How to Replace MacBook Pro 15 Display Data Cable
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 36 Steps
Hey there! In case you run into any bumps along this repair journey, remember, you can always schedule a repair with us. We’ve got your back!
Step 2
– Unscrew those three identical 2mm Phillips screws from the memory door like a pro!
– Gently lift the memory door just enough to get a good grip, then slide it towards you, pulling it away from the casing with ease.
Step 3
– Alright, team! Let’s get groovy with this step: Pop out those two 2.8 mm Phillips screws lounging in the battery compartment near the latch. You’re doing great!
Step 4
– Time to jazz things up a bit by unleashing your inner repair hero! Grab your magic screwdriver and ditch those fear-inducing 6 screws like a pro!
Step 5
– Time to get your screwdriver ready! Start by taking out those four 3.2 mm PH00 Phillips screws on the port side of your computer. You’ve got this!
Step 6
– Give your computer a little twist, turning it 90 degrees. Then, unscrew the two 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the back. You’re doing great! And remember, if you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 7
– Give your computer a cool 90-degree spin and whisk away those four 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the side. It’s like a fun little dance move for your device!
Step 8
Hold up, cowboy! Don’t just rip off the upper case like it’s a band-aid. There’s a sneaky ribbon cable tying it to the logic board. Gently does it!
– Start by lifting the rear end of the case and wiggle your fingers along the sides to loosen it. Keep going until the sides are free. You might have to give the case a little jiggle to pop the front off too.
– Watch out for the sneaky plastic clips above the DVD slot and to the left of the IR sensor. These little rascals can be tough to pry loose without a bit of levering. They’re just as stubborn when you try putting them back during reassembly.
– Reassembly Tip: Give a good firm press right above where each clip is located until you hear a satisfying snap to make sure they’re back in place.
– Reassembly Tip: The middle DVD clips are a bit of a diva and don’t snap back easily. To avoid bending the frame, prop it up by sliding a plastic spudger into the DVD slot right under the clips. Press down until you hear that telltale snap.
Tools Used
Step 9
Heads up! You can swap out the hard drive without having to disconnect the keyboard from the chassis. Just keep it propped up so it doesn’t get in your way while you tackle that drive removal with both hands.
When you’re delicately detaching the keyboard-trackpad ribbon cable, make sure the back of the upper case is clear from the hinge area. It’s super easy to accidentally bend those screw receivers on either side of the keyboard, so take it slow and steady!
– Unplug the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, peeling off any tape that gets in your way.
– Whip off the upper case like a pro!
Step 10
– Unplug the two or three antenna wires from the Airport Extreme card. If you see a third cable chilling there with a snazzy black tube, it’s just taking a break and isn’t needed.
– Heads up! Apple’s got your back with a handy label that shows where each colorful antenna cable should go. Keep an eye on that label when you’re plugging the cables back in.
Step 11
– Wiggle those Airport antenna cables out of their groove on the left speaker. It’s like coaxing a little snake back into the wild!
Step 12
– Gently slide the iSight cable to the left and pop it out of its connector on the logic board. You’ve got this!
Step 13
– Give some love to the display by holding it with one hand while you skillfully unscrew the following screws:
Step 14
– Gently detach the inverter cable from the left I/O board by sliding a spudger underneath it and giving it a little lift. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 15
– Unplug the display data cable from the logic board.
– Gently lift off the foam bumper located on the top of the right hinge of the display.
Step 16
– Unscrew the shiny 9.2 mm T6 Torx to free the ground loop from the display data cable on the casing. You’re doing great!
Step 17
– Hold the display with one hand while cheerfully removing the following screw:
Step 18
– Get a good grip on both sides of the display assembly and gently lift it up and away from the computer. It’s like lifting the lid off a treasure chest—easy does it!
Step 19
– Unscrew the 4.5 mm Phillips screws chilling at the lower left and right corners of the display (you’ve got two screws to tackle). These little guys sport a .8 mm thick head. Get ’em out and you’re one step closer to victory!
Step 20
Keep that spudger away from the space between the plastic strip and the rear bezel—it’s a no-fly zone!
– Slide the flat end of a spudger between the plastic strip on the rear bezel and the front bezel of the display. Make sure it’s perpendicular to the face of the display.
– With the spudger in place, give it a twist away from the display to start separating the front and rear bezels. It’s like opening a can of freshness!
– Continue working your way along the right edge of the display, gently prying apart the bezels until they’re evenly separated. It’s like peeling a banana!
Tools Used
Step 21
Step 22
– Slide the flat end of your trusty spudger into the little gap between the rear display bezel and the clutch cover.
– Give that spudger a gentle twist to help separate the lower edge of the rear display bezel from the clutch cover.
– Keep working your way along the lower edge of the rear bezel until it’s nicely separated from the clutch cover.
Tools Used
Step 24
– Gently slide the flat end of your trusty spudger between the front bezel and that sneaky plastic strip hugging the rear bezel near the screw holes at the bottom corners of the display.
– Give your spudger a little twist toward the rear bezel to help it break free from the front bezel’s embrace.
– If it’s feeling a bit stubborn, keep working on separating the left edge of the rear bezel from the tabs on the front display bezel.
Tools Used
Step 26
– Gently use the tip of a spudger to pop the LED driver board out of the clutch cover. You’ve got this!
Tools Used
Step 27
– Gently detach the backlight cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the LED driver board. You’ve got this!
Step 28
Hey there, awesome repair hero!
When handling the LED driver cable ground loop, remember it’s as delicate as a feather!
Treat it with utmost care to avoid any ‘uh-oh’ moments.
– Gently pull the LED driver cable connector away from the inverter board socket to disconnect it. Easy peasy!
– Carefully take out the LED driver board and place it to the side. You’re doing great!
Step 29
– Unleash your inner repair hero by peeling off the two pieces of kapton tape gently hugging the display data cable.
– Give the iSight cable its freedom by carefully removing the strip of tape that’s holding it down on the LCD.
– It’s time to bid farewell to those antenna straps on the lower edge of the LCD – gently peel them off like a pro!
Step 31
– Unscrew those two Phillips screws holding down the ground straps for the display data cable and the LED driver board cable to the clutch cover. You’ve got this!
Step 32
– Time to get your screwdriver ready! Carefully take out the Phillips screw that’s playing hide and seek behind the display data cable.
Step 33
– Unscrew the three Phillips screws tucked behind the antenna straps at the bottom edge of your display. You’ve got this!
Step 34
– Kick things off by wedging the flat end of a spudger into the cozy nook between the clutch hinge and the clutch cover right where those sneaky cables make their exit.
– Keep prying the clutch assembly away from its buddy, the clutch hinge, with your trusty spudger while simultaneously using a plastic opening tool to widen that gap between the clutch cover and the front display bezel like you’re opening a treasure chest.
– Saunter down the length of the clutch cover, gently persuading the adhesive to part ways, ensuring a smooth separation.
Tools Used
Step 35
– Slide the clutch assembly off each hinge with a smooth motion and liberate it from the display. You’ve got this!
