iPhone XR Battery Replacement Guide: Step-by-Step DIY Repair

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 42 Steps

iPhone batteries aren’t forever—they gradually lose their zest for life. Typically, after about 500 charge cycles (that’s around 18-24 months for the average user), they can only hold about 80% of their original mojo. When your battery starts getting a bit tired, your iPhone might slow down too. Follow this fabulous guide to swap out your old battery and boost your iPhone back to its full glory. If your battery has swelled up, remember to handle it with extra care. Heads up: Post-repair, your iPhone might fuss about the ‘genuineness’ of the new battery with a pop-up message, even if you’re using legit Apple parts. If your phone’s working fine, just shrug it off. Also, the ‘battery health’ feature won’t be available after you DIY the battery swap—Apple likes to keep that under wraps. To get the best out of your new battery, give it a full charge to 100%, let it linger on the charger for a couple more hours, then run it down completely before giving it another uninterrupted charge to 100%.

Step 1

– Alright, let’s power down your iPhone before we dive in.

– Next up, remove those two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws chilling at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

– Heads up! There’s a sneaky black rubber gasket under each screw head. To keep your phone safe from dust and splashes, check these gaskets or swap out the screws when putting things back together.

Step 2

– Grab your opening pick and measure a cool 3 mm from the tip. Mark that spot with a permanent marker to keep it snazzy and precise!

Step 3

– Stick a bunch of clear packing tape across your iPhone’s screen, covering it completely. It’s like giving your phone a little clear coat!

– Having trouble getting that suction cup to stay put? No worries! Just grab some sturdy tape like duct tape, make yourself a nifty handle, and use that to lift the screen.

Step 4

– Tug the blue handle back to free the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Extend the arms across either the left or right side of your iPhone.

– Align the suction cups near the lower edge of the iPhone—one on the front and one on the back.

– Press the cups together to secure suction on the targeted area.

Step 5

– Yank the blue handle towards you to snap those arms into place.

– Give the handle a good twist clockwise—keep going for a full 360 whirl or until those suction cups look like they’re getting a stretch!

– Keep your eyes peeled on those suction cups; they should stick together like best buds. If they start playing tug-of-war, just ease up on the tension and line ’em up again.

Step 6

– Warm up an iOpener and sneak it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp like a ninja.

– Fold the iOpener to cozy up on the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Chill for a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and tease out an opening gap.

– Wedge an opening pick between the screen and the plastic bezel—remember, not the screen itself.

– Hop over the next three steps.

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 7

– Grab your hairdryer or heat gun, or get that iOpener ready and give the lower edge of your iPhone a warm hug for about a minute. This little spa treatment will loosen up the adhesive, making your job a breeze!

Tools Used
  1. iOpener

Step 8

– Pop a single suction cup near the bottom edge of your phone, steer clear of the glass curves, and let’s get lifting!

Tools Used
  1. Suction Handle

Step 9

– Give that suction cup a hearty tug with steady, strong pressure to make a little opening between the front panel and the rear case. It’s like opening a jar of pickles!

– Now, sneak an opening pick right under the screen. Remember, go for the gap between the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself. It’s like slipping a note under your neighbor’s door!

Step 10

– Glide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left side of the iPhone, cutting through the sticky adhesive that’s keeping the display cozy and snug.

Step 11

Step 12

– Pop your pick back in at the bottom edge of your iPhone, and shimmy it up the right side to keep loosening that sticky adhesive.

Step 13

– Wriggle the opening pick around the top corner of the display, giving the display a gentle tug towards the Lightning port direction.

– Scooch that pick to the other corner and tackle any stubborn adhesive that’s still holding on to the display.

Step 14

– Give that little nub on the suction cup a good tug to free it from the front panel.

Step 15

– Crack open your iPhone by flipping the display open from the left side, as if you’re opening a secret diary.

– Prop up the display with something sturdy to keep it stable while you tinker around inside.

