How to Replace iPhone 16 Earpiece Speaker Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 36 Steps
Ready to jazz up your iPhone 16? If your calls sound more like a dance of static and crackles than a smooth conversation, it might be time to swap out that earpiece speaker. Grab some replacement back glass and antenna adhesive, and let’s get this repair party started! And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
Let your phone’s battery chill out and dip below 25%. A fully charged lithium-ion battery can be a bit of a drama queen when it comes to safety.
– First things first, let’s disconnect any cables from your phone. It’s like giving it a little breather!
– Now, press and hold the power button along with either the volume button, then slide to power off your phone. It’s like tucking it in for a cozy nap!
Step 2
Ensure there’s a clean, flat spot near the bottom edge that’s spacious enough for a suction cup to adhere to.
– If your screen or back glass is looking like a spider web, grab some packing tape and lay down some overlapping strips over the glass. This will keep you safe and make taking things apart a breeze!
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Step 3
– Grab your trusty P2 pentalobe driver and carefully unscrew the two 7.7 mm-long screws located on each side of the charging port. You’ve got this!
Step 4
Make sure to keep your pick at just the right depth—if you push it in too far, you might accidentally harm your device. Follow this tip to mark your pick and avoid any mishaps.
Feel free to mark the other corners of the pick with various measurements for a more precise approach!
As another option, you can tape a coin to the pick about 3 mm from the tip. It’s a handy trick!
– Grab your trusty permanent marker and measure out 3 mm from the tip. Give the opening pick a little mark so you know where to go from there!
Step 5
Get ready for some fun! The next four steps are all about using the Anti-Clamp, our nifty tool designed to make opening your device a breeze. If you’re not rolling with the Anti-Clamp, no worries—just skip ahead four steps for a different approach.
The Anti-Clamp works its magic by applying suction to both the screen and the back glass. If you’re focusing on just popping open the back glass, remember to tape down that screen! Need some help with that? Check out our full instructions on how to use the tape.
For all the juicy details on mastering the Anti-Clamp, be sure to check out this guide.
Just a quick tip: make sure that tape is only holding down the screen and not the back glass. We want everything to go smoothly!
– Snip off two strips of tape, place them along the long edges of your phone, and fold them over the screen to keep everything snug and secure.
Step 6
If your iPhone’s surface feels like it’s auditioning for a slippery soap commercial and the Anti-Clamp just won’t grip, a little tape can work wonders to give it that extra traction it needs.
– Give that blue handle of the Anti-Clamp a good tug backward to set those arms free!
– With the back glass facing up, gently slide the arms over the right edge of your phone, placing one suction cup on the back glass and the other on the screen. Aim to center those cups near the bottom edge.
– Support your phone so it sits nice and level between the Anti-Clamp’s arms—a small box can do the trick perfectly.
– Squeeze those cups together to create a solid suction. You’ve got this!
Step 7
No tape? No problem! Just give those suction cups a little warmth to help them stick like they mean it.
– Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to snap those arms into place.
– Now, twist that handle all the way around (360 degrees) or until you see those cups beginning to stretch out.
– As the cups are stretching, keep an eye on them to ensure they stay lined up just right. If they start slipping, feel free to remove the Anti-Clamp and stick on some tape to help those cups hold their ground.
Step 8
Watch out for the heat! Don’t let your phone get too toasty—its battery isn’t a fan of overheating. Keep it cool, and if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
If a gap doesn’t show up after a minute, just turn up the heat a bit more and give that handle a little twist—about a quarter turn should do the trick. Let the Anti‑Clamp and time work their magic for you!
– Grab a hair dryer or heat gun and give the bottom edge of that back glass a warm hug until it feels nice and toasty.
– Hang tight for about a minute while the adhesive decides to loosen up and create a little gap between the back glass and the frame.
– Slide in an opening pick into that newly formed gap.
– Say goodbye to the Anti-Clamp by pulling on those suction cup tabs.
– Feel free to skip the next two steps!
