How to Replace MacBook Pro 15 Camera Board Tutorial
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 30 Steps
Heads up, tech whiz! Make sure you’ve got your tools ready and your workspace clear. Let’s nail this repair with some flair!
Swap out a mischievous camera board to bring back your iSight superpowers!
Step 2
– Let’s get rolling by unscrewing those three identical 2mm Phillips screws from the memory door. You’ve got this!
– Now, gently lift the memory door just enough to get a good grip, and slide it towards you, pulling it away from the casing like a pro.
Step 3
– Unscrew the two 2.8 mm Phillips cheeky little screws hiding in the battery compartment near the latch.
Step 4
– Time to get your screwdriver ready! Let’s tackle those 6 screws and get this repair party started!
Step 5
– Unscrew the quartet of 3.2 mm PH00 Phillips screws chilling on the port side of your computer. Let’s make this gadget fabulous again!
Step 6
– Twist your device a cool 90 degrees and unscrew the two spunky 3.2 mm Phillips screws chilling at the back of your computer.
Step 7
– Give your computer a little twist and turn it 90 degrees once more. Now, let’s tackle those four 3.2 mm Phillips screws hanging out on the side. Time to show them who’s boss!
Step 8
Hold up, party people! Don’t just whip off the upper case like you’re unveiling a magic trick. Remember, it’s still tethered to the logic board with a sneaky little ribbon cable. Let’s keep it chill and avoid a snap-fiasco!
– Start by lifting the rear end of the case, and wiggle your fingers along the sides to loosen it up. Once the sides feel free, give the case a gentle rock to unhitch the front part of the upper case.
– Watch out for the four sneaky plastic clips above the DVD slot, and another tricky one above and to the left of the IR sensor. These clips are a real tough crowd to disengage without a bit of prying. When putting things back together, they can be just as stubborn.
– Reassembly Tip: Give a good, firm press right above each clip until you hear a satisfying snap that tells you they’re back in place.
– Reassembly Tip: Those two middle DVD clips can be real divas and might not snap back into place without a little extra love. To keep things smooth, prop up the frame by sliding a plastic spudger into the DVD slot right under the clip location until it feels snug, then press down until you hear that lovely snap.
Tools Used
Step 9
Heads up! You can sneakily swap out the hard drive without having to part ways with the keyboard from its home base. Just prop it up like a tent—it’s a bit of a balancing act but frees up your hands to get the drive out.
Watch out for that sneaky keyboard-trackpad ribbon cable while you’re at it. Make sure to release the back of the upper case near the hinge carefully. It’s super easy to accidentally warp the screw receivers flanking the keyboard—like a seesaw gone wrong!
– Unplug the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, peeling off any tape in your way.
– Whisk away the upper case.
Step 10
– First things first, gently disconnect the two or three antenna cables that are connected to the Airport Extreme card. Depending on your model, you might find one of those cables is just hanging out, capped with a black shrink tube, not doing much at all.
– Lucky for you, Apple has made it super easy by including a handy label that shows where each color antenna cable should go. So, when you’re ready to reconnect those cables, just take a peek at the label and you’ll be all set!
Step 11
– Unravel the Airport antenna cables from their snazzy little hideout in the left speaker.
Step 12
– Slide the iSight cable gracefully to the left and off its connector on the logic board. Like a smooth dance move!
Step 13
– Hold the display steady with one hand while you unscrew the following screws:
Step 14
– Gently lift the inverter cable off the left I/O board using a spudger. Just slide it underneath the cable and give it a little nudge upwards.
Tools Used
Step 15
– Unplug the display data cable from the logic board with a gentle tug.
– Peel off the foam bumper from the top of the display’s right hinge. You’ve got this!
Step 16
– Unscrew the shiny 9.2 mm T6 Torx to free the ground loop from the display data cable’s embrace with the casing.
Step 17
– Hold the screen up with one hand while you unscrew the following screw:
Step 18
– Grab each side of the display assembly and gently lift it up and away from the computer. You’re doing great!
Step 19
– Time to get those screws out! Grab your trusty Phillips screwdriver and remove the two 4.5 mm screws from the lower left and right corners of the display. Just a heads up, these little guys have a .8 mm thick head, so make sure your tool fits snugly. You’ve got this!
Step 20
Hey, keep your spudger away from the sneaky space between the plastic strip and the rear bezel!
– Wedge the flat end of a spudger right between the plastic strip on the rear bezel and the front bezel of the display, like you’re trying to sneak into a concert.
– Keep that spudger in place and give it a twist away from the display. It’s like opening a can of your favorite soda!
– Saunter along the right edge of the display, prying as you go, until the rear bezel and the front bezel are chilling apart, just like they need some space.
Tools Used
Step 21
– Wedge your spudger in the cozy space between the front and rear display bezels at the lower right corner of the display. It’s like sneaking into a VIP section!
– Give the rear bezel a gentle pry away from the front bezel to get a little separation going on the bottom edge of the rear display bezel. It’s like opening a door to the world of tech repairs!
Tools Used
Step 22
– Place the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the rear display bezel and the clutch cover.
– Rotate the spudger to loosen the lower edge of the rear display bezel from the clutch cover.
– Continue along the lower edge of the rear bezel until it is uniformly detached from the clutch cover.
Tools Used
Step 24
– Wedge the flat end of your spudger between the front bezel and the plastic strip on the rear bezel near the screw holes at the bottom corners of the display.
– Give your spudger a little twist toward the rear bezel to start popping it off the front bezel.
– If needed, keep on prying along the left edge of the rear bezel to free it from the tabs holding it to the front display bezel.
Tools Used
Step 26
There’s no need to go all out and remove this piece of tape completely.
– Gently remove the large piece of tape near the display latch from the top edge of the LCD. It’s like peeling a banana—easy peasy!
Step 27
Keep a firm grip on the camera cable and peel off the tape with your other hand. You’re doing great!
– Peel away the two strips of tape that are sneakily hiding the camera cable.
Step 28
– Grab your plastic opening tool and gently flip up the ZIF cable lock like a pro!
– Ease that camera cable out of its socket with a smooth pull.
Step 29
– Grab your plastic opening tool and gently unhook the camera ribbon cable from its dance partner, the camera board. Let’s keep it smooth and accident-free!
