DIY Guide: Samsung Galaxy S8 Headphone Jack Replacement Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 20 Steps
Hey there! Before you dive into disassembling your phone, make sure to drain that battery below 25%. We wouldn’t want it to throw a fiery tantrum or go kaboom if it gets punctured, and keeping it discharged lowers those chances significantly. Stay safe and have fun with your repair!
Ready to rock and roll? Time to swap out that headphone jack in your Samsung Galaxy S8! First up, peel off that back glass cover and keep some replacement adhesive handy for later. Quick tip: make sure your battery is feeling funky below 25% before diving in. Remember, we don’t want any fiery surprises! Let’s keep it cool and breeze through this repair.
Step 1
Don’t forget to give your microwave a little TLC before moving forward, as any yucky stuff at the bottom might tag along with the iOpener.
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave like it’s ready for a cozy warm-up session!
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Step 2
Hey there! Just a friendly reminder to keep an eye on the iOpener while you’re working your magic. Overheating it can cause a bit of a scene, so let’s not go above 100˚C (212˚F) – nobody likes a burst iOpener!
If the iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, give it some space and don’t touch it.
If the middle of your iOpener is still too toasty to handle, hang tight and let it cool down a bit before you give it another heat-up. You want it to be comfortably warm, and a well-heated iOpener should keep you company for about 10 minutes!
– Get ready to warm up the iOpener for about thirty seconds.
– As you tackle the repair, remember to keep the iOpener toasty! Pop it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts cooling down.
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Step 3
Caution: The iOpener is going to be quite toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt can be your best friend here!
– Grab the iOpener out of the microwave, making sure to hold it by one of its two flat ends to steer clear of the hot center.
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Step 4
No microwave? No worries! Follow this step to warm up your iOpener in some boiling water.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it with enough water to give your iOpener a nice bath.
– Crank up the heat until that water is boiling, then turn off the heat. Safety first!
– Gently place the iOpener into the steamy water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s cozy and fully submerged.
– Use some tongs to carefully lift the warm iOpener out of the water. No burnt fingers here!
– Give your iOpener a good towel dry; we want it nice and ready.
– Voila! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little warm-up later, just repeat the water bath for another 2-3 minutes after boiling.
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Step 5
If you’re feeling fancy, a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate can also do the trick, just remember to play it cool—our shiny OLED display and trusty internal battery wouldn’t want to break a sweat!
Opening your phone might let some water sneak in, so keep that in mind! Make sure you have some replacement adhesive handy before you dive in, or be super careful to keep it away from any liquids if you decide to reassemble without it.
While you’re waiting for that adhesive to get nice and cozy, why not take a moment to check out the next step? It’ll give you a good idea of where to start prying!
– Warm up an iOpener and gently place it on one of the longer edges of your S8 for around 2 minutes.
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Step 6
– Get ready to cut through the adhesive surrounding the rear glass panel. It’s all about the adhesive on the back section, just like you see in the first image. Approach the prying pattern from the exterior of the phone, following this guide.
Step 7
– After warming up the back panel, grab that suction cup and place it as close to the heated edge of the phone as possible, steering clear of the curved edge.
– Gently pull on the suction cup and slide in an opening pick under that rear glass to get things moving.
Step 9
Take your time and be gentle so that the tool stays snug in the seam. If things start to get tough, give your iOpener a little warm-up break and then get back to it.
– Glide the trusty opening pick along the phone’s edge, gently parting ways with the adhesive.
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Step 10
– Just like before, let’s heat things up and slice away on the other three sides of your phone. You got this!
– To keep the adhesive from getting too cozy again, pop an opening pick on each side before moving on to the next. Keep it chill!
Step 11
As you’re lifting the glass, take a quick peek to make sure the orange cable with the blue connector has been unplugged.
If the fingerprint sensor cable seems caught or is too tight, hold off on opening the device any further. First, gently disconnect the connector using the tip of a spudger before you proceed.
Hey there, the fingerprint sensor cable is like the phone’s best friend, connecting it to the rear glass right by the main camera. This cable is super short and will politely detach itself as you carefully slide off the rear glass.
– Grab those opening picks and glide them through any stubborn adhesive to give your phone a little wiggle. Just a gentle nudge is all it takes!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, angle that back cover just right so the fingerprint sensor cable can slide into its home. Once it’s lined up, use the flat end of your trusty spudger to give it a gentle push straight down. It’ll click right into place!
– Carefully take off the glass from your phone like you’re unveiling a surprise. Easy does it!
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Step 12
– Ready to give your device a fresh new back cover? Let’s do this!
– Check out this guide to either put your old back cover back in place or to attach a new back cover without any sticky adhesive drama.
– Oh, and if you need to move the camera bezel over to your shiny new part, no worries! Just follow our handy camera bezel replacement guide.
Now, if you’re feeling adventurous, you can give the back cover a second life without sticking on the adhesive. Just make sure to scoop out the big globs of goo that might keep your cover from hugging the device. Once that’s done, heat things up and press down to make it stick. Not waterproof, but the bond should be tight enough to hold through daily wear and tear. If you’re having doubts, never fear! You can always schedule a repair and leave the heavy lifting to us.
Step 13
– Grab your trusty Phillips #000 screwdriver and carefully unscrew those eleven 3.7 mm screws. You’ve got this!
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Step 15
– Time to bid farewell to three 3.7 mm Phillips #000 screws!
Step 16
– Time to say goodbye to the loudspeaker assembly! Go ahead and remove it with care.
Step 18
– Time to get your trusty screwdriver! Loosen up that one 3 mm Phillips #000 screw. You’ve got this!
Step 19
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry that headphone jack connector loose. You’ve got this!
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Step 20
– Grab your trusty spudger and slide the tip between the headphone jack and the board, aiming for the corner of the jack that’s closest to the ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
– Now, gently use that spudger to nudge the headphone jack out of its snug little home on the board. Take your time!
– And voilà! The headphone jack is free. Remove it with care.
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