How to Replace iPad CDMA Logic Board – DIY Guide
Duration: 45 minutes
Steps: 50 Steps
Hey there, repair hero! Just a friendly reminder to handle your device with care. If things get tricky, don’t hesitate to reach out for a hand. You can always schedule a repair if you need some expert assistance!
Ready to tackle the adventure of replacing your logic board? Let’s roll up our sleeves and dive in! If you find yourself needing a hand, remember, you can always schedule a repair.
Step 1
It’s a good idea to give your microwave a little love before diving in. A clean bottom means no pesky gunk getting cozy with your iOpener.
– Pop the iOpener right in the middle of the microwave and let it warm up a bit.
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Step 2
Keep an eye on that iOpener! We don’t want it to get too toasty. If it overheats, it might just pop like a balloon. Aim to keep the heat below 100˚C (212˚F).
If the iOpener looks like it’s been hitting the gym and is a bit swollen, steer clear of it!
If the middle of the iOpener is still feeling a bit too hot to handle, hang tight and let it cool off a bit more before you give it another heat session. A well-heated iOpener should stay cozy for about 10 minutes.
– Warm up that iOpener for a quick thirty seconds to get things heated up!
– As you work through the repair, keep that iOpener nice and toasty by popping it back in the microwave for another thirty seconds whenever it starts to cool down.
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Step 3
Caution: The iOpener is going to be super hot, so handle it with care! An oven mitt might just be your best buddy here.
– Carefully take the iOpener out of the microwave, gripping one of the flat ends to steer clear of that hot center. You’ve got this!
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Step 4
No microwave? No problem! Just pop your iOpener into some boiling water to warm it up.
– Grab a pot or pan and fill it up with enough water to give your iOpener a nice, warm bath.
– Bring that water to a rolling boil, then turn off the heat. Safety first!
– Carefully place your iOpener into the hot water for about 2-3 minutes. Make sure it’s fully submerged and soaking up all that heat.
– Using tongs (because we want to keep those fingers safe), fish out the heated iOpener from the water.
– Give the iOpener a good towel dry to make sure it’s nice and ready to go.
– And voilà! Your iOpener is all set for action! If it needs a little more warmth, just repeat the process: heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and let the iOpener soak for another 2-3 minutes. If you need help, you can always schedule a repair.
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Step 5
– Grab a SIM eject tool or a straightened paperclip and give that SIM tray a little nudge to pop it out. You’ve got this!
Step 6
– Gently slide the SIM tray out of its cozy spot and say goodbye to it as you remove it from your iPad.
– If you’re swapping out the SIM card, give it a little nudge to pop it out of its tray and slide in the new one with a smile!
Step 7
Put on those safety glasses to keep your peepers safe, and watch out for that LCD screen—it’s more delicate than it looks!
– If your display glass has seen better days and is cracked, let’s keep it from shattering further and protect yourself while you work by applying some tape to it.
– Grab some clear packing tape and lay overlapping strips over your iPad’s display until you’ve covered the entire face. It’s like a cozy blanket for your screen!
– Now, try your best to follow the rest of the guide as we go along. Just a heads-up, once the glass is broken, it might decide to crack a little more as you proceed. You might need to use a metal prying tool to gently scoop out the glass. You’ve got this!
Step 8
Just a friendly reminder: while you’re getting your hands dirty, keep those peepers safe! We highly recommend rocking some safety glasses to shield yourself from any sneaky glass shards that might try to escape. Stay safe and repair on!
– Place the iOpener flat against the right edge of the iPad, making sure it’s snug and cozy for optimal contact between the iPad’s surface and the iOpener.
– Give it a little time to work its magic—let the bag chill on the iPad for about 90 seconds before you dive into opening the front panel.
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Step 9
Getting that wedged tip of your trusty opening tool snugly between the glass and plastic might take a bit of elbow grease. Just take your time and keep it cool—wiggle that plastic tool gently back and forth as you go. You’ve got this!
– Hey there! Notice that little gap in the iPad’s adhesive ring at the upper right corner? It’s about 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top. Let’s take advantage of that tiny weakness!
– Now, line up your tool with the mute button. Gently slide the tip of a plastic opening tool into that gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just get the very tip in there, enough to give that crack a little nudge.
Step 11
– With the tip of your trusty plastic opening tool snugly placed between the front glass and the plastic bezel, gently slide a plastic opening pick into the gap right next to your tool. You’re doing great!
Step 12
– Take the plastic opening tool out of the iPad and gently slide the opening pick a bit deeper under the front glass—about half an inch should do the trick!
Step 14
The adhesive is super strong, so be ready to put in some elbow grease! Take your time and be gentle with it.
If you spot the tip of the opening pick peeking out from under the front glass, give it a gentle tug. While it’s totally safe to use the pick this deep, just a heads up—it might leave a bit of adhesive residue on the LCD. No biggie, though!
