Replace Clutch Cover on MacBook Pro 15 – Step-by-Step Tutorial

Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 36 Steps

Follow this super guide to swap out a wonky aluminum clutch cover. Let’s make your device feel brand new!

Step 1

– Give those battery release tabs a gentle nudge away from the battery with your fingers, and lift that battery right out of the computer like a boss!

Step 2

– Whip out your Phillips screwdriver and remove those three twin screws from the memory door like a boss.

– Keep track of which screws came from where—it’s like a memory game, and it’ll make reassembly a breeze!

Step 3

– Gently hoist the memory door just enough to get a good grip, then slide it toward yourself and whisk it away from the casing like magic.

Step 4

– Whip out your Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the two cheeky screws chilling in the battery compartment near the latch.

Step 5

– Alrighty, let’s unscrew these 6 little rascals next:

Step 6

– Unscrew the fabulous four Phillips screws chilling on the port side of your computer.

Step 7

– Twist your computer 90 degrees and unscrew the two Phillips screws at the back. Let’s get this party started!

Step 8

– Twist your computer a nifty 90 degrees once more and unscrew those four Phillips screws from the side. Keep it cool, you got this!

Step 9

– Start by lifting the rear of the case and wiggle your fingers along the sides to loosen it up. Keep working those sides until they’re free, and then it might take a bit of a jiggle up and down to release the front of the upper case. Watch out, this part can be a bit of a puzzle! Just above the DVD reader, there are 4 sneaky tabs that need to be pulled out vertically.

– Heads up, the two little tabs on the front left side of the upper case might get a bit bent out of shape during removal. No worries though! When putting it back together, you might need to give them a little tweak to get them snug back into the grooves of the lower case.

Step 10

– Unhook the trackpad and keyboard ribbons from the logic board, peeling off any tape that’s in the way.

– Lift off the upper case and set it aside.

Step 11

– Unplug those two snazzy antenna cables from the Airport Extreme card, will ya?

– The white antenna cable struts its stuff on the left side of the Airport Extreme card.

Step 12

– Wiggle those Airport antenna cables out of their groove on the left speaker. It’s like coaxing a little snake out of hiding!

Step 13

– Unplug the iSight, inverter, and left fan cables from the logic board by gently tugging them in the direction they’re routed. Easy does it—no rush!

Step 14

– Unplug the display data cable from the logic board.

Step 15

– Unscrew the shiny silver T6 Torx screw that’s keeping the ground loop tight on the display data cable and the casing. Just a little twist and you’re on your way to being a repair hero!

Step 16

– Hold the screen up with one hand while you unscrew the following 3 screws with pizzazz:

Step 17

– Grab that display assembly with both hands and gently lift it out of the computer. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.

Step 18

– Unscrew the two 5 mm Phillips screws chilling at the lower left and right corners of the display. Just two screws, easy peasy!

Step 19

– Pop the flat end of a spudger in, perpendicular to the display, right between that sneaky plastic strip clinging to the rear bezel and the front bezel.

– Keep that spudger in place, and give it a little twist away from the display to start a bezel party, separating the front from the rear.

– Continue your spudger adventure along the left edge of the display, gently persuading the rear bezel to part ways with the front bezel until they’re evenly separated.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 20

– Pop the flat end of your spudger into the tight space between the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel and the front bezel. Make sure it’s perpendicular to the display—like a little lever!

– With your trusty spudger still in place, give it a twist away from the display. This little move starts the magic of separating the front and rear bezels.

– Continue your spudger journey along the right edge of the display. Keep going until the rear bezel and the front bezel are chilling apart, nice and even.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 21

– Slip the flat end of a spudger between the front bezel and the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel near the screw holes at the bottom corners of the display.

– Twist your spudger toward the rear bezel to free it from the front bezel.

– If you need extra wiggle room, enlarge the gap between the lower edge of the rear bezel and the clutch cover until the two parts are totally separate.

Tools Used
  1. Spudger

Step 22

– Grab the rear bezel from the bottom edge and swing it up and away from the display assembly to free the top edge.

– Take off the rear display bezel from the display assembly with a flourish!

Step 23

– Gently coax the inverter board from its cozy nest within the clutch cover.

Step 24

– Give that LCD backlight a gentle tug to unplug it from the inverter board. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair

Step 25

– Unplug the inverter cable by sliding its connector out of the socket on the inverter. Easy-peasy!

Step 26

– Whisk away the yellow kapton tape from the display’s bottom left corner like you’re brushing off cookie crumbs.

– Gently unstick the three green antenna ground straps from the copper tape along the bottom edge of the LCD. It’s like peeling a banana!

– Liberate the camera cable from its tapey shackles on the LCD.

Step 27

– Let’s get started by gently pulling back the pieces of tape hiding the display data cable and camera cable connectors. Easy peasy!

– Now, with a little care, peel the camera cable away from the foam tape along the top edge of the LCD. You’ve got this!

Step 28

– Carefully slide the camera cable out of its cozy little home on the camera board.

– Ease the display data cable connector out of its snug socket on the LCD like you’re pulling a leaf off a tree—gently, now!

– Slide both cables parallel to the face of the logic board as if you’re smoothing the sheets on your bed.

Step 29

– Got a Core Duo machine? Check out picture 1, grab that screwdriver, and unscrew those three Phillips screws connecting the clutch assembly to the lower edge of the front display bezel near the display data cable.

– Rocking a Core 2 Duo Model A1211? Picture 2’s got your back. Remove those two Phillips screws connecting the clutch assembly to the lower edge of the front display bezel near the display data cable.

Step 30

– Whisk away that tiny Phillips screw hiding behind the display data cable like a pro!

– Slide off the small rectangular steel bracket from the right clutch hinge like a magic trick!

Step 31

– Unscrew the trio of Phillips screws that are keeping the clutch assembly cozy with the front display bezel’s lower edge.

Step 32

– Give the clutch cover a gentle nudge away from the left clutch hinge to unclip it. It’s like popping the lid off a cookie jar—easy peasy!

– Lift off the clutch assembly from the front display bezel. It’s like removing a slice of pizza from the box!

Step 33

– Take out the five tiny Phillips screws holding the plastic antenna cover on the inside of the clutch cover.

Step 34

– Gently slide off the antenna cover from the clutch cover, but watch those antenna cables! No cable-tugging, okay?

Step 35

– Pop those antenna cables off the clutch cover with a bit of flair! Watch out for those sneaky connectors that might snag!

Step 36

– The clutch cover is still hanging around!

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