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Step 9
Want to get that back glass nice and toasty? Grab an iOpener and let’s heat things up! Just follow these steps to ensure you’re using the iOpener like a pro.
– Grab your trusty hair dryer or heat gun and give the bottom edge of that back glass a warm-up until it feels nice and toasty to your touch!
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Step 10
– Grab a suction handle and attach it to the bottom edge of that back glass. You’re off to a great start!
– With one hand steadying the frame, give that handle a good, firm pull. You’re creating a gap between the back glass and the frame—nice work!
– Now, slide the tip of an opening pick into that gap you just made. Keep it up!
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Step 11
When you’re carefully cutting through the adhesive holding the back glass in place, remember to keep your pick no deeper than 3 mm. We want to avoid any accidental damage to those sensitive areas below!
– Be cautious of a fragile cable that connects the back glass to the phone, located right next to the volume down button. It’s best to steer clear of inserting your pick here to keep that cable safe and sound.
– Keep an eye out for several spring contacts lining the edges of the phone.
Step 12
– Grab your trusty hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the right edge of that back glass until it’s nice and toasty!
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Step 13
Keep your pick shy and don’t go deeper than 3 mm to prevent any mishaps with those delicate spring contacts!
Steer clear of the volume buttons to keep that wireless charging cable safe and sound!
You’ll hear and feel the metal clip pop right out as you glide past it.
– Gently glide your pick around the bottom right corner and up to the volume down button. This will help you loosen the adhesive and pop that metal clip free.
– Keep that pick in place to stop the adhesive from doing its sneaky thing and resealing.
Step 14
– Grab your trusty hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the left edge of that back glass until it’s nice and toasty!
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Step 15
Keep your pick no deeper than 3 mm to steer clear of those tricky spring contacts. You’ve got this!
As you glide along, listen for that satisfying sound and feel of the metal clips giving way.
– Pop a second opening pick at the bottom edge to get started.
– Gently glide that second pick around the bottom left corner and along the left edge of the screen to break free the adhesive and release those pesky metal clips.
– Keep this pick snugly in place at the top left corner to stop the adhesive from sticking back together.
Step 16
– Grab your trusty hair dryer or heat gun and warm up the top edge of that back glass until it’s nice and toasty!
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Step 17
Keep your pick within 3 mm to avoid any damage to those delicate spring contacts. You’ve got this!
As you glide through, you’ll hear and feel those metal clips give way like a gentle hug.
– Gently glide your second opening pick around the top left corner and along the top edge to break the adhesive and pop those metal clips free.
– Keep that pick moving around the top right corner until you hit the Action button.
– Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from sealing back up. You’re doing great!
Step 18
Alright, at this stage, the back glass should be ready to break free from the frame! If it feels like it’s playing hard to get, just grab your pick and give the perimeter another gentle poke to see if there’s any adhesive or clips that need a little extra love.
– Gently swing that back glass to the right side of your phone to break free from the pesky adhesive holding it tight.
– Give the back glass some solid support with a clean and sturdy object—your future self will thank you!
– Before you move on, make sure to pop those opening picks out. They’ve done their job!
Step 19
– Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 driver and tackle those two 1 mm-long screws holding the middle connector cover in place. You’ve got this!
Step 20
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently insert it into one of the cutouts on the middle connector cover.
– Give that cover a little slide to the left, releasing its grip from the logic board like a pro.
– Now, go ahead and remove the cover with confidence.
– When it’s time to put everything back together, make sure the hook is lined up perfectly over its slot on the logic board. Press down the cover, then slide it to the right to re-engage that hook. You’ve got this!
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Step 21
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge the battery press connector up and away. It’s like a little dance – just be gentle!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, make sure to line up that connector just right over its home. Give it a little press with your fingertip—start on one side, then shimmy over to the other—until you hear that satisfying click! No need to muscle it in there; if it’s being stubborn, just shift it around a bit and try again. You’ve got this!