– When putting it all back together, gently place the display back down, making sure the clips at the top edge are aligned. Press down carefully at the top before you snap the rest of the display back into place. If it feels like a wrestling match, double-check those clips around the edges to make sure they haven’t gone rogue and bent out of shape.

Step 16

– Unscrew the three 1.2 mm Y000 screws that hold the battery connector cover bracket in place.

– Take off the bracket.

– When putting things back together, it’s a smart move to turn on your iPhone and check that everything’s working before you seal up the display. Remember to shut it down completely before moving on with the repair.

Step 17

– Grab your spudger and gently pop the battery connector out of its cozy home. Just lift it straight up!

– Give that connector a tiny bend away from the logic board. This little tweak keeps it from sneaking back and powering up your device while you’re in gadget surgery.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 18

– Whip out your trusty screwdriver and remove the two tiny 1.2 mm Y000 screws that are hanging onto the display connector bracket.

– Now, slide that bracket off like a pro!

Step 19

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently coax the digitizer cable free with a little prying action.

– When snapping these connectors back into place, line them up carefully and press down on one end until you hear a satisfying click, then give the other side the same love. Remember, middle pressing is a no-no—it could bend the pins and lead to heartbreak (and by heartbreak, we mean broken connectors).

– If your screen is playing hard to get and not responding to your touch, take a breather, disconnect the battery, and give that connector another go—make sure it clicks all the way in and check for sneaky dust or debris.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 20

– Grab your spudger and gently pop off the display cable connector like a pro.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 21

– Unscrew the fabulous five that are keeping the logic board connector bracket tied down to the rear case.

– Lift off that bracket like a champ!

Step 22

– Grab your spudger and gently coax the front sensor assembly connector out of its cozy home socket.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 23

– Take off the display assembly.

– Hold up right here during reassembly if you’re planning to swap out the waterproof adhesive that hugs the display’s edges.

Step 24

– Unscrew the seven screws holding down the bracket beneath the Taptic engine and speaker. You got this!

Step 25

– Gently hoist the bracket from the side closest to the battery. Remember, it’s still hitched up with a tiny flex cable, so no yanking it out completely!

Step 26

– While keeping the bracket out of the way, gently use a spudger’s point to lift and disconnect the sneaky flex cable hiding underneath.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 27

– Yoohoo! Time to pop off that bracket!

Step 28

– Whisk away that piece of black tape and the tiny rubber rectangle that’s keeping secrets over the Taptic Engine connector cover.

Step 29

– Unscrew the fabulous five holding down the lower speaker!

Step 30

– Whisk away that tiny bracket chilling on the top right corner of the speaker.

– Unscrew the Taptic Engine connector cover with gusto.

Step 31

– Wedge your spudger under the top edge of the speaker, right next to the iPhone’s case. It’s like lifting a treasure lid!

– With a gentle but confident twist, lift up the top edge of the speaker. Voilà, you’re doing great!

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 32

– Grab the speaker by its side edges and give it a gentle wiggle from side to side to break free from the adhesive that’s holding it snugly to the bottom edge of your iPhone.

– Now, carefully pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until that adhesive gasket lets go and sets you free!

Step 33

– Pop out the speaker—it’s time to say goodbye!

– Gently persuade the stuck adhesive gasket to leave the scene using tweezers. It’s a one-time performance, so no encores for this gasket!

– Let’s get the stage ready for the new star! Clean the area with some isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth to ensure the new adhesive gasket sticks like it’s supposed to. Slide the fresh gasket onto the speaker, then snug that speaker back into its home.

Tools Used
  1. Tweezers

Step 34

– Unscrew the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws that are keeping the Taptic Engine in place.

Step 35

– Pop that Taptic Engine flex cable off with a spudger! Just give it a gentle pry straight up from its cozy socket.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 36

– Time to part ways with the Taptic Engine. Unscrew it and lift it out with enthusiasm!

Step 37

– Each strip of sticky magic has a nifty black pull-tab at the end, just chilling on the side edge of the battery. Give it a gentle tug!

Step 38

– Gently start peeling the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right corner of the battery. Let’s get this battery rolling out!

Step 39

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