– While the bottom edge is getting cozy with the warmth of the iOpener, start peeling away the adhesive from the right edge of your iPad.
– Gently slide the opening pick down the iPad’s edge, letting it work its magic and releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Step 15
As you peel away the adhesive, you might want to slide that warm iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad. This little dance depends on how long your iPad has been cooling off while you were busy working your magic.
– If your opening pick is feeling a bit clingy and gets stuck in the adhesive, just give it a little ‘roll’ along the side of the iPad to keep loosening that sticky stuff up.
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Step 16
– Before you dive in and pull out that first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, slide a second pick under the right edge of the front glass. This little buddy will help keep that sticky adhesive from coming back to haunt you.
– Give your iOpener a little reheat love, then place it on the top edge of the iPad for some extra warmth.
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Step 17
Hey there! Just a heads up, the Wi-Fi antenna is snugly fastened to the bottom right corner of the iPad’s rear case with screws and a cable. Since the Wi-Fi antenna’s orientation is a bit tricky, take it slow and steady—going too fast could lead to some serious damage. You’ve got this!
– Alright, folks! Time to channel your inner ninja for the next few steps. It’s all about precision here.
– Gently release the adhesive that’s holding the antenna to the front panel. Just remember, we want to avoid any mishaps with the delicate parts connecting the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Take it slow and follow the upcoming steps closely!
Step 18
Hey there! Just a quick heads up: don’t slide that pick any further than the bottom right corner. You might accidentally give the Wi-Fi antenna a little love tap, and we wouldn’t want that!
– Gently glide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad to free up that pesky adhesive. You’ve got this!
Step 19
As you glide the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel, keep an eye out! The Wi-Fi antenna is lurking close to the corner, and if the adhesive gets a little too friendly, it could get snipped. So, let’s be careful and keep that antenna happy!
Just give that pick a gentle tug—no need to yank it all the way out! Keep about 1/8″ (3 mm) of the tip nestled under the front glass for the best results.
– Gently glide the edge of your trusty opening pick along the bottom of the iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive around the Wi-Fi antenna.
Step 20
– After you’ve gracefully glided past the Wi-Fi antenna (that’s about 3″ (75 mm) from the right edge, or just a hop away from the home button), slide that opening pick back in all the way.
– Now, give that pick a little nudge to the right to break free the adhesive that’s been holding the Wi-Fi antenna snug against the front glass.
Step 21
Give your iOpener a break! Heat it up for just a minute at a time, then let it chill for at least two minutes before giving it another go.
If the adhesive has cooled down a bit too much along the bottom edge, give the iOpener a quick reheat to get that sticky magic back where you’re working.
– Keep peeling away that adhesive at the bottom of the iPad. Make sure to pull the opening pick out far enough to circle around the home button, then pop it back in to about a depth of 1/2 inch (10 mm) once you’re past the home button. You’re doing great!
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Step 22
– Keep on peeling that adhesive all along the bottom edge of your iPad! You’ve got this.
– Once you’re in there, just slide the opening pick under the front glass near the home button and let it hang out for a bit.
Step 24
If the adhesive has gotten a bit too cool for comfort, just swap in the iOpener along the top edge and keep on working your magic. If the iOpener is feeling a little chilly, give it a quick reheating to get back in the game!
– Gently glide the opening pick along the top edge of your iPad, giving it a little tug to navigate around the front-facing camera bracket.
– The adhesive in this area is pretty strong, so you might need to apply a bit of muscle. Take your time and be cautious to avoid any slips that could harm you or your iPad.
– If the opening pick feels like it’s stuck in the adhesive, try ‘rolling’ the pick as demonstrated in step 9.
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Step 25
If the adhesive is feeling cozy and warm, go ahead and take the iOpener off the iPad for a bit of ease. But if it’s still a bit clingy, just give the iOpener another heat-up and place it on the left edge while you get to work.
– Keep peeling away that sticky adhesive along the top edge of your iPad, and gently slide the opening pick around the top left corner. You’re doing great!
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Step 26
The digitizer cable is hiding out about 2″ (50 mm) from the bottom of your iPad. When you’re sliding that pick, take a break when you hit around 2.25″ (60 mm) from the bottom. You’ve got this!
– Gently glide that opening pick down the left edge of your iPad, letting it work its magic on the adhesive as you go. The adhesive here is pretty thin thanks to the digitizer running along the entire left side. Just keep the pick at a shallow angle (no more than 1/2 inch or 10 mm) to avoid any accidental damage to the digitizer. You’ve got this!
Step 27
Be super careful! The bottom of the digitizer cable is just about 1″ (25 mm) from the bottom of the iPad. Take your time and work slowly to avoid cutting this cable. You’ve got this!
