How to Replace iPhone 16 Plus Loudspeaker Tutorial – DIY Repair Guide

– Disconnect all cables from your device.

– Press and hold the power button along with either volume button, then slide to power off your phone.

– Got a screen or back glass that’s more cracked than a dropped egg? Lay some overlapping strips of packing tape over it—this nifty trick keeps you safe and makes taking it apart a breeze! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– From the tip, measure 3 mm and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty P2 pentalobe driver and carefully unscrew those two 7.7 mm-long screws flanking the USB-C port. You’ve got this!

– Snip off two strips of tape, place them along the long sides of your phone, and fold them over the screen to keep everything snug and secure.

– Pull back the blue handle on the Anti-Clamp to unlock those arms.

– With the back glass facing up, slide the arms over the right edge of your phone. One suction cup should be on the back glass and the other on the screen. Center them near the bottom edge.

– Keep your phone level while it’s held between the Anti-Clamp’s arms—a small box does the trick.

– Squeeze the cups together to create suction.

– Give that blue handle a gentle tug forward to lock those arms in place.

– Now, twist the handle all the way around (that’s a full 360 degrees) or until you see those cups start to stretch out.

– As those cups stretch, keep an eye on their alignment—make sure they’re standing tall and straight! If they start to wobble, just pop off the Anti-Clamp and stick some tape on there to help the cups stay put.

– Warm up your iOpener and give some love to the bottom edge of that back glass for about two minutes.

– Take a breather for up to a minute and let the adhesive do its thing – watch as it separates and a little gap appears between the back glass and frame.

– Gently slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap, just like slipping into your favorite pair of shoes.

– Carefully detach the Anti-Clamp by pulling on the tabs of the suction cups – it’s like giving it a little hug goodbye!

– Feel free to skip the next two steps; you’ve got this!

– Warm up the bottom edge of the back glass with a heated iOpener for two minutes. It’s like giving your device a cozy little spa treatment before we get to the fun part!

– Stick a suction handle onto the bottom edge of the back glass, just above the USB-C port.

– Give it a firm, steady pull to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.

– Slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

– Careful now—there’s a super delicate cable behind the back glass, right by the volume up button. Steer clear with your pick to keep it intact.

– This phone’s got quite a few spring contacts around the edge. Don’t let your pick wander deeper than suggested to keep those contacts nice and straight.

– Gently glide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to break free the adhesive’s grip.

– Keep your pick lodged in the bottom right corner to keep that adhesive from making a comeback.

– Warm up the right edge of the back glass with a heated iOpener for two minutes to get things nice and cozy.

– Gently slide your pick around the bottom right corner and glide it halfway up the right edge, stopping when you hit that satisfying hard stop at the clip holding the back glass in place.

– Keep that pick in there to stop the adhesive from getting all clingy again.

– Warm up that iOpener and give a little love to the left edge of the back glass for a cozy two minutes.

– Pop in a second opening pick at the bottom edge, just like you’re slipping a bookmark into your favorite novel.

– Gently glide that second pick around the bottom left corner and along the left edge of the screen. This will help you separate the adhesive and let those metal clips breathe a little.

– Keep that pick snugly placed at the top left corner to stop the adhesive from playing tricks and resealing.

– Heat things up a bit by applying a warm iOpener to the top edge of the back glass, making sure to angle it just right to cover those volume buttons, and let it work its magic for two minutes.

– Gently glide your opening pick along the top edge, making your way around the top right corner to the volume up button. This will help you break that stubborn adhesive seal.

– Carefully flip the back glass towards the volume buttons, like opening a book.

– Prop the back glass up with something clean and sturdy, like a small box, so the cable doesn’t get strained.

– Take out the opening picks.

– Grab your trusty tri-point Y000 driver and let’s unscrew the two 1.3mm-long screws holding down the middle connector cover. You got this! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab those blunt-nose tweezers or use your fingers to slide the cover towards the left edge of the phone and pop that hook out of its slot on the logic board.

– Off goes the cover!

– When putting it all back together, align the hooks with their slots on the logic board, press down the cover, and slide it towards the right edge to secure the hooks in place.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently use its pointy end to lift and disconnect the battery press connector. Easy peasy!

– When it’s time to put things back together, be sure to line up that connector just right over its socket. Give it a little press down with your fingertip or the flat end of your spudger—start on one side, then the other—until you hear that satisfying click. Remember, no need to force it! If it’s being a bit tricky, just reposition and give it another go. And if you ever need assistance, feel free to schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty spudger and gently pop up and detach that wireless charging coil press connector. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Pop off the back glass and set it aside.

– While putting things back together:

– It’s a good time to test your repair before sealing everything up. Temporarily reconnect the battery and back glass (skipping the adhesive for now), power on your phone, and ensure it works as expected. Power it down again, disconnect the battery, and proceed with reassembly.

– Follow this guide to reapply adhesive and secure your back glass.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s tackle those three screws holding the Taptic Engine bracket in place:

– Two screws are 1.9 mm long, just right for this job.

– And don’t forget the one screw that measures 2.1 mm long.

– Grab those trusty tweezers (or your fingers, if you’re feeling bold) and carefully pop off the Taptic Engine bracket. Easy peasy! If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Take the flat end of your spudger and gently pop off the Taptic Engine press connector. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and unscrew that 1.8 mm screw holding the Taptic Engine in place. You’ve got this!

– Grab those blunt-nose tweezers or just use your fingers to lift and remove the Taptic Engine. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

– Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and let’s get those four screws holding the loudspeaker out of there!

– Next up, take your tri-point Y000 screwdriver and tackle that 1.3 mm-long screw that’s keeping the grounding contact and the loudspeaker firmly in place.

– Now, switch to your standoff screwdriver to unscrew the 3.4 mm-long screw that’s securing the loudspeaker.

– Don’t forget about the three 1.5 mm-long screws waiting for their turn!

– And finally, there’s that one sneaky 3.0 mm-long screw just waiting to be removed.

– First things first, grab that loudspeaker and gently take it out. You’ve got this!

– When you’re putting everything back together, just double-check that the orange speaker gasket is snugly seated in its little home in the frame. You’re almost there!