DIY Guide: Replace Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge Charging Port Daughterboard
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 23 Steps
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to take your time and be careful while working on your device. If you run into any bumps along the way, don’t hesitate to reach out for help. You can always schedule a repair if you need a hand!
Get ready to tackle the task of swapping out a faulty charging port daughterboard in your Samsung Galaxy S6! This little gem houses the audio jack, charging port, and those handy side buttons. Just a heads up, you’ll need to remove the rear glass to get to it, and doing so will mean saying goodbye to the adhesive keeping it snug. But don’t worry, we’ll guide you through the process of reattaching that rear glass like a pro. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Avoid poking the tool into the microphone opening, or you might end up causing some trouble! Seek out the SIM tray’s silhouette instead.
– Grab a paper clip or SIM eject tool and pop it into the hole in the SIM card slot at the top of your phone.
– Give it a little press to eject that SIM card tray.
– Now, just slide the SIM card tray out of your phone. Simple as that!
Step 2
For carousel microwaves: Ensure that the plate can spin without any hiccups. If your iOpener gets jammed, it might just overheat and cause a little burn action.
Before you dive in, give your microwave a little TLC. A clean surface will ensure that no pesky residue gets stuck to the iOpener while you’re working your magic.
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up a bit.
Tools Used
Step 3
Hey there! Just a heads up—let’s keep that iOpener from getting too toasty during your repair adventure. If it overheats, it might just pop like a surprise party balloon! Aim to keep it under 100˚C (212˚F).
If your iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit puffed up, steer clear! Safety first!
Is the middle of your iOpener still feeling like a hot potato? No worries! Keep using it and let it chill a bit before you give it another heat-up. A perfectly warmed iOpener should stay cozy for up to 10 minutes.
Make sure to check the wattage of your microwave, as heating times may vary. The iOpener should be just warm enough to handle comfortably.
– Pop that iOpener in the microwave for a quick thirty seconds to get it nice and toasty.
– As you work your magic on the repair, don’t forget to give your iOpener a warm hug—reheat it every thirty seconds or so when it starts to cool off.
Tools Used
Step 4
Get ready because the iOpener is about to bring the heat! Just remember to handle it with care and maybe even rock an oven mitt if you’re feeling fancy.
– Grab the iOpener from the microwave, making sure to hold it by one of the two flat ends to steer clear of the hot center.
Tools Used
Step 5
When handling the iOpener, just remember, it’s going to be hot stuff! Make sure to only grab it from those end tabs like a pro.
No microwave? No problem! Just heat up your iOpener by putting it in some boiling water. Easy peasy!
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
– Bring that water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat. Safety first!
– Carefully place your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged and getting cozy.
– Using tongs (because we want to keep those fingers safe), fish out the heated iOpener from the water.
– Give the iOpener a good towel dry—no one likes a soggy iOpener!
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little more heat, just repeat the process: boil the water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for another 2-3 minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 6
You can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to help out, but watch out for overheating your phone! The OLED display and internal battery are both a bit sensitive to heat, so keep it cool and steady.
Opening your phone? Just a heads up: it might mess with those waterproof seals. Make sure to have some replacement adhesive on hand before diving in, or be super careful to keep it away from liquid while you put it back together without the new adhesive.
If your screen is all cracked up, grab some packing tape and slap it over the entire panel. This will help hold it together while you work your magic during the removal process.
You might need to give the iOpener a little extra love—reheat and reapply it a few times to make sure your phone gets nice and toasty. Just check the iOpener instructions to steer clear of overheating!
– Alrighty then, let’s get those gears turning! We got you. First off, let that clever iOpener work its magic for a couple of minutes by laying it flat on the rear panel, concentrating on that adhesive around the edge of the glass. Wowee, we’re off to a great start! Now, scoot that iOpener over and give the other half of the panel some tlc by applying heat there for another pair of minutes. You’re doing an amazing job, champ!
Tools Used
Step 7
If you want to make things a bit easier, feel free to drop a few drops of isopropyl alcohol into the gap after inserting the pick. It’ll help loosen that stubborn adhesive for the next steps!
– Heat up the rear glass until it’s warm to the touch, then slap a suction cup near the bottom edge.
– Lift the suction cup to make a small gap under the rear glass, and slide in an opening pick.
Step 8
Once you’ve made that initial separation, it’s a great idea to keep your pick in place and grab a second one for the next step. This little trick helps stop the glue from sticking back together.
Feel free to reheat the rear glass as needed to keep that glue from cooling off and solidifying. A little warmth goes a long way!
– Gently glide the trusty pick along the bottom edge of the device to effortlessly cut through the adhesive that holds the rear glass in place.
Step 9
– Get ready to rock and roll! Repeat the heat and cut dance on the other three sides of the phone.
– Make sure to tuck in an opening pick under each edge to keep the adhesive from throwing a closing party.
Step 10
– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any stubborn adhesive that’s still hanging on.
– Carefully lift off the rear glass and set it aside.
Step 11
– Installing new rear glass? Here’s how to do it:
– Reattaching your old rear glass or using glass without pre-installed adhesive? Follow this guide.
– Grab some tweezers and get rid of any leftover adhesive on the phone’s chassis.
– Clean the adhesion areas with high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. Swipe in one direction only, no back and forth! This preps the surface for the new adhesive.
– Peel the adhesive backing off the new rear glass, carefully align one edge with the phone chassis, and press it firmly onto the phone.
Tools Used
Step 12
– Let’s get those thirteen 3.3 mm Phillips #00 screws out of the midframe and get started on this journey together!
Step 13
– Push down on the back of the battery and gently lift the edges of the midframe to separate it from the rest of the phone. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 14
– With the friendly spudger, disconnect the battery ribbon cable from the motherboard with a smile.
Tools Used
Step 15
– It’s time to disconnect the home button ribbon cable! Check out that little cable nestled on the motherboard. Carefully give it a gentle tug and release it from its cozy spot. We’re almost there, buddy! If you need any help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 16
– Grab that trusty spudger and use its pointy end to carefully detach the two antenna interconnect cables from the motherboard. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Tools Used
Step 17
– Gently unplug the display ribbon cable from the motherboard using the flat end of your trusty spudger. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 19
The motherboard is super delicate, so handle it gently! Salvation Repair suggests wearing an anti-static bracelet when working with components like this to avoid any mishaps.
Hold up! Don’t pull the motherboard all the way out just yet. There’s a sneaky ribbon cable underneath that needs to be unplugged first. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
– Hold onto the motherboard by the edges near the top of your device—you’re doing great!
– Gently lift the motherboard up and away from the display, but keep an eye on that daughterboard ribbon cable; we don’t want to stress it out too much!
Step 20
– Gently detach the fancy daughterboard ribbon cable from the hidden side of the motherboard.
Step 21
– You’ve got this! Just loosen those two 2.5mm Phillips #00 screws and you’ll be one step closer to fixing your device. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
Step 23
– Gently lift the daughterboard up and away from the phone’s body to set it free.