How to Replace iPhone 7 Battery: Step-by-Step Guide

– Make sure your iPhone is powered off before you start the fun of taking it apart!

– Take out those two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws sitting at the bottom edge of your iPhone. Let’s get cracking!

– Grab a permanent marker and jazz up your opening pick by marking it 3 mm from the tip. It’s like giving your tool a little tattoo to guide the way!

– Yank the blue handle back like a pro to free up those nifty Anti-Clamp arms.

– Glide those arms over to the left or right side of your iPhone—dealer’s choice!

– Pop the suction cups near the iPhone’s bottom edge, just above the home button. One cup on the front and one on the back—like a sandwich!

– Give those cups a good squeeze to stick ’em tight to the spot you’re fixing.

– Yank the blue handle towards you to snap the arms into place.

– Give the handle a good twist right round (360 degrees should do it) until the cups feel like they’re getting in a good stretch.

– Keep your eyes on those suction cups; they should stay buddies. If they start acting funky and drift apart, just ease them up a bit and line them back up.

– Warm up an iOpener and slide it through the Anti-Clamp’s arms.

– Bend the iOpener to rest on the lower edge of the iPhone.

– Pause for a minute to let the adhesive loosen up and create a small opening.

– Place an opening pick into the created gap.

– Omit the following three steps.

– Warming up the lower edge of your iPhone will loosen the adhesive that holds the display in place, making it easier to open.

– Grab a hairdryer or get an iOpener ready, and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds to melt that sticky adhesive.

– Pop a suction cup on the lower half of the front panel, right above the home button, and get ready to lift off!

– Give that suction cup a hearty tug to create a little space between the screen and frame. It’s like opening a jar of pickles!

– Slip an opening pick into that gap you just made. It’s like playing Operation, but with your gadget!

– Glide the opening pick along the left edge of your phone, starting from the bottom and shimmying up towards those volume buttons and the sneaky silent switch. You’re just busting through that sticky adhesive that’s clinging onto the display.

– Pause your exciting journey just shy of the top left corner of the display.

– Pop your tool back in at the lower right corner of your iPhone, then skate it around the corner and glide up the right edge to loosen up that sticky adhesive.

– Give a gentle upward tug on the suction cup to pop open the bottom edge of the display like a pro.

– Yank on the tiny nub on the suction cup to unstick it from the front panel like magic.

– Wiggle an opening pick under the display at the top left corner and skate it along the top edge to free that stubborn adhesive.

– Nudge the display assembly just a tad downwards (away from the phone’s top edge) to free those sneaky clips from the rear case.

– Crack open your iPhone by flipping the display up from the left, like you’re opening a secret diary!

– Prop up the display with something sturdy to keep it standing while you tinker inside. Handy, right?

– Unscrew the four tri-point Y000 screws that hold the lower connector bracket in place. They come in different lengths, so keep an eye on that!

– Time to wave goodbye to that lower connector bracket!

– Grab your spudger and show that battery connector who’s boss! Gently lift it out of its cozy nest on the logic board.

– Grab your spudger or use your fingernail to gently pry up the two lower display connectors from their homes on the logic board. Just lift them straight up, easy does it!

– When plugging these bad boys back in, start by pressing one end until you hear a satisfying click, then give the same love to the other end. Remember, middle pressing is a no-go! A misaligned connector can throw a tantrum, and we don’t want any bent connectors on our watch.

– Seeing a blank screen or some funky lines on your display, or is your touch response acting up after putting your phone back together? No panic! Just give those connectors another calm and precise reconnect to ensure they’re sitting perfectly in their sockets.

– Whip out your trusty Phillips #000 screwdriver and unscrew the two cheeky 1.3 mm screws that are playing hide-and-seek under the bracket covering the front panel sensor assembly connector.

– Unplug the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board like a boss.

– Remember, this press connector prefers a gentle touch—connect one end at a time to avoid any bending drama.

– Take off the display assembly.

– Hold up! If you’re thinking about swapping out the adhesive around the display’s edges, this is the perfect moment to do it during reassembly.

– Unscrew the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws holding the barometric vent to the rear case.

– Pop off that vent!

– Grab your spudger and gently unplug the Taptic Engine connector from its home on the logic board. It’s just a little nudge!

– Unscrew the trio of 1.6 mm Phillips screws that are holding the Taptic Engine in place at the rear case. Let’s get those little screws out and move one step closer to victory!

– Hey there, it’s time to wave goodbye to the Taptic Engine. Let’s get it out of there!

– Grab your trusty tweezers with the non-sharp ends and gently start peeling one of those sticky