DIY Guide to Replace PlayStation 5 Power Supply

– To begin, give your PlayStation 5 a new perspective by turning it upside down with the stand facing skyward.

– Using either a coin or a flathead screwdriver, unscrew the 26.5 mm-long stand screw.

– Gently lift straight up to free the stand from its spot.

– Pop the screw into the little slot at the bottom of the stand. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers or just your fingernail and pop that cap off the cubby like a pro!

– Now, use your finger to gently press the cap back into the screw hole. You’re doing great!

– Give the stand a little twist to the left and watch that cubby close up nice and tidy!

– If your PlayStation 5 is lying down like a champ, flip it over so the charging port is pointing up to the sky.

– Now, give that stand a gentle lift straight up to set it free.

– With a smile on your face, flip the device over to reveal the USB and ethernet ports on the left side.

– Gently lift the corner of the faceplate to release it from the case with ease.

– As you gently lift the corner, give that faceplate a little nudge downwards so it can slide right off the bottom of your device.

– Say goodbye to the right faceplate as you carefully remove it.

– Wedge the flat end of a spudger under the grille and into the gap above the fan.

– Use the spudger to lift the grille away from the case.

– Gently lift the grille off the case to get it out of the way. Need help? You can always schedule a repair.

– Grab a TR8 Torx security driver and let’s pop out the four screws holding the fan shroud to the case:

– Two 23.3 mm screws

– One 11.4 mm screw

– One 31 mm screw

– Gently lift the fan shroud straight up to set it free.

– Slide the flat end of a spudger under the black wire cover and into the gap above the fan wires.

– Use the spudger to lift the wire cover until you can grip it with your fingers.

– Gently use your fingers to lift off the wire cover like you’re peeling a banana. Easy peasy!

– Grab the edges of that fan cable connector with your fingers and gently lift it up to unplug it from the motherboard. You’re doing great!

– Gently lift the fan out of the case and set it aside. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and take out that 17 mm-long screw holding the SSD cover in place. You’ve got this!

– Give that SSD cover a gentle nudge upwards with your finger to pop it free from the case. It’s like a little dance move for your device!

– Now, go ahead and lift off the SSD cover completely. You’ve got this!

– Get a good grip on those edges of the optical drive cable connector with your fingers, then give it a gentle pull upwards to disconnect it from the motherboard.

– Gently grab the edges of the optical drive cable connector with your fingers and pull it up to disconnect it from the optical drive. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently peel away that sneaky tamper-evident sticker that’s hiding the last case screw. You’ve got this!

– Alright, time to bust out your trusty T8 Torx driver and prep for some screw-slinging action! You’re looking at removing a grand total of eleven screws to crack open this case: six 18.6 mm-long screws, two 23.3 mm-long screws, two 43.2 mm-long screws, and the teeny tiny 7.3 mm-long screw that’s playing hard to get. Let’s show these screws who’s boss!

– Gently lift the case straight up to pop it off like a champ!

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its flat end to gently press down on the metal locking tab of the optical drive connector. You got this!

– Now that the metal tab is down, take a pair of tweezers and give that blue pull tab a little tug, pulling it straight away from the connector to disconnect the cable from the optical drive. Easy peasy!

– Gently lift the optical drive out of the device to set it free.

– Get ready to show that optical drive connector who’s boss by using the flat end of a spudger to press down on its metal locking tab.

– Once the metal tab is feeling the pressure, grab a pair of tweezers and gently pull the blue pull tab straight away from the connector to disconnect the cable from the motherboard.

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently tug on that blue pull tab, pulling it straight away from the connector. This will help you disconnect the power and eject button ribbon cable like a pro!

– Grab your trusty tweezers and gently pull that blue tab straight out from the connector. This will help you disconnect the LED ribbon cable like a pro!

– Grab those tweezers and get a hold of the white Wi-Fi antenna wire at the metal base, right next to the connector.

– Gently lift the wire’s connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

– Do the same for the black Wi-Fi antenna wire.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and gently hold onto the black or blue power supply antenna wire right at its metal base, as close to the connector as you can get.

– Carefully lift the wire’s connector straight up to free it from the motherboard.

– Now, do the same for the white power supply antenna wire.

– Grab a pair of tweezers and with a smile, gently peel off that white sticker that’s holding the antenna wires down to the top shield plate.

– Say ‘See ya later!’ to the antenna wires as you carefully remove them from under the sticker.

– Give that white sticker a little love tap as you press it back onto the top shield plate so it’s all ready to be used again.

– Follow the same moves to lift off the last four stickers.

– Grab some tweezers and gently lift the white sticker that’s keeping the LED ribbon cable cozy on the heat sink.

– Carefully detach the LED ribbon cable from its sticker buddy.

– Give that white sticker a little press back onto the heat sink so it’s ready for its next adventure!

– Grab your trusty T8 Torx driver and let’s tackle those forty-two screws holding the top shield plate in place:

– First up, you’ve got forty-one screws that measure 7.3 mm long, and then there’s that one special screw that’s 43.2 mm long.

– Gently lift the top shield plate off the motherboard to set it free.

– When you’re putting things back together, this is a perfect moment to swap out any thermal pads on the top of the main board if needed. Just a heads up, those pads might be a little clingy, sticking to both the top shield plate and the main board.

– Gently push down on the metal locking tab of the USB board cable’s connector with your finger.

– With the tab pressed, use the flat end of a spudger on the insulating foam pad of the ribbon cable and pull it straight out to disconnect it. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Gently lift the corner of the faceplate where the PlayStation logo is hanging out to release it from the case.

– As you lift up that corner, give the faceplate a little nudge towards the bottom of your device.

– Now, go ahead and pop off the left faceplate!

– Grab your trusty Torx T8 driver and let’s get to work! Carefully remove those two 29.4 mm-long screws that are holding the case snugly against the motherboard and heat sink assembly. You’ve got this!

– Gently lift the front edge of the case away from the motherboard and heat sink assembly. You’re doing great!

– With that front edge up, give the case a little nudge backward, away from the motherboard and heat sink assembly, to free the charging port from its cozy spot.

– Now, go ahead and remove the case completely. Nice job!

– Just a heads up: the front plate might separate from the plastic case. When you’re putting everything back together, make sure the front plate is snugly in place before you pop the motherboard and power supply back in.

– Press down on the rear shield plate with your finger to keep it steady against the surface. You’ve got this!

– Grab the power supply and give it a gentle but firm lift straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard. Easy peasy!