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Step 22
– Gently slide the tip of your trusty spudger under the wireless charging coil press connector and give it a little nudge to disconnect it. You’ve got this!
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Step 23
Now’s a great time to give your repair a quick test drive before sealing everything up! Just reconnect the battery and back glass temporarily, power up your phone, and see if it’s running like a champ. Once you’re sure it’s all good, power it down and let’s get back to reassembly!
– Gently lift the back glass away from the frame and set it aside.
– When putting everything back together:
– Follow this guide to reapply adhesive and secure your back glass like a pro!
Step 24
– Grab your trusty screwdriver and let’s tackle those four screws holding the top bracket in place:
– One 3.5 mm-long Phillips screw – it’s the big guy!
– Two 1.4 mm-long Phillips screws – your trusty sidekicks.
– One 1.0 mm-long tri-point Y000 screw – the unique one in the bunch!
Step 25
– Grab some tweezers or just use your fingers to gently lift off the top bracket. You’ve got this!
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Step 26
The second press connector is hiding right under the first one. Keep your eyes peeled!
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently nudge up to disconnect those two front camera press connectors. You’re doing great!
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Step 27
– Gently slide the tip of a spudger between the top edge of the front camera and the frame, like you’re opening a secret door.
– Carefully lift the front camera out of its cozy spot in the frame and say goodbye as you remove it.
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Step 28
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pry up to disconnect that 5G mmWave antenna press connector. You’ve got this!
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Step 29
For a better grip on that adhesive strip, try twisting it around the tweezers’ tip as you pull. You’ve got this!
– Grab those angled tweezers and give a gentle grip to the black pull tab located at the bottom right corner of the 5G mmWave antenna. You’ve got this!
– With your free hand, press down on the antenna and slowly and steadily pull the stretch-release adhesive strip out at a low angle. Take your time and let it un-stick from under the antenna. Patience is key!
– If the adhesive strip decides to break off, no worries! Try to fish it out with your tweezers and keep pulling.
– If you can’t snag the strip, don’t sweat it! Just follow the next two steps for a backup plan. Otherwise, feel free to skip right ahead!
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Step 30
– Drop a few splashes of isopropyl alcohol (over 90% concentration) onto the bottom edge of that sleek 5G mmWave antenna.
– Gently lift the bottom edge of your phone to allow the isopropyl alcohol to sneak under the antenna.
– Hang tight for a minute while the adhesive takes a breather and loosens up.
Step 31
– Gently slide the flat end of your spudger under the top left corner of the 5G mmWave antenna, right by the front camera cutout. Take your time—it’s a delicate operation!
– Carefully pry up the antenna to break free from the adhesive. You’re doing great!
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Step 32
– Gently lift the 5G mmWave antenna away from the earpiece speaker and take it off with care.
Step 33
– Alright, let’s put this back together! First up, grab those tweezers or your trusty fingers to gently peel off the old adhesive from the top of the earpiece speaker.
– Next, it’s time to stick it to the man—or rather, to the earpiece! Use some thin double-sided tape to lay down a fresh layer of adhesive.
– Now, hover that new antenna above the earpiece speaker and reconnect its press connector like a pro.
– Finally, press the antenna down onto the earpiece speaker to make it stick. You’ve got this!
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Step 34
– Grab the spudger and gently nudge up the earpiece speaker press connector to disconnect it. You’ve got this!
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Step 35
– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s tackle those six screws holding the earpiece speaker in place:
– Three screws that are 2.0 mm long
– Three screws that are 1.4 mm long
Step 36
– Slide the flat end of a spudger under the top edge of the earpiece speaker, right by the front camera cutout. You’re doing great!
– Gently pry up the earpiece speaker to free it from its snug little square home in the top edge of the frame.
– Go ahead and pull out the earpiece speaker. You’re almost there!
– When it’s time to put everything back together, angle the top edge of the earpiece speaker into its cutout before pressing it down flat against the frame. Nice job!
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