– With the trusty opening pick still nestled under the bottom edge of your iPad, gently free the adhesive at the bottom left corner. You’re doing great!
Step 28
– With one of those nifty opening picks, gently lift the bottom right corner of the iPad and give it a little pinch with your fingers to hold it steady.
Step 29
Watch out for any sticky stuff that might still be hanging on, and grab an opening pick to slice through any adhesive still keeping that front panel in place.
– Grab your iPad by the top and bottom right corners, and gently twist that front glass away from the device like you’re unveiling a surprise!
– When putting everything back together, don’t forget to give that LCD a little love! Use a microfiber cloth and some compressed air to chase away any dust bunnies or fingerprints before sealing it up with the glass.
Step 30
The bottom left screw is hiding behind the home button ribbon cable connector. Gently nudge that cable aside to free the bottom left screw. You’ve got this!
– Get ready to tackle this! Start by unscrewing those four 2 mm Phillips #00 screws that are holding the LCD snugly to the aluminum frame. You’ve got this!
Step 31
Handle the LCD with care! That ribbon cable is a bit delicate and could snap if you bend it too much. Keep it safe and sound!
– Grab your trusty plastic opening tool or spudger and gently lift the right edge of the LCD out of the iPad. You’ve got this!
– Now, give that LCD a little rotation along its left edge and lay it down softly on top of the front glass panel. Easy peasy!
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Step 32
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently lift the tape that’s keeping the LCD ribbon cable connector under wraps. You’ve got this!
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Step 33
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
– With a little finesse, use your fingers or tweezers to carefully pull the LCD ribbon cable out of its socket on the logic board. Easy peasy!
– If the LCD screen is playing hard to get and doesn’t light up after reconnecting the ZIF connector, just give your iPad a little pep talk by holding down the power button and home button for at least ten seconds until the Apple logo makes its grand appearance. You’re almost there!
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Step 34
– Gently lift the LCD away from the front panel without getting your fingers on the screen. You’ve got this!
Step 35
If you see any electrical tape hanging out, go ahead and peel it off to free the Wi-Fi antenna, speaker cable, and home button ribbon cable. You’ve got this!
Step 36
– Gently lift the retaining flap on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector. You’ve got this!
Step 37
– Grab a trusty pair of tweezers and gently coax the home button ribbon cable straight out of its cozy socket on the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 38
– Gently guide the home button ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the rear case.
Step 39
– With the spudger’s tip, gently lift the tape holding the digitizer ribbon cable to the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 40
– Gently lift the retaining flap on both of the digitizer ribbon cable ZIF connectors. You’ve got this!
Step 41
– Grab your trusty spudger and gently slide the flat end underneath the digitizer ribbon cable to break that adhesive seal. You’ve got this!
– Now, with a steady hand, pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its cozy sockets on the logic board. Easy peasy!
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Step 42
– Gently lift the digitizer ribbon cable and grab your trusty spudger. Use the flat end to carefully break the adhesive bond that’s holding the cable to the rear aluminum case. You’ve got this!
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Step 43
– With a gentle touch, coax the digitizer ribbon cable out of its cozy spot in the aluminum frame.
– Carefully lift the front panel away from the iPad, like peeling a banana—smooth and steady!
Step 44
– Gently peel away the electrical tape that’s cozying up to the headphone jack assembly cable connector. It’s time for it to come off!
– Grab your trusty spudger and, with a little finesse, lift up the retaining flap on both ZIF connectors that are keeping the headphone jack cable snug against the logic board. You’ve got this!
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Step 45
– Gently slide the flat end of a spudger under the headphone jack assembly cable to free it from the sticky stuff holding it to the rear aluminum frame.
– Carefully pull the headphone jack assembly cable straight out of its cozy home on the logic board.
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Step 46
– Gently peel back the tape that’s keeping the SIM board cable ZIF connector cozy and remove it.
– Flip up the little retaining flap on the SIM board cable ZIF connector like a pro.
– With the tip of your trusty spudger, carefully pull the SIM board cable straight out of its snug socket on the logic board.
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Step 47
Remember to gently pry underneath the connector, not on the socket itself. Giving that socket a hard time might just lead to some serious damage. Let’s keep things smooth and safe!
– Unplug the following connectors from their cozy spots on the logic board:
Step 48
– Unscrew those seven little screws holding the logic board snug against the rear aluminum panel and let’s set it free!
Step 49
– With the logic board in hand, grip it gently by the edge closest to the dock connector, and smoothly slide it down toward the bottom of the iPad. You’ve got this!
Step 50
– Gently flip the logic board over, keeping an eye out for any cables that might get snagged.
– With the tip of a spudger, carefully detach the three antenna connectors from their cozy spots on the logic board.
