How to Replace Samsung Galaxy A15 USB-C Charging Port
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 29 Steps
Get ready to swap out the USB-C charging port and daughterboard on your Samsung Galaxy A15 with this handy guide! When it’s time to put everything back together, don’t forget to grab some replacement adhesive for that back cover. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
– First things first, unplug all those pesky cables and make sure your phone is totally powered down.
– Now, press and hold both the power and volume down buttons together. This will pull up the shutdown menu for you!
Step 2
Feeling a bit chilly? A hair dryer can help warm things up, but watch out! You don’t want to turn your phone into a sauna. The display, internal battery, and plastic back can get a little too cozy with heat and might end up having a meltdown. Aim for the phone to be warm, but not so hot that it feels like it’s been sunbathing for too long!
– Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy two-minute hug on the right edge of the back cover.
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Step 3
Hey there! Just a heads up, there’s an extra sticky layer of adhesive hanging out near the bottom of your phone. Other than that spot, keep your digging to no more than 4 mm from the edge. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– While the adhesive is taking its sweet time to soften, here’s a little nugget of info for you:
– The back cover is held in place by adhesive all around the edge of the frame.
Step 4
If you’re having a bit of a struggle, feel free to crank up the heat a notch to help loosen that stubborn adhesive.
– Grab a suction handle and place it on the back cover, aiming to get it as close to the center of the right edge as you can.
– Give that suction handle a good pull with steady force to pop open a gap between the cover and the frame.
– Slide an opening pick into that gap you just created.
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Step 5
– Gently slide your opening pick along the right edge, sneaking it between the back cover and the frame to cut through that sticky adhesive.
– Keep your opening pick wedged in the bottom right corner to ensure that pesky adhesive doesn’t seal up again.
Step 6
– Warm up your iOpener and stick it to the bottom of the back cover for a cozy two minutes.
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Step 7
– Pop in another opening pick at the bottom right corner and gently glide it along the bottom edge to slice through that sticky adhesive like a pro.
– Keep your opening pick snug in the bottom left edge to stop the adhesive from sealing up again. You’re doing great!
Step 8
– Warm up your iOpener and give it a cozy hug on the left side of the back cover for a solid two minutes.
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Step 9
Keep your pick to a max depth of 4 mm—this way, you won’t accidentally bump into the rear cameras or flash!
– Pop another opening pick into that bottom left corner and glide it along the left edge to cut through the adhesive like a pro.
– Keep your opening pick snug in the top left corner to stop that adhesive from trying to seal back up. You’re doing great!
Step 10
– Warm up your iOpener and gently press it against the top of the back cover for a cozy two-minute stay.
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Step 11
– Pop in another opening pick at the top left corner, matching the depth you’ve got going on, and glide it along the top edge to cut through that sticky adhesive.
– Keep your opening pick resting in the top right corner to stop the adhesive from sealing back up. You’re doing great!
Step 12
Be careful and only slide your pick in about 4 mm—let’s keep those rear cameras and flash safe and sound!
– Gently slide your opening pick into the top edge of your phone and give it a little twist to pop those camera clips free.
– Now, take that trusty pick and glide it around the edges of the camera modules to release the rest of those clips!
Step 13
– Once the adhesive around the edges starts to give a little, slide your trusty opening pick deeper into the bottom edge, starting from the bottom left corner.
– Now, glide that pick along the bottom edge of the phone, cutting through the remaining adhesive like a pro.
Step 14
Now’s your moment to power up your phone and check that everything’s working like a charm before you seal it up tight! Just remember to turn it off completely again before diving back into the repair.
– Gently lift and take off the back cover.
– Now, let’s get into the reassembly groove:
– Use tweezers or your fingers to clear away any sticky adhesive bits. If they’re being stubborn, a little heat and some isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher) should do the trick!
– Got custom-cut adhesives? Check out this guide for tips.
– Using double-sided tape? No worries, follow this guide for a smooth application.
Step 15
– Grab your trusty SIM card eject tool, a bit, or even a straightened paperclip. Slide it into the tiny hole on the SIM tray, which is hanging out towards the top of the phone on the left edge.
– Give it a good press to pop the tray out and voilà, you’re ready to go!
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Step 16
– Go ahead and unscrew those fifteen 4 mm-long screws that are holding the frame snug against the chassis. You’ve got this!
Step 17
– Grab that trusty flat end of your spudger and gently lift up to disconnect the fingerprint button press connector from the motherboard. You’re doing great!
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Step 18
– Start by gently sliding your trusty opening pick right above the SIM card tray cutout to create a little gap between the frame and the phone.
– Now, glide that pick down the left side of your device to release those pesky frame clips.
Step 19
If your opening pick decides to take a little vacation from the phone, simply pop it back in at the last corner that wasn’t secured. No biggie!
– Keep gliding your opening pick around the edges of the phone until every last clip is happily unlatched.
Step 21
– Grab that trusty spudger and gently lift up to disconnect the battery press connector from the motherboard. You’ve got this!
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Step 22
Hey there! The connector that says ‘OCTA’ isn’t hanging out with the board; it’s actually chilling with the display cable connector. Just make sure to separate those connectors from each other before moving on!
– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the top edge of the ‘OCTA’ cable connector.
– Carefully lift the top connector away from the bottom one until they’re completely free from each other.
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Step 24
– Grab that trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end under the “MAIN” connector on the motherboard. Give it a little pry to pop it up and disconnect it like a pro!
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Step 25
– Grab that interconnect cable and gently detach it from the phone.
Step 26
Handle that red antenna cable with care as you detach it from its holder—nobody wants a cable casualty!
– Gently slide one arm of your angled tweezers under the metal neck of the red antenna coaxial connector on the daughterboard and lift it straight up to disconnect it. Easy peasy!
– Now, do the same for the other connector. You got this!
– When it’s time to reassemble, use those tweezers to hold the connector right over its socket and give it a gentle press down with your finger or a spudger. You should hear a satisfying ‘snap’ as it clicks into place. If it’s being a bit stubborn, just reposition and give it another go. You’re doing great!
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Step 27
– Gently slide your spudger under the flex ribbon connector and give it a little nudge to pop it off the board. Easy peasy!
– When you’re putting things back together, keep an eye out for the adhesive that holds this connector to the daughterboard. If your shiny new daughterboard doesn’t come with it, just grab some thin, double-sided adhesive to keep everything snug and secure!
Tools Used
Step 28
– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and get ready to take out that 3 mm-long screw that’s keeping the daughterboard snug in the phone. You’ve got this!
Step 29
– Carefully hold the daughterboard by its edges and gently lift it up and out of the phone. You’re almost there!
