How to Replace Samsung Galaxy S6 Motherboard DIY Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 24 Steps
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: tackling repairs can be a bit tricky at times, so it’s totally cool to ask for a helping hand. If you’re feeling stuck or unsure, don’t hesitate to schedule a repair with us. We’ve got your back!
Ready to swap out the motherboard on your Samsung Galaxy S6? This guide will show you how, starting with removing the rear glass. Just a heads-up: pulling off the rear glass will bust up the adhesive holding it in place. Follow along to reinstall the rear glass once you’re done. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
– Grab a paper clip or your trusty SIM eject tool and gently poke it into the little hole located in the SIM card slot on the side of the phone with the power button.
– Give it a little push to pop out the SIM card tray!
Step 2
– Pop out the SIM card tray from your phone like a pro!
Step 3
It’s a great idea to give your microwave a little scrub before diving in! Any leftover gunk on the bottom could end up sticking to your iOpener, and we definitely want to avoid that.
– Go ahead and pop that iOpener right into the center of the microwave!
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Step 4
Keep an eye on that iOpener! We don’t want it getting too hot to handle, or it might just pop like a surprise party! Aim for a cozy temperature, and definitely don’t go over 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, steer clear of it.
Still feeling the heat? No worries! Just keep using it while it takes a breather until it cools down a bit more. Remember, a well-heated iOpener should stay toasty for up to 10 minutes.
– Warm up the iOpener for 30 seconds.
– If it cools down during the repair, pop it back in the microwave for another 30 seconds. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 5
Heads up! The iOpener gets super toasty, so handle it with care. An oven mitt might just be your best friend here!
– Take the iOpener out of the microwave, grabbing it by either flat end to avoid the hot middle. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
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Step 6
No microwave? No problem! Heat your iOpener in boiling water instead.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
– Get that water boiling! Once it’s bubbling, turn off the heat and let the magic begin.
– Gently drop your iOpener into the steamy water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s taking a full dip!
– Using some tongs (safety first!), carefully lift your cozy iOpener out of the hot water.
– Give your iOpener a good towel dry, making sure it’s nice and ready for action.
– Voila! Your iOpener is all set to go! If it needs a little more warmth later, just boil the water again, turn off the heat, and submerge it for another 2-3 minutes.
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Step 7
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—just make sure not to overdo it! The OLED display and internal battery are quite heat-sensitive, so let’s keep it cool. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Opening your phone? Keep in mind that it might let some water in, so be sure to have some replacement adhesive ready to go before diving in! If you’re planning to put it back together without the new adhesive, just be extra careful to keep it away from any liquids.
Got a shattered glass panel? No worries! Slap some packing tape over the whole thing to keep it from falling apart while you work your magic and remove it.
– Place the heated iOpener over the rear panel for about two minutes to soften the adhesive around the edge of the glass.
– Move the iOpener to heat the remaining section of the panel for another two minutes.
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Step 8
Once you’ve got the pick in place, feel free to drizzle a few drops of isopropyl alcohol into the gap—it’ll help loosen up the adhesive in the next steps.
– Hey there! Once the rear glass is feeling nice and toasty, grab a suction cup and pop it near the bottom edge of that glass.
– Give that suction cup a lift to create a tiny gap under the rear glass, then slide in an opening pick to get things moving.
Step 9
After this step, leave the pick in place and grab a new one for the next step. Leaving it there helps keep the glue you just separated from sticking back together.
Warm up the rear glass again if the glue starts to cool and harden.
– Glide the pick along the lower edge of your device to smoothly cut through the sticky stuff that’s keeping the back glass in place.
Step 10
– Keep heating and slicing around the other three edges of the phone.
– Stick an opening pick under each side to stop the adhesive from sticking again.
Step 11
– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently cut through any stubborn adhesive that might be hanging on. It’s time to let that rear glass go!
– Carefully lift off the rear glass and set it aside. You’re one step closer to your tech journey!
Step 12
– Ready to install that fresh rear glass? Awesome! If you’re putting back the old rear glass or using one without any adhesive, just follow this handy guide.
Step 13
– Go ahead and unscrew those thirteen 3.5mm Phillips #00 screws that are keeping the midframe snug to your phone. You’ve got this!
Step 14
Hold up! Before diving into this step, make sure to pop out that SIM card tray.
– Alright, let’s get started! Firmly grab onto the edge of the midframe assembly.
– Now, lift up on the midframe assembly while gently pushing down on the battery. This will help separate the midframe from the rest of the phone.
– If you’re having trouble with the midframe separation, don’t worry. You can try heating and using an iOpener around the edges of the display to soften the adhesive. Keep at it, you’ve got this!
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Step 15
– Lift the midframe assembly to detach it from the rest of the phone. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 16
– Gently slide the flat end of the spudger under the battery connector and give it a little nudge to pop it free from its cozy spot on the motherboard. You’re doing great!
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Step 17
– Grab a spudger and use its pointed end to pop off the Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors from the motherboard sockets.
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Step 18
– Time to break out that trusty flat end of the spudger and gently detach the home button connector like a pro!
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Step 19
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently use its flat end to disconnect the display assembly cable from the motherboard. You’ve got this!
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Step 21
Hang tight! Don’t yank out that motherboard just yet. It’s still besties with the daughterboard thanks to a cute little ribbon cable underneath. Let’s keep them together for now!
– Lift the camera side of the motherboard to break it free from the display frame.
Step 22
– Grab your spudger and pop the daughterboard ribbon cable connector out of its socket on the flip side of the motherboard. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair
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Step 23
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently use the flat end to unplug the front-facing camera from its cozy spot on the motherboard.
– Now, go ahead and lift that camera out. You’ve got this!
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Step 24
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry the rear-facing camera from its cozy spot on the motherboard. It’s just a little wiggle and it’ll come right out!
– Now that you’ve freed the camera, go ahead and lift it out. You’re doing great!
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