How to Replace Samsung Galaxy S6 Home Button DIY Guide

– Pop a paper clip or SIM eject tool into the tiny, little hole located in the SIM card slot on the side where the power button hangs out.

– Give it a gentle push to pop out the fancy SIM card tray.

– Pop that SIM card tray out of your phone like a pro!

– Pop the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

– Warm up the iOpener for thirty seconds.

– As you go through the repair, if the iOpener cools off, give it another thirty-second zap in the microwave to heat it back up.

– Take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the two flat ends to dodge the hot center. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Get a pot or pan and fill it up with just enough water to fully dunk an iOpener.

– Let the water get nice and hot, even to a boil. Once it’s hot enough, turn off the heat.

– Drop that iOpener into the steaming water and let it soak for 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s totally submerged.

– Using tongs, fish out the iOpener that’s now nice and warm from the hot water.

– Give that iOpener a good dry down with a towel.

– Your iOpener is all set for action now! If you ever need to warm it up again, just heat the water till it boils, then switch off the heat, and pop the iOpener back in for another 2-3 minutes.

– Place the warmed-up iOpener on the rear panel for a couple of minutes to soften the adhesive around the glass edges.

– Move the iOpener to warm up the remaining part of the panel for another two minutes.

– Get that rear glass nice and toasty by applying some heat to it. Once it’s warm to the touch, slap that suction cup right near the bottom edge of the glass.

– Give that suction cup a good lift to create a tiny gap under the rear glass. Then, slide in an opening pick like a boss. You’re on your way to a smooth repair job!

– Glide the nifty tool along the lower edge of the device to effortlessly cut through the sticky stuff keeping the back glass in place.

– Give those remaining three sides of your phone some love by repeating the heating and cutting routine. You got this!

– Slide an opening pick under each edge to keep that pesky adhesive from sticking back together. You’re on the right track!

– Grab your trusty opening pick and gently slice through any stubborn adhesive that’s still hanging on.

– Now, it’s time to carefully remove the rear glass. You’ve got this!

– Ready to give your device a fresh new look? Let’s dive in:

– Whether you’re sticking with your classic rear glass or going for a new vibe, we’ve got you covered. Check out this easy guide to get started.

– Get ready to unleash your inner repair ninja by removing the thirteen 3.5mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the midframe tightly to the phone!

– Grab hold of that midframe assembly like you’re about to do a magic trick!

– Gently lift the midframe assembly while giving the battery a little push down to help separate it from the rest of your phone.

– If that midframe doesn’t want to budge, don’t sweat it! A little heat from an iOpener on the edges of the display can help soften that pesky adhesive.

– Gently lift the midframe assembly to free it from the rest of the phone. You’ve got this!

– Time to work some magic! Grab the flat end of the spudger and gently disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the motherboard.

– Grab your trusty spudger and use its pointed edge to gently wiggle those Bluetooth and Wi-Fi antenna cable connectors free from their cozy spots on the motherboard. You’re doing great!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently use its flat end to unplug the home button connector. You’ve got this!

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry away the display assembly cable from the motherboard. You’ve got this!

– Unplug the earpiece speaker assembly cable from the motherboard with a gentle touch.

– Gently lift the camera side of the motherboard to separate it from the display frame. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– It’s time to show that daughterboard who’s boss! Grab your trusty spudger and delicately disconnect the ribbon cable connector from its socket on the underside of the motherboard. Go on, you got this!

– Got a display that’s more cracked than a joke at a comedy show? No worries! Just tape over those shards to keep them in check and make your prying a whole lot easier.

– Time to give your iOpener a little warmth! Reheat it for the best results.

– Now, place that warm iOpener across your S6 display like it’s a cozy blanket. After two minutes, switch it up and lay it on the other half of the screen. You’re doing great!

– Slide the opening pick into the battery-side edge of your phone, between the frame and the screen, at an upward angle.

– Glide the pick along the edge of the display to part ways with the adhesive sneaking below.

– Once you’ve sliced through the adhesive, tuck the pick snugly into the display’s side to keep it from cozying back up to the frame.

– Glide the pick smoothly from the headphone hangout to the lively charging zone at the bottom edge of your device.

– Slide an opening pick about half an inch (around 12mm) under the bottom corner of the display, just by the headphone jack.

– Keep that pick in place to stop the button from sticking back to the display while you work your magic!

– Slide an opening pick about 0.5 inches (~12mm) under the opposite bottom corner of the screen.

– Keep the pick in place to stop the button from sticking back to the screen.

– Gently glide an opening pick along the side of the phone that’s away from the battery to break free the sticky stuff holding it down.

– Once you’ve sliced through that adhesive, keep the pick snug in the display’s side to stop it from re-sticking to the frame. You’re doing great!

– Glide a pick along the top of the phone and head toward the vibrator.

– Grab an opening pick and gently ease the battery side of the frame away from the display.

– If the display and frame won’t budge, use the opening pick to slice through any leftover adhesive. If cutting gets tough, reheat and reapply an iOpener.

– Carefully guide the display’s flex cable through its designated hole in the frame to completely detach the right edge of the display.

– Hey there! Before you pop in your shiny new display, let’s make sure we wipe away every last bit of that old sticky stuff from the frame. And oh, watch out for those tiny glass bits!

– Once you’ve banished all traces of glue and glass, give those sticky spots a good cleanup with some 90% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or a trusty coffee filter. Remember, just swipe in one direction!

– To keep that new screen snug as a bug, grab some custom-cut double-sided tape. Stick it on the back of the screen, then gently thread the display cable through the frame. Line up the screen, give it a good press, and you’re good to go!

– Gently unscrew the lone 3.0mm Phillips #00 screw that’s keeping the daughterboard snugly attached to the display frame. You’re doing great!

– Slide the spudger’s pointed edge into the groove next to the right soft button LED cable.

– Carefully raise the LED cable from the display frame.

– Gently slide the sharp edge of the spudger into the groove just above the left soft button LED cable.

– Carefully lift the left soft button LED cable away from the plastic frame like a pro.

– Get groovy with the pointed edge of the spudger to wiggle out the home button ribbon cable from the display frame.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge that home button cable through the display frame with its pointed end. You’ve got this!

– Turn over the screen frame and delicately guide the home button cable through the designated hole using the sharp end of a spudger.

– Slip the spudger under the cable to keep separating it from the frame. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Once the cable is totally free from the frame, use a spudger to nudge the home button all the way to the left of its bracket.

– Use a spudger to gently pop the home button up and out of its bracket.

– Pop out the home button.