Keep that opening pick snugly in place while you work your magic!

– Grab your trusty heat gun, hair dryer, or a cozy heated iOpener and warm up the left side of the rear panel for about three minutes. This will help loosen that stubborn adhesive lurking underneath. Remember, a little heat goes a long way!

– Let’s get started by inserting an opening pick into the lower-left corner of the rear panel – easy does it!

– Now, grab another opening pick and carefully cut the adhesive along the left edge of the rear panel. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Now it’s time to get a little tricky – use that opening pick you inserted to carefully slice through the adhesive around the upper-left corner of the rear panel. Take your time, you’re doing great!

– Almost there! Use your pick to cut through the last bit of adhesive along the top of the phone. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Let’s start by getting the right side of the rear cover loose. It’s like a little dance move!

– Now, gently tilt the cover up along the left edge. You’ll see the fingerprint sensor ribbon cable, which is just waiting to say hello!

– Now, let’s get that fingerprint sensor ribbon cable out of its socket! Grab your trusty spudger and use the tip to gently pry it up. It’s like giving it a little high-five, but with a tool instead of your hand.

– Let’s get that back cover off!

– To put the back cover back on, first we gotta clean up a bit. You can use tweezers to pick off any remaining adhesive, then give the phone chassis a good scrub with some high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. That’ll make sure the surface is ready for new adhesive. Don’t worry about getting every last bit of old adhesive off, but make sure you remove the bigger chunks.

– Time for a test drive! Power up your phone and make sure everything is working fine before you get all glued up.

– Now, it’s time to apply the new adhesive to the back cover, and then carefully line up one edge of the glass with the phone chassis. Press the glass firmly onto the phone. You got this!

– Let’s get started by removing the nine 4mm screws that hold the upper midframe in place – grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get to work. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Let’s get this upper midframe outta here! Slide the tip of your spudger into the upper-left corner of the upper midframe.

– Now, gently pry that midframe out of the phone. You got this!

– Gently peel away the wireless charging coil from the battery, starting from the left side. Take your time—it’s like unwrapping a present!

– When it’s time to put things back together, start by snapping the midframe into place before you stick down that wireless charging coil. It’s all about getting the foundation right!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry apart that cheerful orange ribbon cable connecting the battery to the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Time to unscrew! Carefully take out the nine 4 mm Phillips screws holding the plastic cover next to the battery. You’ve got this!

– Pop off the plastic cover next to the battery like you’re peeling a sticker off your favorite notebook.

– Time to get started – insert the tip of a spudger into the top of the lower midframe, it’s the first step to freeing it up.

– Gently pry the lower midframe out from the phone, taking your time to avoid any damage.

– You’re making progress – remove the lower midframe and set it aside, you’re one step closer to a fully functional device. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Time to get that front camera out – use the tip of a spudger to carefully pry the connector straight up and out of its socket. Take your time, it’s easier than you think!

– Now, grab those tweezers and gently remove the front camera. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Now, let’s gently disconnect that iris scanner from the motherboard. Grab your spudger and use the tip to carefully pry it loose.

– Time to say goodbye to the iris scanner! Use your trusty tweezers to remove it. You’re doing great!

– Now, grab that trusty spudger and use the flat end to gently coax that front sensor connector out of its socket. It’s like giving it a little nudge to say “see ya later!”

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently use its flat end to unhook that display cable from the motherboard. You’re doing great, keep it up!

– Now, let’s gently disconnect that touchscreen cable from the motherboard. Using the flat end of your spudger, give it a little nudge. Easy peasy!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the flat end to disconnect the charging assembly from the motherboard. You’re almost there!

– Time to remove those three little Phillips screws holding the motherboard in place! They’re 4 mm, just a heads up.

– Look for the triangles next to the screw holes – they’re like little guides to help you find the motherboard screw spots. Easy peasy!

– Use a spudger to gently lift the motherboard from the upper-left corner. It’s like giving it a little high five, but with a tool!

– Carefully remove the motherboard. You got this! Remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Now it’s time to carefully disconnect the rear camera – use the tip of a spudger to gently pry the connector straight up and out from the motherboard. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Grab a heat gun, a hair dryer, or a warm iOpener and give it a go on that rear camera area for about a minute. This will help soften up the sticky stuff holding the camera in place, making your repair a breeze! Remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the motherboard with care.

– Using your thumbnails, nudge those metal bezels to loosen the rear camera from the motherboard.

– Pause when you notice the rear camera starting to come away from the motherboard. No need to completely remove it just yet!

– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger into the tiny gap between the rear camera and the motherboard. No pressure, just a light touch!

– Give it a little lift to cheerfully detach the rear camera from its cozy spot on the motherboard.

– Time to give that rear camera some freedom! Gently remove it from the motherboard. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair