Samsung Galaxy S23 Plus Rear Cameras Replacement

– First things first, let’s get those cables unplugged from your phone. You know, just to be safe and all.

– Now, hold down the side key and the volume down button. Then, choose “Power off” to give your phone a little break.

– Get your trusty iOpener warmed up and give the right edge of the back cover a nice two-minute hug. This’ll help loosen up that stubborn adhesive.

– Alright, let’s get this back cover off! Stick that suction handle onto the back cover, right near the center of the right edge. You want it as close as you can get.

– Now, grab the handle and give it a good, steady pull upwards. You’re aiming to create a little gap between the cover and the frame.

– See that gap? Great! Slide in your opening pick. You’re ready for the next step!

– Let’s slide that pick back and forth along the right edge to loosen up the adhesive.

– Keep that pick in place near the bottom right corner so the adhesive doesn’t stick back together. You got this!

– Warm up your iOpener and cozy it up to the bottom edge of the back cover for a couple of minutes.

– Now it’s time to bring in some extra help – insert a second pick at the bottom right corner to get a better grip.

– Gently rotate the opening pick around the bottom right corner to loosen the adhesive and make progress on your repair. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Glide the pick to the bottom left corner to break the adhesive.

– Keep the pick in the bottom left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back.

– Warm up a trusty iOpener and gently press it against the left edge of the back cover for a cozy two minutes.

– Swing that opening pick around the bottom left corner to gently break the adhesive.

– Hey there, techy friend! Slide open the wallet full of handy tools at the bottom left corner with this nifty pick.

– Now, let’s help this gadget break free! Gently slide your trusty pick toward the top left corner to separate those sticky situations – we’ve all got ’em.

– Hold up, we’re not done yet! Keep that pick planted in the top left corner, like a friendly neighborhood superhero. This helps make sure those sticky friends don’t reunite before we’re ready.

– Get your trusty iOpener nice and toasty by heating it up for a couple of minutes. Then, gently apply it to the top edge of the back cover to loosen up that adhesive.

– Let’s get that top left corner open! Insert a fourth opening pick into the top left corner.

– Now, give that pick a little spin around the corner to loosen up that adhesive. We’re almost there!

– Let’s get this party started by sliding your opening pick towards the top right corner. We’re going to separate that adhesive like it’s nobody’s business.

– Leave that pick in the top right corner to keep that adhesive from getting cozy again. We don’t want it getting too comfortable, right?

– Align the tip of an opening pick with the flash cutout.

– Gently slide the opening pick under the top of the back cover until you feel it catch on the adhesive.

– Continue sliding the pick toward the bottom of the phone until the adhesive is completely separated from the back cover.

– Let’s get this back cover off, no problem! Just grab it and pull it off.

– During reassembly:

– This is a perfect time to power on your device and make sure everything is working like a charm before you seal it up. Remember to turn it back off completely before continuing.

– If those adhesive chunks are hanging around, use tweezers or your fingers to remove them. If you’re having a tough time getting rid of the adhesive, a little heat and isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) should do the trick.

– For custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide .

– If you’re using double-sided tape, follow this guide.

– Use the pointy end of your spudger to gently lift and disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector from the motherboard.

– To reconnect, carefully line up the connector and press down on one side until it clicks into place. Then, repeat on the other side. Avoid pressing down on the middle of the connector. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Alrighty, friend! Let’s unplug that NFC antenna! Use your trusty spudger to gently lift and disconnect the press connector, and you’ll be one step closer to a good-as-new device! If you need a hand, you can always schedule a repair!

– Alright, time to get those screws out! Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew those thirteen 3.5 mm long screws that are holding down the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker. That’s six screws for the charging coil and seven for the loudspeaker. You got this!

– Slide the tip of your spudger into the little notch at the top left corner of the loudspeaker.

– Gently pry upwards to release the loudspeaker from its cozy spot in the frame.

– Hey there, tech aficionado! Time to tackle this fun project – disconnecting the lovable loudspeaker from the frame. Be our handy hero and use your trusty digits to gently lift the loudspeaker, giving it a playful wiggle until it’s free. Next, bid farewell to the wireless charging coil’s friendship by removing it as well. Once you’ve tackled these two, it’s time to reassemble and clip in the loudspeaker for a seamless finish. Don’t forget, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair to get back on track!

– Now it’s time to carefully disconnect the battery press connector – use the point of your spudger to gently pry it up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Now it’s time to carefully disconnect the earpiece speaker press connector – use the tip of a spudger to gently pry it up. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and give those five 3.5mm screws holding the earpiece speaker in place a little spin to the left. You got this!

– Let’s get this earpiece speaker out! Carefully slide the flat end of your spudger between the bottom edge of the earpiece speaker and the sliver shield on the motherboard.

– Give that spudger a little twist to gently unclip the earpiece speaker from the frame. Then, you can easily remove it.

– When you’re putting everything back together, start by placing the top end of the earpiece speaker into the frame first. Then, press down and clip it back in. Nice and easy!

– Now it’s time to get a little handy – use your trusty spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the primary and secondary interconnect cable press connectors from the daughterboard. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Now, let’s do the same thing for the primary and secondary interconnect cable connectors on the motherboard. You got this!

– Go ahead and disconnect those interconnect cables!

– Gently slide the tip of your trusty spudger between the left edge of the antenna press connector and that shiny silver plate on the motherboard.

– Give it a little nudge to pry up and disconnect the antenna press connector. You’ve got this!

– Let’s take a peek under the hood! Use your trusty spudger to gently pry up and disconnect the display and 5G mmWave cable press connectors from the motherboard. No need to get rough, just a little encouragement to get them uncoupled. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Now, grab your trusty spudger and give that front camera press connector a gentle nudge. It’s time to disconnect it!

– Alright, champ, grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and pop out those two tiny 3.5mm screws holding the motherboard in place. You got this!

– Slide the flat end of your spudger into the gap between the top edge of the motherboard and the frame, right by the earpiece speaker cutout.

– Give that spudger a little twist to gently lift the motherboard up and out of the frame until you can grab it with your fingers.

– Now, go ahead and remove the motherboard.

– When you’re putting everything back together, remember to keep all the cables out of the way before sliding the motherboard back into its cozy spot in the frame.

– Flip that motherboard over, so we can get a good look at those rear camera connectors.

– Grab your trusty spudger tool and gently pry up and disconnect that ultrawide camera connector. It’s like giving it a little high five, but with a tool.

– The ultrawide camera is held in place by metal pegs, connected to the motherboard and the main camera.

– With a gentle hand, lift the ultrawide camera out of its peg holes, carefully removing it from its cozy spot. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Time to get started – use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the main camera press connector. Take your time and it’ll come loose in no time.

– Now it’s time to set the main camera free – gently lift it off the motherboard and remove it. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Time to get started – use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the telephoto camera press connector. Take your time and work gently to avoid any damage.

– Now it’s time to lift the telephoto camera off the motherboard and remove it. This is a great opportunity to take a closer look and make sure everything is in order.

– When you’re reassembling, remember to reinstall the rear cameras in the opposite order – think of it like a puzzle (Telephoto → Main → Ultrawide). If you need help or get stuck, you can always schedule a repair with the experts at Salvation Repair.

– Hey, the three rear cameras are still there! It’s like a party in the back – and everyone’s invited.